The East Devon Coast Revisited
If you are looking to find that true essence of England by the sea then head down to the East Devon Coast where you will discover pretty seaside towns, pristine beaches, delicious food and the warmest of welcomes from locals who have not forgotten those fast-diminishing traits of respect, manners and kindness.
I spent a nostalgic three nights last year reacquainting myself with a little corner of Devon that I had previously visited on holiday 45 years ago.
Let’s see if anything has changed.
East Devon, UK
Honiton
A Honiton Homecoming
I have been back to the market town Honiton for work purposes over the years however I have never had the time to stop and have a wander around and remind myself why it was always a favourite as a small boy. Clearly, too much of my time as a big boy has been rushing from place to place without so much as drawing a breath.
My Mum loved antique auctions while Dad was, in his younger years a horologist so Honiton was a natural fit. The buzzing market takes place three times a week and the lace and pottery which made the town famous is still prevalent today. Those antique dens and auction rooms, the book shops and that old-fashioned charm still draw in the tourists like me.
At the top of the hill, St Pauls’s church dominates the skyline and with the War Memorial in front, there is clearly still a strong sense of community with flowers freshly laid the week I was there marking the funeral of Her Majesty the Queen. The support for Ukraine is also evident at the Volunteer pub and at the house opposite but whether the colour scheme was by design I do not know. Either way, I liked it!
I know all sorts of fancy businesses are popping up across the country these days – back in the late seventies there were no nail bars, vaping shops, botox treatments or eyebrow threading centres so when I saw the Clock Clinic I really thought that this up and down town had taken leave of their senses – thankfully its the opticians I really needed
There are however signs that sadly the town, like anywhere has its struggles no more so than Encore the “Good as New” Boutique which was looking, well, far from good, and far from new.
It was lovely to see Honiton again…. its a place that always brings a smile to my face.
Beer
Beer Anyone
It was 45 years ago that my folks took me to the little village of Beer, 9 miles east of Sidmouth in East Devon on the Jurassic coast of the United Kingdom. I have never forgotten this pretty little place where I ate fish n chips out of newspaper while sitting on the beach walls.
From the moment I drove into the village it was clear that absolutely nothing has changed.
Well, that’s not strictly true as I bought fish n chips and instead of being wrapped in the News of The World, they were in plain paper as is the way these days. But hey who cares – they tasted delicious. Talking to the lovely current owners I found out that Margaret and Cecil Perkins were running the shop in the 1970s so one of them would have delivered my supper. Margaret’s Dad had started the business in 1929 before passing it on to Margaret and Cecil who then retired in 1983. Well, there you go…. the history of fish n chips in Beer!
I was told the best pub in the village was the Barrel of Beer Freehouse. Surely this village is an advertising aficionado’s dream – they sell Beer. Not just any Beer mind – this is Beer from Beer! I popped in, for investigative purposes, only to be faced with the boss of the joint – Tom Cat – on his stool and not budging for anyone! I was sold! To be fair I can see why the locals love this pub – it’s clean, the staff were lovely and welcoming and the locals chatty too – oh and the Beer – well that goes without saying – blinking marvellous!
The same can’t however be said for the Bomb Shelter museum that was, shall we say, a little sparse – I think I must have walked in as they were having a move around so I won’t hold it against them – I am sure it’s really interesting when there is something in it so, unlike me, choose your moment!
If you are passing along this glorious stretch of the East Devon coast make sure you drop into Beer… have a mooch, eat fish n chips, drink Beer and toast a village that is one of those magical British villages where time has stood still for all the right reasons.
Seaton
Seaton Says
Just to prove that I do listen to your comments on my Facebook group I took the decision to head over to Seaton and discover see why a few of you recommended I should take the Seaton Tramway.
I was staying in Sidmouth so I am leaving that blog till my last, as I am sure there are many stories to be made before I leave. I can tell you now it will involve dogs as Sidmouth is, without doubt, the dog owner’s capital of the universe and I love it! The weather today was as good as it gets. Blue skies and autumn temperatures. I took the opportunity to go for a wonderful brisk walk on Sidmouth seafront which was largely empty at 730am aside from a small group of ladies bearing their finest swimsuits and going for a morning dip.
