Umerkot is a historic Town of Sindh, Pakistan. Here, Hindus and Muslims live to gather in the same neighborhood. They live in harmony and peace. This old town has both mosques and temples located in the same streets. I noticed there is less crime rate. About seven to eight different customers are holding their wallets and entering the ATM booth all at the same time. No one cares about theft or robbery. Everyone knows each other so well. Here, villagers have left their fertilizers and other valuable items of rural life on open roads. They’ll pick them up the next day when they return back to the city. Umerkot is an old, peaceful, unique, diverse, and beautiful town in our troubled subcontinent region.

I wish the future of India and Pakistan be like this town. Otherwise, there won’t be any glory left to witness. The longest and darkest chapters in our gloomy history must end on a melodious note. Then there isn’t anything more soothing than this medieval town which offers some glorious notes to be added into the history.  And the city assures that its splendid aura is always going to be there to stay longer than usual.

If you are in Sindh, it is easier to reach Umerkot. It’s about three hundred kilometer away from Karachi, Pakistan’s largest city, and about 154 km away from Hyderabad, Sindh’s second largest city. The road is well developed except some seventy kilometers from Mirpurkhas to Umerkot which one has to bear patiently. The Khokhrapar Railway station is also near this town. It connects the area with Munabao, India.

Umerkot has a rich history to its name. It is generally believed that Maharaja Amar Singh was the first ruler who built a fort in 1220s and the city was subsequently named as Amarkot. Later on, the name Umerkot became famous with the arrival of Muslim Sindhi dynasties. Sometimes, the name Umerkot is affiliated with Soomra dynasty king Umer while other times it appears to be a product of legendary story of Umer Marvi by Shah Abdul Latif.

Amarkot or Umerkot, many exciting stories and legends make this medieval town a significant part of subcontinent’s history. It is believed that many centuries to thousand years ago, a local villager whose name remains unknown observed an unusual behavior of his cows. They went to some specific place and pour their milk around an object which later was identified by Hindus as Shiv Lingam. They subsequently built a temple on the site called Shiv temple of Umerkot, Sindh. They conduct Shivratri festival for three days every year. Many Hindus from different corners of the region attend the event. When I reached there in February, they were discussing that it would start from 13th or 14th February and politely invited us. Even though we were Muslims, but they were surprisingly liberal and men with warm hearts. They gave us a tour of the site as well.

Along with Hinduism, there are some traces of Jainism in the surrounding area but now that religion has become completely extinct from the region. There are some traces of Buddhism here. It appears that Buddhim flourished till at least 6th century A.D but later declined. Today, not a single Buddhist resides in Umerkot or neighboring Rajasthan cities.

Perhaps, one of the golden periods of this fortified town began when the local Hindu ruler named Rana Prasad gave refuge to the exiled and defeated Mughal King Humayun. At that time, Sher Shah Suri became virtually the most powerful ruler of India. He caused the soil of India shrunk for Humayun. The defeated King left India with no more than 100 soldiers. He reached Umerkot with only 20 to 25 horsemen and a pregnant wife. Then he stayed here for about 7 months before got hints of support from Kabul and Kandahar. He went there for recruitment and later returned India to regain his kingdom once again.

The most important event during those days at Umerkot was the birth of Mughal King Akbar. He was born on 14th October 1542 A.D. No one knew that the infant child who’d open up his eyes in the desert would go on to become one of the greatest Kings the Indian subcontinent had ever witnessed. With his military tactics and political diplomacy including several matrimonial alliances and support from Rajputs as well as Hindus, he became the mightiest King of India. Umerkot has the honour to host this Mughal family at its most vulnerable position. It’s difficult to snatch that title from this town. And Akbar knew it. Probably, his pro Hindu Rajputs attitude was a result of once Umerkot’s kind and gracious favour upon his family.

Today, the fort still stands in middle of the Umerkot city. This fort shows some glimpses of the glorious past. It currently has one circuit house, a jail, and a museum. These buildings were probably added during the British time. Its front gate still has a Rajput Thakkur Sodha dynasty family ‘crest’ symbol placed on top. It depicts a sun. Some say there used to be a diamond on its centre but it’s an unverified claim.

