The following apparel glossary contains terms that are generic to clothing and the garment industry and some that are specific to sustainable and organic clothing and eco-fashion.  We are working to create a reference that explains many terms that you might encounter when purchasing clothing to help buyers better understand what they are purchasing.  This is especially important when buying over the Internet where you have to rely more on descriptions.

Fabric and Fashion Glossary Index

| A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | I | J | K | L |
| M | N | O | P | Q | R | S | T | U | V | W | X | Y | Z |

A

Abaca – A vegetable leaf fiber derived from the Musa textilis plant. It is mainly grown in the Philippines but is also found, in smaller amounts, in Africa, Malaysia, Indonesia and Costa Rica. The fiber is obtained from the outer layer of the leaf. Processing occurs when it is separated mechanically into lengths varying from 3 to 9 feet. Abaca is very strong and has great luster. It is very resistant to damage from salt water.

Abrasion Resistance - The ability of a fiber or fabric to withstand surface wear and rubbing.

Absorbency - The ability of a fabric to take in moisture. Absorbency is a very important property, which effects many other characteristics such as skin comfort, static build-up, shrinkage, stain removal, water repellency, and wrinkle recovery.

Acetate - A manufactured fiber formed by a compound of cellulose, refined from Cotton linters and/or wood pulp, and acetic acid that has been extruded through a spinneret and then hardened.

Acrylic - A manufactured fiber derived from polyacrylonitrile. Its major properties include a soft, wool-like hand, machine washable and dryable, excellent color retention. Solution-dyed versions have excellent resistance to sunlight and chlorine degradation.

A-line gown - Form fitting bodices that flare out from the waistline to a full skirt.  These gowns have a seamless waist.

A-line skirt - A skirt that is fitted at the waist and flares out in an A-line or tulip shape at the hem.

Alpaca - True alpaca is a hair fiber from the Alpaca animal, a member of the Ilama family of the South American Andes Mountains. Alpaca is imitated in wool, wool and alpaca blends, rayon, mohair and rayon or cotton blends, and in synthetics fabrics.  Alpaca is fine, silk-like, soft, light weight and warm. It is very rich and silky with considerable luster and resembles mohair. If guard hairs are used, it is inclined to be "boardy".  It is strong and durable. True alpaca is expensive and is often blended with other fibers or imitated by synthetic fibers. Alpaca is found in white, black, fawn or gray. The fibers are less coarse than those of the llama but are higher in tensile strength.  Alpaca is most commonly used in fabrics made into sweaters, dresses, coats, and bedding batting.

Alpaca (Organic) - Free range roaming, pasture rotation, distribution of the Alpaca’s manure as fertilizer, fed no hormones, no chemical dipping for ticks and parasites, no chemicals ingredients are permitted on the land or animals. Finer than cashmere, smoother than silk, softer than cotton, stronger than mohair, warmer than goose down and synthetic fabrics, and breathes better than thermal knits.  The fibers do not have lanolin or other oils.  Luxuriously soft on your skin.  Hypoallergenic and naturally fire resistant and dust mite resistant.

Alpaca (Undyed) - The Natural Alpaca fiber comes in the whitest white, to the most intense black, including around twenty brown and gray tones. Therefore, undyed color combinations are very plentiful. By using undyed Natural Alpaca a step is made to decrease the amount of chemical runoff into the world’s water tables.

Angora - The hair of the Angora goat or the Angora rabbit. The clipped fiber from a living animal is also known as Angora mohair.  Scoured mohair appears smooth and white. It varies in fineness and is highly resilient, very strong and has high luster. Its value is determined by its luster and not its softness.  The Angora rabbit is indigenous to Asia Minor and Turkey. It is often blended and mixed with wool to lower the price of the finished.  Angora rabbit hair is long, very fine, light weight, extremely warm and fluffy. It has a tendency to shed and mat with time. According to the U.S. Federal Trade Commission, any apparel containing Angora rabbit hair must be labeled as "Angora rabbit hair" on the garment.

Appliqué - A cutout surface decoration that is sewn or embroidered to a larger piece of material.

Armure - Cotton, silk, wool, rayon, synthetics, and blends.  The weave can be plain, twill, or rib, background often has a small design either jacquard or dobby made with warp floats on surface giving a raised effect.  Design is often in two colors and raised. The name was derived from original fabric which was woven with a small interlaced design of chain armor and used for military equipment during the Crusades.  Often used in elegant evening gowns, draperies, or upholstery.

Art Linen – A linen woven with even threads that are especially good for embroidery. It is very easy to "draw" the yarns for drawn thread work. Comes bleached, or colored. Has a soft finish.  Has been use for needlework.

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B

Back Coating - Fabric treated with sizing on the back only to give added weight, strength and opacity.

Back Drape - A length of material attached either at the shoulder or the waist that flows over the back to floor length.  In some cases it is removable.

Back yoke - A fitted or shaped piece at the top of a skirt or at the shoulder of various garments.

Ball Gown - Characterized by a very full skirt that begins at the waist and continues to a formal length.  The skirt waist is seamed and can be of various styles.

Ballerina Neckline - This is a low neckline that usually occurs with strapless or spaghetti strapped dresses.

Bamboo - A natural, renewable resource that can be made into fabrics.  Bamboo grows very quickly and does not require fertilizers or pesticides.