After breakfast, I walked to my car which was parked in an overnight car park on the seafront. The day before I had been greeted by, and I told him, the friendliest car park attendant I had ever met. A guy in his sixties, tanned after a summer of well, parking cars, but with the life, the chat and the “joie de vivre” of a thirty-year-old. This morning I collected my car and as I drove out, the kiosk door slid open and his bearded colleague (not a “bearded collie” but we are in Sidmouth so it could have been) peered out. His first words were “hello young man, where are you off to today”.
How refreshing not to get a grunt or simply a demand for money. That opening remark of his meant I spent the next 10 minutes chatting to him – he was originally from Sunderland and had moved to Portsmouth where he worked on yachts including one for Edward Heath, our former prime minister who was a keen yachtsman. He then semi-retired down to Sidmouth but works part-time as a car park attendant. He suggested I go to Beer howver I told him I had been the day before and was now heading to the Seaton Tramway. We said our farewells but not before I told him he was the friendliest car park attendant I had ever met
The Seaton Tramway
A 10-mile drive along the East Devon Coast took me from Sidmouth to Seaton. Whilst you guys had said I must go, I did not know what this trip entailed or where it was but as the road led me into town I soon saw the Seaton Tramway building conveniently located alongside a Long Haul Car park. After a 15-minute struggle to understand the workings of a Devon car park machine that was clearly created by a man who has never parked a car in his life, I arrived at the steps of the Tramway and took a photo. This as always led to another conversation as a funny guy jumped out and wanted to know what angle I wanted him in the shot! These Devon folk are a happy lot! It turned out he worked at the Tramway and after another chat, he directed me inside where I would meet Sandra.
The Seaton Tramway is a 2 foot 9 inch, narrow gauge heritage railway that takes tourists and locals between Seaton, Colyford and Colyton in East Devon’s glorious Axe Valley. You can pay £10 for a simple return trip or as I did, £12 allowing you to stop at both the picnic area (Riverside Halt) or the recently opened (April 2022), Wetlands Halt for bird watching and walks.
Sandra delightfully ushered me through to the next available tram that was just departing as they go every 20 minutes. I was that stereotypical modern-day pain in the backside tourist – in other words totally under-prepared. I also had luggage – a rucksack, a camera, a mobile phone with charger, a hastily grabbed collection of brochures about Seaton plus a yellow wristband that needed to be tied to my wrist. Now with all that, the last thing I needed was to board a tram with an iron spiral staircase suited for someone the size of a small child rather than a middle-aged slightly overweight and ridiculously overloaded tourist. After a struggle and the realisation that the diet must start Monday, I took my seat on the open top deck!
I decided to go to the end of the line first. A 28-minute journey covering 3 miles of glorious Devon countryside that included the magnificent Wetland area, fields of farm animals, and beautiful views of the Axe Valley estuary. Riding on top of the tram was such fun with everyone in good spirits and waving as we tooted and tentatively drew past another tram coming the other way.
Colyton
Colyton, the final stop, is a delightful little railway station complete with hanging baskets, a café and a shop. A short walk will take you across to the historic town, known as “Devon’s Most Rebellious Town” for its part in the Monmouth Rebellion of 1685. By all means, go and lose yourself here for a couple of hours however beware the last train back is about 5 pm. To be sure, check the handy timetable on their website.
In Colyford, the driver pointed out the Victorian Stop that still exists from when the station was a British Rail station. There was also the story of the green Victorian toilet which is proudly on display at the trackside. Back in those days, this was only available to men. Women were expected to do their business elsewhere. Best I don’t comment further.