“The Qila(fort) is in ruins now but it has seen better days. The walls were thick and broad enough for horse carts to ride on.” - Kunwar Karni Singh Sodha, descendant of the royal family.

Today, Umerkot is known for the Umer-Marvi story which is no doubt one of the legendary stories, but it should not overshadow the sacrifices of Hindu rulers for Sindh. Therefore, the story of Rana Ratan Singh Sodha deserves a place in our text books just like the story of Dodo Chanesar or Hoshu Sheedi. He deserves to be known. Many Sindhis don’t remember he ever existed.

Before British conquered Sindh in 1842 and Talpurs were defeated in the battle of Miani, the Sindh was ruled by local Sindhi Muslim dynasties. But they usually wanted peace with the Rajasthan and Hindu Rajputs. Therefore, they often gave control of the Amarkot fort to Hindu Rajputs as goodwill gesture. Also, the fort was originally thought to be built by the Hindus thakurs back in 1220s. When British arrived at Sindh, they took it from the Hindu rulers.

When Talpurs were defeated, the British appointed collectors to collect more taxes from Sindh including Umerkot. The rulers resisted but British were too powerful. As a result, Rana Ratan Sindh Sodha, the ruler of Umerkot revolted. He was successfully driven out of the fort and had to spend 7 months in the unknown locations of torturous Thar desert. At last, he was captured. The Queen Victoria pardoned him on insistence of influential Hindus but Rana remained firm on his stance against unjust taxes on poor residents of his state. British decided to make an example out of this rebel. They built a long and high structure in middle of the fort and decided to hang him in front of the locals.

It’s the case with history, the winners write it differently than the losers. Basically, winning and losing all depends on our personal interpretation of events. Those who think the British won by conquering the piece of land from its original settlers and extorting heavy taxes from poor people, they could be right. And those who think that British failed in front of the courageous freedom fighter, Rana Ratan Singh Sodha who sacrificed for his masses, they could not be that wrong either.

Rana Ratan Singh Sodha was asked his last wish, he said “Untie my hands.” Then he raised his hands to the face and fixed his moustache by both hands. Fixing moustache was considered a signature style of the people of subcontinent and it showed that they were brave and courageous. It was a sign of supreme confidence. He was unafraid of death. Just when he was hanged to gallows in front of local crowd on that large structure, he injected among the locals the sense of freedom. He liberated their souls from perceived slavery. He made them feel victorious in face of apparent and inevitable failure.

As a result, one of the Sindh’s most famous folk songs, “Mor to tille Rana” came into existence. This song doesn’t express the grief over tragic loss of Umerkot and Tharparkar’s ruler. But it is actually a song for happy occasions in particular the birth of new born child. It compares a peacock which dances in rainfall with a young boy who plays in the courtyard. It infers that there will be many offsprings from Rana. “Rana Toman Raaj theenda, lakh theenda” there will be several hundred thousands from you. The song also fits so well with the desert lifestyle, depicting the Peacock and giving the feeling of genuine Rajasthani – Sindhi atmosphere. When in real story someone’s life is coming to an end, the folk song shows a new life embracing this world in the shape of a child.

Umerkot has always found ways to survive in the pages of history and legends. Shah Abdul Latif’s story of Umer Marvi, a romantic tragedy cum patriotic story is that last brick on the wall. It immortalizes the name of Umerkot so long as the history of Sindh will remain intact. Shah Abdul Latif has contributed more for this land than any other individual in time and space.

Umer was a ruler at the time of Soomra dynasty of Sindh who lived in this fort. Soomras ruled Sindh for a long time. There is some record in history about his rule and it all doesn’t entirely appear to be a work of fiction. The ruler of this name is thought to rule Sindh around 1355 A.D whereas the fort was built in 1220s by Hindu Rajput rulers. Umer was a young and handsome Muslim King who ruled over Hindu masses of the region but with a kind heart. Even then that didn’t stop him from trying to achieve the most beautiful girl named Marvi by initially abducting her.

The names of Marvi’s household suggest that she was a Hindu Thari girl but her own name is often adopted by Muslim ladies of Sindh as well. In anyway, Umer wanted her but she resisted to maximum limits till the end. She keep referring to her family and relatives and that even if Umer puts the whole world’s wealth on her feet, she would not marry him. That too give a hint that may be she was a non Muslim whose religion did not permit her to marry Umer at any cost, but that is just an assumption.

