The Kii Peninsula (紀伊半島) is a vast region that extends across the prefectures of Nara (奈良), Wakayama (和歌山) and Mie (三重), occupying most of southern Kansai. Its riches are manifold: pilgrimage routes across grandiose landscapes, a distinctive spiritual culture that combines Buddhism, Shintoism, and sacred nature, ancestral crafts, and deliciously healthy gastronomy, among many more wonders.

Sometimes referred to as the “birthplace of Japan,” this region is one of the nation’s oldest cultural and religious centers, which gave rise to Japan’s first capitals: Asuka (明日香村), now a charming countryside village, and the city of Nara (奈良市), famous for its numerous temples, shrines, and sacred shika deer. The Kii Mountain Range is crisscrossed by the historical Kumano Kodo (熊野古道) pilgrimage trails, a World Heritage Site whose Kohechi (小辺路) and Omine Okugakemichi (大峰奥駈道) routes link the three Grand Shrines of Kumano Sanzan (熊野三山) respectively to the sacred sites of Koyasan (高野山) and Mount Yoshino (吉野山, Yoshinoyama).

It would take months, if not a lifetime, to explore all the riches of the Kii Peninsula. But if you have 4 days, here is an itinerary through Nara and Wakayama prefectures, from Mount Yoshino to Koyasan, along historical pilgrimage routes.

• Day 1: Nara prefecture, from Sakurai to Uda to Kashihara — Miwa somen in Sakurai, Muro-ji temple in Uda, Imaicho historical district, Gourmet dinner in Kashihara

• Day 2: Nara prefecture, Yoshino — Fukunishi Washi Hanpo paper-making workshop, Mount Yoshino: Kakinoha sushi, Kinpusen-ji temple, Hanayagura Observatory, Yoshino Mikumari-jinja shrine

• Day 3: Wakayama prefecture, hike to Koyasan — Koyasan Choishi-michi pilgrimage route, from Kudoyama to Koyasan (Jison-in temple, Niutsuhime-jinja shrine, Daimon large gate), one night in a Buddhist temple

• Day 4: Wakayama prefecture, Koyasan — Kongobu-ji Temple, Danjō Garan, Okuno-in Cemetery, Goma tofu lunch

Day 1: Culinary, cultural and spiritual pleasures in Nara prefecture

Our Kii Peninsula itinerary begins at lunchtime, in the city of Sakurai (桜井市) in Nara prefecture. Sakurai is located about a 40-minute train ride south of central Nara, so don’t hesitate to visit Nara Park or some of the other famous attractions before starting your journey off the beaten tourist path.

If you’re coming to Sakurai by train from elsewhere, it takes about 1 hour from Kyoto or Osaka, about 2 hours from Kansai International Airport (関西国際空港), or a little over 4 hours from Tokyo. In any case, this starting point is easily accessible by public transportation.

Eat Miwa somen noodle in Sakurai

One of Nara’s most famous regional culinary specialties is somen (そうめん). These extremely thin, white wheat noodles are particularly popular in the summer months when they are served chilled as a light and refreshing meal, although they are just as tasty when eaten hot in winter.

While somen are also produced in other prefectures, Nara’s Miwa somen (三輪そうめん) are the oldest noodles in Japan! The recipe was reputedly imported from China at the same time as Buddhism, which makes Nara the birthplace of these two fundamental elements of modern Japanese culture.

In Sakurai, you can taste these ancient noodles at a dedicated restaurant: Ikerimiwa Somenjaya Senjutei (池利三輪素麺茶屋 千寿亭).

The menu includes items for all seasons: Miwa somen served hot or cold, cooked into a refined course or prepared as a simple dish, or along with other cooked dishes using local seasonal ingredients. Kaiseki (懐石, a gourmet multi-course meal) is also available at a very reasonable price.

Visit Muro-ji temple, the “Women’s Koyasan”

The next stop on our itinerary is Muro-ji (室生寺), a temple nestled in the mountains of Uda (宇陀) to the east. It takes about 1 hour to get there by bus, but be sure to check the schedule beforehand because the only bus that goes there doesn’t run often.

Muro-ji is nicknamed the “Women’s Koyasan” (女人高野, Nyonin-Koya), due to its historical connections with the Koyasan religious center, which we will visit later on. Women were prohibited from entering Koyasan before 1872, but as early as the 7th century, they were welcomed by Muro-ji temple, which also had close ties to Koyasan’s Shingon Buddhism (真言宗).

