The idea of pre-plated Indian cuisine sounded most intriguing to me, as someone who loves the drama of presentation. It was equally intriguing to my husband, as someone who might finally enjoy the delicate side of his favourite spicy Indian meats in masala. Whether or not this balancing act could be successful was worth determining at Ziya, the fine dining Indian restaurant at the Oberoi Hotel Mumbai. So we went, to celebrate our anniversary and to sample twice Michelin- starred Chef Vineet Bhatia’s creations. We opted for the fixed Menu that was a four course meal, with a few options to pick from. There wasn’t too much of a choice for Non-Vegetarians in the set menu, with only one Chicken tikka v/s two vegetarian starters, and only one fish and one chicken main course option.

While we waited, we took in the elaborate yet tasteful (Gasp!) gold décor. Intricately carved wood panels in gold finish, an open kitchen with stone slabs on the walls, muted beige furnishings on a wood paneled floor with intricate rugs, all coming together while your eye is drawn to the gorgeous golden plates and cutlery. The vista of the queen’s necklace on Marine Drive through the bay windows wasn’t too bad either. The music however was clichéd, old school Bollywood with a Buddha Bar lounge twist. It was a Saturday night and we were glad we reserved a table in advance. Between 9:30 and 10:00 the restaurant was operating at full capacity, with an equal mix of locals and foreigners.

The long hungry wait was appeased with a strange mocktail of guava and spices that came highly recommended by the server. Then came a small aloo tikki served on a wooden skewer, as well as some rolled and roasted papad with a selection of green chilly and coriander mint chutney, beetroot yogurt dip and papaya relish. There wasn’t an option with the soup, which turned out to be a variation of the Maharashtrian Amti or South Indian Sambar served with a thumbprint Medu Vada. Not very innovative there, but it did make us appreciate an unsung dish, one that is normally just eaten with Rice or chapatti. The chicken tikkas were lovely, but the vegetarian tikka was unexpectedly fabulous. Encrusted in almond shavings, the tikki was served with a puri topped with a spicy- sour sorbet of the chaat paani. 

What followed was the main course. By now, the staff had picked up pace, and acted like a well oiled machine. Some soda and napkins emerged at my table the instant I spilt a little dal on my dress. The betki, baked in a boiled Chilli Masala, sat atop a creamy mountain of coconut rice, in a pool of tomato kadhi.  It was rich, tangy, creamy and had a most unexpected hit of chilly. The secret behind the unique flavor of the chilli masala, chef Renji Raju divulged, was the fact that the chillies were boiled to tone down the spice for their continental clientele. The chilli was then mixed with oil and garlic to form a sort of preserve that could only be spread on non-saline fish on account of its salty flavor. The other main course of Matka Chicken was a pot enclosed braised chicken masala with chilli rice, kachumber raita and mathi sticks, served with Naan bread and Kaali Dal. The hit of the spicy chicken was perfectly balanced by what lay beneath it - a milder, tangy tomato rice that perfectly took the bite out of the chili in the chicken. Be warned, the dish is a one pot concoction, so make sure you eat combined spoonfuls of both the chicken curry and the rice.

With stomachs filled to the brim, we were unable to even take a look at the Dessert Menu yet. So we tried to walk over to the poolside for a smoke. Be warned, with the new Govt. rules, every place you visit has become most smoker unfriendly, as we were politely told that the poolside shuts at 10 pm. The sweet waiter though, accompanied us to the ground floor lobby and directed us to the vestibule where we finally saw an ashtray, gleaming, inviting.

The dessert menu sounded most interesting and the Shahi Zafran Tukda that finally emerged from the kitchen was a work of art. The saffron shahi tukda encrusted with gold leaf, topped with sohan papdi flakes came served with a pistachio crème brulee.  It was rich, sweet and full of surprising textures and spices. The ice cream selection too was most interesting, and we were surprised by the mango-fennel combination. The rose petal- vanilla one wasn’t very “fine-dining”, but what really blew us away was the caramelized banana ice-cream. An absolutely divine end to a beautiful experience.

So if you're looking for a new experience, but something you're sure to like, Ziya is the way to go. Thanks to Chef Vineet Bhatia who's found a beautiful and much needed balance in bringing a familiar yet unknown cuisine to Mumbai's palate.

Ziya at the Oberoi Hotel, Nariman Point in Mumbai Tel: +91-22-66325757 is open daily for Lunch and Dinner (12.30-2.30pm, 7-11.30pm) Meal for two with drinks approx Rs 5,000, unless you opt for one of the fixed/ tasting menus.