March 17th 2023

How to Climb a 14er in Winter | Tips for Safe Ascents

Alex Derr
March 17, 2023
12:40 am

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Most Colorado peak baggers make their ascents during the summer when the average summit temperature regularly hits 65 degrees. In the Winter season, things couldn’t be more different. Temperatures plummit to -10 and -20 F on a regular basis, with more wind, storms, and variable conditions difficult to predict. In addition, routes are covered in snow and ice, avalanches threaten from above, and the threat of hypothermia is ever-present. Why would anyone want to climb a winter 14er?

The rewards are well worth it: solitude on usually crowded trails, epic views of white, snow-capped peaks in all directions, and the confidence and joy that comes from the challenge of winter mountaineering. If these are things you seek, here’s a starter guide to help you learn how to climb a winter 14er safely and successfully. To jump ahead to a section of interest, click a link in the table of contents below.

Why is Climbing Winter 14ers so Difficult and Dangerous?

Before we discuss how to make it up a 14er in January through March, let’s discuss what you’ll be dealing with on the mountain. There are four major risks to address with winter 14ers:

I. Cold and Wind: Hypothermia and Frostbite

The peaks are much colder during the winter months, but they are also windier on average. While calm days do happen, more often than not there will be strong winds during your climb. Together, the cold and wind create a major risk of hypothermia and frostbite while climbing. Those who go without the proper clothing risk serious injury or death.

II. Snow and Ice: Slips and Falls

Many 14er scrambling routes are blown free of snow during the winter. However, there are also many areas that become icy and slippery for unsuspecting climbers. While microspikes, an ice axe or crampons can prevent a fall and improve traction, they require significant practice to use properly – or they may actually make you less safe in the short term.

III. Snow: Slides and Avalanches

The biggest threat in the winter months are avalanches: massive slides of snow, rock, and ice on unstable slopes. While they’re most common following snowstorms and wind events, they can occur on any snow-covered slope. There are a handful of 14ers with very limited avalanche risk along the route. However, anyone who plans to spend significant time in the mountains during the winter should get trained, get the gear, and regularly check the conditions to ensure they stay safe and don’t put others in danger.

IV. Snow: Navigation and Getting Lost

Navigation and route-finding are much more difficult in winter. Snow will cover much of the trail and hide it from view. On busy peaks, people will create a trench along the route to follow over time, but you should always have the navigation skill needed to use a map and compass and double-check your location instead of relying on the path left by others. If you attempt a more difficult peak in winter, you may have no path to follow – making it very easy to become disoriented and lost in the midst of the white, snow-covered landscape.

V. Other Risks: Exhaustion, Dehydration, AMS

Don’t forget about typical 14er risks and challenges – they still all apply. Altitude sickness can strike and cause headache, nausea, confusion and fatigue. Those without the right physical training can quickly become exhausted – and dehydration can strike anyone who doesn’t bring enough water. However, in winter, all of these threats are amplified by the cold, ice, wind, and snow. Water is harder to drink because it freezes more easily. Snow is harder to move across, so you become exhausted more quickly. The effects of altitude sickness become more acute when you are already exhausted, cold, and dehydrated.

Morale of the Story: Winter 14ers Have Less Margin for Risk

You will move more slowly when climbing a 14er in winter – and what might be an inconvenience during the summer can become catastrophic in winter. Give yourself lots of extra time and flexibility when creating plans for winter 14ers. For example, while you might try to sneak in a climb during summer before a storm rolls in the next morning, I would suggest moving your trip in the winter.

How to Climb a Winter 14er Safely and Successfully

If you are determined to face these risks and climb a 14er in winter, take care. Here are eight things you should do and keep in mind to ensure you are properly prepared and ready for the challenge. Always remember to turn back if things become questionable – the mountain will still be there another day to climb.

I. Researching and Picking a Peak and Route

Most 14ers are not appropriate for a first-time winter ascent. In fact, many 14ers that are relatively safe and easy in summer become treacherous peaks in winter due to nefarious avalanche risk on their slopes. For example, Grays Peak is an easy class one hike in summer, but the route in winter passes through numerous avalanche paths. Here are four of the best winter 14ers and routes for those new to the experience. They aren’t too long and have very little avalanche risk. While no peak has zero risk, these are usually okay in all but the most extreme conditions (which is why it is still a good idea to check the avalanche forecast).

