PIDURANGALA ROCK HIKE
07 Feb 2024 || SOUTH ASIA | SRI LANKA
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It’s just past sunrise and I’m sat, kind of sweaty, softly gazing northward from atop Sigiriya’s famous Lion Rock. Pidurangala Rock, a symmetric hill carpeted in dense, wooded wilderness, draws my eye. Protruding dramatically from the otherwise flat, seemingly endless jungle-carpeted plains of central Sri Lanka, it’s an oddly striking sight. At the summit, I can just about spot the shifting specs of hikers, a bit like ants, circling the exposed rocky peak while the misty clouds swirl the hilltop.
‘I want to go there’ I immediately uttered aloud (I’m pretty basic like that), despite being super gross from my current climb up the adjacent and more famous Sigiriya landmark (even early in the morning, Sri Lanka is *warm*). So, the next morning, off we went to the Pidurangala Rock hike.
A lot of people, especially backpackers in Sri Lanka, choose to hike Pidurangala Rock purely because it’s cheaper than Sigiriya Rock – claiming that it’s just the same, but cheaper. But is it actually better, or even comparable? Pidurangala Rock is a sacred Buddhist site and is certainly worthy of your time, but with the opportunity to only visit one site, what do you choose: Pidurangala Rock or Sigiriya?
Here, we discuss everything you need to know about Pidurangala, including how demanding the hike is, how much it costs, parking and transport, sunrise views, best time of day to visit, and most importantly, whether the Pidurangala Rock hike is comparable to Sigiriya Rock!
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IN THIS GUIDE //
Pidurangala Rock Hike
WHAT IS PIDURANGALA ROCK?
PIDURANGALA ROCK ENTRANCE FEE
GETTING TO PIDURANGALA ROCK
HIKING PIDURANGALA ROCK
– HIKING ROUTE
– THE SUMMIT
– IS PIDURANGALA ROCK HARD TO CLIMB?
WHAT TO WEAR
BEST TIME TO HIKE PIDURANGALA
– THE BEST MONTH TO VISIT
What to bring
Can you hike pidurangala and sigiriya in one day
PIDURANGALA VS. SIGIRIYA
WHERE TO STAY
FINAL THOUGHTS – PIDURANGALA ROCK HIKE
WHAT IS PIDURANGALA ROCK?
Pidurangala is a 200-metre-tall volcanic hill, rising 340 metres above sea level up out of the jungle. It is a little under two kilometres north of Sigiriya Rock, situated in the lowlands of central Sri Lanka, smack bang in the middle of an area dubbed the ‘Cultural Triangle’. This region, famed for its historic significance, is dotted with stupas and ancient cities, four of which are UNESCO designated sites.
Beyond being a tourist site, famed for its panoramic views, Pidurangala is locally known for being a centre of religious significance. Pidurangala Sigiri Rajamaha Viharaya, a Buddhist temple, sits at the rock base, and a huge 12-metre reclining Buddha resides in a cave part way up. The area is an active place of worship, so be aware of your clothing and noise levels at all times.
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PIDURANGALA ROCK ENTRANCE FEE
The entrance fee for non-nationals to Pidurangala Rock, in 2024, is 1000 LKR for adults, 500 LKR per child between 6 and 12, and free for anyone younger. This is currently payable only in cash at Pidurangala Sigiri Rajamaha Viharaya Temple, located at the base of the rock, after passing through a tall white archway.
Someone will take your fee from the building to the right after entering and give you a little brochure which they stamp. This is your ticket (not that it was checked at any point further along the route or on exit).
GETTING TO PIDURANGALA ROCK
Pidurangala Rock is located a little under three kilometres to the north of the centre of Sigiriya. If you are self-driving, search for “Vehicle Park of Pidurangala Rock & Temple” on Google Maps. This is where you leave your vehicle, free of charge, located about a minute walk from “Pidurangala Rock Temple Ticket Office” where you purchase your ticket.
We drove to Pidurangala Rock in our trusty little blue tuktuk and turned off from Sigiriya Road at 7.959605, 80.765855, before taking the road in from the south. As a result of some overnight rain, the unpaved road was wet and muddy. In places, water filled large potholes dotted across the road and I was scared we’d tip our tuktuk (it’s hard to gauge the depth!). Despite this, we didn’t have much trouble and watched other tuktuks and motorbikes drive the route quite happily.
