Last week was a big one in Milan, but the clothes? Small. Teeny tiny. Minuscule! In essence, 2024 is primed to be a #hotpantsummer. The power moves at some of fashion’s most adored brands kept every editor, stylist, influencer and PR on their toes—Gucci’s hotly anticipated debut from new creative director Sabato de Sardo ushered in a palette cleanser of clean lines, subdued colours, ultra-luxe but understated fabrics and a lot more chat about a grey hoodie than I’ve ever heard.

Meanwhile, Peter Hawkings’ first line for Tom Ford played into the codes of the founder, with silky shirts unbuttoned to the navel, slim-fit tailoring and ultra-glam eveningwear. Both Gucci and Tom Ford leaned towards the short hemlines and nearly naked aesthetic that was present all over Milan Fashion Week. 

So the trend for this kind of Milanese minimalism (ahem, not wearing much at all) was rendered in myriad ways. Barely-there, gossamer-light chiffon layers at Prada fluttered as models swept by, whilst butt-cheek-baring short-shorts proved to be the style of choice across MaxMara, Gucci, Bally and many more. Dresses were mini when covered up and maxi when practically see-through, and many looks were flourished with trails of billowing fabric, fringing, neck-ties or trains in order to make as good an entrance as an exit.