Milan in the autumn can be a wonderful time — still warm and sunny, perfect days for idling the afternoon away at a trattoria or wandering the Golden Triangle for some shopping.

Then again, it can also rain every day.

Neither really matters, though, since the fashion pack will be spending the next five days rushing to and fro across town to shows and presentations — and hoping to at least grab a panini and espresso at some stage for lunch, and perhaps a glass of prosecco and some parmesan at a fashion party for dinner.

But for those able to take a break between it all, here are some ideas on where to spend time.

WHAT TO SEE

Robert Doisneau Exhibition

Famed photographer Robert Doisneau is being celebrated at Museo Diocesano, with an exhibition running until Oct. 15. Best known for street photojournalism, his work is reflected in 130 black-and-white shots, all from the collection of the Atelier Robert Doisneau in Montrouge, Paris.

The exhibition, curated by Gabriel Bauret, spans more than 50 years of the photographer’s career, in a journey that analyzes his most recurring themes, such as love, music and fashion, among others. “Le baiser de l’Hôtel de Ville,” 1950, one of his masterpieces displayed in the exhibit, portrays a kiss between a young couple in front of the Paris town hall while, around them, people are walking. 

The photo, for a long time identified as a symbol of photography’s ability to freeze the moment, was actually not improvised: Doisneau was, in fact, on an assignment for Life magazine and he asked the couple to pose for him.

Museo Diocesano Carlo Maria Martini
Piazza Sant’Eustorgio, 3 – 20122
Tel. 02-89-42-0019
museodiocesano.it

“China — La Nuova Frontiera dell’Arte [The New Art Frontier]” Exhibition 

Fabbrica del Vapore is hosting “China — The New Art Frontier” exhibition until Oct. 8, which includes around 200 works — paintings, calligraphies, sculptures, posters, photographs, films and videos — by more than 150 artists.

The artistic evolution of China is traced through five main sections: the China of the last emperor, referring to the time of Emperor Pu Yi; Mao and the Cultural Revolution in the second half of the 20th century; calligraphy, dedicated to the ancient art, included by UNESCO in the oral and intangible heritage of humanity; ink painting, and, finally, the new painting, a particularly large and varied section with works created mainly by artists from the second half of the 20th century and with various techniques, including oil painting.

The exhibition is curated by Vincenzo Sanfo.

Fabbrica del Vapore
Via Procaccini, 4 – 20154
fabbricadelvapore.org

“Luigi & Iango – Unveiled” Exhibition

The Italo-Swiss fashion photography duo Luigi Murenu and Iango Henzi is presenting their first solo exhibition at Palazzo Reale, running from Friday until Nov. 26. 

More than 100 fine art prints (some unpublished), archival images, behind-the-scenes material, and videos will be on display. The photographers’ preferred themes and passions will be seen ranging from dancing bodies in veils and supermodels or muses, to Japanese sumo wrestlers, Kabuki actors and geishas. The duo also photographed several artists, performers and icons of contemporary culture, from Marina Abramović to Dua Lipa and Cher, Cate Blanchett, and Penélope Cruz to Pedro Almodóvar. At the heart of the exhibit is a gallery dedicated to their creative collaborations with Madonna, featuring unpublished images.

Through the years they created almost 300 covers for various international editions of Vogue magazine, Vanity Fair, and other leading titles such as I-d, Chaos and Dust. Thierry-Maxime Loriot, who has curated touring exhibitions of Viktor & Rolf, Peter Lindbergh, Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier, among others, is in charge of this event and is also the curator of the 300-page book that will be published by Phaidon.

Palazzo Reale
Piazza del Duomo, 12 – 20122
Tel. 02-88-46-5230
palazzorealemilano.it

WHERE TO EAT

Autem*

Autem is a Latin conjunction that means “more” or “and beyond,” combined with the asterisk, representing a union with something unknown.

The concept of this new restaurant in Porta Romana by chef Luca Natalini lies precisely in this concept: the union of his cuisine and technique with the raw materials available in sync with the season. The menu is completed on a daily basis depending on the availability of ingredients, contributing to balancing the planet’s ecosystem.

One of the restaurant’s specialties is horse meat, as are oysters and smoked eel salads. The space’s layout also respects the concept of unity, as customers are welcomed directly by Natalini and his team thanks to an open-style kitchen.

