My heart clenched tightly with anticipation at first sight of Ma Pi Leng Pass, the magnus opus of the Ha Giang Loop in northern Vietnam. No words can explain the beauty felt when you roll through the high mountain passes on one of the most scenic drives in the world.
I was shocked by parts of the Ha Giang Loop—it’s up there, rivaling some of the most stunning places I’ve seen in my travels.
Is Ha Giang Worth Visiting?
The Ha Giang Loop is a scenery-packed route covering four northern Vietnam provinces bordering China.
You’ll find mountains, valleys, forests, rice paddies, and rock formations all in one trip. The Dong Van UNESCO global geopark is also home to 17 different ethnic minority groups.
With so many incredible things to see and do along the way, it’s no wonder this road trip route is becoming increasingly popular among adventure tourists in Southeast Asia.
If you’re thinking about doing the Ha Giang Loop yourself, here’s a comprehensive guide with everything you need to know about trip logistics, cost, motorcycle selection, and which attractions are absolute must-sees!
Quick Tips before you Motorbike the Ha Giang Loop, Vietnam
For those who like to skim, here’s some information I wish I had known before motorbiking the Ha Giang Loop.
- Motorbiking is the most common way to explore this scenic route. But you can also join a motorbike tour, Easy Rider tour, local bus or private car tour.
- Get a semi-automatic bike for its engine braking system. As a first-time rider of this model, it was straightforward to learn.
- Some online information says you need a permit, but you don’t. Either this is outdated, or we were lucky. No one or hotel asked us for a Ha Giang Loop permit.
- If you don’t stop anywhere else, you must go to Ma Pi Leng Pass! That mountain scenery alone is worth the trip.
- Most people take 3-4 days to circle the loop but feel free to go at your own pace. The loop is 270km up and down steep mountain passes, so take the times stated on Google Maps with a grain of salt.
What is the Ha Giang Loop Route?
How long does the Ha Giang loop take?
While researching, I struggled to understand the Ha Giang Loop’s route before starting my journey. I was convinced that it would take a minimum of three days.
I am here to tell you that there is no one path nor one agenda (unless you are on a tour). Like any other road trip, you have the freedom to stop where you want, adjust the number of kilometers you drive in a day, and points of interest you want to see according to your schedule.
That being said, most people complete the full tour in 3-4 days with some, up to one week.
Where does the Ha Giang loop Map Look Like?
Here’s a nifty Ha Giang Loop map to help illuminate the most common route, but no pressure at all to follow it. We only drove through the top half of the loop in two days as part of a more extensive two-week tour of northern Vietnam. However, if I could go back and plan our trip to Ha Giang Loop again, I would have given ourselves more time.
How to get to Ha Giang City from Hanoi
by Public Transporation
Most people start the Ha Giang Loop from the city of Ha Giang. You can take an overnight bus from Hanoi, which will cost between 300k-500k dong, depending on if you get a normal sleeper bus or VIP limousine.
Lao Cai is the only train option available to travel north, but it is quite a distance from Ha Giang.
Bring Your Own Transportation
We rented a semi-automatic scooter from Hanoi and drove it with us on a two-week itinerary around northern Vietnam, from Ninh Bihn to Cao Bang to Sapa. Since we were renting longer term, we got our bikes for 60K VND per day (2.50 USD), which is a steal.
The scenery on the ride is absolutely gorgeous. And there’s always the option of paying to put your bike on the bus. It cost us about 300k VND (12 USD) each time we did it (We did it twice).
Ha Giang Loop Tours
Consider signing up for a Ha Giang Loop tour if you fit in with one of these conditions:
- Are you comfortable riding a motorcycle long distances up steep, windy mountain passes for multiple days? If you’re not too sure about the idea of this, it might be best for you to take a tour. This will allow you to have someone else driving while you fully take in the view.
- Easy Rider – Easy Riders are the term for the assigned motorbike drivers who will be with you the whole tour. Most tours have an Easy Rider option for an additional fee.
- Are you looking for fellow travelers to socialize with doing your trip? During the day, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to chat with your fellow backpackers and travelers. By night, the Ha Giang group tours are known to be all about the partying and mingling.
