Here are all the details about my summer trip to Paris this past July! Including flight and Airbnb prices, how to get ready for a trip to Paris, a packing list, how to get around, etiquette to keep in mind, links to other informative articles, plus my entire week-long itinerary with pictures! As experienced by an anxious woman traveling alone.

I don’t travel often because I don’t have the mental stamina (or money) to jetset multiple times a year. This was my second time leaving the United States. After being in Japan for two weeks last year, I caught the travel bug! My itinerary was only 15 pages this time around (as opposed to my 27-page itinerary for Japan). I did a ton of research and I taught myself beginner French months in advance (#overprepared). It paid off.

I should note that I skipped a lot of the major tourist attractions (Eiffel Tower, Louvre, Musee D’Orsay, Arc de Triomphe, Versailles, Disneyland) in favor of experiencing fashion and food. Along with visiting Paris, I took a day trip to London - more on that at the end. 

And I have to be honest - Paris was not nearly as fun as my trip to Japan. It was fine, but overrated, in my opinion. It could have been the language barrier, time of year, cultural differences…I don’t know. Especially the fashion culture - SO elitist! But London was fantastic. I wish I had stayed in London for a week. Both cities were expen$ive as fuck so I think that also had to do with my experiences being limited.

The background of my title picture was taken while walking down Boulevard Saint-Michel in the Latin Quarter.

Arriving in France / Mango gelato from Amorino / Outside Un Regard Moderne

BEFORE THE TRIP

Flight: I booked my flight seven months in advance. I paid $1,454.20 for round trip tickets to Paris through American Airlines. At the time I booked the flight, I still had quite a bit of money saved and I didn’t want to wait long before traveling again. Plus Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week didn’t conflict with school…and I am a fashion design student…I was seduced by the thought of seeing couture in real life! Tickets to Europe are very expensive (especially if you travel from the West Coast) so I recommend checking prices often, with your browser on private/incognito. Or search for package deals online.

Hotel / B&B: I booked a bed & breakfast through Airbnb again. My apartment was in an excellent location, in the heart of the 6th arrondissement, next to the Seine River. It was a 10-minute walk to the Louvre and a 30-minute walk to the Eiffel Tower. I paid $51 a night when I booked it - and I got what I paid for, honestly. It was a weird little room that I wouldn’t recommend. I paid $434 for my seven-night stay at the apartment. There are cheaper options through Airbnb if you share an apartment with the host. And it gets even cheaper if you share an apartment with other travelers. Staying at a hotel was not in my budget, although they are plentiful throughout Paris.

Passport: Apply for one or renew your existing passport at least two months in advance. If you need a visa, get one of those, too. Even if you have one, check to make sure everything is okay for traveling to Europe.

Booking: If you want to take a day trip outside Paris, check train prices / prices on Eurostar and book a seat in advance to guarantee a spot on the train (you can buy tickets the day of IF they are available but it’s not guaranteed). You can buy tickets and passes in advance for all the major museums (this significantly cuts down on time you have to spend waiting in line for tickets).

Itinerary: It’s a good idea to make an itinerary, even if it’s just scribbling down all the places you’d like to visit (with the days and opening times, to avoid visiting a location just to find that it’s closed). Look into prices for public transportation or map out your walking routes in advance. Estimate the amount of money you’ll spend every day and try not to exceed your budget.

Packing List:

• Passport / ID / Debit Card / Credit Card / Itinerary / Maps
• Phrasebook if you won’t have wi-fi/data
  
• Paper photocopies of your ID, passport, and credit cards (email them to yourself as well)
  
• Small Backpack (empty)
  
• Ziploc Bags / Laundry Bag
  
• Refillable Water Bottle
• Cloth / Tissue Packs / Wipes
  
• Clothes / Shoes / Jewelry (don’t overpack if you’re planning to shop)
  
• Camera + Camera Batteries / Charger / Memory Cards
  
• Phone + Charger
  
• Portable Charger + Charger
  
• Extra Glasses / Contacts / Sunglasses
  
• Skincare / Makeup / Hair Products / Toothbrush / Toothpaste / Deodorant
• Pads / Tampons
  