Note: if you walk or cycle to Pidurangala early in the morning, be aware of an increased chance of seeing elephants at that time of day (we didn’t see any on our way in though). Some hotels even have signs outside saying when the last elephant sighting was (it was zero days for ours!). If you do see an elephant, keep your distance. They can flip a tuktuk easily (I was living in fear of this!), so respect their personal space.
There are plenty of tuktuk drivers available in Sigiriya which your hotel can arrange for you. Alternatively, there are loads hanging around the junction at 7.950626, 80.759403.
PIDURANGALA QUICK FACTS
Height: 200 metres
Opening hours: 5am-6pm daily
Cost: 1000 LKR per adult (12 and above) in 2024
Hike length: around an hour, round trip
Hike difficulty: moderate but short (about 1 mile)
Nearest town: Sigiriya
Best month to visit: Dec – March
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HIKING PIDURANGALA ROCK
The Pidurangala Rock hike has been described as everything from an ‘intensely difficult scramble, not for the average person’, to a ‘casual 20-minute jaunt, suitable for toddlers’. So, which is it? Below, we’ve given an overview of the route, information on the scramble and summit, plus how fit we think you should be to take it on!
⋅ PIDURANGALA ROCK HIKE ROUTE ⋅
The hike commences at the entrance to the small Buddhist Pidurangala Temple, marked by a white gate up about ten stairs. Usually, you should remove your shoes while in the temple grounds. However, as it had rained, we were told not to by the attendants because the ground was wet. Following the obvious path, the hike starts with some easy to navigate, clear, well-crafted steps and a some flat sections (there are a few different route options here, but all end up at the same place).
As you slowly traverse the rock clockwise from the western side, the steps turn more into a steep path of uneven rocks, until finally, there is a 12-metre reclining Buddha in a cave near the summit, with extensive views to the east. This is around 20 minutes into the walk.
After the Buddha, the path continues clockwise, with various rocky obstacles that you must use your hands to traverse. There are occasional ropes and a few sections where you must pull yourself up between crevasses and shimmy across skinny rocks. This takes about 5-10 minutes.
The route out is the same as the route in and the round trip from the base to the top is about one mile.
⋅ THE SUMMIT OF PIDURANGALA ROCK ⋅
After the rock scramble, you emerge from underneath an immense boulder with an immediate, unobstructed view of Sigiriya Rock Fortress in the distance. It’s an incredible sight and we sat here, in the shade of the rock, for several minutes.
Continuing up behind the enormous boulder, the actual plateau on the summit comes into sight, with just a small group of trees to shelter under. There are no barriers anywhere up here, so be wary if you bring kids.
Monkeys are commonly seen at the summit. They will try to steal your stuff, so be careful (one attempted to grab my bag and another kind of hissed at me). There are also a group of very friendly dogs.
Also, there’s a little bit of trash at the summit which definitely looks to be left there by tourists. Don’t be one of those dicks – take your stuff with you.
⋅ IS PIDURANGALA ROCK HARD TO CLIMB? ⋅
Well, obviously fitness is a subjective issue, but I’m not that fit (I’m definitely no athlete and my body hates going up and down hills!). However, I personally found this hike really easy – we arrived at the reclining Buddha, near the top, in about 20 minutes without taking a proper break. People had put the fear of god into me about the scrambling/bouldering bit, but that was quick and easy too. Things to note:
In my mind, the hike is split into three – the short mostly flat bottom bit followed by some well-made, moss-covered steps, then the unrelenting slippery, spiralling middle; followed by the reclining Buddha and final scramble.
The main, uncompromising path slowly circles the rock and is reasonably steep and uneven. The ancient steps are carved from stone and are irregular, twisting, entwined with tree roots and not easy to navigate quickly. Any mention by people of the number of steps is going to be wrong – I mean there aren’t really steps for the most part, just a rugged corridor of uneven rocks!
There are no handrails and the route can get slippery when it’s wet (so, most of the time). Going down was actually more difficult because of the slipperiness – we actually saw somebody fall (they were fine).
