For my own production, I tried to optimize the pattern and manufacture of the fabric Mask, so there’s no need to touch and straighten it out while wearing. To achieve this, the mask should fit snugly and gapless around the Nose, cheek and chin and not slide up the eyes or down the nose. Other points I found important were easy replacement of parts such as Wire, filter and ribbon, plus quick and simple sewing, washing and ironing without much ado.
Test Series of Different Mask Shapes
First, I just meant to sew a couple of cloth masks for myself, my family, some friends, friends of the family and family of friends. To find a suitable shape, I tried all the well-known sewing patterns, but didn’t like their fit – and then the pattern nerd took over (long ago, I studied fashion design, with focus on historical women’s sports apparel and seemingly impossible patterns… :)). Finally, I combined a hybrid mask from known models, plus a few hacks.
Characteristic Features of my Optimized Hybrid Mask
My hybrid mask has a special pleat for the nose that adapts very well to the face, even without wire. It does not push up the eyes or down the nose, and it enables laughter or yawning without any slipping. The upper seam holds a nose wire that improves the fit even further, protects glasses from fogging and can be removed through a little opening. The nose wire runs across the entire width of the mask, which means you can hardly injure yourself with it.
I opted for folds that give more air to breathe, move less with facial expressions and gently enclose the chin. In addition, straight folds have the advantage of a flat lay-down shape, which is easier to sew and to iron. The trapezoid shaped pattern corresponds to the anatomy of the face, it is slim-fitting and less bulgy on the chin than a rectangle.
I use different fabrics for inside and outside, so that you can't confuse the two sides.
The side of the mask holds a piped drawstring tunnel, which is individually adjustable and can be slightly creased, so the side does not protrude and a tight fit can be achieved. Thanks to the drawstring, elastic ear straps or a head ribbon (I prefer a continuous strap that ties in the neck) can be individually adjusted and easily exchanged.
At the bottom of the mask, there is a small opening for the insertion of a filter.
Handling Self-Sewn DIY Cloth Masks
With careful handling, a self-sewn mask can be rather effective for protecting others from its wearer, but the protection for the wearer is extremely limited. If you use this mask, you do so at your own risk, and you should certainly still follow the usual safety rules (hand hygiene, distance, cough / sneeze protocol, etc.)!
Wash your hands before putting on the mask, insert a wire to the upper seam and a non-woven disposable filter (f.e. paper tissue) through the lower opening, and push or pluck it into the corners. Place the top edge of the mask on the root of your nose and place ribbons around your ears. Pull under the chin, fold nose wire, straighten nose fold and slightly crease the drawstrings. The mask should fit as close to the face as possible, without constricting.
If the mask fits well, do not touch it anymore! Always treat the mask as if it were contaminated. If straightening the mask while wearing it is unavoidable, only touch the ribbon and never the fabric, and wash your hands immediately. Do not wear the mask for more than 4 hours, if it becomes dirty or damp, or if you do not get enough air!
To take off the mask, grasp it by the straps and remove it without touching the fabric. Store it in a closed container and wash your hands and face thoroughly. The mask should be cleaned after each use. To do this, remove filter and wire, launder at least 60° in the machine or cook for 5 minutes. Wash your hands. Allow to dry and iron well.
This hybrid mask can be sewn easily and quickly (10-15 minutes). To make this mask yourself, you need two cotton fabrics (please test in advance whether you can breathe well!), some wire and elastic straps or ribbon, a sewing machine or simply needle and thread, scissors, some pins, chalk or pencils for marking, plus (ideally) a flatiron.
Instructions for Sewing the Hybrid Cloth Mask
(1) Cut 20 x 20 cm / 8" x 8" of the back and front fabric and 2 strips of 4 x 10 cm / 1,6" x 4" each. Also cut 18 cm / 7" of wire for the nose holder and 60 cm / 24" elastic band for the earbands or 120 cm / 48" textile ribbon for a headband.
(2) Layer both fabrics neatly, with the right side inwards. Mark the opening for the wire at the top and the opening for the filter at the bottom. Topstitch both seams 1 cm / 0,4" from the cutting edge. Iron the seam allowances apart.
(3) Turn the mask over to the right side. Iron edges properly and topstitch the tunnel for the nase wire 0,5 cm / 0,2" from the top edge. Mark and fold pleats from the outside, according to the pattern and the illustration shown above.
(4) Iron the pleats and pin them. Place the strips of fabric with the right side inwards on the edges. Bend, fold in top and bottom and topstitch them approx. 1 cm / 0,4" from the cutting edge of the strips. Cut off excess fabric at the edge.
(5) Fold fabric strips over, iron them down, fold them around and in, and pin them overlapping the seam on the back. Topstitch cleanly from the front, in the seam shadow. Bend wire ends and carefully insert to the tunnel.
(6) Use a safety pin to pull your bands – either elastic for ear holders or ribbon for a long headband – into the drawstrings on both sides. Adjust elastic bands individually, either knot or sew and pull seams into the drawstring.