• Outlet / Adapter / Converter
  
• Neck Pillow (for the long long flights - I recommend this one)
  
• Door Stopper (you never know)
  
• Detergent Packs / Sink Plug (I washed clothes in a sink to save money)
  
• Snacks / Vitamins / Instant Coffee / Advil
• MASTER PACKING LIST
  

Fashion: Look, I don’t want to be mean but this is not the time to wear cargo shorts and a t-shirt unless you WANT to be robbed/scammed. Tourists stand out so much already. And we look vulnerable no matter what. Best rule of thumb: dress like you’re going to church - nothing too fancy, but no sweatsuits. 

Mobile Wi-fi / Data: I used a Verizon travel plan in Paris and London. It would be wise to sign-up for a plan through your carrier in advance. Otherwise, purchase portable wi-fi (you can buy them in week long packages, they’re available at most airports, and you can have them mailed to your B&B/hotel in advance). There are cafes with wi-fi throughout Paris if you haven’t planned and you need internet connection in a pinch (Starbucks! …but you didn’t hear that from me).

Talk to your bank: Let them know that you’ll be out of the country. Tell them where you’re going and how long you’ll be gone. Obtain euro! I took €170 for Paris, £65 for the day trip to London (and I actually survived on that money alone). Let them know at least two weeks in advance in case they need to place an order for international cash. Take note of currency exchange rates.

Language: I studied French on Duolingo seven months before the trip. I finished all the lessons by March and then moved on to watching conversational French videos on Youtube. It was useful for reading signs and understanding basic conversation but I didn’t get much practice speaking, so it was a little nerve-wrecking when it was finally time for me to speak up! Most people understood what I was saying. A phrase book will work just as well, although people may become frustrated if you take too long to translate.

Other: Arrange to have someone take care of your pets. Clean your house. Empty your fridge. Leave your keys, a copy of your itinerary, and copies of you passport / credit card / ID with someone trustworthy. Lock the windows. Arrange bills payments for the time you’ll be gone. Collect emergency contact information. Triple check that you’ve packed everything. Pack securely.

I over-prepared and also thought to do the following a week before my trip: started adjusting my sleeping schedule, washed all my clothes and deep cleaned so I’d come back to a fresh room, confirmed check-in time with my Air B&B host, trimmed my hair, tried on all my outfits in advance and then ironed before packing, got my nails done, washed my makeup brushes, charged my electronics, bought snacks, and checked-in online the day before take off.

Belgian fries from De Clercq / Eclair & Sandwich from Eric Kayser / Crepe

DURING THE TRIP

Money: As I said before, I survived with approximately $300 cash (€170 & £65). I used my credit card for Uber and to pay for ONE fancy meal, which totaled to $100. I set a budget for myself every day so that I’d have exactly enough cash to last the week. I never used an ATM machine to exchange money so I can’t give advice in that regard, but I’ve heard they’re safe and easy to use. Buy a money belt to hide your cash because theft is a major problem in Paris.

Transportation: Pack your walking shoes if you’re able-bodied! Most places around Paris are walkable. There are trains and buses - familiarize yourself with the public transportation system/rules BEFORE you get there because they’re tricky. Not everyone is going to be nice enough to stop and help you. The trains and buses are often cramped and crowded, too, so that’s something to consider. I just took Uber everywhere after I had a bad experience trying to take a bus.

Food: I think my pictures speak for themselves. I had an amazing time eating in Paris. It took a couple days for my fruit-and-veggie-heavy Californian stomach to adjust to all the bread, butter, sugar, and cheese, but it eventually worked out (TMI I had to force myself to buy expensive fruit for the fiber). I saw plenty of vegan and vegetarian options around too. The escargot + a basket of bread was my favorite, no exaggeration.

Shopping: I was in Paris during their government regulated summer sales, so most shops had discounts on clothes and shoes. Despite the tempting deals, I was not impressed with the selection of clothes around the city. I didn’t find a single article of clothing I liked (I was probably just shopping in the wrong areas). All the staff along Rue Saint-Honoré were demons except the employees at Comme des Garçons. COLETTE IS A TOURIST TRAP.

