From ancient mud-brick cities and fortifications to one of the holiest sites of Zoroastrianism, the arid landscape in the Iranian province of Yazd hides some of the most unique and unknown sites that you can find in the Islamic Republic.

After spending two days in Isfahan, I ventured in a full day journey to the desert city of Yazd, first stopping at all the hidden sites that this province has to offer. Follow my journey from Isfahan to Yazd while I discover Nain Mosque, the holy Zoroastrian site of Chak Chak, as well as the ancient cities of Meybod and Kharanaq!

How to go from Isfahan to Yazd

I reached Yazd private transfer from Isfahan to Yazd organised by Iran’s travel. My original plan was to take a direct VIP bus from Isfahan to Yazd, and from there do a day trip to some of the many interesting locations near this unknown city in the desert. However, I soon realised that most of the places of interest were actually located between Isfahan and Yazd, so it didn’t make much sense not to stop on the way.

After much research, Iran’s Travel was offering just what I needed. Their private transfer included all the highlights between Isfahan and Yazd, including Nain Mosque, Narin Castle, Chack Chack and Kharanaq. Since the transfer is private, you can adjust the itinerary and stop as much or as little as you need in each location. 

Iran’s Travel is a tour operator whose purpose is to make the most memorable trip to Iran for you, offering all type of visits across Iran, from multi-day tours to one-day visits. The visit started at 8am from my hotel in Isfahan and we made it to Yazd around 6pm.

Since I was travelling on my own and hired the car and driver just for myself, the transfer came up at a pricy cost of $80. However, if you’re travelling with more people, the cost won’t come out as high. Although my transfer may sound expensive, the truth is that taking the bus to Yazd and then a day tour wouldn’t be much cheaper.

Additionally, the convenience of stopping on the way from Isfahan to Yazd without having to drive back the following day made the whole experience worth it. Just the journey between both cities takes about 4 hours, so stopping on all the sites on the way helped me not only save time but also made the day much more enjoyable!

Nain Mosque

The initial construction of Jameh Mosque in Nain dates back to the 8th century AD, but the whole of the complex has been constructed incrementally.

One of the oldest mosques in Iran, its plasterwork over the nice, the brickwork around the yard and its basement, which may have been used as a fire template before the mosque was built here, are only a few of the features of the mosque.

This mosque has no iwan and dome as do the other famous mosques in Isfahan and Yazd. A 28m tall octagonal minaret was added to the mosque almost 700 years ago.

One of the pieces of artwork inside the mosque is the wooden marquetry pulpit. The carpenter matched the wooden parts together like a piece of a puzzle, but in next times some gib or spikes were added to fixate it. The pulpit is decorated with organic geometrical designs. According to the wooden inscription on the left side of the pulpit, it was created about 700 years ago. 

An underground water channel runs underneath the mosque. There is a stairway that connects the mosque to the water channel and chambers above the pool. In the past, people used the water for ablutions before prayers.

The basement used to be a prayer chamber in hot summers and cold winters. The temperature in the basement is always moderate, never varying more than 10 to 15 degrees. The basement wasn’t actually built, it was dug into the ground, which means no materials were used to construct it. 

Meybod

A one hour 30 minutes drive separate Nain and Meybod, my next stop of the day. The ancient city of Meybod consists of three districts: the ancient fortress, shares tan and Rabaz (the suburb). 

The ancient fortress is known as the Narin fortress. The magnificent fortress rests atop the highest clay hill, measuring 25 meters in height. The entrance fee for foreign visitors is 150,000 rials (approx. €3)

Constructed on an irregular oval plan, the fortress consists of two parts: the official residence overlooking the north of Meybod, and the ordinary residence with five labyrinthine fortifications and ante murals. The spending building is made of adobe and clay. 

At the lowest level, a few cavities were excavated next to each other. The historical masterpiece was made inaccessible to the intruders and a deep moat surrounds the building. The ordinary people and soldiers took residence downstairs and the officials took residence upstairs. The formidable fortress was attacked several times, however,  the building always was invincible. 