Seaton Wetland Centre
I got off on the way back at the Wetland Centre, just for 20 minutes to walk the immaculate wooden walkways that take you down through to several bird hides where you can spy on plovers, redshanks and sandpipers going about their day in the marshes and reed banks. As I walked back to the tram stop a kingfisher flew along the river bank. For those who love the peace, the walks and nature then I would thoroughly recommend a stop here but for longer than the 20 minutes I took.
Back at the main Tramway depo, I was greeted by the ever-attentive Sandra who ensured my trip had gone smoothly. It had. I loved the Seaton Tramway and would recommend it as so many of you did to me, as an excursion, that can be tailored to your needs.
Having said my farewells I headed into Seaton to get an understanding of the town. The beachfront is like so many around here – immaculate, clean and well-maintained. The pebble beach was busy with sun worshippers grabbing those last rays of the season and once again those hardened ladies of Devon dipping their toes in the sparkling sea.
I don’t remember Seaton from when I was last on holiday here 45 years ago. Understandably my folks fell in love with Beer, Honiton and Sidmouth so perhaps never spent much time exploring further afield. I am glad I did.
Branscombe
A Branscombe Pickle
Now before you lovers of one of the nation’s favourite chutney get up in arms… I know, but I needed to link this particular Devon experience with the situation I found myself in.
I’d been here on the beautiful East Devon coast for 24 hours. I had been visiting such places as Sidmouth, Beer and Honiton and I kept noticing signs to the picturesque village of Branscombe. Curiosity finally got the better of me, so driving back from Seaton I swung left in the hope of finding out more.
For the first time on this trip, I soon encountered one of those notorious Devon roads where its width is not much wider than your car. It’s certainly not a place you want to come face to face with a skip-hire lorry that’s for sure! Well, I did… so by the time I finally got to the start of this village which is rumoured to be the longest in the country, my neck was aching from driving backwards more than forwards or so it seemed. It’s all part of life down here and you just get on with it. What I love is that there is no road rage – people are just accepting, courteous and respectful.
I arrived at a T junction but with a divert sign sending me right I headed up the hill which I later came to realise was the opposite direction to the village. Realising I had messed up I asked a friendly walker who not only told me to turn around but also to carry on through the village, up over the hill and to the beach. After I had performed an immaculate 27-point turn on a dangerous bend, I was on my way – no one would ever know – unless I chose to share my story on social media
I turned down into the village and caught sight of the highly recommended and very pretty Olde Masons Arms that was packed on this sunny day with alfresco diners. This was clearly one of the places to hang out in Branscombe. My thoughts immediately turned to a traditional Devon Ploughman’s lunch however I resisted the temptation to stop.
Branscombe Beach
I was now in the heart of the village which is full of pretty thatched cottages, overflowing hanging baskets, a little church and tremendous views of the surrounding countryside.
Given my instructions, I soon carried on through the village where again I gripped the steering wheel a little firmer as I negotiated roads that switched between light and shadow before finally sweeping down to the sea. I had arrived at the beach and parked up.
Having wrestled with another non-sensical car park machine, I made the short walk up a slope to discover the painted beach huts and a shanty-style café selling food, souvenirs and those all-important ice creams. Walkers travelling along the South West Coast Path were arriving and departing from both directions and while catching their breath it was clear they had enjoyed their walk with stories shared of stunning vistas and abundant nature. Just by the Shanty café was a huge anchor from the MSC Napoli that developed a hull breach and was run aground in Lyme Bay in 2007.
Leaving the beach, I passed through the lovely village and following the divert signs I found myself back at the location of my 27-point turn… a few hundred yards along as I slowed before another roadblock, I was directed down an adjoining road by a lady walker who it seemed knew her highway code. I took this random stranger’s word and promptly rounded a corner and came face to face with the local tree trimmers who had blocked that road whilst doing a spot of tree maintenance. Now I really was in a pickle! Another 27-point turn followed and after yet more reversing I was finally on the right route out of the village.
The Sidmouth Donkey Sanctuary
After all the excitement it was time for a spot of lunch so I hit the road once again and headed for my next stop before the start of a late-night adventure.