If this sounds like you, here are a few highly-rated Ha Giang Loop tour options with varying trip lengths:
Small Group 2 Days Tour with Easy Rider or Ride Your Own Bike
Small Group 3 Days Tour with Easy Riders or Ride Your Own Bike
Motorcycle Tour of Ha Giang Loop, 4D/3N Tour (All-Inclusive)
Where to Stay in Ha Giang
Guesthouses, hotels, and homestays are aplenty all along the Ha Giang Loop. Many of the smaller hotels often don’t even show up on the big booking apps like booking.com or Agoda.
Should I book my accommodation before or on the spot?
Because motorcycle trips can be unpredictable, you might fall in love with a place and want to stay longer. I would advise you not to pre-book anywhere and instead ride up to any accommodation once you get tired.
With that said, the most popular towns to spend the night in are:
- Ha Giang — (Hostel – Ha Giang Hostel, Bong Hostel | Private – The Art Gold Jungle House)
- Yen Minh — (Dorm – Homestay Hoàng Vũ| Private – Homestay Phuc Ahn)
- Dong Van — (Dorm – Dong Van Cliffside House | Private – Nhà Nghỉ Quang Trung)
- Meo Vac — (Hostel – Little Yen’s Homestay | Private – Nhà nghỉ Việt Nhật)
How much does accommodation cost?
Hostels are only available in the most popular towns and are offered for a very low starting price of 70K VND (3-5 USD).
Private Rooms with only the essentials begin at 200K VND (8 USD), which will include an ensuite bathroom, air conditioning, and toiletries. Additional amenities or more luxurious styling hotel prices will only go upward from there.
What to Pack For the Ha-Giang Loop
Rain or Shine. Be prepared for any weather, but pack light. For motorbikers, ask to leave most of your belongings either at your starting accommodation or at the rental shop.
Packing Essentials
- Packable Rain Jacket/Poncho
- Backpack Rain Cover
- Strong Battery Pack (I always get 20,000+ Amp)
- Camera (I use a Sony A6400)
- Sunscreen
- Solid Shoewear like my new favorite Hoka One shoes (better than sandals when you are riding for long periods of time)
Best Time to Visit Ha Giang Loop
The Ha Giang Loop can be done at any time of year. However, certain times are better than others.
The best time to visit is during the dry season, from October to April. The weather is milder, and you’re less likely to experience rain. However, it’s important to note that the weather can change quickly in the mountains, so check the forecast daily and pack appropriately for all types of weather.
The colder temperatures start in December and last through February. With the wind chill while you ride, you would feel it even more. Even having driven the loop in October, wearing a jacket was much more comfortable, especially once the sun set.
Finally, during the rainy season of May through September, you may have to deal with slippery roads and potential landslides.
Renting a Bike for The Ha Giang Motorbike Loop
Where to Rent a Motorbike?
Literally everywhere rents bikes in Ha Giang. Before renting, do a small test run to ensure your bike runs fine. Check the brakes, the gear shifting, the lights, the tires, the mirrors, and the gauges.
Anecdote: Having two bikes turned out to be helpful when we realized one of our bikes had an inaccurate gas gauge.
Prices are similar all along the Ha Giang Loop. It is hard to find any place for less than 180 VND per day. Many businesses also offer insurance for around 100K – 120K VND on top, making it quite an expensive excursion.
Hence, if you plan on going for a longer trip, I recommend finding a cheaper place in Hanoi and bringing your bike on the bus.
Which bike to choose for the Ha Giang loop?
Vietnam is the only Southeast Asian country where automatic scooters are relatively hard to come by. Semi-automatic motorcycles are far and away the most popular choice for this journey or any other overland trip in Vietnam.
Manual Motorcycle – RECOMMENDED FOR EXPERIENCED RIDERS
If you’re an experienced motorcyclist, then manuals are the way to go. However, they often come with a higher price tag.
Most Common Manual Bikes:
- Honda CRF 150CC
- Suzuki CRF 125CC
- Suzuki HJ 125CC
- Honda XR 150cc (dirt bike)
Semi-Automatic Motorcycle – RECOMMENDED FOR BEGINNER RIDERS
For those who don’t know what this is, it’s basically a motorcycle without a clutch or an automatic scooter with gear shifting.
If that sounds intimidating, don’t let it. I had never even heard of these before and learned in five minutes and an hour to be used to the gear-changing.
