High speed train from Nairobi to Mombasa
This is the second time I’ve taken the high speed Madaraka Train from Nairobi down to the coast at Mombasa. The first time was in first class and this time in second. It’s easy to book and has amazing views so what are perks and minus’s of travelling to the coast by train?
What is the Madaraka Express?
It’s a modern train that runs from the highlands at Nairobi through Tsavo down to Mombasa. When I first got the train in November, the morning train was a 5-hour journey. They have recently swapped the timetables around with the faster 5-hour train leaving at 2.30 and arriving at 19.30. The arguably more convenient morning train now runs at a leisurely 6 hours.
I chose the morning train, who wants to arrive in Mombasa at 7.30 at night? Although capable of fast speed the Madaraka prefers to chug along at grandma pace, stopping at 8 different stations along the way. It’s a long journey, no doubt about it. And, if you are going to Diani or Tiwi then there’s a two-hour taxi journey at the other end. So why take the train when a plane can get your there in an hour?
Amazing journey, unforgettable scenery.
It’s a beautiful journey. As you leave the suburbs of Nairobi behind it’s not long before you encounter wildlife and wildflowers. In May the Kenyan landscape was blanketed in white flowers as far as the eye can see. For over two hours I travelled past rambling flower covered vines. They rampantly clung to buildings and fences, filled fields, circled towns and made strides towards the ocean. It was a mesmerizing sight. The journey takes within sight of Africa’s highest mountain, Kilimanjaro. Its snowy peak easily visible from the train. It takes you through Baobab country. The statuesque trees native to Africa become innumerable as you edge towards the coast.
It’s a fantastic chance to see more of real Kenya. A glimpse into village life is a rare treat. School kids run after the train waving, a man herds his oxen; women wash their clothes in streams.
Entering Tsavo, what was an arid red desert in October is now filled with greenness and life. I saw huge elephant herds, impala, wildebeest and many giraffe. I’m sure on the right day you will see lion, leopard, rhino and cheetah, after all Tsavo is one of Kenya’s wildlife havens. A happy couple of hours are spent chuntering through the park… it’s a train safari like no other.
Half an hour from the ocean the humidity hits and the landscapes changes again. Palm trees, sparse at first, fill the fields. Vegetable farming peaks; valleys full of maize, cassava, cashew and melon, give way to views of the sea. Disembarking from the train the cool Nairobi air is whisked away in a wave of heat and salt. The ocean beckons sweetly as the equatorial lowlands share their heat. You’re in Mombasa… and it’s hot.
How to book
Booking is super simple. Head to https://metickets.krc.co.ke/ and pick the date, time and class of travel. Pay easily by credit card or Mpesa. Takes seconds.
Passengers can book tickets 30 days in advance and a return ticket as long as it is within 30 days.
One can book up to a maximum of five persons per transaction
Pricing
Economy is 1000 KSH from Nairobi to Mombasa and 3000 in first. Full details of pricing can be found here. http://krc.co.ke/madaraka-express-rates/
Children below 3 years are free and those between 3 and 11 are half price.
The Terminal
The terminal is as sleekly modern as any you would find in Europe. Clean and functional it’s sadly lacking any form of a shop, so bring your own food and water.
Picking up your tickets is easy at the counters situated at the entrance to the building. Come armed with your phone number and the reference number that will have been sent to you via SMS. You’ll also need your ID.
Once through the many layers of security there’s a waiting area but no machines or shops to buy even a bottle of water. There is a food service on the train but it took 3 hours to reach me… so if you need breakfast, then bring it.
Security
Security is tight. You car is searched as you enter the car park and you and your bag are searched another 5 times before you get on the train. Arrive an hour ahead to cater for the many checks. Sniffer dogs patrol as you stand in a line, X ray scanners for you and your bags at 3 different check points as well as a pat down. Don’t bring alcohol; I had to wave a sad goodbye to the bottle of wine I’d packed for the evening.
The Train
The train is clean and modern throughout, yep, even the toilets. They are fanatical about cleanliness, not a crumb dropped before someone comes to sweep it up. The loos have paper and the sinks running water, and everyone is assigned a seat.
The slower morning train stops at Athi River, Emali, Kibwezi, Mtito Andei, Voi, Miasenyi, Mariakani and Mombasa. The afternoon is direct with no stops and an hour shorter.
First Class
First Class was equivalent to first class in most trains in Europe. Lots of space, two seats to a row, some facing in a quad of four and some individual. They all came with s armrests and metal tray tables. There was a food service, which came up twice in a 6-hour period, so again, take food. I believe there is supposed to be improvements on the First class food service but at this point it was little better than second.
First class was great. My plan was to read, sleep, write a blog on my little tray table and watch the scenery glide past and I managed all this in comfort.
Second Class
Second class was a different experience. The cabins are still clean and fairly spacious. They aren’t overcrowded, no standing in corridors or sitting on the floor outside the loo as is my experience of commuting to London every day. In fact in comparison to any UK commute or tube journey it was the bees knees. The seating is a bench seating with little space. There’s a little table that only the person in the window seat can use but you’d be hard pressed to find the space to work even if you manage to grab it. There are no armrests or ways for the seat to recline so it’s really hard to sleep unless you feel like dribbling on a stranger’s shoulder. There is minimal leg room. None of this is a deal break on a short journey but on a 6-hour journey it was a lesson in staying still. Everything ached by the end and there was no way to stretch or change position. It was hard work.
There was a food trolley that came after three hours. I wasn’t allowed to leave the cabin to buy food. The food when it came was one beef sandwich and a bottle of water… no chips or snacks. Everyone else on the train was clearly clued up to the fact, as they came with enormous bags of chips and giant chocolate bars. Like I said it was hard work.
It would be wrong to say second class was in any way bad. It wasn’t. Just for the length of time I could have done with a little more space and a place to rest my head.
Travelling to Mombasa station
It’s a quick walk out the station to meet a bewildering flurry of taxis drivers and matatus all hassling to take you into town. Both times I’ve been I’ve tried to call an Uber and none have been available.
The taxi I took into town was 1300 KSH and the one we took to Diani was 5000, but, hey, I’m rubbish at negotiating so you can probably pay less.
A matatu is 100 KSH into Mombasa.
Kenya Railways has provided bus/connect services to and from the Mombasa and Nairobi Termini.
In Mombasa, boarding is at the Mombasa Terminus in Miritini. Customers can catch the connect bus from the old railway station along Mijikenda Road at 6:00 am.
The same buses will transport customers on arrival from the Mombasa Terminus to Mombasa CBD. The cost is Ksh. 100
Travelling to the station in Nairobi
In Nairobi, catch the commuter train from the CBD railway station at 6:10 am; The same services are available upon arrival to both destinations
In Nairobi, connect services are offered by the Commuter Train and City shuttle buses at the CBD railway station. The Commuter train will pick up customers at 06:10am and transport them to the Nairobi Terminus in Syokimau area at Ksh. 50
Luggage
Weight: Not exceeding 30 kilograms
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