We visited Sundarbans as part of the Kolkata Trip in the March of 2023. This is one destination that was on our bucket list for quite some time. My stay in Kolkata for more than 3 years did not see it happen so we were determined to knock it off this time. We spent two days in the Sundarbans exploring the wilderness and the mystic charm of this destination.

For a high-level overview of our entire trip, read our article

Kolkata & Sundarbans – Trip Overview

Introduction to Sundarbans

The Sundarbans is the largest mangrove ecosystem in the world. The name, Sundarbans, itself literally means ‘beautiful forest’ in Bengali, the local language. The ecosystem is now one of the World’s Natural Wonders and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The entire forest area is divided across India and Bangladesh with more than 60% under the latter's jurisdiction. This mangrove is unique in that it supports a large, viable population of Asia’s largest predator, the tiger. Sundarban mangrove forest is located on the Bay of Bengal’s Ganga, Brahmaputra, and Meghna deltas.  There are about 102 islands within India out of which 58 are inhabited by humans and the remaining are reserved for tigers.

While the tiger is the primary point of interest, the forests are home to a number of other animals and birds along with varied flora. The entire region is divided into three zones - the peripheral zone is where most resorts/hotels are set up, the buffer zone is where the tourists venture to, and the core forest area is reserved for wildlife to live peacefully.

For more details on the region, explore the official webpage of West Bengal Tourism

Preparations and Planning

Unlike other wildlife reserves, planning a trip to the Sundarbans is a bit different. The reason is that there is no on-call safari available for the forests. This is because these forests are deep and wide and hence it takes considerable travel from where you land from your vehicle to the actual safari region. Hence you cannot just drive to the entry and take a ride. Also, you do not enter the forest directly but traverse on the sidelines to observe the habitat. Hence you need to book your Boat safaris ahead of your visit. It is recommended you engage one of the tour operators for a smooth experience.

Available Options for Tours

Tour Operators offer multiple options primarily based on the number of days you plan to visit. While you can do a day trip, it becomes hectic especially if you are traveling from Kolkata (which you would in most probability). We recommend a two-day tour which starts from Kolkata on the first day and drops you back in the late evening of the next day. Longer tours are available but we believe they would get boring after a time unless you are really into bird watching.

While most multi-day safaris would have you stay in a hotel or similar accommodation, we had chosen a traditional organic hut stay. Also, you have the option to opt for houseboats which adds another additional charm to your trip. They offer both air-conditioned and non-air-conditioned accommodations on the boats which anchor mid-water for a night of experience. We were traveling with a kid and hence were not sure of how he would react to that setup.

Based on some research, we worked with Tour De Sundarbans for planning our trip. We booked our package ahead of time which required an advance deposit of about 50% of the tour price. The cost of the trip was about 4200 INR per head and kids up to the age of 5 were allowed for free. This was a packaged tour that included a pickup and drop in Kolkata.

Arriving to Sundarbans

The guide, a gentleman named Om, called us on the previous day of the trip to finalize the logistics. They offered two pickup points one of which was the Science City. We picked this one as it was just across our hotel. The bus (more of a minibus) was right on time at 9 AM for our pickup and we boarded along with the rest of the group. It was a good mix of culture and regions and we were sure to have good fun along the way. As soon as we boarded, Om offered us our individual water bottles and breakfast.

The distance from Kolkata to the Sundarbans is about 98 kilometers which took us about three and a half hours. We took 2 half-hour breaks en route to allow for bio-breaks and snacking. We also picked some snacks on the way for later. It was an uneventful journey until we deboarded for finally starting the exciting part of the journey.

Five Unique Experiences in Sundarbans

Sundarbans have a lot to offer and carry a mysterious charm for visitors. A lot has been written and spoken about this destination but that surprise remains to be explored firsthand. We have tried to bucketize our experience across five areas in the order of how we experienced each of them.