Barathea – A broken ribbed weave from silk, rayon or acetate.  The fabric has granular texture achieved by the short broken ribs in the filling direction. It is a rich soft-looking, fine fabric.

Basket Weave - A variation of the plain weave construction, formed by treating two or more warp yarns and/or two or more filling yarns as one unit in the weaving process. Yarns in a basket weave are laid into the woven construction flat, and maintain a parallel relationship. Both balanced and unbalanced basket weave fabrics can be produced. Examples of basket weave construction includes monk cloth and oxford cloth.

Basque waist / V-waist - This dropped waist starts at or just below the natural waistline and dips in the center creating a "V" shape.

Bast Fiber - Strong, soft, woody fibers, such as flax, jute, hemp, and ramie, which are obtained from the inner bark in the stems of certain plants.

Bateau Neck / Boat Neck - A high, wide, straight neckline that runs straight across the front and back, meeting at the shoulders with the same depth in the front and back.

Batiste – A medium-weight, plain weave fabric. Generally made from cotton, but can also be made from rayon and wool.   Named after Jean Baptiste, a French linen weaver. Light weight, soft, semi-sheer fabric which resembles nainsook, but finer. It belongs to the lawn family; almost transparent. It is made of tightly twisted, combed yarns and mercerized finish. Sometimes it is printed or embroidered. In a heavier weight, it is used for foundation garments and linings in a plain, figured, striped, or flowered design. Considered similar to nainsook but finer and lighter in weight. Now usually made of 100% polyester distinguished by slubs in filling direction.

Bayadere – Silk in a crosswise rib (plain or twill weave).  Has brightly colored stripes in the filling direction. Often black warp. The color effects are usually startling or bizarre. Mostly produced in India. Name derived from the Bajadere dancing girl of India, dedicated from birth to a dancing life. The Bayadere costume includes the striped garment, a flimsy scarf or shawl, jeweled trousers, spangles, sequins, anklets. Used in blouses, dresses, and evening wear.

Beaded - This refers to any style of fabric that has beads embroidered into the design. Beading can be done at the time the lace is made or can be re-embroidered after the lace is made.

Bengaline - A fabric with a crosswise rib and warp faced made from silk, wool, rayon, synthetics and cotton, often in combination.  Bengaline was first made of silk in Bengal, India. Ribs are round and raised. Often has wool or cotton dilling in the ribs which doesn't show.  It is difficult to make bound buttonholes in it. Has a tendency to slip at the seams if too tightly fitted. Grosgrain and Petersham is bengaline cut to ribbon widths.

Besom Pockets - A pocket sewn inside the garment with access through a welted slit-type opening.

Bias Cut - Cut diagonally across the grain of a fabric.  Used to create garments that follow the body curves closely.  A bias cut is any direction in the fabric which does not exactly flow in the direction of the weft yarn (vertical yarns) or warp yarns (horizontal yarns) of a fabric.  A true bias makes an angle of 45 degrees across the length and width of a fabric.  Fabric cut on a bias has maximum stretch.

Bike Tards - A close-fitting, one-piece garment from the top of the torso to be hem of the shorts.

Birdseye - Cotton and Linen or blend of rayon staple and cotton, usually in a dobby weave with a smooth, clear finish and small diamond-shaped figures with a dot in the center of each.  The pattern suggests the eye of a bird.  It is very soft, light-weight, and absorbent.  Birdseye is woven with a loosely twisted filling to increase absorbency and launders well. No starch is applied because the absorption properties must be of the best. Material must be free from any foreign matter. It is also called "diaper cloth" and is used for that purpose as well as very good toweling. Often used as a summer dress fabric. 

Blanket Stitch - A closely spaced stitch that forms a line of closely spaced loops at the edge. It is used in embroidery for purely decorative purposes.

Blazer - A long-sleeved sports jacket with labels.

Bleaching - Necessary process to remove the natural and artificial impurities in fabrics to obtain clear whites for even dyeing and printing.  Bleaching with hydrogen peroxide is the most environmentally friendly way to whiten fabrics.  Hydrogen peroxide can help produce a white fabric but not a bright white fabric.

Blend - A term applied to a yarn or a fabric that is made up of more than one fiber. In blended yarns, two or more different types of staple fibers are twisted or spun together to form the yarn. Examples of a typical blended yarn or fabric is polyester/cotton.

Bolero Jacket - A loose, waist-length jacket open at the front.

Boot-Cut - Cut below the belly button and slightly flares from the knee to the ankle.

Boucle - A knit or woven fabric made from a rough, curly, knotted boucle yarn. The fabric has a looped, knotted surface and is often used in sportswear and coats.  Made from wool, but also in rayon, silk, cotton, linen, blends, and some hair fibers.  The name is French for "buckled" or "ringed". A drawn out or ringed, looped yarn is used to give it a kinky appearance at intervals.   Boucle yarns are usually in both the filling and the warp. The fabrics are usually springy to handle on account of the highly twisted yarns used to achieve the boucle effect. Often ravels easily.

Bourdon Stitching - A close, narrow row of decorative raised stitching such as a monogram, finished edge or accent.

Box-pleated - Two folds of fabric brought together to form a pleat.

