If you’re heading to South America and looking for a 3 week Peru itinerary that explores all of the best bits plus some hidden gems, then look no further.

This guide covers many things, including unbelievable mountains with bright blue lakes, vibrant cities with stunning colonial buildings, cool street art and tasty food, an oasis in the middle of the desert and – of course – natural wonders like Machu Picchu and Rainbow Mountain.

This itinerary is going to squeeze every ounce out of Peru whilst hopefully not leaving you too exhausted at the end.

Before we dive deep into the 21 days in Peru, there are some super important things that you’ll need to know about such as how to get there, travel around and the best time to visit. Trust me, this is very important, as you don’t want to visit and be stuck inside because it’s raining.

The structure of this guide will give you information about each location, tell you how to get there, give you some accommodation recommendations and then an itinerary of what to do whilst you’re there.

You’ll also find some information about how much you can expect to spend during the three weeks and some tips on how you could potentially save some money.

Where is Peru in South America

Peru is situated on the western side of South America and borders 5 countries: Chile, Bolivia, Ecuador, Colombia and Brazil.

Below is an interactive map so that you can see the exact location.

How to get to Peru and travel around

Plane | If you’re heading to Peru by plane and you’ll be following this itinerary then you’ll need to arrive into Lima. This is the capital city and Peru and where most international flights fly into.

There is only one airport in Lima and this is called Jorge Chávez International Airport.

Typically, tourists stay in the Miraflores neighbourhood as it’s on the coastline, very safe and there are plenty of things to see and do. It can take 30 minutes to 1 hour to reach Miraflores from the airport depending on the traffic, and there are a few different options to get there.

The first is by the Airport Express Lima bus. This only runs between the airport and Miraflores, however, there are a few stops to get off at depending on where you’re staying in the neighbourhood.

These are:

• Marriott
• Tourist Information Center
• Parque Kennedy
• Boulevard Hotel

The bus runs from 7 am to 10 pm and leaves on the hour, every hour and costs around 20 soles which is approximately $6/£5.

Although I’ve visited Lima more times than I can count, I’ve never had any luck getting this bus. I’ve always arrived in Lima too late, on a holiday or when it didn’t seem to be running that day for no apparent reason – classic South America.

To be honest, I started to question whether it was a legitimate bus, but during my many weeks in Miraflores I saw it multiple times, so I guess I was just unlucky.

The second way to reach Miraflores is by taxi or Uber. There are multiple taxi companies inside the airport who will be flagging you down as soon as your walk through the exit, however, these are much more expensive than taking a Uber.

Uber is super safe, reliable and fairly cheap in Peru.

Bus | buses in Peru are one of the best ways to travel around. Compared to other countries in South America, they are super comfortable and depending on the company, quite luxurious.

Yep, luxurious buses which almost feel like you’re travelling first class on an aeroplane…but on a bus. Obviously.

There are heaps of bus companies, but the best-known backpacker favourite is Cruz del Sur. Depending on which bus you select, you could be travelling around Peru with your own bed on the bus.

Tip: If you’re following this 3 week Peru itinerary as part of a wider trip across South America then the likelihood is that you’ll be coming down by bus from Ecuador.

If this is the case, then you’ll have a hell of a bus journey from the north to central Peru where most of the things to see and do are on offer.

If this is your plan, then I’d recommend that you make this a 4 week trip and stop in Mancora and Trujillo to break up the journey, before coming down to Huaraz and Lima which is where this itinerary will start.

Check prices: Busbud

Car | driving in Peru as a tourist is possible, but you should only consider this if you’re a super confident driver as the roads aren’t always in the best condition and it can be super chaotic in big cities such as Lima.

Check prices: Rentalcars.com

The best month to visit Peru

The best month to visit Peru is tricky because when one side of the country is experiencing the best weather of the year, the other side is experiencing the worst. For example, when it’s hot and sunny in Lima, it’s wet and cold in Cusco.

However, since the last few days of this itinerary finishes with a trip to Machu Pichu, you’ll want to visit during the dry season in Cusco which is typically May to September.

Rainy season in Peru

Luckily, a lot of the coastal towns and cities in Peru experience none or very little rain. However, the official rainy season in Peru runs from December to March.

3 week Peru itinerary overview

Peru itinerary 3 weeks

Peru itinerary week 1

Day 1-5: Huaraz

About Huaraz

Huaraz sits within the Ancash region of Peru at approximately 3100 meters above sea level. Being surrounded by the Cordillera Blanca mountain range, Huaraz has become a hub for hiking and mountaineering. If you love incredible blue lakes, snowcapped mountains and authentic towns, you’re going to love Huaraz.