Life in an Eco Village & Organic Hut

We had chosen to stay for the night at an organic hut within the Eco Village campus of our tour operator. They have a few cottages within a large campus built using the traditional style. These are mud cottages with minimal amenities to bring you closer to nature. While they also offer a couple of airconditioned rooms, we wanted the true rustic experience. The entire setup brings to life a rural village. There are cows being milked, traditional stoves (chulhas) being fired, and greenery at its fullest.

After we disembarked from the bus, we boarded a boat to bring us to the village. The village is located on the outer periphery of the actual forest area. It took the boat about 2 hours to approach the makeshift jetty at the Eco Village. The ride was smooth and as the boat entered the deep waters of the river, the introduction to Sundarbans by Om (our guide) was listened to with all sincerity. Once we reached the village we were allotted a cottage each.

The cottages had a bed with a mosquito net and an attached washroom. While bugs were a concern but not something totally unmanageable. The staff came in and smoked the room to drive away the mosquitos. However, the kid still spent some anxious (in a funny way) moments being afraid of the lizards. This all ended up making the stay memorable.

Lunch is served as soon as you settle in your rooms. The food served is basic yet filling and there are decent options for vegetarians to look for (do not look for choices but one item that would help you sustain). Tea is served throughout the day. In the evening you are served snacks and tea after which you proceed to have some fun.

The calmness of a Row Boat and Sunset Views

Once we had our lunches and evening snacks, we proceeded for the row boat tour. The entire group is divided into smaller bunches because of the capacity of these boats. Generally, they accommodate around 10 folks per boat so we had two boats for our group. These slow-moving, manually propelled boats are a true medium for embracing calm and peace. As the boat left the shores and navigated into the creeks and channels taking us into the lap of nature, we were mesmerized by the beauty of nature.

We saw a large number of birds (which our guide would promptly point out) throughout the evening. The guide also introduced us to a variety of mangrove trees in the region. After about 30 minutes of rowing the guide announced our arrival at the viewpoint (or the point where the boat will be stationed) for a pristine view of the setting sun.

The view was definitely mesmerizing and one of the best sunsets we have witnessed. The fact that not all tour packages/providers include this and that there are so many such creeks to choose from, ensured that we weren't hustling for our spot in a crowd. We were able to enjoy the sunset in peace on our boat hovering in the silent waters in the midst of dense peaceful forests.

Stepping on the Marshy Mangrove Land

This is a grey area in my view and may not be entirely allowed as per the rules hence tread carefully. The guide offered us a walk in the marsh terrain of the Mangrove forests. While this was an exciting idea, it had its own risks. Once out of the boat, you are in the terrain on a different animal altogether. While this may give you a sighting, but in a totally different way! Also, the fact that a marsh terrain pulls you in came with its own challenges.

However, a few of us took the plunge and walked on the land. It was surely a difficult walk with our legs being pulled inside the mud - most of us had it until the length of our knees. Definitely a walk worth remembering and in some ways worth the risk (debatable still). Some more adventurous folks did try to venture into the depth of the forests but we quickly returned to our boat. The boat brought us back for the dinner after a short ride.

Later after dinner, the rowing boat took us back for a silent ride into the waters to allow us to experience the jungle under the dim light of the moon.

The Boat Safari - In Search for the Beast

This is why you are there right - to set eyes on the jungle's beast from the comfort of a boat. Unlike most other wildlife safaris (Thekkady in Tamil Nadu is one known exception - Periyar National Park – A Jungle Sojourn : South India V) Sundarbans only allow you to traverse through water for the safari. This is because entire islands have been reserved for the jungle cat so that they can flourish in an uninterrupted environment. We boarded the boat early in the morning (6 AMish which is literally the night for us) on the second day of our stay. Since the sun rises early in the region (east remember) it was definitely not too early for their standards. The boat ride takes almost the entire day and hence becomes quite a settlement.

The boats are self-contained vessels and have facilities to cook and serve food. These are custom-designed first-principle boats made using crude technology. The running fuel is diesel-powered generators and the navigation happens through rudders connected to steering through ropes. They have washrooms to allow for an extended stay. To add to the luxury, there are a few beddings on the lower deck in case someone wants to sneak in a quick nap. In addition to the beds, the lower deck has the engine, washroom, and kitchen. The upper deck has the "captain's cabin" and the seating area.