Broadcloth – Can be manufactured from cotton and silk, and rayon which are very different than wool broadcloth.  A plain weave tightly woven fabric, characterized by a slight ridge effect in one direction, usually the filling. Most cotton broadcloths are made with a very fine crosswise rib weave.  In cotton it is made from either carded or combed yarns. The filling is heavier and has less twist. It is finer than poplin when made with a crosswise rib and it is lustrous and soft with a good texture. Thread count ranges from high quality 144 x 6 count down to 80 x 60. Has a smooth finish. May be bleached, dyed, or printed; also is often mercerized. Broadcloth tends to wear very well.  If it is not of a high quality or treated it wrinkles very badly. The finest quality is made from Egyptian or combed pima cotton - also sea island.  Uses include shirts, dresses, particularly the tailored type in plain colors, blouses, summer wear of all kinds.

Brocade - A heavy, exquisite, jacquard-type fabric with an all-over raised pattern or floral design, generally made from silk, rayon, and cotton in a Jacquard and dobby weave..  Cotton brocade often has the ground of cotton and the pattern of rayon and silk. Pattern is in low relief.  Rich, heavy, elaborate design effect. Sometimes with colored or metallic threads making the design usually against a satin weave background. This makes the figures stand out.  The figures in brocade are rather loose, while in damask the figure threads are actually bound into the material. The pattern may be satin on a twill ground or twill on a satin ground and is often reversible. The motifs may be of flowers, foliage, scrollwork, pastoral scenes, or other designs. The price range is wide.  Brocade is believed to come from the Latin name "brocade" which means to figure.   It is used in all types of evening wear, church vestments, interior furnishings, and state robes. 

Brocatelle - Originally supposed to be an imitation of Italian tooled leather.  Brocatelle, made from silk, rayon, cotton, and synthetics, has a satin or twill pattern on plain or satin ground.  It has a Jacquard weave on double or backed cloth.  It is recognized by a smooth raised figure of warp-effect, usually in a satin weave construction, on a filling effect background. True brocatelle is a double weave made of silk and linen warp and a silk and linen filling. Present-day materials may have changed from the 13^th and 14^th century fabrics, but they still have the embossed figure in the tight, compact woven warp-effect. While brocatelle is sometimes classed as a flat fabric, it shows patterns which stand out in "high relief" in a sort of blistered effect.

Broomstick - A skirt or dress that is characterized by numerous pleats and crinkled material.

Buckram – Made from cotton, linen, and synthetics in a plain, cheap, low-textured, loose weave that is heavily sized and stiff.  Also, two fabrics are glued together.   One is an open weave and the other much finer.  Buckram is also made in linen in a single fabric.  Buckram is also called crinoline book muslin or book binding.  Named from Bokhara in Southern Russia, where it was first made. It softens with heat and can be shaped while warm

Burn-out - A brocade-like pattern effect created on the fabric through the application of a chemical, instead of color, during the burn-out printing process. (Sulfuric acid, mixed into a colorless print paste, is the most common chemical used.) Many simulated eyelet effects can be created using this method. In these instances, the chemical destroys the fiber and creates a hole in the fabric in a specific design, where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric. The fabric is then over-printed with a simulated embroidery stitch to create the eyelet effect. However, burn-out effects can also be created on velvets made of blended fibers, in which the ground fabric is of one fiber like a polyester, and the pile may be of a cellulosic fiber like rayon or acetate. In this case, when the chemical is printed in a certain pattern, it destroys the pile in those areas where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric, but leave the ground fabric unharmed.

Butcher Linen – Plain weave.  It was originally made with linen but is now created with cotton or manufactured fibers. It launders well, sheds dirt, and is exceptionally durable.

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C

Calendering - A process for finishing fabrics in which such special effects as high luster, glazing, embossing, and moiré are produced.

Calico – Cotton fabric with a low-count, plain weave.  It originated in Calcutta, India, and is one of the oldest cottons.   Calico is rather coarse and light in weight.  The pattern is printed on one side by discharge or resist printing so it generally isn’t color fast.  It is often sized for crispness but washes out and requires starch each time. Designs are often geometric in shape, but originally elaborate designs of birds, trees, and flowers.  Calico is usually inexpensive and similar to percale.  Very little true calico is on the market to-day, but the designs are still in use on other fabrics and sold as "calico print". 

Cambric - A fine, thin, white linen or cotton fabric that is soft, closely woven, and light and has been treated to give it a slight gloss.  It is either bleached or piece dyed and is highly mercerized and lint free. It is calendered on the right side with a slight gloss.  Lower qualities have a smooth bright finish. It is similar to batiste but is stiffer and with fewer slubs.   Cambric launders very well, has good body, and sews and finishes well.  It was originally made in Cambria, France of linen and used for Church embroidery, table linens, handkerchiefs, underwear, slips, nightgowns, children's dresses, aprons, shirts and blouses. Normally used for pillow and duvet shells.

Camisole - A short, sleeveless garment for women.

Camocas – Another largely historic fabric that was popular in the 14th and 15th centuries. It was a very beautiful fabric which was often stripped with gold or silver. It had a satin base and was diapered like fine linen.

Camp Pockets - Pockets that are sewn to the outside of the garment, usually squared off and characterized by seaming.

Candlewick Fabric - Made from cotton and sometimes wool.  An unbleached muslin bed sheeting (also called Kraft muslin) used as a base fabric on which a chenille effect is formed by application of candlewick (heavy plied yarn) loops, which are then cut to give the fuzzy effect and cut yarn appearance of true chenille yarn.  True chenille is a cotton, wool, silk, or rayon yarn which has a pile protruding all around at slight angles and stimulates a caterpillar. Chenille is the French word for caterpillar.  Used in bedspreads, drapes, housecoats, beach wear.

