We Still Didn’t Drink All The Vino: Mai Tai Tom’s 2018 Return To Italy
CHAPTER FIFTEEN – TO EVERYTHING Turin, TURIN, TURIN
DAY FOURTEEN: Open This Palace!, Driving My Passengers Crazy, Not Your Average Hunting Lodge, Going Stag, Are You Sure I Can Fit In Here, Terrific Turin, Lots Of Spokes People, Playing The Palace, Were You In Law & Order? and The Classy Maître D
Our wonderful stay at Rocche Costamagna was coming to a close, but not before a delicious last breakfast of fresh pastries, croissants, fruit, hardboiled eggs and a lot more. It’s hard to believe we could eat as much as we did. We bid arrivederci to Greg and Gloria as they were headed to Milan and then home.
As we drove down the hill from La Morra, we stopped at Bovio to drop off the umbrellas the waiter had given us the previous night. I looked to see if they had any leftover tagliolini ai 40 tuorli con tartufo bianco, but alas they were not open yet.
Our journey this day would take us to Turin, however we had a couple of stops planned along the way. We arrived at our first stop, the town of Racconigi, around 9:30 and attempted to find parking for the Royal Palace of Racconigi, one of the Residences of the Royal House of Savoy. It is included by UNESCO on its World Heritage Sites list. Finding parking was a slight challenge, but not nearly as much of a challenge to actually visit the palace, which “opened” at 9 a.m.
We found one entrance and walked inside. The woman said that the only way to visit was with a guided tour. “Ok, when’s the tour?” She replied it would be at noon, and we could get tickets at the bookstore at the other end of the palace. That seemed odd … the palace opens at 9 a.m, but the tours don’t start until a few hours later. We walked to the bookstore, and sure enough we couldn’t enter until noon.
No offense to the town of Racconigi, but we didn’t feel like spending 2 1/2 hours waiting for the palace tour, plus this wasn’t the only Savoy palace on our list, so we did what this group was really good at … walking through town and visiting another church, Chiesa Parrocchiale di San Giovanni Battista.
You gotta do what you gotta do, and I wasn’t about to leave Racconigi without seeing something. The 13th-century church with a Baroque interior was reconstructed in the 18th century and serves as Racconigi’s cathedral.
The dome and frescoes are courtesy (well, I’m sure he was paid) of Antonio Pozzo.
Having seen so many churches and with a lot still on our day’s agenda, we quickly toured the church and scurried back to the car.
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It was an easy 40-minute drive to our next destination, Palazzina di caccia di Stupinigi.
Once again, the Fearsome Foursome would be parking impaired. We figured there had to be nearby parking since this was such a tourist attraction, so we drove to the right of this gigantic Savoy palace that was designed as a Royal Hunting Lodge by the order of Victor Amadeus II of Savoy, who served as the Duke of Savoy from 1675 – 1730.
Not knowing there would be motorized cars nearly four centuries later, the Duke apparently forgot to construct a parking lot. Soon we were heading away from Stupinigi into a forested area. Having years of experience driving the wrong way in many European countries, I have become quite adept at making illegal U-Turns. I deftly made a quick one as my passengers were tossed about like the crew of the Minnow on their three hour tour to Gilligan’s Island. I swear I heard Tracy say, “Tom that was a Stupinigi move.” I looked in the back seat and the Professor and Mary were none too pleased either. It’s tough being the Skipper.
Soon we were back where we started this parking fiasco and I sadly navigated our car in front of a little restaurant less than two blocks from the palace. We walked to the ticket office located next to the huge building with a giant stag on top.
Thanks to someone on Fodors, I had read the “Torino+Piemonte Card” would be a good investment. That person was correct. The 3-day (72 hours) card costs €42 and covered many of the palaces and museums we visited. I forgot exactly how much it saved us, buy it was fairly substantial.