The main building dates back to 1308 and contains fascinating old Buddha statues. The dense surrounding forest creates a tranquil atmosphere that encourages meditation; if you’ve spent the past days visiting more touristy temples, you’ll appreciate the contrast.

Muro-ji is especially famous for its elegant five-story pagoda perched atop a steep flight of stone steps. As many patches of rhododendrons and Japanese maples populate the temple grounds, the best times to see its blooming flora or fiery foliage is autumn and late April to early May.

Wander through the historical district of Imaicho in Kashihara

Head back west to spend the evening in Imaicho (今井町), the historical merchant district of the city of Kashihara (橿原市). It’s surprising how few people visit or even know about Imaicho, given the unmistakable charm of its many narrow alleys full of tiled-roof houses, typical Japanese architecture of the Edo period (1603-1867).

Imaicho is remarkably well preserved, with 500 old buildings concentrated in an area of about 2 square kilometers. As it remains relatively undiscovered by tourists (for now), you can enjoy a peaceful, leisurely stroll through the alleys, watching the façades of the houses glow in the setting sun, before their lights turn on inside one by one… By then, it will be the perfect time for dinner, as many fine restaurants hide behind the neighborhood noren.

Dine on French cuisine in Kashihara

While there are many typical Japanese restaurants in Imaicho, we recommend Tama, a gourmet French restaurant, for a memorable dinner.

Once past the discreet white noren and the wood-covered entrance of a traditional building, Tama’s dining room evokes a blend of Japanese minimalism and Scandinavian efficiency. The restaurant opens out onto a small garden, which can also be appreciated from inside through large sliding glass doors.

The chef prepares a unique French-inspired menu, using exclusively premium local ingredients.

After dinner, you can retire for the night in any one of a wide selection of hotels in Kashihara.

Day 2: Exploring Yoshino, in Nara prefecture

After a final walk through the alleys of Imaicho, take an hour-long train ride to Yoshino (吉野町). But before climbing past a majestic temple and thousands of cherry blossoms on your way to the peak, consider making a short detour to the paper-making workshop Fukunishi Washi Honpo.

Make Yoshino washi paper at Fukunishi Washi Honpo

Washi (和紙, literally “Japanese paper”) is artisanal paper made from the bark fiber of a hybrid paper mulberry tree (楮, kouzo). Besides the plant fiber, another crucial element that determines the quality of washi is the water. The Yoshino region is blessed with particularly pure water, which is behind the reputation of Yoshino washi (吉野和紙), produced here for more than 1,300 years.

Nara prefecture is actually known for its craftsmanship related to calligraphy (ink, brushes) due to its ancient and profound links to Buddhism—imported from China, along with the artisanal techniques—and the practice of copying sutras developed in the temples.

You can buy Yoshino washi in Nara or elsewhere, but we suggest participating in a hands-on workshop, where you can learn to make it yourself and fully appreciate its various qualities. Fukunishi Washi Honpo (福西和紙本舗) offers precisely this type of experience, guided by recognized masters of their craft: the Fukunishi family also supplies the Japanese Imperial Agency.

During this workshop, you can make your own custom washi paper using dyes or plants. The shop also sells professional paper and other items, so you can buy gifts and souvenirs while helping to preserve this centuries-old craft.

Hike Mount Yoshino

Once you return to Kintetsu Yamato-Kamiichi Station (大和上市駅), it’s only a 5-minute ride to Yoshino Station (吉野駅). From here to the peak, you can either take the ropeway or venture on a short 20-minute hike.

Mount Yoshino is the starting point of the Omine-Okugakemichi (大峯奥駈道). This mountainous pilgrimage route is especially used by yamabushi (山伏), ascetic hermits who follow the Shugendo (修験道) doctrine, which integrates esoteric Shingon Buddhism, mountain worship, as well as Taoist and Shinto elements. Even without the rigorous training of a yamabushi, walking along this mountain path is a good way to appreciate the intimate relationship between nature and spirituality throughout the Kii Peninsula.

Lunch on kakinoha sushi, Nara’s famous sushi

But first, now might be a good time to break for lunch. There are many restaurants on Mount Yoshino, but it’s worth finding one that specializes in the regional specialty of kakinoha sushi (柿の葉寿司).