Canton Flannel – made from cotton with a four harness warp-faced twill weave.  The filling yarn is a very loosely twisted and soft and later brushed to produce a soft nap on the back, the warp is medium in size. The face is twill and the fabric is heavy, warm, strong and absorbent. Named for Canton, China where it was first made. Comes bleached, unbleached, dyed, and some is printed.  Used in interlinings, sleeping garments, linings, coverings, work gloves.

Canvas - A strong, durable, closely woven cotton fabric.

Cap Sleeve - A small, short sleeve which sits on the shoulder, either forming a stiff cap or falling on to the arm to provide minimal coverage.

Capri Pants - Fairly straight-cut pants, tapered to the mid-calf.

Cardigan Jacket - A usually collarless sweater or jacket that opens the full length of the center front.

Carding - A process of cleaning fibers by separating and laying them parallel to each other.

Cargo - Characterized by sporting a large pocket usually with a flap and a pleat.

Carpenter pants / shorts - Five-pocket pants characterized by a "hammer holder," a stretch of material connecting the outside seam to the back pocket.

Cashmere (Kashmir) - A luxury fiber obtained from the soft, fleecy undergrowth of the Kashmir goat of Tibet, Mongolia, China, Iran, Iraq, and India.  Most commonly used in sweaters, shawls, suits, coats, and dresses.  The fiber is cylindrical, soft and silken and is more like wool than any other hair fiber. Has a very soft silky finish and is very light in weight. It doesn't stand up to hard wear because of its extremely soft downy finish. The natural fiber is white, black, brown or gray but can be died a variety of shades. It comes in different weights.

Cathedral Train - Also known as a monarch train.  A cascading train extending six to eight feet behind the gown.  Often used on wedding dresses.

Cellulose - A material derived from the cell walls of certain plants such as hemp, flax, bamboo and also trees.  Cellulose is used in the production of many vegetable fibers, as well as being the major raw material component used in the production of the manufactured fibers of acetate, rayon, triacetate, and lyocell.

Chambray - A plain woven fabric that can be made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers, but is most commonly cotton. It incorporates a colored warp (often blue) and white filling yarns.   Typically has a plain weave or dobby designs on a plain-weave ground and is made with a dyed warp and a white or unbleached filling.  Both carded and combed yarns used. Has a white selvedge. Some chambray is woven with alternating white and colored warp.  Naturally has a "faded" look and very soft coloring.  Some is made with stripes, checks or embroidered. Smooth, strong, closely woven, soft and has a slight luster.  It wears well, is easy to sew, and launders well. It wrinkles easily.  Chambray riginated in Cobrai, France, where it was first made for sunbonnets and is used for children's wear, dresses, shirts and blouses, aprons, all kinds of sportswear.

Chamois Cloth – A plain woven cotton fabric that is napped, sheared, and dyed to simulate chamois leather. It is stiffer than kasha and thicker, softer and more durable than flannelette. Must be designated as "cotton chamoise-color cloth".

Chamoisette – A fine, firmly knit fabric made from cotton and sometimes rayon and nylon in a knitted, double knit construction.  It has a very short soft nap and wears well. Nylon chamoisette is more often called "glove silk" and often used in gloves.

Chantilly lace - This lace has a net background, and the pattern is created by embroidering with thread and ribbon to create floral designs. The pattern has areas of design that are very dense, and the pattern is often outlined with heavier cords or threads.

Chapel Train - The most popular of all train lengths.  It flows from three to four feet behind the gown.

Charmeuse - A lightweight, drapey fabric with is woven with a satin weave where the warp threads cross over three or more of the backing weft threads.  This causes the front side to have a shiny, satiny finish and the back side to be more dull.  Finer quality charmeuse is made of silk and rayon or polyester are used in lesser quality charmeuse. Originated as a French lightweight silk that was recognized for it's supreme luster and drapability. It is found in a variety of solids and prints.

Cheesecloth – Plain woven cotton fabric originally used as a wrapping material for pressing cheese. It is loosely woven, thin, light in weight, open in construction, and soft. Carded yarns are always used. It is also called gauze weave.  When an applied finish is added, it is called buckram, crinoline, or bunting.

Chemise / Skimmer - Simply a straight unbelted dress with varying sleeves and length.

Chenille - Soft, fuzzy yarns stand out around a velvety cord on this fabric, whose name comes from the French word for caterpillar and the fabric looks "hairy."   Generally made from cotton but can also be made from other fibrics.  Filling of chenille yarns (has a pile protruding all around at right angles). Do not confuse with tufted effects obtained without the use of true Chenille filling.

Cheviot – Originally made of wool in a twill weave from the Cheviot sheep but now it is also made of blends, spun synthetics, crossbred and reused wools.  It is very rugged with a harsh, uneven surface that does not hold a crease and sags with wear. It resembles serge but is much more rugged and coarse and will not shine because of the rough surface.  Cheviot is often sold as a homespun but true homespun has a plain weave and very heavy.  Cheviot is also sold as a tweed.

