Trad is Rad

Scotland has really strong Climbing ethics. If a route can be ascended using natural protection then putting a bolt in the rock face is considered a crime against climbing. These disputes get pretty heated, you should check  out some of the bolting arguments on UK climbing. Because of this, a lot of the climbing in Scotland is trad and strict trad too. We recently did a couple of multi-pitch trad climbs in Italy and found the majority of the route to have bolts. We found this really weird since there was loads of natural protection, in Scotland those bolts wouldn’t be there. Of course we have loads of great sport climbing too but if you’re planning a trip just make sure you pick the right crag or have a rack.

The Scottish are Nuts

A typical Scottish rack is stacked with nuts. I guess it must be because of nature of the rock in Scotland that nuts are the most used type of protection. For a year or so I didn’t even have a cam, partially because I couldn’t afford them but mostly because I didn’t really need them. I’ve met American climbers who have hundreds of cams and climb almost exclusively on them but for climbing in Scotland, just bring a small selection.

Dry Rock is precious

It’s a stereotype but only because it’s true. It rains a lot here, like a depressing amount. There are however, some upsides to this apart from the really green scenery. When it’s dry you feel obligated to get out and climb. The knowledge that dry days are limited is a great motivator for getting you climbing outside. Also the rain and darkness builds character. Climbing is a mental game and some gritty determination will serve you well.

Hand warmer in the Chalk bag

One of the best tips for climbing in Scotland I ever got was to put a hand warmer in your Chalk Bag. When you’re hands are aching with the cold, stick them in your chalk bag and thaw them out for a few minutes. It’s great for keeping moral up on those wintery days.

Approaches can be really long

Really, really long. We’ve endured a hard two hour hike with all our kit just to reach one climb. It was totally worth it but good approach shoes can really make the difference. These approaches also teach you to travel light. It’s always difficult packing, especially when the weather can throw anything at you but light and fast can often be safer than being over prepared.

Midgies are the Devil

If you’ve never experienced a full on midgie feeding frenzy then you can’t understand what these things are like. These biting insects have a legendary status for creating misery. Depending on when and where you planning on climbing midgies might not be an issue but a midgie net is definitely worth having. It’s just a net that keeps them from reaching your face and neck. I was once belaying when a cloud of these beasts descended onto us. It was so hard to concentrate I nearly short roped my friend on lead. We finished the climb in record time and got the hell out of there.

The views are amazing

Scottish crags maybe remote, midgie infested, soaking wet, freezing or exposed but when you get to the top you will see why people come from all around the world to climb here.

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