Tip: given the high altitude in this location, you should consider taking medication to help with the effects. If you head to any pharmacy in Peru, you’ll be able to pick up some Acetak tablets. Trust me when I say this is worth it – I ended up having to go to the hospital for a chest x-ray following a bad case of altitude sickness.

How to get to Huaraz

The best way to get to Huaraz is by bus.

If travelling down from Ecuador by bus, then as recommended above, you’re better off making this a 4 week trip and stopping in Mancora and Trujillo to break up the journey if you don’t fancy enduring a 20+ hour bus ride.

However, if you’re flying into Lima then you’ll need to take the bus from either Plaza de Norte or Javier Prado bus station.

Plaza de Norte is the closest station to the airport and Javier Prado is closest to Miraflores. The best way to get to either of these bus stations is by Uber and you’ll need to arrive at least 30 minutes in advance of your departure time in order for your passport and luggage to be checked.

If you’re sticking to this itinerary, then you’ll need to take a night bus on the day that you arrive in Lima. It will take around 8.5 hours and it gets pretty cold, so I’d recommend wearing some warm clothing.

If you’ve got some wiggle room on how many days to spend in Peru, then you could also opt for the day bus. The scenery is stunning, so it’s definitely something to consider if you have time.

Regardless of whether you take the day or night bus, the route takes a lot of winding roads. If you get travel sick then you’ll definitely want to take some tablets before embarking on this bus journey.

Whilst I’d recommend the Cruz del Sur bus company, there are plenty of bus companies who travel this route. To see all the options available alongside the times and prices, check out Busbud – but, be sure to select one with good reclining seats or a bed if you’re travelling through the night.

Tip: Once you arrive at Huaraz bus station, you’ll need to take a taxi to your accommodation. Bear in mind that taxi drivers in this area will require you to have almost the exact amount of money and will not give you change if you only have big money.

Check prices: Busbud

Where to stay in Huaraz

Huaraz is a surprisingly large city that has quite a lot of hostels and hotels to choose from. And, what’s even better is that they’re all pretty cheap in comparison to some of the other towns and cities in Peru.

Below are some recommendations for where to stay in Huaraz:

• Budget | Kame House Backpacker
• Mid-range | Hotel El Rubi

Huaraz itinerary

Day 2 | after taking the night bus and arriving in Huaraz early in the morning, you’ll want to check into your accommodation and use this day to acclimatize to the high altitude. Since Huaraz is at 3100 meters above sea level, this day is essential before you head even higher into the mountains over the next few days.

You can also use this day to ensure you’ve booked onto the necessary hikes which you’ll be able to arrange through your accommodation or ahead of time using the links below.

Day 3 | today you’ll head into the mountains to Laguna Paron – one of the best lagunas in Huaraz – for your first little hike to ensure you’re acclimatised.

Whilst the hike is short, the gains are huge, as Laguna Paron is one of the most stunning blue lakes in Peru that can be reached after just 30 minutes of climbing.

However, don’t be fooled, as this day is a long one. You’ll be collected by your tour company between 7 am and 8 am before driving approximately 45 minutes to the charming town of Carhuaz. You’ll be given between 20 and 30 minutes to pick up some breakfast and snacks for the day, as well as have the opportunity to try some of the local ice cream. I’m a big fan of lucuma – an incredible fruit which tastes like a caramel milkshake – so I highly recommend the lucuma ice cream here.

You’ll travel for another 45 minutes to the base of the mountain before the long and winding 2-hour journey begins to the start of the hike.

Once you’ve arrived at the starting point, you’ll be given 2 hours to hike and explore independently. It may seem obvious, but you’ll need a solid pair of hiking shoes and some warm clothes for this hike since you’ll be climbing over big rocks and the weather in the mountains is unpredictable.

After around 30 minutes of hiking, you’ll arrive at the viewpoint which sits at 4200 meters and looks down onto the undeniably beautiful waters of Laguna Paron.

Once everyone has made it back to the bus, you’ll be taken to a restaurant in the mountains for a late lunch before arriving back in Huaraz at around 6 pm.

Day 4 | now that you know you can handle some altitude, it’s time to tackle one of the most popular hikes in the area: Laguna 69.

