From cool pizza places (P-za) to fine-dining establishments (Bofors Hotel) to lakeside fish shacks (Antes Hamnbod), high chairs abounded, making us feel comfortable and welcome to bring our toddler everywhere. And at some lunch buffets in small-town restaurants, kids under four ate free. Plus, padded stainless steel changing tables were in virtually every restroom I entered, in addition to accessibility setups).

In Stockholm, we had a giant-by-European-standards room at the wonderfully located Story Hotel Riddargatan — JDV by Hyatt, complete with the limousine of pack ’n plays (we noticed the travel cribs were all super long). Here, Indah had plenty of room to entertain herself by rolling my Away suitcase around the airy, art-riddled room. We all enjoyed the breakfast spread (a standard comprehensive perk of every accommodation), thanks to lots of kid- and adult-friendly options, and Indah looked adorable in the Scandinavian minimalist high chair. At other meals, there were, of course, crowd-pleasing Swedish meatballs with gravy, lingonberries, and mashed potatoes, a meal she happily scarfed down several times.

Even at the gorgeous new Hôtel Reisen — The Unbound Collection by Hyatt (where us parents took turns in the sauna and Tjärn forest pond–inspired cold pool while Indah napped), they were gracious and friendly to their little guest, providing a chic black crib with mini pillow and duvet.

Getting around the city is a breeze — some of our Uber drivers even surprisingly pulled out baby seats. All buses, streetcars, and trains allot space for pregnant women and those with young kids, and subway stations are clean and welcoming, each boasting original murals, art, and installations. The grotto stations are especially cool, Kungsträdgården in particular.

Fans of Pippi Longstocking and kids with big imaginations will go crazy for Junibacken, an engaging children’s museum that’s like the Scandinavian literary version of Disneyland — with free chocolate milk on the way out. Indah was captivated and would have happily spent days exploring every inch of the play worlds devoted to author Astrid Lindgren’s theatrical stories. The farm animals at the family-friendly nature reserve and 18th-century manor Nyckelvikens also entertained her. And we didn’t make it, but the amusement park Gröna Lund has a ride that toddlers can take without their parents, plus many more tame, fun options with no height limit.

Out in the countryside, I appreciated the well-marked hikes that meant we always knew exactly the length (and difficulty) of each walk. And many of the roads cutting through dense forests had beautiful places to pull over and rest, sometimes even at a lake with a tidy outhouse and sandy beach to dig in. But perhaps best of all were the vast outdoor spaces. Indah adored running across endless grass with no traffic in sight, but dozens of fat ducks, picking up “baby” pinecones on a stroll through the woods and munching on apples picked straight from the orchard.

 major highlight came when Indah reached out and giddily touched a reindeer’s velvety antlers while at Skansen, the world’s oldest open-air museum, which also features the Baltic Sea Science Center and living exhibits on each part of Sweden, including lots of animals. I realized at that moment that it was the first time I’d seen a reindeer myself, and I felt excited, too. Indah’s joy was contagious.

In Sweden, it felt natural, easy, and accepted to be traveling with our child, which is not always the case around the world. For me, seeing the country through my child’s eyes helped reclaim some of the magic of travel that we can lose when we grow up, and that was perhaps the best gift of all.