“Kakinoha” literally refers to the persimmon leaf that is used to wrap the sushi made up of a slice of marinated fish over vinegared rice. Like vinegar, persimmon leaves have anti-bacterial qualities that preserve the kakinoha sushi at ambient temperature. For this reason, they are often found in ekiben (駅弁, boxed meals sold in train stations)—and a personal favorite, as much for their vinegary taste as for their eco-friendly traditional wrapping!

You can either purchase a box of kakinoha sushi to eat later in a setting of your choice or taste them in the context of a more elaborate menu at a specialized restaurant such as Hiraso (平宗).

Visit Kinpusen-ji temple, sacred site of Shugendo

Once you’ve had your fill of sushi, head off to Mount Yoshino (吉野山, Yoshinoyama), which is especially famous for its 30,000 cherry trees that transform the mountain landscape into a billowy carpet of pink blossoms and evergreen in spring. For centuries, it has been known as the most beautiful spot for hanami. But Mount Yoshino is worth visiting all year round because these cherry trees are here for a reason. Sakura blossoms have been considered sacred since ancient times, and they play a central role in some of the rituals practiced at Kinpusen-ji temple.

Kinpusen-ji (金峯山寺), which marks the exact starting point of the Omine Okugakemichi pilgrimage route, is the largest Shugendo temple. Its colossal main building is situated about a 10-minute walk away from the ropeway terminal.

This imposing wooden temple structure is the second-largest in Japan, after the main hall of Todai-ji in Nara, which houses the famous Great Buddha. Kinpusen-ji is home to three 7-meter-tall, 1,300-year-old statues of Zao Gongen (divinity worshipped by followers of Shugendo), whose skin is painted a deep blue that contrasts with the gold and other warm hues of their surroundings. These statues are only visible in spring and autumn.

In line with the religious syncretism that characterizes the history and culture of Japan, a few modest Shinto shrines also intermingled with the temples around Kinpusen-ji.

Take in the view from Hanayagura Observatory on Mount Yoshino

All the iconic photographs you might have seen of the sweeping views from Mount Yoshino, with white buildings tracing a sinewy crest through hills of billowy flora, were taken from Hanayagura Observatory (花矢倉展望台).

While some famous photogenic views risk disappointing when viewed in person, this was not at all the case when I arrived at Mount Yoshino in autumn, even without the 30,000 cherry blossoms. For me, the reason was not only the spectacular panorama itself but the sense of achievement in reaching it. The hike to the observatory takes about an hour on a paved path, and the rewarding view of the area, with the tiny Kinpusen-ji in the distance, gives a good idea of the mountain’s topography. Ever since I encouraged my parents to join me on this adventure, they still talk about how fulfilled they felt to reach the summit, exhausted but elated to admire this exceptional landscape.

Mysterious Yoshino Mikumari-jinja shrine

Once you’ve made it up to Hanayagura Observatory, it’s just a short walk to Yoshino Mikumari-jinja (吉野水分神社) about 200 meters away. This Shinto shrine was transferred to its present location in the 9th century and dedicated to the goddess Ame-no-Mikumari-no-Kami. It may not be grandiose, but the singular architecture of its 17th-century buildings envelop it in a mysterious aura.

The shrine’s austere and elegantly elongated buildings surround a narrow inner courtyard centered around a weeping cherry tree. It only takes a few minutes to walk around the grounds, but you can easily lose track of time within this captivating site.

After a day of hiking, relax and spend the night in the heights of Mount Yoshino in a ryokan (旅館, traditional Japanese lodge). In addition to tatami rooms and gourmet meals, most offer rejuvenating hot baths and a clear view of the mountains.

Day 3: Walking the pilgrimage route to Koyasan

On the third day of our itinerary, we leave Nara and cross over to Wakayama prefecture in the direction of Koyasan. Take the train from Yoshino (吉野) to Hashimoto (橋本) (1-1.5 hours). From there, you can either take a local train or the Tenku (天空) tourist train to Kudoyama Station (九度山駅) (10 minutes).

The Tenku train treats its passengers to luscious views of the surrounding mountain landscape through large windows. Note that reservations are required, but it also runs all the way to Koyasan if you cho