By: NEHARIKA MANJANI

Are pastels still popular? What’s the low-down on the lehenga? To help brush up on your summer wedding vocabulary, we’ve curated an A-Z guide we recommend you keep handy.

Image: Rohan Hande

Artisan

A handcrafted weave will always be a building block in any bride-to-be’s wardrobe. “The zari used in my classic range of saris has a very high percentage of real silver and a small percentage of gold. The use of precious metal not only lends a sheen to the zari, it also increases its heirloom value,” says Kshitij Jalori.

Advaya for House of Angadi is another name to look out for. Not only was Deepika Padukone spotted in their saris at her wedding and reception in Bengaluru, she also stocked up on them for her trousseau.

Image: Getty.

Bookmark Ekaya for silk saris in the richest jewel tones and the softest pastels.

Image: Ekaya

Roliana’s saris double up as collectible canvases, each one individually hand-painted by their skilled artisans.

Image: Roliana

Blouses

Tarun Tahiliani curates a cheat sheet for the bridal basic. First, there’s the cut. “The younger generation veers towards fuss-free designs. Think bustiers, peplum blouses and crisp white shirts,” the designer says. Then there’s craft. “In our latest collection, 3D detailing has been paired with techniques like chiffon couching, laser-cut appliqué, ari, chikankari and mukaish,” he adds. Third is colour. “Refreshing tones like soft neutrals, pastel pink, aqua, and mint are on the shade card,” says Tahiliani.

Image: Tarun Tahiliani

Chikankari

Chikankari is the modus operandi of the elegant bride—Deepika Padukone and Sonam Kapoor Ahuja will testify. “I’ve coupled chikankari with colours in line with its lightness, such as ecru and Arctic blue. We’ve further enhanced it with pearls and bugle-bead embroidery and taken it to unconventional silhouettes like sculpted blouses,” says Gaurav Gupta.

Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue

Image: James Cochrane

“Chikankari, for us, has always been about reinvention and not mere restoration. Deepika wore a sari with her lehenga and a floor-length veil. Sonam’s lehenga had alternating panels in cream and ice pastels,” says designer Abu Jani of Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla.

Detailing

From age-old to Boomerang-friendly, dote on these details.

Licence to frill

A subtle trimming or dramatic tiers, which rendition of ruffles would you pick?

Shilpi Gupta Surkhab. Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue

Sukriti & Aakriti. Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue

Go gota

“Gota patti is used to elevate pastels and summer shades. It should ideally not be paired with bright synthetic colours. This can be seen in our new collection, where subdued booti prints have been highlighted with gota patti,” says Ritu Kumar.

Image: Ritu Kumar

“It’s essential to preserve the crafts of India, and one way to do it is by giving it modern-day appeal. I’ve long used gota patti to complement my creations—couture and bridal. It’s also in our new Pichhwai collection,” says Anita Dongre.

Image: Anita Dongre

Ready, set, sparkle

A generous serving of shine never goes out of style, especially if it’s the KiraKira kind.

Image: Plumtin

Image: Neeta Lulla

Evening Gowns

What goes into conco
cting a cocktail gown? Nikhil Mehra of Shantanu & Nikhil decodes their most extravagant creation this season.

Image: Shantanu & Nikhil

The Anti-Trend metallic gown took 15 artisans and 25 days to embroider the torso. The drape detailing has been created using foil prints over faux leather.

Favours

From bespoke baubles to bags, here’s what’s finding favour with the bride-to-be.

Ahujasons

“A silk scarf is a fail-safe favour. We have hues and prints that go from staple to statement,” says Bhuvan Ahuja, director.

Image: Ahujasons

Forest Essentials

“Priyanka and Nick wanted guests to experience the beauty of wedding rituals. We also created cards with the Sanskrit translation of their names,”says Diviya Chawla, creative director.

Image: Forest Essentials

Outhouse Jewellery

“Whether it’s the addition of charms or packaging, every detail of the gift is customisable,” says Kaabia Grewal, co-owner of Outhouse Jewellery.

Image: Outhouse Jewellery

Guests

Shyamal Shodhan of Shyamal & Bhumika gives us his guidelines for the guest. “Put red to rest. Guests should steer clear of traditional hues that a bride is likely to wear. Try colours like mint, dusty pink, sea green, pastel yellow and ivory. When going with something as classic as the lehenga at the bottom, have fun with the top. Turn to jacket-like or off-shoulder blouses, halter or plunging necks, cape sleeves and shrugs,” he suggests.