Autem*
Via Serviliano Lattuada, 2 – 20135 
Tel. +39 35-12-78-0368
autem-milano.com

Una Cosa di Ofelé

A former mid-19th century convent in Via Scaldasole hosts the second location of Ofelé Milano. In Lombardy, ofelé is an artisan or pastry maker and “una cosa” means “one thing.” The bistro is open from breakfast to dinner, including aperitif and brunch. The menu is predominantly vegetarian, but any taste will be satisfied.

The choices from the savory or sweet tasting menu for breakfast paired with a selection of beverages including tea such as kukicha (black tea) and Zamaga (orange blossom flavor); tempeh or tofu for lunch with carrots and zucchini, and nettle risotto with asparagus cream for the evening. Or pancakes, made with whole wheat flour as well as pea flour, chickpea flour, or lentil flour, among others.

“Una Cosa represents the result of a path of research and discovery that has led to the knowledge of different worlds, new table habits, flavors and aromas. This bistro is a project in transformation, for which we have accepted some challenges and which, in true Ofelé style, feels like home,” says Stefania Teretti, the owner of Ofelé, which she opened in 2014.

Una Cosa di Ofelé
Via Scaldasole, 7 – 20123
Tel. +39 33-92-26-8584
unacosabistrot.it

Sogni

In a mid-19th century building, located in Via San Calocero, the Sogni restaurant covers more than 5,400 square feet and includes a large garden, ideal for intimate dinner gatherings. The cuisine offers seasonal products, mainly vegetarian, vegan and fish, such as grilled octopus or baked red snapper, and supporting high-standard small producers.

Burnished mirrors, zinc and wood reminiscent of an early 20th-century style are among some of the main elements.

Sogni
Via San Calocero, 8 – 20123
Tel. 02-45-47-2909
sogni.eu

WHERE TO SHOP

Sease

Sease, the premium lifestyle brand founded by Franco and Giacomo Loro Piana, has opened its first store in Milan and fifth in the world after Courchevel, France; Saint Moritz; São Paulo, and Verbier, Switzerland. The urban and activewear brand also comprises classic men’s tailoring with a casual bent, all made in a sustainable way in terms of raw materials, supply chain and the use of natural resources.

The new flagship in Via Montenapoleone covers about 3,240 square feet over two floors and uses both natural and high-tech materials. Teak wood and Solaro fabrics are combined with carbon fiber, rope spools and opaque colors creating a welcoming atmosphere.

“With Sease, we aim to continue our family heritage of quality and Italian elegance with a more contemporary and functional lifestyle. It’s about our life, conceived from our vision and passion. We create timeless products that become loyal companions during every adventure, conveying emotions and a sense of belonging” says Franco Loro Piana, who launched the label in 2018 with his brother, Giacomo. 

Sease
Via Manzoni, 20 – 20121
sease.it

Hair Bar

Hair Bar is a project launched by Enrico Stigliano and Francesca Seralvo in 2021, and the duo just opened the third unit in Milan. The inspiration came after a trip to New York, where this type of fast hair styling is common.

Clients can book their appointment from the app downloadable from Hair Bar’s website. Once there they can choose from a menu offering different folds, braids or hair care services and the work can be done in anywhere from 20 to 40 minutes. 

Hair Bar is committed to sustainability and all the products used contain natural ingredients and active complexes that improve the shine and resistance of hair, protecting it from pollution, heat and increasing its strength and elasticity. “Shampoo please!” or “A round of conditioner!” and “My usual detangler” are just some of the products available.

Paloma Architects was in charge of the store design. Floor-to-ceiling windows and the color palette that goes from light gray to green on the walls, up to the pink of the armchairs and the white of the shelves are the signature of the three Hair Bar units.

The store spans 1,414 square feet and is located in Milan’s buzzy Porta Nuova district.

Hair Bar
Via Joe Colombo, 16 – 20124
hairbar.shop

10 Corso Como Pop-up

Milan concept store 10 Corso Como has opened the doors of its pop-up at the Milan Central Station until the end of October. Located inside the Galleria dei Mosaici, on the platform level, the opening represents an opportunity for the Italian retailer to get in touch with thousands of visitors coming into town.

The space displays accessories, shopping bags, handbags, trousseaus and candles made in collaboration with the best Italian and international workshops, along with Italian pasta and rice, Ligurian olive oil and Tuscan gin, in gift boxes marked by the store’s signature black and white graphics. This is part of 10 Corso Como travel retail division’s strategy that will focus on new retail projects around the world. It so far includes a pop-up in Forte dei Marmi that opened in 2022 and one at Forte Village in Sardinia, that bowed this year.

10 Corso Como Pop-Up
Piazza Duca d’Aosta, 1 – 20124
10corsocomo.com