Palazzina di caccia di Stupinigi’s construction began in 1729 and was witness not only to the Savoys, but also other Italia monarchs (kings not butterflies). It even became a country home for Napoleon at one time. The House of Savoy, a royal family that goes way back to the 11th century and who also ruled Sicily for a short time in the early 18th century, utilized this lodge/palace not only for hunting parties, but also baptismal feasts, weddings and other gala occasions.
We entered, and after my pathetic driving display, Tracy said I should go stag here. I replied, “Thanks deer.” This one was actually the original that used to adorn the roof. (I thought the only deer allowed on a roof were reindeer.)
Here are some of the highlights (not necessarily in exact order, but close, I believe).
Two rooms made up the Pre Library and Library. The carved wood is mostly in blue and gold meaning the artist was most likely a UCLA fan.
We walked into an elliptical (and stunning … well the whole place is stunning) room called the Central Hall.
The room includes a chandelier that dates back to 1773. The ceiling also displays beautiful frescoes including “The Triumph of Diana.”
St. Ubertus Chapel and Antechapel have lots of beautiful frescoes and the painting of The Miracle of St. Ubertus. They were thoroughly restored in 2013 and 2014.
The Queen’s apartment has two famous frescoes; the Sacrifice of St. Iphigenia (left) and Diana hanging out with some nymphs on the riverbank. Both were created in 1733.
Where there’s a Queen, there’s a King. The King’s Apartment features Stories of Diana frescoes and, as they said, “splendid furnishings.”
We followed the Ceremonial Path, into the Anteroom, where I was surprised not to find anyone playing poker. We upped the ante and moved on.
The Living Room …
… and the Bedroom (which was originally conceived as a dining room) … showed their colors.
I wanted to take this piece of furniture with me.
Flowers and birds highlight the Cabinet with Walls of Silk with Flower Decorations.
We passed through a former music room, with its walls now decorated with fake architecture …
… a room highlighting Chinese life scenes.
… and eventually walked through a lovely room that led to the bathroom, complete with an interesting tub, which meant we could now make a clean getaway..
Our tour was at an end.
Located just 20 minutes from the center of Turin, Palazzina di caccia di Stupinigi was a great stop.
The area around the hunting lodge contained some interesting architecture.
We called the host at our Turin b&b and told her we were on our way, and she said she’d meet us outside the property.
Our home for the next few nights would be Il Gioiellino (Corso Vittorio Emanuele II). We somehow navigated the busy streets of Torino inflicting no damage to the population. Arriving at the b&b, I realized my driving “skills” would now be seriously challenged. We were on a small, one-lane road adjacent to the main road (with a median in between), and as cars lined up behind me, I had to carefully negotiate some hairpin turns to avoid hitting delivery trucks (and deliverymen) who had virtually blocked the entrance to the b&b loading area. Somehow I missed the trucks and the narrow entryway, and our wives unloaded the car, so Kim and I could find a nearby parking lot, which we eventually reached safely.
Our rooms were on the third floor (thankfully there was a lift for the knee-challenged). Both rooms were very pleasant with a shared area with lots of water that we desperately needed. Hydrate! Our very nice host Federika gave us the lay of the land. She said most of the big-ticket sites were within 20 – 25 minute walk and there was also a taxi stand close by. We also gave her the time we would meet in the breakfast room the following morning.
Speaking of eating, after a quick lunch, we walked into Turin. This car reminded me of those five poor guys in Bologna with their tiny rental mobile (although not this small).
Not far from our lodging, we ducked down a street to a restaurant our b&b host had recommended. Although closed at the moment, its front door was slightly ajar. We entered and were met by a dapper gentleman, and inquired if they had reservations for that evening, and we told him who recommended his restaurant. He said, “Ah, Federika. We can get you in.” As we walked away I started thinking he really looked like someone famous, but I couldn’t get my finger on it. In a short distance we came upon someone even more tired than we were. Get your naps when and where you can.
