The Alfama is probably Lisbon’s oldest neighbourhood and almost certainly the best area of the city to wander around in, catching the sights, the views, and the trams.

One of the unwritten rules in this area is that every visitor has to ride on the Number 28 tram with its interesting route around the district. During my last visit there were queues at the terminus stop for this tram and it was packed every time I saw it. This is a shame as it’s a good idea to let the tram do most of the climbing for you and then you can get off at the top of the hill and walk downhill.

The Alfama has many slopes and staircases so take some comfortable walking shoes. Within this area you’ll find the Cathedral of Lisbon, St Anthony’s Church, St Vicente de Fora, the castle, and the Fado Museum. There are many viewpoints including many around the castle where small alleys head steeply downhill and allow a view over the rooftops.

Some of the best official viewpoints include the one close to the Santo Estevao church which provides a view over the rooftops down to the Tagus and the cruise ship terminal. A better known one is the Miradouro de Santa Luzia behind the Santa Luzia church. There’s also a good view from the tower of the church at the castle and from a viewing gallery at the Vicente de Fora church.

The Alfama largely survived the 1755 earthquake as it’s largely built on solid rock and was high enough not to be affected too badly by the tsunami that arrived after the initial shock.