Image: Shyamal & Bhumika

Image: Vasansi Jaipur

Image: A la Mode

Image: Gopi Vaid

Shehlaa by Shehla Khan Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue

Groom

Varun Bahl has the go-tos for the groom down pat. “A kurta with a printed or embellished bundi looks both luxurious and fun and allows the groom to experiment in a more casual way than the sherwani,” he says.

Image: Varun Bahl

Bahl suggests we shelve this stereotype: “The cliché that pastel tones are only meant for women is one that I’ve always wanted to break. I’ve dressed grooms in everything from our signature old rose to duck-egg blue.”

Antar-Agni.Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue

Anushree Reddy.Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue

Kunal Rawal.Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue

Glitter

Tadashi Shoji.Image: Getty

Makeup artist Bianca Louzado’s foolproof glitter plan: “Choose a glitter brand that doesn’t fall out and micronised particles that won’t hurt the eyelid. Use a makeup fixer from a 20cm distance to set it in.” Pair it with a bare, luminous face.

Simone Rocha.Image: Getty

Hair

Breathtaking buns are stealing the spotlight. Adorn them with blooms, or add a piece of sparkling jewellery as a final touch.

Givenchy.Image: Getty

In-betweeners

Gaurav Gupta, the designer who mastered the mix between East and West, delves into the details of the newest iteration of his famed sari-gown. “This silhouette consists of a tube blouse that is connected to the sari at the back, with a reversed, embellished collar. It exposes the shoulder in a new way, and our signature sculpted pallu takes various shapes as one drapes it on her body,” says Gupta.

Gaurav Gupta.Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue

Jewelled clutches

This year the staple accessory comes finished with frost. Check out Vogue’s favourite picks.

Victorian’ clutch, Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewllers.

‘Jodi’ crystal cage bag, Rosantica by Michela Panero at Matchesfashion.com

‘Bling’ sphere clutch, Judith Leiber

Swarovski and pearl clutch, Amanda Navai

Jutti

Stash your wedges for a pair of juttis, embroidered or embellished.

‘Pandora’ juttis, Needledust

‘Rouge’ juttis, Coral Haze

‘Trickle’ juttis, House of Vian

‘Johari’ juttis, KKarma by Kabir Varma

Kaftan

Manish Malhotra cracks the code for the kaftan. “Fabrics like mashru, sheer organza with light chikankari or net with Kashmiri work are a good idea for summer as opposed to crêpe and georgette,” says Malhotra.

Image: Manish Malhotra

“A sheer kaftan with side slits can be layered over a bustier and paired with pants for a mehendi ceremony. The same kaftan can be used as a cover-up for a pool party or paired with a short skirt for brunch,” he adds.

Image: Manish Malhotra

Lehenga

He dressed Isha Ambani Piramal and her squad for the pre-wedding festivities. So, who better to give us the latest on the lehenga than designer Manish Malhotra?

Image: Instagram.com/manishmalhotra05

“Instead of opting for embellishments all over, brides are letting the silhouette do the talking and leaning towards colours like pink, pistachio, deep green or toned-down metallics like oxidised silver,” says Malhotra. “Even though the classic choli has been a firm favourite, brides are enhancing it with tassels and feathers. Some are even opting for a long jacket instead of a choli. A lehenga sari with a veil and contemporary embroidery is a silhouette that I feel will be big in the coming season,” he ends.

Mod mangalsutra

The mangalsutra is due a makeover. Take your cues from these celebrity brides.

Priyanka Chopra Jonas: ‘Less is more’ was the motto for the new bride, who opted for a tear-shaped pendant.

Image: Viral Bhayani

Deepika Padukone: A single solitaire took centre stage in the star’s mangasultra.

Image: Viral Bhayani

Sonam Kapoor Ahuja: Sonam’s came studded with her and beau Anand Ahuja’s star signs.

Image: Viral Bhayani

Neo-bride

The new-age bride veers towards versatile and isn’t afraid to mix and match, says Monica Shah of Jade. “Choose versatile designs that you can find use for even after the wedding, such as a crop-top blouse, an embroidered jacket instead of a dupatta, and dhoti pants. Step away from clichéd colour palettes and silhouettes. Keep it light but elegant. You can’t be held back from having a good time by an ultra-heavy lehenga. Don’t be afraid to mix and match—team Gatsby-esque glamour with Indian mythology,” says Shah.

Image: Jade by Monica and Karishma

Off-colour

Tiffany blue or slate grey, no hue is off-limits for the millennial bride.