It’s a demanding 13-kilometer hike that’s filled with steep accents and rocky terrain but reaps some of the greatest rewards that Peru’s nature has to offer. The ultimate prize of Laguna 69’s turquoise glacier water surrounded by snowcapped mountains at 4600 meters above sea level is an achievement that’s worth every breathless step.

You’ll be collected at approximately 5 am by your tour company who will drive you roughly three hours to the starting point of the hike.

Although it may seem tough to get yourself up and out by this time, there is a method in the madness. Typically, the weather becomes worse in the mountains in the afternoon and so you’ll be thankful that you’ll be trekking in *hopefully* decent weather.

However, with that in mind, you will need to pack for all weather eventualities. During my Laguna 69 hike we experienced blistering hot sunshine, rain, snow and wind. The key to success is a lot of layers and plenty of sun cream. You’ll also need a solid pair of hiking boots or trail running shoes and hiking poles would also be beneficial. If you don’t have your own, then these can be rented for a small fee on the day.

You’ll be left to hike alone or with your new-found friends from the bus, and your tour guide should be following the last person in the group. Rough timelines are 3-4 hours to ascend, 1-2 hours at Laguna 69 and 2-3 hours to descend. Based on these guidelines, you should be back in Huaraz between 6 and 7 pm.

Day 5 | day 5 of your 3 weeks in Peru gives you two options: you can hop on the day bus back to Lima or you can explore the city of Huaraz before taking the night bus. What you choose will depend on how well you can sleep on buses and how tight your budget is – as of course, when you’re sleeping on a bus you won’t need to pay for a hostel.

If you go for option 1, you’ll enjoy a lovely scenic journey back to the capital and arrive in time for dinner.

If you go for option 2, then you can explore Huaraz or even head on another hike, as the night buses leave between 9 and 10 pm.

Laguna Churup is another popular hike which has similar difficulty levels to Laguna 69. Alternatively, you could take a day trip to Pastoruri Glacier as most tours leave at 9 am and return by 5 pm. After a tough day hiking to Laguna 69, this may be a better option for you as it only involves a short 40-minute hike.

Either way, you’ll end up back in Lima after Huaraz.

Check prices of Laguna Churup & Pastoruri Glacier with you hostel – these are often the cheapest prices

Day 6 & 7: Lima

About Lima

Lima is home to over 10 million people, making it one of the largest cities in South America. The three main areas which tourists visit in Lima are Miraflores, Barranco and the historic centre – also known as the City of Kings and declared as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988.

Although Lima often gets a bad rap for its often grey skies, its vibrant food industry, colourful street art and stunning historical buildings more than makes up for it.

Where to stay in Lima

The most popular base in Lima is Miraflores and as such, the below recommendations are for this area.

• Budget | Pariwana Hostel
• Mid-range | Exe Hotel
• Luxury | Pullman Hotel

Lima itinerary

Day 6 | on day 6 you’ll be exploring the districts of Miraflores and Barranco.

First up is Miraflores and a great way to start the day is by heading down to the beach to catch some waves. The three main beaches for surfing in Miraflores are Waikiki Beach, Makaha Beach, and La Pampilla. Waikiki Beach is popular among beginners, whilst Makaha and La Pampilla offer better opportunities for intermediate and advanced surfers.

Since you don’t have too long in Lima, a great way to explore is by renting some bikes. There are plenty of dedicated cycle paths in the area, making it very safe.

Cycling along the Malecón de Miraflores is a lovely way to explore the area’s six-mile coastline. Along the way, there are plenty of parks, interesting sites and sculptures to stop at, including El Beso, the Chinese Park and the Lighthouse. You’ll also find some places to eat such as Beso Francés Crepería and the Larcomar shopping centre.

Alternatively, you could see the coastline from above by opting for paragliding. This is usually around 320 soles which is equivalent to $85/£70.

Either way, this should take you most of the morning and leave you the afternoon to explore Barranco.

After you’ve had some lunch around the popular Kennedy Park – also known as the cat park – it’s time to head over to Barranco.

Barranco is also known as the bohemian district of Lima. It’s becoming increasingly popular due to the vibrant street art and murals, with many companies offering tours to showcase some of the hot spots.

There are plenty of walking tours which explore Barranco, however, there is a fantastic food and walking tour that can be booked through Viator which I highly recommend.

Check prices: Barranco Food and Art Tour

Day 7 | today you’ll be exploring the historic centre of Lima, visiting museums and heading to the stunning Magic Water Show in the evening.

The best way to learn about the history of a place is with a walking tour, so I’d recommend booking one for the morning.