The trail is very dark – the route is in dense jungle with little light penetrating the canopy, so early in the morning visibility is even less than you’d imagine. A benefit of this is that there is no direct sunlight, which keeps it cooler (although it’s incredibly humid still with no breeze – jungle style).
It’d be difficult to get lost – there is one main, obvious rocky set of steps to the summit.
There is a very short section at the top that involves some actual scrambling. You have to use both hands to navigate up and over large rocks (there are arrows pointing the way). This is honestly quite easy and there are even ropes to help in some sections (we saw small children doing it). However, if you are carrying a big camera, large bag or baby, it could be trickier. As with the steps up, the scramble would be more demanding if it was raining.
The hardest part is the motivation to hike because the route is not so scenic until you reach the reclining Buddha, where the forest opens up and you can see the vast jungle-plains stretching out for what appears to be forever.
It is a narrow trail and you’ll have to stop and wait for people to pass you on their way down. We went up just after sunrise, so everyone who had already watched the sunrise was heading down, meaning we often had to wait.
You may be approached in the parking area and asked if you want a guide, especially if it is darker. They’ll warn you that the route is difficult and slippery. In my opinion, this route definitely does not need a guide and having one will not make it any less slippery! It might be worth using one if you’re nervous, travelling solo and it’s dark. Otherwise, I’d skip it.
WHAT TO WEAR FOR THE PIDURANGALA ROCK HIKE
The hike begins passing through a Buddhist temple, so bring something to cover up any slightly more revealing clothing (no uncovered shoulders, knees etc.). Sarongs/scarves are available in a pinch at the entrance if you’ve forgotten something.
After the temple, any comfortable, athletic gear would be perfect for this route. Remember, it’s humid and sweaty – wicking materials are always preferable (goes for almost everywhere in Sri Lanka!).
No hats are allowed in the temple area but might be useful if you’re going to hang out on the summit for any length of time. Most of the walk is shaded, so a hat isn’t strictly necessary.
I have a friend who would hike this rock wearing flip flops, but she’s a bit crazy. We’d definitely recommend decent trainers that you’re happy hiking up hills in (no need for hiking boots). It’s a bit wet, uneven, muddy and you’ll have to traverse a bunch of rocks.
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BEST TIME TO HIKE PIDURANGALA
Lots and lots (and lots) of people head up to the summit of Pidurangala Rock for sunrise and sunset. This is obviously a very attractive option, with the potential for some extraordinary, glowing views across to Sigiriya Rock.
However, we preferred to start our hike *at* sunrise, which means you do not need a head torch for the awkward, slippery hike and everyone has left as you arrive. This also allowed us to spend about an hour or so at the summit with only a few other visitors. Although getting up early normally beats the tourist rush, in this particular location, that is not the case!
There have been reports of crowds and queues to get to the summit, especially through the scrambling section. Bottlenecks of tourists happen at the narrow bits of the hike and queues can be upwards of ten minutes or more at busy times. Be prepared if you are timing your hike for sunrise or sunset – it would suck to miss it by being stuck in a sweaty queue.
The other benefit of waiting until sunrise is that the roads to Pidurangala are easily visible. The quality of the access road in is sketchy, especially after any rain. It’s dark from the overhanging trees, unpaved, muddy, narrow and full of potholes. We drove a tuktuk down it and were glad we didn’t go in complete darkness! Arriving a little later means you can cycle or drive yourself to the car park without incident.
Sunset would also be a lovely time to visit Pidurangala Rock, but I personally would not want to hike down and drive out after dark – although it’s completely possible to do this and many people do.
⋅ THE BEST MONTH TO VISIT ⋅
Technically, the best season to hike Pidurangala Rock is in Sri Lanka’s winter season, between December and March, although the weather is always very changeable and you never know what you’re going to get! It’s certainly cooler during the winter months, which makes it a more comfortable hike.
We visited in December and experienced perfect, blue, sunny weather for the hour we were sat up at the summit, then some serious misty fog rolled in and we couldn’t really see much at all. Then it started raining. The weather completely changed in just a few minutes! Although, no matter when you visit, it’ll be warm (even if it rains!).
