Here lies an untold story, a fragment of history known to very few. It's quite possible that I may be the first to shed light on this intriguing site. What appears today as a bustling commercial street in Tirunelveli Town, known as Theppa Kulam Street or Satyamoorti Street, was once a serene Agraharam. Nestled within this bustling thoroughfare is a modest temple dedicated to Lord Ganesha.
At first glance, this temple may seem like any other small roadside shrine, easily overlooked by hurried passersby. However, it carries a fascinating narrative that bridges the gap between the Gujarati Community and Tirunelveli.
The Gujarati community of Tamil Nadu has a rich history and tradition. Kheda, a district near Ahmedabad in the Gujarat state, is home to the Khedawal Gujaratis, a Brahmin community with a distinctive identity. In the early 18th century CE, a group of Khedawal Gujaratis migrated to Tamil Nadu, leaving a legacy that intertwines their fate with this southern land. The exact period and reason for their migration remain veiled in history, giving rise to different versions and theories about their journey.
The migration primarily found roots in Thanjavur, and thus, the community came to be affectionately known as Thanjavur Gujaratis. However, a few families settled in Tirunelveli instead of Thanjavur. While some families settled here in the beginning itself, others arrived later, establishing their presence in the town. This historical movement had a profound impact, granting Tirunelveli its own community of Gujarati Khedawal members.
In the Gujarati language, the word "Utaro" loosely translates to "guest house." Wherever the Khedawal communities ventured in the 18th or 19th centuries, they thoughtfully arranged for Utaros, providing lodgings for their fellow community members during pilgrimages. In Chennai's George Town area, a functioning Utaro still stands, about which I have previously written in detail. Much like that one, in bygone days, there were active Utaros in other Tamil Nadu towns like Thanjavur, Kumbakonam, and even in Tirunelveli.
The photograph you see in this article captures the original Utaro, although it has remained inactive for several decades. The property is now legally owned by a specific Khedawal family. In the heyday of its existence, alongside the Utaro, they constructed this modest Ganesha temple. Grand ceremonies were likely held here in the past, but in recent years, even these occasions have dwindled, with rarely a single daily pooja. Today, this century-old Ganesha temple remains unknown and neglected.
Adding an amusing twist to the tale, the word "Utaro" is sometimes written or pronounced as "Uttara" in Tamil. This subtle difference carries a distinct meaning - north. In the future, historians might conjure up the notion that this particular Ganesha deity was transported from North India to this town, hence earning the title of "northern Ganesha." As history often takes unexpected turns, we can only speculate.
My other articles about Khedawal Gujaratis:
The Gujaratis of Chennai and their temple
Kolu tradition of Gujaratis
The Historic Hindu Theosophical School
Viswanathapuram
Happy travelling.