Check prices: Lima City Tour

However, if you’d rather explore independently then the key sites that you’ll want to check out are:

• Plaza Mayor
• Government Palace
• Cathedral of Lima
• San Francisco Monastery and Catacombs
• Casa de Aliaga
• Church of Santo Domingo

Next up is the Larco Museum. It’s one of the best museums in Lima – not only for its 45,000 objects which showcase the early Andean civilizations to the Inca Empire but also the immaculate 18th-century mansion in which they are held. Every corner of this museum is beautiful, with vibrant flower walls blooming against the bright white architecture.

Some of the best bits on the show are the Moche pottery collection which has incredibly detailed ceramics depicting scenes from everyday life and mythical nature, as well as a collection of erotic art that shows pottery depicting sexual practices and fertility rites.

One of the best sites to see in Lima in the evening is the Magic Water Show which is situated in Parque de la Reserva. As you might have guessed, this is essentially a bunch of fountains which shoot water around in time to the music whilst being lit by different colours. It’s pretty impressive and even holds the title in the Guinness Book of Records for the largest fountain complex in the world!

The show is on multiple times throughout the night on every single day of the week and costs 15 soles which is around $4/£3.

You don’t need to worry about the timing of the show as if you miss it, it will be on again shortly. There are other fountains to see, run through and capture awesome pictures of, so you won’t be bored in the meantime.

If you have an extra day or historic centres and museums don’t tickle your fancy and you want to do something more unique, then you could opt for a tour to the Palomino Islands to see Guano birds, Humboldt penguins and swim with sea lions.

Although I didn’t do this tour, having looked at it in-depth now, it’s something I really wish I’d prioritised time and money for. I’m heading back to Lima in the coming weeks and I will be there for a while, so I will update this post once I’ve ticked it off my bucket list.

In the meantime, here’s some tours:

Peru itinerary week 2

Day 8 & 9: Paracas

About Paracas

Paracas is 260 kilometres south of Lima. Although it’s a small seaside town, it acts as a great base for the abundance of things to do nearby. By far the most popular places to visit are Paracas National Park and the Ballestas Islands due to the magnificent wildlife and unique landscapes which can be found. Additionally, it’s a popular spot for those who are interested in kite surfing.

How to get to Paracas

To get to from Lima to Paracas, you’ll need to take the bus. Whilst there are plenty of buses which leave throughout the day, you’ll need to be careful about which bus you select since some of them take alot longer than others.

The best option is to take one of the early morning Cruz del Sur buses. Although they leave super early, they are the quickest and it means that you’ll arrive in Paracas with plenty of time left in the day to explore.

Check prices: Busbud

Where to stay in Paracas

Below are some recommendations for where to stay in Paracas:

• Budget | Viajero Kokopelli Hostel
• Mid-range | El Gamonal
• Luxury | La Hacienda Bahia Paracas

Paracas itinerary

Day 8 | once you’ve arrived in Paracas and settled into your accommodation, you can roam the streets and explore this sweet seaside before heading to the meeting point of the Golden Shadows Trek at 3 pm.

This trek leads along the coastline of Paracas National Park and you’ll enjoy some spectacular views as the sun sets and the moon rises. In fact, you’ll be able to see both on either side of you which is super unique.

However, it’s the tour guides that really make this experience. Not only are they full of interesting information, but they’re absolutely hilarious too. They go above and beyond to provide an unforgettable experience and you’ll leave with some epic pictures to remind you of the experience.

Although this trek isn’t super long trek, you’ll be climbing across the sand and down some steep slopes – to the point where you may question whether it’s actually safe – but don’t worry, everyone made it to the end of the hike in one piece and the guide promised that no one else had ever left with injuries.

With that in mind, you’ll want to wear appropriate footwear. Hiking boots may seem a little excessive when you arrive, but trust me, you’ll be thankful that you put these on as you get further into the hike. You’ll also want to pack a jumper and/or a windproof jacket as you’re very exposed on the coastline.

Check prices: Golden Shadows Trek

Day 9 | day 9 of this 3 week Peru itinerary is jam-packed. You’ll head off to the Ballestas Islands in the morning before taking a buggy tour across Paracas National Park and heading to the Peruvian desert and oasis of Huacachina.

The Ballestas Islands are also known as the poor man’s Galapagos, with tours running from 8 am until lunchtime almost every day. I’d recommend taking the 8 am or 9 am boat as the experience lasts 2 hours and you’ll want to have enough time to get some lunch before exploring Paracas National Park.