Chinchilla – Usually made from wool but can also be made in cotton, and some manmade and synthetics.  It has a sateen or twill construction with extra fillings for long floats.  Thankfully, it does not resemble true chinchilla fur but has small nubs on the surface of the fabric which are made by the chinchilla machine. It attacks the face and causes the long floats to be worked into nubs and balls. Cotton warp is often used because it cannot show from either side.  Chinchilla takes its name from Chinchilla Spain where it was invented,

Chiffon - A plain, woven, lightweight, extremely sheer, transparent, airy, and soft silk fabric, containing very fine, highly twisted filament yarns. The fabric, used mainly in evening dresses and scarves, can also be made from rayon and other manufactured fibers.  The tightly twisted yarns could be either in the filling or the warp or both. It is very strong, despite filmy look. Wears very well. It is very difficult to handle when sewing and it is best to baste the pieces over tissue to make it easier. It has slightly bumpy look. It is best suited to shirring, draping, gathering, tucking, etc., because it is so limp.  Chiffon is French for "rag".

China Silk - Originally hand woven in China of silk from the Bonabyx mori.  China silk is very soft and extremely lightweight but fairly strong. Irregularities of threads caused by the extreme lightness and softness are characteristic of the fabric.

Chinchilla – A cotton, wool, and even synthetic fabric of a sateen or twill construction with extra fillings for long floats.  Thankfully, it does not resemble true chinchilla fur. It has small nubs on the surface of the fabric which are made by the chinchilla machine. It attacks the face and causes the long floats to be worked into nubs and balls. Cotton warp is often used because it cannot show from either side. It is made in medium and heavy weights and is a very warm and cozy fabric. It takes its name from Chinchilla Spain where it was invented.

Chino – A cotton fabric of a left-handed twill.  Combined two-ply warp and filling. Has a sheen that remains. Fabric was purchased in China (thus the name) by the U.S. Army for uniforms. Originally used for army cloth in England many years before and dyed olive-drab. Fabric is mercerized and sanforized. Washes and wears extremely well with a minimum of care.  Now you know the history of the popular chino slacks.

Chintz - A usually glazed printed cotton fabric with bright figures, large flower designs, birds and other designs. It also comes in plain colors. Chintz can use several types of glaze. This glazed cotton is often printed with figures and large flower designs. The wax and starch glaze produced by friction or glazing calendars will wash out. The resin glaze finish will not wash out and withstand dry cleaning. Also comes semi-glazed. Unglazed chintz is called cretonne.  It is named after the Indian word "Chint" meaning "broad, gaudily printed fabric". Used widely in upholstery fabric.

Chite - Painted linens that originated in Chitta (India) in the 17^th century.

Column skirt / straight skirt - Also referred to as a pencil skirt, this skirt is a straight line with no flare or fullness at the hem or waistline.

Combing - A process for removing short fibers. The process enables cotton to be spun into very fine, lustrous yarns for high quality fabrics.

Comfort Stretch - The term given to the freedom of movement experienced in the wearing of a garment that contains spandex, or has stretch engineered into a yarn through mechanical stretch construction.

Composite Fabric – In performance garments, an engineered fabric made from two or more components. One component is often a strong fiber such as fiberglass, Kevlar®, or carbon fiber that gives the material its tensile strength, while another component (often called a matrix) is often a resin, such as polyester or epoxy that binds the fibers together.

Compression Fabric – In performance garments, high tenacity stretch fabric which, when in a close fitting garment, provides muscles with a firm compression fit that lessons vibrations, reduces fatigue, and keeps muscles energized. The fabric is usually made in a knit construction, using a series of gradient fibers with an open knit inner surface to create a moisture transfer environment.

Compression Stretch - The name given to the expansive stretch that is created by the spandex fibers used in the development of a compression fabric for performance garments.

Convertible Collar - A rolled collar that can be worn open or closed.  Sewn directly to the neckline.

Cool Colors  Blue, violet and green are cool or light colors.  They are reducing in nature, as seen by the eye they move away from the object thereby increasing its size.  Cool colors have a calm and restful effect.

Corduroy – Typically made of cotton but can be made of rayon and other textiles.  It has a filling pile with a plain or twill back and is made with an extra filling yarn. Corduroy is in the velvet family of fabrics and it has narrow medium and wide wales, also thick and thin or checkerboard patterns. Wales have different widths and depths. Corduroy has to be cut all one way with pile running up. Most of it is washable, wears very well, and has a soft luster.

Corset top / boned bodice - a form-fitting, usually strapless bodice with boning and either laces or snap closures, styled in the fashion of the ladies undergarment of the same name.

Cotton - A unicellular, natural fiber that grows in the seed pod of the cotton plant. Fibers are typically 1/2 inch to 2 inches long. The longest staple fibers, longer than 1-1/2 inch, including the Pima and Egyptian varieties, produce the highest quality cotton fabrics.  It is one of the world's major textile fibers.  There are four main types of cotton: American Upland, Egyptian, Sea Island and Asiatic. The flowers from which these different types of cotton are obtained vary in color and texture, thus providing each type of cotton with varying characteristics. Cotton, in general, is very elastic. It can withstand high temperatures, is very washable and is very susceptible to dyes.

Cotton (Color grown) - Cotton plants that are specifically bred to take advantage of their natural coloring in shades of white, brown and green.  Fabrics are then created that use the natural coloring and are completely free of dyes.  Color grown cotton can be grown in beautiful natural colors such as honey, sage, and mocha.  Ancient Indians in South America were known to have used color grown cotton. In the past decade, these color grown cotton fibers have become available once again for apparel manufacturing.  With the limitations of lower yields and shorter, weaker fibers, color-grown cotton varieties have had to go through an extensive breeding program to improve their yield, fiber quality, color intensity and color palette.  Color grown fabrics may contain certain natural variations in color, light fastness and shrinkage.