I have been to this region of Thar desert. There are many places from the Marvi Jo Khooh (Marvi’s well) to Qasbo, a small village in Nagarparkar where children appeared to have gorgeous appearance. Even though it was extremely hot out there in the desert and the sun was shining with anger, their children had above average features. In particular, I recall the village Qasbo and some places at Mithi city, the Lord of the worlds has been kind to them. Hence, it comes no surprise that Marvi was indeed a beautiful woman of her time.

Many people have told the story of Umer Marvi differently. Shah Abdul Latif, the original creator or narrator of the story only lets us feel the essential parts of the story in form of poetry. We never had a great story teller though we had great poets.

Among many stories, one such says the girl named Marvi lived in a desert village nearby the Amarkot/Umerkot fort. Her parents had many herd and cultivated a small land. They hired a farm boy named Fog/phog to take care of the land and herd. He got attracted to Marvi’s beauty. This could no longer remain hidden as he sought her hand from the parents. They declined and instead arranged her marriage with a man named Khet. At that time, Marvi started liking the simple villager boy who had no extraordinary qualities except that he was a nice man and respected her parents.

Phog didn’t want the marriage to take place, so he went to the King Umer’s Fort and told at Darbaar (court) that he knows a lady who is the most beautiful woman of the time. Umer was a young ruler, so he decided to confirm the news. One day he took took Phog and left for the village with his face covered. He reached near a well where Marvi was taking out water. He asked her to give some water as he was thirsty.  As she gave him the water, he fell in love with her. He revealed his identity and asked her to join him but she declined and told that she was already engaged to a man named khet. At that answer, the young King got angry and abducted her on his camel or horse –whatever he carried- and left for his fort.

He could have forcefully married but there was some dignity in him though he didn’t want to hear the word ‘no.’ She, on the other hand, resorted to hunger strike and fiercely opposed Umer’s ambitions. Since the King wanted her consent, he respected her with kindness but obviously imprisoned her. No one dared to question the King as Marvi's relatives and tribesmen were too afraid. At last, after seven months passed, Marvi vowed not to take a bath, wear new clothes, comb or oil her hair. Umer had no choice but to free her. He asked the soldiers to safely take her to her villagers.

When Marvi reached her village, everyone including her parents and her future husband Khet became suspicious of her chastity. Marvi told them that she was a pure woman and was not touched by Umer but they never truly believed. When Umer came to know that the villagers and her relatives for whom she fought with him didn’t accept her and they frequently insult her, he decided to come out of his fort and march towards her village with a strong army. When the villagers got the news that Umer was coming, they frightened and ran away in the desert, leaving Marvi and some other women at home. Umer met Marvi again nearly at the same place. She said, “You once abducted me and caused me all the pain in this world and now you have come to kill my relatives?” Umer said all he wanted was to see her happy and being accepted. Marvi said, “Whether they believe or not, you should not interfere.” Umer returned to his fort, alone and in pain. She was the only wish of the powerful Soomra ruler of Sindh that never became a reality.

The story doesn’t end here; there are many versions and extensions. Many versions compare Marvi’s test of chastity with Seeta, Indian influential figure in Hindu scriptures. In such versions, she walks or puts hand on fire to prove her innocence and Umer does the same. But there are many stories where Khet marries her and Umer gives them his blessings. In one story, Khet kills her and himself, and their bodies are found in the well. But these are just versions people develop for their own satisfaction. No one truly knows the reality. In any way, there is strange presence of Marvi’s identity in the place known as Marvi-Jo-Khooh (Marvi’s well) believed to be the well from where Marvi gave the water to Umer. Today, some local singers sing at that place, free of cost. Then it all sounds so real in that exact atmosphere. It feels that Marvi is still alive in the surrounding.

Sufism is apparent in the air of Umerkot and Tharparkar areas. It’s mainly because of Shah Abdul Latif Bhittai who visited here. Local Hindus equally respect and love him as much as the Muslims. Apart from that, there are many shrines here. One such shrine named “Dargah Nimaron Shah” came on our way to Umerkot. There is not much information about this particular shrine and the Sufi but it appears that Talpurs and Kalhora rulers had immense respect for him. The tomb is built on the typical style of Sindhi architecture similar to the one at Sachal Sarmast shrine and others. Many poems were written on top of stairs as we entered the shrine.