People highly recommend semi-automatics due to the steep terrain of northern Vietnam. Coupled with the rain, overheated brakes may slip, and *oop* over the cliff you go. Using a lower gear on a semi-automatic, you can rely on the engine to do some of the braking for you.
This is also the cheapest option to both rent and repair, since mechanics all over the country have all the usual parts you need if any problems arise.
Most Common Semi-Automatic Bikes:
- Honda Blade 110CC
- Honda Wave 110CC
Automatic Scooters – NOT RECOMMENDED
I actually find that automatic scooters are more powerful than semi-automatics and have better braking…but not for the extreme hills of northern Vietnam.
For this reason, scooters are usually only rented for inner-city travel, and prices typically cost more than semi-automatics.
How are the Driving Conditions on the Loop?
Honestly great! Just make sure not to keep your eyes off the road for too long as you are gawking at the incredible scenery.
The road is well-maintained and paved but extremely steep and windy. So even though the road conditions are superb, it really comes down to your driving skills and those around you.
How much does the Ha Giang Loop Cost?
Almost everything, save for a few cultural attractions, is completely free. You really just have to pay for accommodation, food, gas, and a motorcycle rental.
We lived cheaply, averaging only 15-20 USD per day. But, that is near the bottom of the barrel. We stayed at the cheapest hotels, ate three local meals a day, rented our bikes from Hanoi, and didn’t join a tour. Gas also only costs 3-5 USD per day.
Ha Giang Northern Loop Stops
Day One: Ha Giang to Yen Minh
Thach Son Than (Rocky Mountain Gods Rock Formation)
Thach Son Than will likely be your first stop on your journey, whether you know it or not. Right off the highway, a strange rock formation juts out from an unseeming field with a small garden in the backdrop.
Thach Son Than is a very quick stop to admire the formation.
Heaven Gate
As you head north out of Ha Giang, wide highways passing through bigger ethnic towns quickly turn into striking limestone mountains. The Dong Van Karst Plateau is a UNESCO Global Geopark, with the highlight of this section being the Quan Ba Heaven Gate Pass.
As you navigate the hairpin turns to the top of the pass, take a moment to soak in the panoramic view before descending into the picturesque valley below. Most people will stop at the cafe for a break or take photos by the frame and garden a little further down.
Fairy Bosom
Known as the “Boobs” of Ha Giang, the Fairy Bosoms are two symmetric hills adjacent to each other, jutting out of the flat farmland.
Right before the town of Tam Son, the best way to view the Fairy Bosoms is from the viewing platform named “Nui Co Tien.” It is free to enter, and you will climb approximately 70 steps or so to get to the top.
Entrance Fee: Free
Lung Khuy Cave
After passing through Tam Son, turn off the GL4C highway for a few minutes up steep mountain roads to discover Lung Khuy Cave. The cave is near a Hmong village and can only be reached by hiking for 1.2 km. Park your motorbike at the start of the trail.
Lung Khuy was only discovered in 2015 and promptly opened for tourism. The natural formation of stalactites and stalagmites may be viewed along a lit, one-way walking platform.
Entrance Fee: 50,000 VND
Can Ty Old Pine Forest
To paint a picture of the stark contrast in landscapes, an old pine forest more reminiscent Pacific Northwest USA emerges just before the town of Yen Minh- a far cry from the usual northern Vietnam landscape.
Day Two: Yen Minh to Dong Van
Tham Ma Pass
Unfortunately, it was already too dark for us to see Tham Ma Pass properly, but the last light of the day shone dimly on the steep, curved roads of Tham Ma Pass.
Moon Surface Rock Formation
The jagged, rocky terrain runs along the side of the main road just in front of a colossal mountain backdrop. Climb around on the rocks for a spectacular photo opportunity.
Vuong Castle (Hmong’s King)
Recognized as an artistic masterpiece since 1993, the Vuong Castle combines the Chinese Qing and Hmong architectural styles. Vuong Chinh Duc, an influential Hmong leader in the late 1800s who controlled the whole Dong Van Plateau, commissioned the building of the Vuong Castle.
Park your motorcycle right at the entrance of Vuong Castle. Although it may pale in comparison to your idea of a castle, it is still worth taking a quick stroll inside.