Image: Shantanu & Nikhil

Image: Anita Dongre

Image: Diva’Ni

Priyanka Chopra Jonas

We’re crushing on this reigning bride of 2018. From her red Sabyasachi lehenga that took 110 embroiderers and 3,720 hours to complete, to the secret messages inscribed on her white wedding gown. Makeup artist Sandhya Shekar tells us how to take the ‘less is more’ approach à la Chopra:“Do spot corrections only where it’s required. Accentuate one feature—your eyes or lips—identifying what works best for you. Overdoing skin where the pores get invisible is an indication to stop. And tonnes of blending is a must.”

Image: Instagram.com/sabyasachi

“It took approximately two months to complete Priyanka Chopra Jonas’ kaliras. We added a modern spin to the timeless tradition with the initials ‘NP’ hanging as tiny pendants below each kalira,” says Mrinalini Chandra.

Image: Instagram.com/ralphlauren

The custom-made Ralph Lauren gown had a part of Denise Jonas’ wedding gown sewn in and came embroidered with eight messages, including her parents’ first names and Nicholas Jerry Jonas—her husband’s full name.

Party starters

“Sexier silhouettes and subdued shades,” says Shane Peacock of their creations, which take close to 900 hours to craft. “The cuts for gowns are risqué this season. There’s a lot of sheer, cut-outs, deep necklines and thigh-high slits. The colour palette is tilted towards toned down shades like champagne, blush and mauve,” he says.

Image: Falguni and Shane Peacock

Questions

Two designers answer your FAQs. “The most common question I get asked by brides is how to choose the right ensemble for a summer wedding. My response is always simple: Choose fabrics that are lightweight, easy and aid movement. Florals never go out of style, and whites with metallic embellishments will always be a summer classic,” says Anita Dongre.

Anita Dongre

“Brides find an outfit on Instagram and a common question they have is how the outfit will look on them. While we do have recommendations on what could look good on a particular skin tone or body type, the general advise we give is to come in and try the outfit,” says Shyamal Shodhan, Shyamal & Bhumika.

Shyamal Shodhan

Recall value

Krésha Bajaj tells us how to personalise the bridal moment. “The journey of a ‘Love Story Lehenga’ begins with a creative session with the bride and her unique love story. She’s included in every step of the journey till the final fitting. Each ‘Love Story Lehenga’ takes a minimum of three months to craft,” she says.

Samantha Prabhu in Krésha Bajaj’s Love Story Lehenga

Sneakers

For the guest and bride (remember Serena Williams’s bedazzled Nike kicks?), the white sneaker is here to say.

‘Spike Sock’ low-top trainers, Christian Louboutin at Matchesfashion.com

‘Saga’ leather, suede, mesh and stone sneakers, Gucci

‘Eclypse’ sneakers, Stella McCartney at Mytheresa.com

Techni-colour

Rules to remember: No combination of colours is too crazy to come together.

Image: Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla

Image: Surily Goel

Up and coming

Meet the new names we’re betting on.

Silai

Vogue loves: Monotone sets in sultry silk, satin and tulle.

Image: Silai

Punit Balana

Vogue loves: The bridesmaid friendly, fuss free silhouettes and prints.

Image: Punit Balana

Veil

Three brides served up varied versions of the veil. Which one has your vote?

Red is the new white. Deepika Padukone’s scarlet Zuhair Murad gown came with a veil to match.

Image: Instagram.com/deepikapadukone

Image: Shutterstock

Something blue. Meghan Markle’s veil came with a piece of blue fabric that she wore on her first date with Prince Harry.

The bigger the better. Priyanka Chopra Jonas’s 75ft-long veil required five people to get her to the altar.

White wedding

Priyanka Chopra Jonas, Chiara Ferragni and Karlie Kloss stayed classic with delicate lace on their big day.

Image: Instagram.com/dior

XY

What his and her closet have in common.

Raghavendra Rathore. Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue

Raghavendra Rathore. Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue

Anita Dongre. Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue

Anita Dongre. Image: Sagar Ahuja/Vogue

Yesteryear

We give you details of the nostalgic number that racked up rapid likes on Sonam Kapoor Ahuja’s Instagram. “The ensemble was a revival of the traditional way of dressing in a kanchli and kurti teamed with a gharara made with gota bhichawat and asharfi motifs from our archives. The colour gold pays homage to the original gota colour,” says Deepshikha Khanna, Good Earth ‘Sustain’.

Image: Instagram.com/sonamkapoor

Zone

Your dress code by destination. Rajasthan’s colour, architecture and tradition translate into mirror work and colours like rani pink and blue. Whether it’s ghagras, poshak, jodhpuris and bandhgalas, there are so many exceptional silhouettes. Accessorise with jadau and statement juttis,” says Sandeep Khosla.

Image: Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla

Read the original article here : Vogue