The night wasn’t so great as I seemed to have slept very little, waking up 3-4 times to check the watch and whether it was time to get up. It wasn’t… whilst I had the second air mattress fixed and the air stayed inside, it was still uncomfortable. Maybe I pumped them up too hard. More experimenting is needed. 

I got up and luckily had my little wash house / toilet in the little park. That was very convenient. I did some initial blog writing, packed my stuff and Headed to the ferry which was only a 5min cycle over some fancy bridge. The next ferry was at 9.40am, time to do some breakfast shopping in the nearby shops which mainly had touristy stuff. I picked some rice balls, some sweet filled rice cake and some mange tout, just in case plus some water for the ferry. 

I desperately needed to charge my devices as even my power bank was on 50% and my wife router and phone only had one more charge. This means I can go one more day with my tech. It’s current charge. My earphones were giving me trouble either not charging properly or misbehaving. I reset them and re-paired them with my phone. That seems to have done the trick. The short ride on the ferry was uneventful and only took 35min. Charging my tech on the boat was slow at only 100V. Oh well.

I arrived back on Japan mainland, picked my route and was immediately greeted by a huge uphill. But at least there was no wind, which gave some comfort. The Road along towns provided a different picture to the usual rice fields as they had all turned into potato fields with many farmers already busy harvesting. And this in April! The climate must be very different here as it was harvesting season not only for potatoes but for onions too, the smell of drying onions increased over the last few days, only rudely interrupted by the smell of diesel fumes from the many lorries and vans. Petrol is still so cheap here compared to Europe, with 1L costing around £1 or around ¥160. 

The journey today was one of my least enjoyable as it was mainly on A roads or dual carriage ways. Google maps couldn’t find any good roads, neither on Pedestrian setting nor pushing it towards detours. Oh well, it had to be done. I didn’t even fully realise that I was going to go 75km, so far my longest cycle. 

I had to watch the road like a hawk, as there were many potholes and the white lines that mark the side of the road provided an ever present challenge as they are raised high enough to derail my tyres. I had to always cross them consciously or even stay on top of them when the road was too narrow. I had many annoying close encounters with cars that just passed by too closely and never seemed to be using indicators to warn traffic behind them that I’m on the road. I also saw many people on their phones and it is totally legal here in Japan to watch TV whilst driving and most modern cars have a TV right in their dashboard. Eventually, I turned on my two red lights at the rear of my bike but was also painfully aware that I hadn’t charged them in a while. Despite all the challenges, there were was an amazing coastline to marvel at when I could and to indulge in some of the usual treats like strawberries and even a small jam-filled croissant on the go.

This whole thing continued for another 60 so Kilometers. At some point I needed to pick my final stop and I chose an Onsen and nearby park in Kushikino, hoping that the opening times are accurate. Just 10km. Effie my final destination it started to rain and I had to stop, get my rain gear out, rearrange my lights, change sunglasses from dark to mood limiting orange and continue the journey. 

I got to the Onsen just around 5.30 and it was super cheap with ¥450. I headed in and there was only one more person with me in the bath. I quickly looked for some charging opportunities and the nearby drying up and relax room had just that, phew. I hooked up my devices as they were all on their last leg. The Onsen was amazing, just all I needed with one hot bath, no cold pool but a cold tap. After bathing I went back to the rest room, had some water, stretched and chilled out. I was pretty knackered from the journey.

After the Onsen I headed to the park near the ocean front. Sadly it didn’t turn out to be a great spot but something told me to just keep cycling. Eventually, I circumnavigates the little half-island and got back towards the harbour, with an amazing spot for my tent, with lights, ocean waves crushing onto the rocks underneath and a toilet 8min walk. Yeh! Life can be so simple.

After changing, I headed into town, walking again to give my bum a break. As I was now further away than planned with my new tent spot, I had to also find a new restaurant. I picked a Japanese style fish restaurant some 1.5km away or 20min walk. The streets were dark, with only few street lights here and there. Thankfully google maps got me where I needed to be, or did it… I ended up in a restaurant that wasn’t quite the one I picked, but one that stood out as I approached it. I went in and picked a place by the bar. There was only me on the bar and behind some curtains another group of men.

I ordered some food, which took some time as the menue was in Japanese and google translate wasn’t up to the task. I pointed to some pictures on my phone and the chef understood. As I kept struggling with my phone, speaking my little Japanese and telling the, that I eat everything but meat, one of the members from the group of men approached me and struck up a conversation. After a few minutes, I was surrounded by all 3 of them and they insisted that I eat not alone but join their table. 

It turned out they were all medical doctors, with the most senior one in his early sixties, one in his early fifties and on around 40. None of them looked they age and all of them could speak some English. Our conversation topics ranged from work to health, to sports and that in Japan holiday is a precious good because most people have little of it and the one they have, often don’t use it. Two of the three doctors hadn’t travelled to Europe and only one had been to Italy and Austria. I invited them to come and visit London if they ever get a chance. We ordered some amazing food, of which I would have had no idea it was on the menu. I had a big salad with seafood and a grilled fish and ended with a bowl of noodles, apparently the way to end a drinking session here in Japan. I also had a refreshing glass of beer, which was much better than having 3, like the night before. I felt very happy that I ended up in this restaurant as the company was very pleasant and I didn’t even need to use google translate as we all muddled through the conversations with the little English they had and the little Japanese I have. Gosh, I want to get better at Japanese! We also exchanged business cards and became online friends. They left me with a note not to go up towards Fukuoka where I would end my journey using the coastal roads but to go via the mountains. I would even get to see the place where Japan was birthed, by the goddess Amaterasu, in Takachiho. I shall check this out as I know that the mountains here are beautiful…and steep!

As it was time to pay I ordered my bill but again, the group would not allow me to pay despite my strong insistence. I didn’t want to be disrespectful and turn down their hospitality or generosity. Happy, full and somewhat exhausted I headed back to my tent to get the best nights sleep so far. I slept through till 6.30am with the sun greeting me. Time to dry my clothes and plan the day.

On this journey

I have no streamers to offer up.

Instead, dear gods, if it pleases you,

may you take this maple brocade 

of Mount Tamuke’s colours.