Cotton (Green) - A marketing term referring to cotton that is unbleached and undyed but grown using toxic pesticides. Green cotton has not been subjected to the harsh, toxic chemicals used during the processing period.  Because green cotton has been grown using toxic insecticides, herbicides and fertilizers, it is still a contributor to the environmental damage and the damage done to the health of the farm workers and those that live in the nearby areas.

Cotton (Organic) - Cotton grown without any harmful pesticides, herbicides or artificial fertilizers using biologically based and sustainable growing methods such as crop rotation rather than with highly synthetic and destructive fertilizers.  Organic cotton is grown using biologically based growing methods rather than toxic synthetic fertilizers, soil additives or defoliants. It is also free of formaldehyde finishes. Organic Cotton wears well and is extremely breathable, unlike synthetics that pill, emit static electricity, prematurely age, and trap perspiration. Cotton is commonly portrayed as natural, yet conventional cotton is cultivated in a highly toxic process, which contaminates groundwater and ultimately drinking water and poisons the food chain. While it takes approximately one pound of chemicals to grow three pounds of conventional cotton, organic cotton is grown chemical free.

Cottagora - An extremely soft and environmentally sound material made from a combination of Angora rabbit hair and organic cotton. Unlike traditional Angora, cottagora can be machine washed and dried. It is also the warmest natural fiber available and more durable than any other elite wool. This is because the Angora rabbit itself has three to four times as many hairs per weight unit as sheep's wool. Cottagora is also a breathable fabric, allowing the body to maintain its natural temperature. It is ideal for travel, as it is both versatile and wrinkle free.

Cowl Neck - A neckline featuring a piece of material attached to a garment at the neck, which may be used as a hood or draped loosely in a swag from shoulder to shoulder at the front neckline or back.

Crash – A linen that is very rugged and substantial in feel. Comes in white or natural shades or could be dyed, printed, striped, or checked. The yarn is strong, irregular in diameter but smooth. Has a fairly good texture.

Crepe - Used to describe all kinds of fabrics--wool, cotton, silk, rayon, synthetics and blends-that have a crinkle, crimped or grained surface.  Made from worsted cotton, wool, silk, man-made synthetics.  Has a crinkled, puckered surface or soft mossy finish. All crepes have a pebbled, rough feel and appearance due to the yarns having a high twist in the filling or the warp or both. Crepe comes in different weights and degrees of sheerness. Dull with a harsh dry feel. Woolen crepes are softer than worsted. If it is fine, it drapes well.  Crepe has very good wearing qualities and a slimming effect in garments.  Most crepes launder well with care.

Crepe back satin - A satin fabric in which highly-twisted yarns are used in the filling direction. The floating yarns are made with low twist and may be of either high or low luster. If the crepe effect is the right side of the fabric, the fabric is called satin-back crepe.  Satin weave on the face and a crepe effect on the back obtained with twisted crepe yarns in the filling - 2 or 3 times as many ends as picks per inch. It is a soft fabric which is reversible. It is usually piece dyed. Very interesting effects can be obtained in a garment by using both sides in different parts of the garment, such as using the crepe side for the body and trim or binding with the satin part up.

Crepe de Chine - Silk warp and crepe twist silk filling with more ends than picks per inch. Has a soft hand, considerable luster, launders well, and is fairly sheer.  Made of raw silk or rayon, it is easy to manipulate and handle and very long wearing.  Could be piece dyed or printed. Has a slight rippled texture. Heavy crepe de chine is called "Canton crepe" which is slightly ribbed and now mostly made in rayon.

Crepe (Georgette Crepe) - Lightweight, sheer fabric that is more stiff and with body giving an exellent wear. Has a dull, crinkled surface achieved by alternating S and Z yarns in a high twist in both warp and filling directions. Georgette has a harder, duller, more crinkled feel and appearance than crepe de chine.

Crepe (Flat Crepe) - Also called French Crepe or Lingerie Crepe but not exactly the same. It is the flattest of all the crepes with only a very slight pebbled or crepe effect hard twist alternating 25 x 22 in filling; warp has ordinary twist. It is very soft and pliable, which makes it good for draping. It is very light weight - 2 times as many ends as picks. Most of it launders well and is often used in accessories, blouses, dress goods, negligees, pajamas and other pieces of lingerie and linings.

Crepe (Moss Crepe or Sand Crepe) - Has a fine moss effect created by plain weave or small Dobby. Made with a spun-rayon warp and a filament rayon filling. The two-ply warp yarn is very coarse and bulkier than the filling. Mostly made in rayon and synthetics but some in silk.

Crepon - Crepe effect appears in direction of the warp and achieved by alternate S and Z, or slack, tension, or different degrees of twist.  Originally a wool crepe but now made of silk and rayon. It is much stouter and more rugged than the average crepe. Has a wavy texture with the "waves" running in a lengthwise direction. Mostly used for prints in dresses and ensembles.