Entrance Fee: 20,000 VND
Lung Cu Flagpole
At 90 meters tall, Lung Cu Flagpole is the highest flagpole in Vietnam. It was built in 2013 and symbolizes Vietnamese sovereignty over the territory. The flagpole is situated on a hilltop right along the Chinese border.
From the flagpole’s base, stunning views of the surrounding mountains and valleys exist. Visitors can also see the mountain villages of Lung Cu and Dzao Long. The Lung Cu Flagpole is a popular tourist destination and an important symbol of national pride.
Major Detour! Due to time constraints, we did not make it to the Lung Cu Flag tower, which is a solid 3 hour detour.
Dong Van Ancient Street
Dong Van is the perfect place to relax and recharge for the night before continuing on Ha Giang Loop. Although it may be touristy, the Ancient Street is picturesque – a great spot to enjoy coffee or a bite at a local restaurant after exploring all day.
A few minutes’ drive away, the Dong Van Frech Fortress overlooks Ancient Street.
Day Three: Dong Van to Meo Vac (via Ma Pi Leng Pass)
Ma Pi Leng Pass
THE HIGHLIGHT OF THE HA GIANG MOTORBIKE LOOP. Even if you miss everything else on the loop, carve out enough time to admire the Ma Pi Leng Pass. This may sound dramatic, but the beauty was so intense that my body couldn’t process the sensory overload that my eyes were seeing.
The most iconic location along Ma Pi Leng Pass is the towering vertical canyon where the bright emerald waters of the Nho Que River flow through.
The best views of this spot are near a cafe at the edge of the cliff, which offers a drink and entrance fee combo for 60,000 VND. However, if you walk next to the cafe, you’ll get a just as gorgeous view for free.
You’ll feel inclined to stop frequently along this part of the journey. Although you won’t be covering a lot of ground in terms of kilometers, there’s so much to take in that it feels like you are.
The Skywalk
If you’re interested in slowing down more than you would on a motorcycle, the skywalk is a long hiking path that runs parallel to the road intended for motorized vehicles. You can determine how long or short a walk you want to take.
Boat ride through Tu San Canyon
Those with more time on their hands can take a boat ride along the Nho Que River. From afar, you will be able to admire the Tu San Canyon. As you enter the canyon, you’ll be in awe of its beauty before returning and getting dropped off at your original location.
Meo Vac Market
The Meo Vac Sunday Market is the largest market on the Ha Giang Loop, and it’s a great opportunity to see the local ethnic minority culture in their traditional clothing in action. The local market starts early in the morning and features everything from clothes and kitchenware to animals.
The market is interesting to explore and find souvenirs, with the cattle market being the most intriguing section. Not only can you purchase cattle here, but other animals as well. There is also an indoor area that sells food.
Day Four: Back to Ha Giang City
Although we didn’t do the bottom half of the loop, the fourth day of the journey normally follows the Gam River back to Ha Giang City. It’s less eventful than the previous days, with only a few passes and inclines.
If you’re looking to add a variation to the loop, Du Gia is a detour option. It boasts a beautiful waterfall – but it may lengthen your trip by a day.
Getting Out of Ha Giang City
Departing to Hanoi
Several buses leave daily if you’re looking to take a bus from Ha Giang back to Hanoi. You’ll find more sleeper buses than VIP limousines.
Typically, the sleeper day buses leave at around 6am and 7am, an afternoon one leaves at ~4pm, and night ones depart at ~7:30pm.
Departing to Sapa
Sapa is a fantastic destination to explore after finishing the Ha Giang Loop; since you would already be in northern Vietnam, many visitors take advantage of this.
While direct buses run to Sapa from Ha Giang, no central bus station exists. To secure your spot on the right bus, ask around for its location. We took a normal sleeper which cost 300,000 VND per person. It left at 7:45 pm and arrived at our destination at around 4 am but we were able to sleep on the bus until 7 am.
Wrap-Up: Ha Giang Loop
All of northern Vietnam is worth exploring, but the Ha Giang Loop takes the cake when it comes to picturesque roads and unforgettable experiences, especially the Ma Pi Leng Pass. But if you have the time, plan your route around all the essential stops above –you won’t be disappointed!
I hope this blog post has given you a comprehensive guide of what to expect on the gorgeous Ha Giang loop.
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