Trade Ties Happening Live

One thing that we got to see in Sundarbans which was our first was live trading ships anchored in the water. The guide took us into some details. Bangladesh is a big importer of ash from India and hence Bangladeshi ships enter Indian waters through this river to pick consignments. These are relatively big ships and hence managing in the river is really interesting. When they enter Indian territories, they raise Indian Tricolor alongside Bangladeshi Flag and that remains so until they leave Indian jurisdiction. This allows for easier identification and categorization by customs authorities.

The Safari Experience - Key Sites

The day of safari is long and tiring - even though you are relaxing on the boat. You spend every moment in the hope of sighting a tiger and any buzz of excitement takes your hopes high. The broad flow of events happens as below.

Starting the Safari

• We boarded the boat at around 6:15 AM through the make-shift (if it can be called even that) jetty at the Eco Village. We had checked out before boarding the boat and took our luggage with us.
• The next stop was at a local village where a few ladies boarded the bus - these would be our cooks for the day and would serve local delicacies throughout the ride.
• Once we were set with the passengers, we next stopped at the forest office for our permits. Our guide had already taken pictures of our ids on the previous day and had someone work on the formalities. Our permit was ready when we arrived.

Into the Jungle

• Next, we visited another island (Sajnekhali) where they validated our permit and allowed us entry into the buffer zone. Tourists are only allowed in the buffer zone and only the local fishermen get to enter the core. The buffer zone gets busy with tourist activities and hence core is where fishing can happen. There is a watch tower on this island for the enthusiastic folks on board.
• Once we entered the buffer zone, the beauty of nature came to life and we could see the dense forests up close. The boat maneuvered through the creeks and canals (some wide and some narrow) towards the interior of the jungles. On the way, we saw a number of animals (none of them tiger) including deer, boars, and crocodiles.
• Our next stop was Dobanki Camp. We deboarded the boat and walked along a caged canopy through the dense forests. It is a more than half a kilometer long walkway, at a height of 20 feet from the ground which is entirely protected by a grill and strong net in the form of a canopy to protect visitors from the wildlife attack and is frequently well maintained. This Canopy Walk takes you into the core area of the forest where you could be walking along with wild animals. There was a watch tower to offer a view from the vantage point across an artificial freshwater lake. The forest department has created freshwater lakes across the entire region to provide animals with potable water as the saltwater of the river is known to cause issues.
• Next, we stopped at Sudhanyakhali Watch Tower. This was again a similar experience though the jungle was less dense on this one.

The Journey Back

• With this, we completed our safari and it was time to return
• The boat took us back to our mainland where we originally boarded for us to transfer to our buses for the return journey. It took about 4 hours of boat ride to get there.
• We were on the bus by 6 PM and started our journey to Kolkata.
• After 3 hours of the bus ride, we reached Kolkata. The bus driver was gracious enough to take a short detour to drop us at the hotel rather than the standard drop point.

Lessons Learned and Things to Remember

It was a great experience and we ended the journey relishing every moment and experience. Below are some things to keep in mind when you embark on a Sundarban trip.

• Carry your identity cards as documentation is validated for the permit. Generally, a photo on the mobile may be enough but still having one is better.
• Carry snacks and water (if you are a stickler for bottled one) from the mainland itself i.e. once you get down from the bus. Once you are on the boat, the only food is the traditional style fixed menu buffets.
• The tea served is one without milk and there are almost no options for a desi-masala-chai for the two days you are there. So prepare yourself accordingly, if you are like us who depend on their morning tea to get the day started.
• If you are wary of mosquitos, carry some repellant creams to ward off the flying "monsters".
• The rooms are functional but basic - do not expect electric kettles, hair dryers, or even towels. Carry your toiletries, towels, and slippers.
• Be friendly and open to co-travelers - this generally is not a private tour and you may end up with new friendships as you enjoy the journey together.
• Be aware of pickup and drop-off points and the corresponding timings.
• Follow rules as they are there for your safety.