Crettone – Made from cotton, linen, rayon in a plain or twill weave.  Quality and price vary a great deal. The warp counts are finer than the filling counts which are spun rather loose. Strong substantial and gives good wear. Printed cretonne often has very bright colors and patterns. The fabric has no luster (when glazed, it is called chintz). Some are warp printed and if they are, they are usually completely reversible. Designs run from the conservative to very wild and often completely cover the surface.

Crew Neck - A round neck with ribbed banding that fits close to the base of the neck.

Crinkled - Forming many short bends or ripples.

Crinoline - A very loosely woven fiber with high rigidity. It is smooth, stiff, and has excellent strength. It's comes in a variety of shades from white to black.

Crocheted - Loose, open knit made by looping thread with a hooked needle. Used for light, summer sweaters.

Cropped top / jacket - Hem is cut just above the waist.

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D

Damask - Made from linen, silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, wool, worsteds and is woven on a Jacquard loom that has an alternating satin and matte texure.  Originally made of silk, that came to us from China via Damascus. In the XIII Century, Marco Polo gave an interesting tale about it. It is one of the oldest and most popular cloths to be found today. Very elaborate designs are possible. Cloth is beetled, calendared and the better qualities are gross-bleached.  It is very durable, reversible fabric that sheds dirt.  In Damask fabric, the firmer the texture, the better the quality.  It launders well and holds a high luster - particularly in linen.  The quality of Damask depends on the yarn used and the thread count. - If the same quality and thread count are used, single is better than double because the shorter floats are more serviceable and the yarns hold more firmly. Double damask with less than 180 thread count is inappropriate for clothing.  LotusOrganics.com has some excellent pajamas made from Damask manufactured by Fisher-Henney.

Denier - A system of measuring the weight of a continuous filament fiber. In the United States, this measurement is used to number all manufactured fibers (both filament and staple), and silk, but excludes glass fiber. The lower the number, the finer the fiber; the higher the number, the heavier the fiber. Numerically, a denier is the equivalent to the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of continuous filament fiber.

Denim - True denim is a twill-weave, cotton-like fabric made with different colored yarns in the warp and the weft. Due to the twill construction, one color predominates on the fabric surface.  Name derived from French "serge de Nimes".  Long wearing, it resists snags and tears. Comes in heavy and lighter weights.

Diamond Neck - A diamond-shaped cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.

Dimity – Cotton fabric made of combed yarn that comes in a plain weave with a crosswise or lengthwise spaced rib or crossbar effect. A thin sheer with corded spaced stripes that could be single, double or triple grouping.  Has a crisp texture which remains fairly well after washing.  It is easy to sew and manipulate and launders well.  Dimity will crease unless treated to become crease-resistant. May be bleached, dyed, or printed and often printed with a small rose-bud design. It is mercerized and has a soft luster.

Dobby - Woven on a dobby loom, this fabric can be made with a dot or geometric design. A decorative weave, characterized by small figures, usually geometric, that are woven into the fabric structure. Dobbies may be of any weight or compactness, with yarns ranging from very fine to coarse and fluffy. Standard dobby fabrics are usually flat and relatively fine or sheer. However, some heavyweight dobby fabrics are available for home furnishings and for heavy apparel.

Doeskin – Made from wool and also rayon in a harness satin weave or a twill weave that is napped on one side.  Doeskin has a very smooth, lustrous surface made with a slight short nap and compact weave to look like fine leather.  The weave is not visible because of napping.  Very high quality wool is used.  Doeskin needs care in handling. Generally applied to a type of fabric finish in which a low nap is brushed in one direction to create a soft suede-like hand on the fabric surface. End-uses include billiard table surfaces and men's' sportswear.

Dolman Sleeve - Cut as an extension of the bodice, the dolman sleeve is designed without a socket for the shoulder, creating a deep, wide armhole that reaches from the waist to a narrowed wrist.  Also called a batwing sleeve.

Domett Flannel – A cotton fabric in a plain or twill.  Can also be spelled domet. Generally made in white. Has a longer nap than on flannelette. Soft filling yarns of medium or light weight are used to obtain the nap. The term domett is interchangeable with "outing flannel" but it is only made in a plain weave. Both are soft and fleecy and won't irritate the skin. Any sizing or starching must be removed before using. Outing flannel is also piece-dyed and some printed and produced in a spun rayon also.

Donegal Tweed – A medium to heavy of plain or twill weave fabric in which colorful yarn slubs are woven into the fabric. Made from wool but can also be made from rayons and cottons.  It is mostly made from a plain weave but can also be made in twill.  Donegal was originally a homespun woven by the peasants in Donegal, Ireland and is a rough and ready fabric that stands much hard wear. End-uses include winter coats and suits. Yarns are coarse with thick slubs and colored nubs. Now made in other places as well - particularly England.

Dotted Swiss – A lightweight, sheer cotton or cotton blend fabric with a plain weave with a small dot flock-like pattern either printed on the surface of the fabric, or woven into the fabric. Dots could be a single color or multicolored. Placed regularly or irregularly on a semi-sheer usually crisp fabric which may or may not be permanent. First made on hand looms in Switzerland and some still is. It is made in 32" widths. The lappet is the most permanent. When hand woven with a swivel attachment the dots are tied in by hand on the back of the cloth. End-uses for this fabric include blouses, dresses, baby clothes, and curtains.

Double-Breasted - Having one-half of the front lapped over the other.  Usually has a double row of buttons and a single row of buttonholes.

