I’ve always dreamt of going to Ile de Ré ever since I moved to Paris. Friends and acquaintances would sing their praises about the beauty, charm, and simplicity of the small island, a veritable paradise. I was also told it’s where well heeled and well to do Parisians go on vacances in the summer. In some ways it sounded like it was similar to Nantucket or Martha’s Vineyard.
It was the end of October and I wanted one last opportunity to go to a beach before the cold and gray weather set in. La Rochelle is the main city to get to Ile de Ré, so I decided to spend the day and overnight there.
It’s been a particularly beautiful autumn in Paris and most of France and the weather in La Rochelle and Ile de Ré was magnificent. Sunshine with unreal blue skies with just a bit of chill to let you know summer passed the torch to autumn was with me for two days.
La Rochelle was one of the most important ports in France from the 1200s to the 1400s. Entering the city on my way to my hotel, I passed the harbor where tall mast sailboats and yachts were moored on the glistening water and the scent of saltwater wafted up to my sinuses.
My hotel, although officially a chamber d’hote, was located on a quiet street in the old city. Eden Ouest is a sweet and sophisticated guesthouse with five color themed rooms. The owner Bertrand Patoureau converted the 1800s home into a Bread and Breakfast in 2012 and completely remodeled. I had the Ochre suite on the first floor, and the hues of ochre throughout the room were relaxing. Patoureau placed artworks and crafts from artist friends in all the rooms. His wife Lise Humeau is a painter and some of her lovely paintings decorated my room. The big surprise was the enormous bathroom suite, almost the same size as the room, which had an oval shaped wood Jacuzzi/bathtub in the middle and a shower with a bench inside. The other cool feature was that the entire bathroom could be made into a steam room.
Eden Ouest was just down the road from the daily food market pavilion and as I approached it, a joyous art installation of fuchsia color umbrellas hung in rows above the market square cheerfully greeted me. Fresh oysters dominated the outdoor market and even though it was just 11AM, the oysters cried out, taste me, taste me now; I don’t care what time it is. I downed three oysters in a matter of seconds, sucking out every last bit and letting the salt water cleanse my palate. A few hours after my oyster orgy, I was craving a light lunch. Delice Omelette is a cute café specializing in, you guessed it, omelets and I had an unusual omelet with farm fresh eggs and hummus, arugula and coriander. I was intrigued by the desert omelet of with pine nuts and salted butter caramel, but refrained.
The rest of the day I strolled through the city, taking in the ancient stone buildings and half-timber houses.
I slept very well in my comfy bed at Eden Ouest and the next morning had a home-prepared breakfast.
Miss La Rochelle 2018
I headed out at about 9:30AM to take a taxi to Ile de Ré, which is about a 25-minute drive from La Rochelle. We drove on an extended bridge high above the water and once we were on Ile de Ré I could already relate to what people spoke about. The mostly flat landscape was surrounded by water and we passed some small settlements and towns, until we arrived at Saint Martin, one of the three main villages of the island.
A small harbor was crowded with small boats and the short edifices surrounding them read quaint but not cute.
Bicycling is the preferred transportation in Ile de Ré with well-marked bicycle paths around the island. I rented an electric bicycle, my first time ever trying one out. I rode along the beaches, which were dry and covered with oyster beds. The shades of fall were showing up in the grass that was turning into hay and mustard colored moss topping the water. There were a few seafood restaurants on the seaside where cyclists stopped to shuck and eat oysters but I didn’t want to stop the momentum of my bike ride. Although, I didn’t have time to see them, I missed seeing the salt flats further down. The electric bike came in handy as the cycling back to town became more difficult as I was riding against the wind on a windy day.
Hotel Toiras, a Relais & Chateau establishment, is a former ship builder’s home and was converted into a five-star hotel in 2005 by owner Olivia Le Calvez. The hotel kindly provided one of the nicest suites, The Madame Sevigne. It was ironic to stay in that room because Madame Sevigne’s former mansion, now the Carnavalet Museum, is just around the corner from my apartment in the Marais. I felt as royal as Madame Sevigne, luxuriating in my opulent suite decorated silk, satin, brocade, parquet wood, and marble. Madame Sevigne was one of the foremost letter writers in French history, writing over 1,000 intimate letters to her family and friends in the 17th century. A handsome, highly buffed writing desk was outfitted with lovely, parchment stationery and I was tempted to take a cue from the suite’s namesake and write a handwritten note but sadly there was no quill pen.
After a long day of cycling, walking, and going bonkers taking photos, I relaxed for a drink by the fireplace in the elegant but cozy salon. I went upstairs to change and as I looked out my window facing the harbor, I was so stunned by gorgeous, scarlet sunset, I was almost late to dinner.
Dinner at La Table de Olivia in the discreet, club like dining room was included in my stay. The freshest sea scallops were served with chestnuts and mushroom chips and a classic Grand Marnier soufflé was a sublime finish to a divine meal.
My only regret about this wonderful trip was I wish could have stayed longer in Ile de Ré.
La Rochelle
Eden Ouest
33 rue Thiers 17000 La Rochelle
+33 (0) 6 82 62 68 97
https://edenouest.com/en/
Delice Omelette
2 Rue des Cloutiers, 17000
Ile de Ré
Hotel de Toiras
1 Quai Job Foran, 17410 Saint-Martin-de-Ré
https://hotel-de-toiras.com/en/
Hotel Toiras
Madame Sevigne suite
Please watch my latest A Bite of Paris video, Honey Tasting at Famille Mary, where I taste a bunch of yummy flavored honey's.
Click here to watch or link below.
https://youtu.be/oR2LLlFSjeM
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