Adapting the Pattern for Gentlemen (L/XL) and Children (S)
The dimensions of my pattern and instructions are designed as sort of an universal ladies' mask (size M), which also fits men and teenagers sort of okay-ish. Before you start sewing modified sizes, I very highly recommend to make and fully understand the standard model, because otherwise this will certainly become far too complicated!
For a true men's mask (size L), I took 1 cm / 0,4" more fabric on each side (fabrics 22 x 22 cm / 8,8" x 8,8" each, strips 4 x 11 cm / 1,6" x 4,4" each) and then either (a) redistributed the pleat height (2,2 cm / 0,9" instead of 2 cm / 0,8") and kept the folding or (b) kept the pleat height and folded an extra pleat of 2 cm / 0,8" inwards at the bottom. Both works fine.
For a men's mask in size XL, you may go with 2 cm / 0,8" more fabric on each side (fabrics 24 x 24 cm / 9,4" x 9,4" each, strips 4 x 12 cm / 1,6" x 4,8" each, keep the folding but modify the pleat height to 2,4 cm / 1" rather than extra pleats.
For a true children's mask (size S) that fits 8-12 year olds (as far as I read, masks are not recommended for younger children, as there seems to be some health risk!), I took 1 cm / 0,4" less on each side (fabrics 18 x 18 cm / 7,2" x 7,2", strips 4 x 9 cm / 1,6" x 3,6") and then either (a) redistributed the pleats height (1,8 cm / 0,7" instead of 2 cm / 0,8") and kept the folding or (b) kept the pleat height and made the mask 2 cm / 0,8" shorter on its lower edge.
If your printer allows, you can simply adjust the size there: size S ist 90%, M ist 100%,, L is 110% and XL is 120%.
Frequently Asked Questions (+ some more Hacks)
My glasses fog up when I wear a mask. Does this one work better?
For me and some others, it does! I've sewn many different models (20 at least) and glasses fogging up or colliding with the mask edges were one of the reasons I finally decided to try making my own. I was actually surprised when I realised how well the nose pleat works and that it doesn't even need a wire to fit tight and keep my glasses clear!
Does this mask have ear bands or a head band? What's better?
You have all options – and thanks to drawstring tunnels, you can even switch later! First is two elastic ear straps (easy to dress but might hurt the ears, so it's practical for shorter wearing), second is one long textile tie (harder to dress but doesn't hurt the ears, so it's comfortable for longer wearing). I usually donate my masks in a double packs, one with ear bands and the other with a head tie. Everyone prefers a different fit, so I use safety pins to fasten the open bands.
If you wear glasses or hearing aids, I'd recommend to either go with the long tie or to use some sort of fastening (hair / paper clips or ribbon), pull the ear straps back and fasten them behind your head, to take the pressure off your ears.
If you're using elastics and want to save, you can (a) measure with cheap cord and cut elastics precisely, (b) sew instead of knotting, or (c) sew on textile ribbon for the part hidden in the drawstring.
For inserting the long tie, go up on one side and down on the other. When you dress it, lengthen the closed upper part, put it over your head, pull the mask all the way to your face, then pull the open ties to your neck and bow them there.
What are your materials for Fabrics, wire, ties and filters?
For my own production, I mostly use leftovers and ask for fabrics, wire and ties whenever I'm giving away a mask. So far, this works really well and I'm very happy with all the materials concidence brought my way! :)
I like thin gardening wire, as it bends well, stays well and even survives accidental cooking :), but binder metal, hat wire, fence wire or pipe cleaners are solid options too. You can even use unfolded paper clips or any thin metal wire!
I never found any of those neat rubber bands for the ear straps, so I use classic elastic bands, bra straps, jersey cuts or nylon cuts (which both roll up by themselves!). For the head band, I like textile ribbon, gift ribbon or straight grain binding. Ironed to double if it's too wide. I didn't take the time to make bias tape, but I've read that works well too!
The fabric question is always interesting, and I've read about the magic of surgical cloth and how polyester may be a safer option... For the moment, cotton seemed most reasonable, because it is available, breathable and can be washed at high temperatures! I mostly use leftover sheets, tablecloths, curtains, shirts, pajamas or other old clothes.
I've also read exciting things about different filters, but finally thought it was safer to go with things that were actually developped to be used in / near your face: paper towels and paper tissues! As far as I read, the most important point is that they're non-woven, and I think it's nice to have a disposable layer between the front and back of your mask.
Is there some sort of trick on how to insert your filters?
First, I cut my filter to 16 cm / 6,3" width and 18 cm / 7,1" length. Then I insert it just like putting sheets on a pillow, (a) pushing the upper corners of the filter into the upper corners of the mask, (b) holding the corners in place with a pin / clip, and (c) carefully pulling the fabric down, straightening and pushing the filter from the middle into the sides / pleats all the way down! If you fold your filter along the pleats (tricky but possible!), the pleats hold it in place :)
If you want to make double sure your filter stays in place, you can use small safety pins and keep them placed in those upper corners, right next to the wire. If you put them on the inside of your mask, you won't feel them when wearing!
My printed files are not true size. What can I do?
When I published my first PDF, I didn't think about the different EU and US formats, so if your download was before April 23rd, you may have the EU file! After I heard about this causing problems, I added a US file alongside the EU one.