Double Cloth - A fabric construction, in which two fabrics are woven on the loom at the same time, one on top of the other. In the weaving process, the two layers of woven fabric are held together using binder threads. The woven patterns in each layer of fabric can be similar or completely different.

Doubleknit - A woven fabric construction made by interlacing two or more sets of warp yarns with two or more sets of filling yarns. A weft knit fabric in which two layers of loops are formed that cannot be separated. Made from cotton, wool, worsted, silk, rayon, and synthetics with a circular or flat-needle bar type.  A two faced cloth, either face may be utilized as the right side. The fabric originated in Milan and Florence. Can be stabilized for shrinkage control and dry cleans satisfactorily. A double knit machine, which has two complete sets of needles, is required for this construction.

Double-Tee Top - A layered look with one T-shirt over another.

Double Weave - The most common double weave fabrics are made using a total of either four or five sets of yarns.

Doupion, Douppioni - Silk yarns made from the cocoon of two ilk worms that have nested together. In spinning, the double strand is not separated so the yarn is uneven and irregular with a large diameter in places.  The fabric is of silk made in a plain weave but is very.  It is imitated in rayon and some synthetics, and one such fabric is called "Cupioni". Dupion yarns also used in shantung, pongee. It tailors very well.

Draped Bodice - An extra piece of material is draped over the bustline.

Drill – Cotton twill. Left-hand twill.   It has closer, flatter wales that ganardine. Medium weight and course yarns are used. Also made in some other weights. Some left in the gray but can be bleached or dyed. When dyed a khaki color, drill is also called "khaki".

Dropped Shoulders - Characterized by the shoulder / sleeve seam falling off the shoulder.

Dropped Waist / Low Waist - A waistline that is sewn below the body's natural waistline.

Duck - A tightly woven, heavy, plain-weave, bottom-weight fabric with a hard, durable finish. The fabric is usually made of cotton, and is widely used in men's and women's slacks, and children's playclothes.

Dupioni - Similar to shantung, this textured fabric is recognized by irregular-sized, thick fibers woven into the base fabric. Fibers that create the texture, are thicker and heavier than those used in shantung.

Durability - The ability of a fabric to resist wear through continual use.

Durable Press - A treatment applied to the fabric in the finishing process in which it maintains a smooth attractive appearance, resists wrinkling, and retains creases or pleats during laundering.

Duvetyn(e) – A  good quality wool. If it is made in cotton, it is usually called suede cloth.  Duvetyn has a close satin weave that is brushed, singed, and sheared to conceal the weave.  It has a smooth plush appearance resembling a compact velvet and is similar to wool broadcloth but heavier and thicker. Has a good draping quality, soft and wears well if looked after. Spots easily and care must be taken when handling it. Back is often slightly napped also. Name derived from the French word "duvet" meaning "down".

Dyes (Fiber Reactive) -   The molecules of fiber reactive dyes actually react and bond to the fiber molecules.  These dyes are the best quality and most ecologically sound synthetic dyes available.  They contain no heavy metals or other known toxic substances.  The colors are brighter, richer, and exhibit superior colorfast properties.  Very little residual dye comes out in the waste water.  Significantly more costly than using conventional direct dyes but the quality and ecological benefits are far superior.

Dyes (Low Impact) - Dyes that are more environmentally friendly than conventional dyes because they contain no metals, low salt, AZO & dioxazines compound free.  Called "Low Impact" because they use less water to disperse the dye, so less dye is used and waste water is carefully filtered to remove as many of the dye particles as possible. Low impact dyes require significantly less water for the dyeing process so there is much less polluted runoff than from the conventional dye process.  Organic cotton and most other fabrics can be successfully colored with all natural or fiber-reactive low impact dyes. They are the highest quality, most ecologically friendly dyes available, producing colors that are both richer and brighter than conventional dyeing practices. These dyes reduce water and electricity consumption and discharge 60% less toxic runoff into the waste stream. They promote healthy ecosystems by using fewer resources and less energy while providentially allowing greater adherence of the dye to the garment.

Dyes (Natural) - Pigments are derived from organic materials such as vegetables, berries, bugs, clay, indigo, and other plant extracts to dye fabric.  The weakness of natural dyes has been that many natural dyes are not color-fast and wash out of the garments quickly.  Clay dyes are some of the best in retaining their color across repeated washings.

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E

Eco Fashion - The term has been coined to refer to fashionable and stylish clothing that has been manufactured using environmentally- friendly processes under Free Trade conditions.  Eco fashion clothing can use recycled clothing and even recycled materials such as eco-fleeced produced from recycled  plastic soda bottles.  Eco fashion is not necessarily made from organic fibers and is not necessarily healthy for people with chemical sensitivities.

Eco-fleece - A nubby, soft fabric made from recycled soda bottles. Every time you purchase something from eco-fleece you are contributing to saving another piece of the earth, which would otherwise be used as landfill.  Of course, you are also wearing plastic from old soda bottles.

Eco Wool – Sheared from free range roaming sheep that have not been subjected to toxic flea dipping, and have not been treated with chemicals, dyes, or bleaches.  Eco wool comes in natural tones of white, grey and black.

Elasticity - The ability of a fiber or fabric to return to its original length, shape, or size immediately after the removal of stress/tension.

Elastin - A protein that is similar to collagen and is the chief constituent of elastic fibers.

Embossing - A pressure process using engraved rollers and heat application to produce raised or relief patterns on the surface of the fab