Umerkot is not just a historical town but it has significance in the present times as well. This is mainly due to its diversity and composition as both Muslims and Hindus live here side by side and peacefully. That is rare in rest of Pakistan which is an Islamic state with Muslim majority. Therefore, this town can have a realistic impact in betterment of Hindu-Muslim relations and the India-Pakistan relations.

It is also a border area between India and Pakistan just like Lahore. But it’s different. In Lahore, we see people from two countries fueling with emotions and feelings of patriotism while their respective armies perform flag lowering ceremonies. At one side are Muslims and other side are mostly Hindus and Sikhs. That is not the case with Umerkot border. Here, at both sides are usually Hindus who speak nearly the same language, ‘Sindhi’ or ‘Thari/Rajasthani.’ They look at each other from across the border not necessarily while flexing their muscle but rather with a soft and emotional glance.

Even the Muslim Sindhis and Tharis don’t see the people across the Indian side of border as much different because they are culturally and socially the same. Same applies to Punjab but their temperament often comes in the way of recognizing too many similarities. That doesn’t apply in this case. Maybe, the local Hindus have caused such environment of good will gesture for the overall diverse communities and races on both sides.

The Hindus of Umerkot and Tharparkar do not marry among their relatives and castes unlike Muslims. And there are not too many Hindus in rest of Pakistan. So they neither can marry nor afford to become extinct. In such a precarious situation, it is their compulsion that they look towards Indian side of border for finding the spouse. The governments of Pakistan and India allow them a special few month visa for such purposes. The present day royal Rana thakur family has started the practice first. The royal family has many Rajasthani princesses from Indian side who now live in Pakistan. The peace brought through marriages is what Mughal King Akbar most likely learnt from Umerkot.

There is much Pakistan as state and its people can do about Umerkot. It is not just a welfare or charity option but an absolutely necessity. The town is losing its recognition and glory since a long time now. There is no Umer Soomro, Shah Abdul Latif, Rana Ratan Singh Sodha, or King Akbar to look at this lost town. From city, it has reduced to a town, and from town it is becoming a village. The government doesn’t even connect it with a better roads from Hyderabad. the fine portion of road ends till Mirpurkhas. Not many Sindhis go towards that town and the rest of Pakistan doesn't even remember this place exists. In these times of utmost forgetfulness about this place, it is so important to look towards it with generous eyes.

Umerkot deserves an attention and it will heal itself if given a chance. It has always done so. We just need to take some steps. The first is to visit this old town. Then if we conduct some literary festivals like in Jaipur, there is no doubt that it will become a huge success. Such an initiative will significantly boost Umerkot’s economy and lost prestige. The learned writers and poets will again open up the pages of history and try to search its name.

The place of Akbar’s birth could be further developed. We can make a beautiful park around it and conduct events in his memory. Surely, this will get world’s attention towards this town. This specific spot has a potential to become one of the great tourist sites for sure.

Or maybe we can allow more publicity of the Hindu festivals like Shivratri which take place in this town. Such gesture will not only add more to the universal message of peace but also help improve Hindu-Muslim relations and Indo-Pakistan relations. Currently, all the media projects is the furious Wagah border flag opening/closing ceremony where Hindus and Muslims seem to shout at each other and flex their muscle rather too often. Umerkot offers an absolutely different border scenario.

This town has the origins of Umer-Marvi’s story. We can build auditoriums and theatres across the town to portray those lines practically. This story should be told and in this exact atmosphere. Here, it all seem like a present reality. Then characters will also come out of their performances and appeal to the hearts.

This city can do so much if given opportunity and recognition to rise like the old times. Umerkot won’t disappoint. It has always made its residents proud. It has always been generous and kind towards others. It has given shelter to those who needed the most. It has taught others the true meaning of love. It does not distinguish between people, their castes or creeds. It embraces all. Its fragrance in the air and its beautiful colors around ancient structures makes the city special. Umerkot has truly a splendid aura around it.