THODDOO ISLAND, MALDIVES - A PHOTO GUIDE
30 Apr 2023 || MALDIVES
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Thoddoo is a fairly unique place when it comes to the inhabited Maldives islands. It’s primarily an agricultural hub and not geographically part of an atoll. Despite this, it’s an amazing holiday destination, with fruit farms, beaches, lapping turquoise water and a vibrant, hospitable community. It’s our favourite Island in the Maldives.
Choosing your Maldives island(s) is tricky – there are so many and they seem so alike at first glance. Here, we tell you everything we experienced on Thoddoo; what we loved, what we didn’t, with lots of photos to give you an impression of what the island feels like.
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THODDOO ISLAND
Thoddoo is a little larger than other islands we visited, meaning we could walk around for hours, not just 15 minutes. There are a lot of winding, overgrown trails through farmland, with all sorts of tropical fruit plants, especially papaya (when we were there). We were told that the island specifically grows Israeli and Pink Lady papayas. The farmers are happy for you to wander through, just don’t pick their fruit without permission (obviously!). Depending on the time of year, you might see the famous watermelon fields – they’re planted at the beginning of Ramadan every year. Thoddoo is the largest watermelon producer in the Maldives!
We had lovely weather in Thoddoo for our visit (contrasting with Ukulhas!). It had glorious beach and epic sunset conditions, which made this island seem even better than we already thought it was.
Our first evening, we walked down to the beach and saw hundreds of enormous fruit bats swooping between the trees (one shit on my head). What we only figured out the next day was that these bats fly around all day long, like gigantic birds. If you go up to the top of a building and look around, you’ll be able to spot clouds of bats flying between the trees. They were the biggest I’ve ever seen.
This island seemed to have almost no cats, but more lizards than I could possibly count – just something odd that we noticed!
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THE BEACHES ON THODDOO
If you’re heading to Thoodoo for beaches, then you’re in luck.
Thoddoo has two bikini beaches on opposite sides of the island. The first, in the west, is the busier of the two with some loungers and is perfect for sunset. The second in the northeast has less infrastructure but also less people. There are no accommodation options directly on the beaches; it’s all near the centre and surrounded by farmland.
The beaches in Thoddoo are as lovely as the ones in Ukulhas (in my opinion better) but the bikini sections of them seem smaller. So, there’s a lot less space to strut about in your bikini, if that is your jam. Thoddoo has so many empty stretches of coastline though – it takes a long time to walk around the island and if you are happy to swim and walk in leggings and a top (or covered up in whatever way you choose), you could have an entire section of beach to yourself, all day.
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STAYING ON THODDOO
We stayed at Jeym Lodge.
It was centrally located on the island, near the large football pitch in the centre. The beach on the sunset side (western) is less than a 10-minute walk, down a dusty road, under some bat trees, past a goat farm and a plantation. It’s such an interesting island to stroll around!
We liked this hotel. The rooms were really comfortable, new and modern. The hot water and aircon was perfect, every room had a beautiful terrace surrounded by plants and flowers, plus we were given a tour of the island by the host.
The breakfast was buffet style on the roof, with tuna (obviously) and lots of other great options. Bike hire was free and the front desk could sort out any excursions, including diving.
We don’t really have anything bad to say about this accommodation – fully recommend.
If you are choosing an alternative hotel, be aware that location doesn’t really matter too much (there’s a fair bit of walking or riding to get around this island anyway). Although, if I were to choose, I’d be nearer the western side than the east.
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RELATED POST | UKULHAS, MALDIVES – ISLAND GUIDE
WHAT WE ATE ON THODDOO
We were suggested Seli Poeli by our host during our little golf buggy tour of Thoddoo. During the day it seems unassuming on the outside, hidden away by the tall wooden walls. At night, however, there’s a bright neon buzz to it and this seems to attract humans like moths to a candle. We ate here every night and it was absolutely rammed, both inside and out (a busy vibe which is so, so rare in the local Maldives islands). The food was crazy – like indulgent filthy perfection.
We loved the tuna burgers and tuna pancake rolls (also some amazing sneaky fries). They were *absolutely* not diet friendly options and therefore we thoroughly recommend them as a result.
Vegetarian diet resumes.
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COMMUNITY ON THODDOO
Residents on Thoddoo seem different; less weary of us and more open than people on the other islands we visited. The conversations we had here were interesting, illuminating.
We chatted to somebody who stated that fewer people had to go off-island for jobs at the tourist resorts due to the substantial number of agricultural opportunities available. They spoke about how agriculture has sheltered them from having to experience the worst parts of resort worker problems, such as being away from your family for days at a time.
It wasn’t mentioned so explicitly, but it was clear that there was an amount of resentment towards having no choice but to work in a resort. Brothers I spoke to said they were so glad that local tourism was now allowed on the island, because they could start their own endeavours.
Another man told me that before local tourism, he worked in resorts as it was his only way of earning a living. He expressed huge relief that he didn’t need to anymore. Despite being Muslim (and being legally required to be by his country), on a private island resort he was forced to taste alcohol to make cocktails for foreigners, even during Ramadan. I could imagine this breeding resentment; makes me uncomfortable.
I’ll write more about these conversations in another post, but Thoddoo was the only island where I felt the opportunity to engage in conversations like that. Across all islands we stayed on, people in the tourism industry were friendly and helpful. Outside of that industry though, greeting and speaking with people sometimes fell a bit flat. Not on Thoddoo though – we highly recommend this island if you want to learn a little more about life in the Maldives.
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Travelling from Malé to THODDOO (and THODDOO to Malé) in 2023
Public Ferries (MTTC – Maldives Transport and Contracting Company)
The number 303 MTTC Malé to Thoddoo public ferry costs 22 MVR per person. It leaves Malé at 09:00 every Monday and Thursday, stopping off at Rasdhoo and Ukulhas en-route. The route the ferry takes (stopping twice at Rasdhoo twice on the way to Thoddoo) means it doesn’t arrive at Thoddoo until 16:20.
The MTTC 303 return ferry from Thoddoo to Malé leaves Thoddoo at 06:30 every Wednesday and Sunday, stopping at Rasdhoo and Ukulhas on the way before arriving at Malé at 14:10.
Speedboats
Public speedboats are usually available once or twice a day and cost 35 USD per person each way. We recommend arranging through your guesthouse in advance to guarantee a seat.
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FINAL THOUGHTS - THODDOO, Maldives
Thoddoo was our final island and I’m so grateful – we saved the best until last! This magical sandy little disc might be out on its own but is full of life and we always felt so welcome. The beaches were magnificent, with overhanging palms and fruit trees cradling the sunsets; the food was the best we ate across the nation; and the island is large enough to get a little lost.
It’s worth noting that if you’re only visiting one island and diving is your priority, maybe consider adding another island to your itinerary. Thoddoo does have excursions available, but because it isn’t technically part of an atoll, some of the dive sites are further away. The ferries are also not very regular compared to many other routes, so if you are on a tight budget and miss one, the speedboat will set you back a fair few dollars. We think it’s really worth visiting, despite the slightly inconvenient ferries!
Have an amazing trip, no matter what island you choose!