If this doesn't solve your problem, you should make sure that pages are printed at 100% – and maybe measure whether 2 cm / 0,8" on the print correspond to a ruler. For some printers, it might help to activate frameless printing!
How do I manufacture this mask more simple / elaborate?
If you don't have a sewing machine, you can skip the inserts, cut only one rectangular piece (38 x 20 cm / 15" x 8") instead of two squares, sew the full upper seam and skip the wire tunnel. This only takes 40 cm / 16" of stitching!
Some beginners like to use larger stripes (6 x 12 cm / 2,4" x 4,8") for the drawstring tunnels.
If you have time, you can manufacture the mask much neater and f.e. overlock all the edges (I just tore the fabric and pre-frayed 2-3 threads; so far, it holds great! :)) and / or neatly sew down the open edges at the bottom, all around the filter insert. If you want to do that, I recommend 1 cm / 0,4" more seam allowance in the lower part (i.e. 20 x 21 cm / 8" x 8,4" instead of 20 x 20 cm / 8" x 8"). In step (2), first topstitch the two parts of the lower seam at 2 cm / 0,8" distance, then iron out the seam allowances. When you're done with that, fold the allowances in individually, iron them again and topstitch over the entire lengths on both sides. Close the upper seam last and continue according to instructions.
Help, I'm completely confused!
For everyone who might get confused when folding the pleats, I have drawn the folding scheme from a side view. I always start with quickly ironing the top fold backwards and then work my way down, from the front side, mark by mark and fold by fold – and once you sew the 3rd or 4th mask, the procedure becomes really fast (seriously!)! :)
The small side cuts in the paper pattern are intended to help marking the folds on the fabric. I cut them out in the paper pattern and use them to neatly draw pleat marks on the actual fabric with chalk, crayon or pencil.
If you've accidentally closed the wire opening in the seam, you can carefully open 2-3 stitches later, with a seam ripper or scissors. This is not an elegant solution, but there is no pull on the seam, so it's unlikely that it will open much more.
My mask doesn't fit like yours, What did I do wrong?
After cleaning the mask, proper ironing, preferrably very hot, with lots of steam and from both sides, is not only important for hygiene, but also because it makes the nose part fit much better and keeps the pleats from bulging!
For me, the positioning of the mask is easiest when I first draw out the nose pleat, then fold the mask in half vertically (thereby bending the nose clip in advance), then put on the mask with nose first and over the lower face. Finally, I align the nose pleat, so that the upper seam with the wire shows up and sits perfectly on the nose (see pics).
If the mask still doesn't fit, you could check whether you have adjusted the bands correctly! 30 cm / 12" for ear straps is a rough measure, which you should adjust to your own needs (mine is 16-18 cm), then knot or sew it there.
If all this doesn't lead to the desired result, please check if your nose pleat is actually 2 cm / 0,8" deep!
When will you publish a video tutorial and more pictures?
Better photos will follow (my own masks are in the laundry right now...), probably a video too (if I have a good idea how I can do that without any cutting and a camera holder!)... let's see how and when this works!
In the meantime, you can read a test of my pattern on Maskezeigen.de, a great mask portal supported by the German gouvernment, and some (process) pictures on Instagram. I've seen some video-preferring total beginners make beautiful masks with my pictorial instructions, so even if you're a visual learner, I'd recommend to just give it a try!
I update the tips, tricks and question annotations every 2-3 days (last: April 22nd). If you have any questions yourself, please feel free comment below (or via Facebook, Twitter, Instagram) or simply send me an email!
Here is the manual (without annotations) on 3 pages, as a PDF for printing (updated April 22nd):
DIY Sewing Instructions + Pattern for a Hybrid Face Mask
EU Din A4 Version | US Letter Version
If you can't or don't want to sew, you might like to try my instructions for DIY makeshift emergency mask, which can be made from paper towels and office supplies in under a minute, and for which I already made my first video!
Usage, Rights and Sharing
This manual and mask is protected by German copyright (© Iris Luckhaus), but as I think it's great when people sew, wear and give away masks, I agree to non-commercial use and distribution, given my name / website are included.
If you'd like to write about this mask or share photos, please tag @irisluckhaus / #hybridmaske so I can see it! You can also follow up my further mask developments (which are sure to come!) on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, LinkedIn, Pinterest or YouTube. If you'd like to further encourage projects like this, feel free to buy me a coffee! :)
If you consider using my instructions commercially (i.e. with the intention of making a profit), f.e. by selling masks sewn according to my instructions at more than cost price, or publishing my instructions, please request an estimate.
Acknowledgements
Great thanks to Matthias, Angelika, Reinhard, Bruni, Margot, Rose, Tanni, Eli, Ilia, Chrissi, Henning and Ekke for amazing support from near and far, practical ideas, face measurements, advance reading, trying out and trying on! I am also extremely grateful to the hardworking seamstresses of several awesome mask groups on Facebook for their very clever questions and sparkling enthusiasm for my pattern. Furthermore, I'd like to thank all those who sew, wear and give away this mask (or any other mask!) for their efforts to protect others: You are all heroes!
Take good care of yourself and stay healthy! ❤
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