By Morris Gut
Manhattan Voice
August 19, 2023
FOOD - Imer Rraci and his veteran team have reimagined the former La Riserva, a lovely setting for the Italian classics.
Named after an island off the coast of Venice, Chef Avni turns out such winning dishes as: colorful Mozzarella Caprice; Eggplant Rollatini; Rigatoni Bolognese in a meat Sauce; Risotto Di Funghi with porcini; Veal Martini; classic Rack of Lamb; and delicious Pollo Torcello, topped with applewood bacon and melted fresh mozzarella in a light bourbon mushroom sauce. Rraci has spent years working for the former Giambelli in Manhattan, and Valbella in Old Greenwich, CT. Open 7 days for dinner starting at 4:30 p.m. Bar/cocktails. Outdoor patio. Free parking. Torcello, 2382 Boston Post Road, Larchmont. 914-833-1118 www.torcellolarchmont.com
LENO’S CLAM BAR STILL GOING STRONG!
Here is a summer food stop worth making. I started going to Leno’s generations ago for their burgers, steamers, fried clams, grilled hotdogs, and corn on the cob swimming in butter. They have reopened for another season. It’s a wonderful no-frills experience. It has not changed much, now in its 3rd generation.
Road foodies may remember Leno’s Clam Bar, also known as ‘Greasy Nick’s’, along Pelham Road (Shore Road) in New Rochelle, just minutes from the Bronx line and Orchard Beach. It’s just down the road from lovely Glen Island Park. The owner’s family is related to comedian Jay Leno who lived in New Rochelle early in his career.
Load up the metal table outside or take a seat at the indoor counter: their famous cheeseburgers with sautéed onions (a must!) and fries; dripping corn on the cob; fried clams with tartar sauce, hot dogs, and cheese dogs. Thank goodness for all those napkins. You get your own beverages inside, and it’s still on the honor system. Table service is very friendly and laid back. The first couple of bites bring back memories galore! As we sat there on a recent summer late afternoon, Greasy Nick’s fans driving cycles and Teslas were arriving from every direction. Leno’s Clam Bar is at 755 Pelham Road, New Rochelle. Open daily during the season. Indoor and outdoor seating. Phone: 914-636-9869.
MARIO’S AFTER VISITING NYBG!
A venerable Arthur Ave. Little Italy institution in the Bronx, Mario’s is marking over 103 years of operation. Regina Migliucci and her friendly staff run the show. To many, the flavorful sauces and gravies produced in this kitchen are the stuff of Italian ‘foodie heaven’. For those in the know, the old-world menu also holds many surprises. After a summer visit to the beautiful New York Botanical Garden, we stopped in for a bite. For starters enjoy the palate pleasing lagniappe of marinated carrots, and good crusty Arthur Ave. bread. We shared a delicious Margherita pizza, Rigatoni Sorrentino, baked with tomato sauce, ricotta and mozzarella; and my granddaughter devoured the Penne alla Vodka. Also check out their Antipasti for 2, Spiedini, Chicken Parmigiana, Lasagna, Braciola, Osso Buco. Mario’s, 2342 Arthur Ave., Bronx. 718-584-1188 www.mariosarthurave.org
WINGS FLY AT TUCK’D AWAY!
Chicken Wings are plentiful all over Westchester, but you must try them at Tuck’d. Wings fly out of the kitchen here. They come with a choice of 15 wet or dry sauces. Michael Cuozzo operates a friendly tavern on Yonkers Ave., Tuckahoe, that offers delightful comfort foods and reasonably priced Happy Hours. Additional specialties include Fried Calamari; Honey Chicken Wedge; house made Turkey Chili; juicy Burgers; Baby Back Ribs; Personal Pizzas; and Make Your Own Mac N Cheese. Happy hours: Monday thru Friday, 3-6 p.m. Saturdays to 5 p.m. Unlimited Wings & beer Wednesday nights from 7-9 p.m., $30. Weekend Brunch. Seasonal outdoor seating. Tuck’d Away Bar and Grill, 90 Yonkers Ave., Tuckahoe. Phone: 914-222-9162. www.tuckedaway90.com
NEW WEEKEND BRUNCH AT MACELLERIA STEAKHOUSE!
A new bottomless brunch menu is being served Saturdays and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. featuring eggs & omelets, fresh salads, burgers and sandwiches. The regular menu will also be available. This high-end Italian steakhouse in Pelham serves classic cuts of prime beef and chops along with a hearty helping of Italian/American specialties. Be seated in the handsomely renovated dining room or bar/lounge and peruse the menu over a good glass of wine. Diver Scallops, Steak Tartare, slabs of Canadian Bacon, Spaghetti Carbonara, Pappardelle with Short Rib Ragu, Zuppa di Pesce, even a Classic Burger. Carnivores should consider the Lamb Chops, Veal Chop, New York Strip Steak, or Porterhouse for two. Steller wine list. Open 7 days for lunch and dinner. Macelleria, 142 Fifth Ave., Pelham. 914-365-2561 www.macelleriasteakhouse.com
JACK’S TO OPEN JILL’S IN MAMARONECK!
Shane Clifford, proprietor of popular Jack’s Bar & Kitchen, a modern Irish American tavern in Eastchester, has a new restaurant in the works in Mamaroneck. Shane and his team are currently renovating the former Baby Dukes space (some may recall it as Lum Yen). It will be called Jill’s. If Jack’s is any indication, Jill’s will be serving up a winning combination of gastropub specialties with pizzazz, along with a good dose of hospitality. They hope to open by September.
Jill’s is located at 100 W. Boston Post Road, Mamaroneck, off the corner of Mamaroneck Ave. It is across from Harbor Island Park. Jill’s website is currently under construction. www.jackseastchester.com
BACKYARD OPENS AT MAGNO’S GRILL!
It’s alfresco time at Magno’s Grill in New Rochelle. Look for their special Surf & Turf: Filet Mignon w portobello, Port wine sauce & Lobster Tail stuffed with crabmeat, shrimp, scallops in scampi sauce. This talented group also serves Jurassic Tomahawk Steaks, and a fine version of Parrillada, hearty mixed grill with chimichurri sauce. Chef/owner Angelo Magno had put his talents to work at such lauded kitchens at Tango Grill, Milonga and Gaucho Grill. He has joined forces with his family at his own 60-seat spot featuring fine versions of Italian and Argentinean classics. Additional house specialties: fresh Empanadas, Chicken or Veal Parmigiana, hearty Paella, and hefty Pork Osso Buco. Cocktail bar. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Municipal parking nearby. Reservations accepted. Magno’s Grill, 108 Centre Ave., New Rochelle. 914-235-0008 https://www.opentable.com/r/magnos-grill-new-rochelle
(Morris Gut is a restaurant marketing consultant and former restaurant trade magazine editor. He has been tracking and writing about the food and dining scene in the Bronx and Westchester for 30 years. He may be reached at: 914-235-6591. Email: [email protected])