1. Quandary Peak - East Ridge

The winter trailhead for Quandary Peak is only a few hundred feet below the normal trailhead, so the route is essentially no longer in winter than in summer. There is one variation that keeps you on the ridge at the tree line instead of veering left along it side – make sure you follow it to stay out of avalanche terrain. This is a busy peak in winter, so you won’t be alone if climbing on a weekend – however, parking is much easier than in the summer.

Click here for route info →

2. Mount Bierstadt - West Slopes

Mount Bierstadt is another relatively easy winter 14er – the closest on the list to Denver. The summer trailhead closes on Guanella Pass, adding 2-3 miles to your route round-trip. However, it is fun to do this normally busy climb and get a secluded experience instead. More experienced climbers can consider adding on the Sawtooth if they have the proper climbing and mountaineering gear and experience.

Click here for route info →

3. Mount Elbert - East Ridge

Mount Elbert, Colorado’s tallest summit, is a relatively safe climb in the winter season. The broad east ridge is free from significant avalanche terrain and is popular among backcountry skiers and snowshoers. It is a longer route with more elevation gain than Quandary Peak and Mount Bierstadt and is quieter as a result. On some days you might be one of the only people on this route. I recommend it after you have done one of the other two options on this list first.

Click here for route info →

II. Find and Bring a Good Partner

Many people enjoy climbing summer 14ers alone – but the winter is a different story. Emergencies are more frequent during the winter, emergency responses are slower, and death comes much more quickly. Bringing a climbing partner is essential during this time of year – especially if you are new to the experience.

However, it is important to find a partner with proper decision-making judgement and experience or they may actually be more of a hinderance than help.

Here are some tips for finding the right climbing partner:

Visit the 14ers.com forum or facebook group and make a post looking for partners
Reach out to friends or friends of friends they can vouch for.
Go to your local climbing or bouldering gym and look for friends there.
Join the Colorado Mountain Club and sign up for a trip.
Attend a 14ers Happy Hour event – they are posted often on facebook.

Don’t just pick anyone – I recommend connecting via Zoom before you climb. Chat a bit about your climbing experience, goals, and priorities while out on the mountain. Make sure align before you commit – never meet for the first time at the trailhead.

Working with Partners and Group Decision-Making

Even with the right partners, decision-making isn’t always easy. Different levels of risk tolerance, competing interests or goals, and the blinding effect of summit fever can all lead to disagreements over what to do in a given situation. Some research suggests that the optimal group size for mountain trips is three – this way, anytime one person becomes irrational, the other two can outvote them. However, it avoids the group-think dynamics that develop in larger groups. Here are a few other tips:

Never separate the group unless you have no other options. It is a factor in many SAR missions.
Maintain open communication with your partner and share how you are feeling.
Talk through decisions and try to listen with an open mind. Focus on evidence – not emotions.
Be mindful of these other decision-making traps:
- Social Proof: ‘We should climb because another group is climbing.’
- Familiarity: ‘I know this area well so we can take bigger risk.’
- Tunnel Vision: ‘Being so focused on the goal you ignore important risks.’
- Debbie Downer Concern: ‘Taking unwise risks to avoid being a kill-joy.’

III. Packing the Right Gear and Clothing

You’ll need special gear and additional clothing for winter ascents. Let’s start with the ten essentials – the ten most important categories to consider while packing.

Navigation Gear
Sun Protection
First Aid Kit
Extra Food
Extra Water
Extra Layers
Headlamp & Batteries
Emergency Shelter
Knife or Multi-tool
Fire Starting Kit

There are other types of gear you’ll need as well. Here’s some of the most important things to bring with you for winter 14ers:

Insulated Hiking Boots

Normal hiking boots don’t provide enough insulation and warmth for the cold conditions you’ll come across on a winter 14er. Get a dedicated pair of winter hiking boots. They have better traction for ice and snow, and they’ll definitely keep your toes warmer than something you wear in summer. Stay away from shoes of any kind; without a high ankle they won’t keep snow out and your socks will get wet.