In general, the castle’s defensive structure consists of a moat all around besides interior walls surrounded the citadel while embedding its major constructions, including the public spaces. 

The castle’s connection with the town was through the western side, with a drawbridge that was lowered when necessary. The castle’s gateway was located in the west of it and two turrets at both sides of the barbican safeguarded the castle. 

After exploring Narin Castle and enjoying the great views of Meybod from the top, we drove for a few minutes to the newer part of the city. With a population of 60,000 inhabitants, today Maybod is one of the main desert cities in the Yazd Province.

Capital of Iran during the Muzaffarid period in the 14th century, it still preserves some tourist attractions beyond the ruins of the ancient city. One of them is the famous Shah Abbasi Caravanserai.

A caravanserai was a place of rest along Silk Road, where traders spent the night before continuing their journey transporting goods between Asia and Europe. The caravanserai in Meybod was built during the Safavid period based on a rectangular plan with a yard. The yard has 24 chambers that today have been transformed into shops displaying local handicraft.

Although Meybod is located at the entrance of the desert, the truth is that the city is known for its icehouses.

The ice used to be made during the cold winter months and was stored in the icehouses to be used throughout the next year in the forthcoming hot seasons. 

These enormous mud and mud'-brick buildings consist of four main parts: the ice pond, the shading walls, the main dome and the ice pit. These constructions were used to make and store ice, and considering the characteristics of the geographical environment, it has a huge meaning for the local civilisation.

Another important construction in Meybod, that you can find scattered in other locations across Iran, is the Pigeon Tower.

I was a bit disappointed with the outside, which even made me consider paying the 50,000 entrance fee (approx. €1), however, the beautiful, contemporary interior of this 200-year-old construction really struck me. 

The need to attract pigeons to these towers was the use of their droppings as fertilisers for the local melon and cucumber fields. With a capacity of over 4,000 birds, the towers protected them from predators. The entry holes are located at the very top, with a size just perfect to stop bigger birds from getting in. The plaster finish of the tower made it safe from snakes, while the stone at the base prevented rats from digging underground.  

Chak Chak

Chak Chak was our next stop of the day, located 45 minutes east from Meybo and known for being the most sacred mountain of the Zoroastrians, one of the oldest religions of the world that reigned in Iran for centuries before being widely replaced by Islam. 

According to the legend, Chak Chak has its origins in Hayat Banoo, the daughter of Yazdgerd Sassanid. She was one of the princesses that were displaced in areas around Yazd after the collapse of Ctesiphon to maintain their honour and chastity. 

When Hayat Banoo came into the hillsides behind Homin and Senjed, she saw the enemy from a distance. She climbed the arid and high mountains crying and weepy, and as the enemy approached, she sighed, looked at the mountains and said: “embrace me as a kind mother and save me”. 

At the same moment, a gap was created in the mountain and she disappeared. Surprised, the enemy troops left the place. After a while, water drops started dripping at the top of the mountain, like if it was the tears of the princess. The name Chak Chak (‘drip, drip’), comes from the sound made by this water.

Zoroastrianism has almost disappeared in many parts of Iran, but there are still some Zoroastrian communities left in the country, especially in the Yazd region. Zoroastrians have left a legacy of culture and mythology that has influenced Iran until our days. As a matter of fact, Nowruz, the Iranian New Year, actually has Zoroastrian origins!

Although we could reach the base with the car, I still had to climb quite a bit to get up to the temple. The truth is that Chak Chak is a very simple construction without much to offer on the way up. The temple, located at the very top, is a man-made grotto accessed through two bronze doors.

Inside you can find the eternal flame that has been burning for centuries, as well as the small stream of water so important to Zoroastrians. Every year, between June 14th and 18th, Zoroastrians from all over Iran and India go to Chak Chak temple in pilgrimage, sometimes staying in the complex for a few days.