Sight-Seeing: Book tickets in advance if you can! Paris is one of the most famous places in the world for sight-seeing. This is self-explanatory. I was able to get a student discount at most museums just by showing my student ID or being under a certain age. Take advantage of every discount that you can.

And just a quick note: there are French military men carrying rifles patrolling all the major attractions as of spring 2016. It was alarming to suddenly see dozens of men carrying guns my size when I just wanted to visit a small fashion museum near the Louvre. I understand the reasoning behind it all but it did startle me quite a bit! That was something I wasn’t mentally prepared to experience.

Conversation: POLITENESS. That is the key to being perceived as a competent person when you’re in Paris. Greet people as soon as you walk in to any shop/restaurant/museum. Then say thank you and goodbye when you leave (unless they were rude to you, then by all means, do not thank them!). Most people I encountered were understanding when I couldn’t hold a conversation in French, so you shouldn’t feel obligated to do that. But it helps to know basic phrases. 

THEFT: If someone comes up to you to asking to sign a petition, say NO and walk away. They’re scammers. Thankfully I knew about this tactic before I got to Paris, so I was able to run away after a group of women approached me with a clipboard while I was walking down a deserted street. These scammers hang around major attractions in clusters, always on the hunt for vulnerable tourists to rob. Usually one person will be the distraction while another person pickpockets/straight up steals your valuables. There’s a documentary about these people on Youtube that is worth watching before you visit.

Butter croissant / Paris Catacombs / Escargot from Le Bistro du Périgord

MY ITINERARY (♥︎ = Highly Recommended)

I used ZeeMaps to plan my daily routes.

July 1, Take Off: Left SFO for North Carolina, then immediately left NC for France…

July 2, Arrival, Latin Quarter: …eventually arrived in France where I was barely screened while going through security. Got to Paris four hours ahead of my check-in time, so I bee-lined to Starbucks for wi-fi like the trash American that I am. After Starbucks I left to nap outside my AirBnB apartment because I was so exhausted. And after settling in, I ate gelato at Amorino and visited Un Regard Moderne. Came back to the apartment and went to bed. CASH SPENT: 18€25

July 3, Paris Catacombs, Notre Dame, Musee Galliera, De Clercq: Woke up extra early to visit the Paris Catacombs (♥︎♥︎♥︎) (right after eating McDonalds for breakfast because I was being cheap). The tour made me feel so alive! Mich Sandwich (♥︎) saved the day after the catacombs. Then I went on a brisk walking tour to see the Notre Dame, Louvre, Place de Concord, and the Eiffel Tower (from a safe distance). The Musée Galliera was beautiful, but stuffy (I saw couture from all my favorite designers but the staff seemed disgusted with me for no reason). At the end of the day I took an Uber back to the Latin Quarter to enjoy Belgian fries from De Clercq (♥︎). CASH SPENT: €34

July 4, Rue Saint-Honoré, Comme Des Garçons: Forced myself to eat fruit (with my enormous buttery croissant) before walking down Rue Saint-Honoré. Colette was boring and crowded. From the looks of all the shops, I would not have been welcome inside any of them. I was bored the entire way to Comme des Garçons (♥︎); thankfully, all their employees were lovely and welcoming. After my feet couldn’t take the walking anymore, I took an Uber back to my neighborhood, bought a brie and butter sandwich with an eclair, and relaxed at my apartment. CASH SPENT: €22

July 5, London (Dover Street Market, Victoria & Albert Museum, Camden, Platform 9 ¾): Woke up at 4am to get to Gare du Nord on time and eventually made it to London. Stopped inside a Marks & Spencers grocery store to eat more fiber, then took a stroll down Savile Row before going to Dover Street Market (♥︎♥︎♥︎♥︎♥︎) where I had the best shopping experience of my entire life. Took the tube to the Victoria & Albert museum. Then I took the tube to Camden for lunch and more shopping. Stopped at Platform 9 ¾ in King’s Cross Station for souvenirs and got back to Paris by midnight. CASH SPENT: £60

July 6, Rue Mouffetard, Jean Paul Gaultier: Slept in and missed the Margiela show…then I slept in some more before walking to Rue Mouffetard for a cute, relaxing time. Bought my mom a bunch of violet treats. Took an Uber to loiter outside the Jean Paul Gaultier show for a few hours, didn’t recognize a single celebrity outside, so I took another Uber back to my apartment to eat and nap until the end of the day. At this point I became completely disenchanted with Paris’ couture scene. CASH SPENT: 16€30

July 7, Musee d'Erotisme, Café des Deux Moulins, Les Arts Décoratifs: Took an Uber to the Moulin Rouge, took a picture of it, then visited the Museum of Eroticism (♥︎) - which was great! I didn’t expect to be treated to so much interesting world history through the lens of erotic art (even though 90% of it centered around cis-het relations, boo). Afterward I did the crème brûlée tourist thing at the Amélie cafe. Visited Marché Saint-Pierre but I didn’t see anything I liked. Then I took an Uber to Les Arts Décoratifs (♥︎♥︎♥︎) and was COMPLETELY blown away by the Fashion Forward exhibit. Ended the day with leftovers at my apartment. CASH SPENT: €27

July 8, Citypharma, Le Bistro du Périgord: Slept in and did some souvenir shopping later in the morning, packed and relaxed back at the apartment, then headed to Citypharma (♥︎) before lunch (thank you for the recs, Lisa Eldridge!). Bought a couple jars of NUXE Rêve de Miel (amazing). Lunch was a three-course meal at Le Bistro du Périgord (♥︎) - I had escargot for the first time and I loved it! Afterward I dragged myself back to the apartment to finish cleaning and packing. CASH SPENT: €31.50

July 9, Back Home: Woke up to have coffee and food before taking the train to the airport (and Paris Comic Con happened to be the same day so I was on the train with every cosplayer in Paris). Went through a nightmare of security checkpoint after security checkpoint and lost my favorite scarf along the way. Bought more souvenirs. Watched a bunch of movies on the plane. Then I finally got home and passed out. CASH SPENT: €19.50

Outfit diary!

LONDON

Not gonna lie, the main reason I took a day trip to London was to visit Dover Street Market (shop here). It was the first place I headed as soon as I exited the Eurostar train at St. Pancreas. I spent the previous few months saving money to buy myself something at DSM - and I did find something extra special, which you can check out in my last blog post. 

My eyes zeroed in on the eye jacket as soon as I stepped into the store. Photo from london.doverstreetmarket.com.

I would have taken pictures inside if I was allowed! The store is more of a retail / art space with installations by various artists, including Rei Kawakubo herself. I tripped over the tail of her metal dinosaur that stands in the middle of the second floor; it was awesome. The staff was extremely friendly, knowledgable, and helpful. Obviously the selection was incredible (and incredibly expensive). It was like being in a church! I was so excited being able to touch and prod and observe everything up close without the staff giving me icy stares like they do at Neiman Marcus.

Beside Comme des Garçons I was most enamored with pieces by Molly Goddard, Gucci, Rick Owens, and Simone Rocha. Next time I visit I want to get myself a Margiela purse (because I WILL visit again)… 

Entrance to Dover Street Market!

Phone booth / Elsa Schiaparelli at the Victoria & Albert Museum / Bus

Camden / Mint Aero bar / Inside Platform 9 ¾ shop

According to my bank account, I spent about $2500 total for one week in Paris (just to compare, I spent about $3200 total for two weeks in Tokyo). 

Again, traveling isn’t cheap or easy. Those people who tell you to just drop everything and travel for fun are speaking from a place of enormous privilege (OneikaTraveller made an interesting video about this). It’s possible if you have a disposable income and are diligent about saving, but it’s certainly not a desirable or accessible activity for everyone. You don’t need to travel to feel fulfilled.

I’m happy to answer questions about anything I’ve written! You can comment below. I’ll update the post as I think of more information to add.

Previously: Comme des Garçons eye print jacket in BLACK

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