by Wayne Forster

I don’t know about you, but when I travel, my most lasting memories are of the scenic views. Yes, I remember the museums, and the historic sites, and the great food, but it’s those spectacular vistas from the tops of mountains, or across rolling landscapes, or along rugged coastlines that most get etched on my brain, and I can recall them vividly, even years later.

That’s what I remember most about the Isle of Capri; the stunningly beautiful views from the hilltops.

Visitors have been enthralled by the beauty of the island for centuries. It’s been a vacation resort since the time of the Roman Empire. In fact, the Roman Emperor Tiberius was so captivated by the island that he moved there permanently from Rome in 27 AD, ruling the Empire from Capri until his death. (Or maybe he just wanted to avoid the fate of Julius Caesar!)

During the later half of the 19^th century, the Isle of Capri became a fashionable resort for many of Europe’s creative class, inspiring paintings from artists like John Singer Sargent, and short stories from writers like Somerset Maugham. Today, it remains a favourite vacation destination for the world’s rich and famous, and local cabbies will tell you about sightings of Tom Cruise, and Taylor Swift, and Leonardo DiCaprio. Apparently, Mariah Carey owns a villa there.

But it’s also one of Italy’s most popular spots for “ordinary” tourists (like me), especially in July and August. Its natural beauty, its trendy shops, and its great food attract Italians and foreigners alike, who come mostly for day trips, as overnight accommodations are pricey.

Just 4 square miles in size, the tiny Isle of Capri (often referred to simply as “Capri”) is situated off the southwestern coast of Italy, on the south side of the Bay of Naples, just off the Sorrento Peninsula. To get there (if you don’t have your own yacht!), you can take a ferry from the town of Sorrento, a crossing of about 30 minutes. It’s also accessible by ferry from Naples (80-90 minutes) or, if you want to get there quicker and don’t mind spending a little extra money, by hydrofoil (40-45 minutes). There are also ferries from Positano (on the Amalfi Coast), Salerno, and the nearby island of Ischia. There is no airport on the island. Oh, and unless you’re a resident, you can’t take your vehicle there. But don’t worry, there are plenty of taxis if you need one.

Helen and I arrive by hydrofoil from Naples, in mid September. We dock at Marina Grande, the main port on the island. The harbour is filled with watercraft, large and small – yachts, sailboats, tour boats, speedboats, and any variety of pleasure craft. Along the narrow beach is a long line of dinghies and row boats available for rent.

We disembark from the hydrofoil onto the sidewalk of the seaside street. On the opposite side of the street is a row of multi-coloured buildings, 3 to 4 stories high, with restaurants and bars on the ground level. The upper levels all have balconies and walkways overlooking the harbour. Our eyes are drawn to the sheer rock cliffs of a mountain in the background, towering over the port, which we later learn is Mount Solaro. The place is packed. There are people everywhere.

From there, we take the short walk along Via Matteotti to the Giardini di Augusto (Augustus Gardens), a beautiful botanical garden with geraniums, dahlias, and other numerous ornamental flowers and plants. From a lookout, we see unique rock formations just off the shore, called faraglioni in Italian. We also gaze down at the Via Krupp, winding its way down the cliffs.

By this time, we’re getting a little hungry, and we find a reasonably priced restaurant with a good menu. The place is quite busy, which I always feel is a good sign. Helen starts with the insalata caprese (Caprese salad), the island’s most famous dish, made with thick slices of ripe tomatoes and equally thick rounds of fresh buffalo mozzarella, sprinkled with olive oil and basil, which the waiter tells us is grown right on the island. It looks good, but my system can’t handle mozzarella, so I opt for some bruschetta. For our main course, we both have seafood pasta, with shrimp, prawns, and mussels. And, naturally, we wash it all down with an Italian red.

Sufficiently stuffed, we hail a cab to take us to the next destination on our Isle of Capri visit, the even smaller centre of Anacapri. Along the way, I ask the driver to stop at a couple of lookouts, and I get some breathtaking photos of Marina Grande and the northeast tip of the island, with the Italian mainland in the distance.

Including the stops, it takes us about 25 minutes to get to Anacapri, along steep and winding roads. Once there, we are not disappointed. It is truly beautiful. And quite different than Capri town. Less crowded, less touristy, more peaceful. There are a few streets with shops and small hotels, but it’s more residential, and feels like a village. You get a sense of remoteness. Walking out of the village centre, we marvel at the houses and expansive villas perched on the side of Mt. Solara. We go for a hike on one of the many trails skirting the mountainside, and come across the ruins of an ancient Roman villa. And we climb steps to a lookout, from where we see spectacular views of steep cliffs and unique rock formations just offshore.

No visit to the Isle of Capri is complete, however, without seeing the Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra), the island’s most famous attraction. If you haven’t heard of it, the Blue Grotto of Capri is a sea cave approximately 60 metres long and 25 metres wide. Sunlight passing through an underwater cavity and shining through the seawater creates a blue reflection that illuminates the cave, giving the grotto its name. If you put your hand in the water, it glows blue, as the light is coming from beneath the water. It’s an eerie sensation. Access to the cave is restricted to local guides who operate small row boats. Tourists pay a fee to have the operators take them into the cave. (The operators will also expect a tip.) The entrance to the cave at water level is very small, so you have to lie down in the boat to avoid hitting your head. Once you’re in the cave, there is plenty of room, and you can sit upright. But if you’re claustrophobic, you might find entering the cave, or even the whole experience, a little unnerving. If the tide is too high, or the sea is too rough, the cave is inaccessible. You can reach the Blue Grotto by bus from Anacapri, where you will find the row boat operators. You can also get on a row boat in Marina Grande.

The hour getting late and our day trip to the Isle of Capri nearing an end, Helen and I begin our way back to Marina Grande to catch the hydrofoil back to Naples. We take the bus back to Capri town to catch the cable car to the port. When we arrive at the Piazetta, there is a very long lineup for the cable car, so we decide to walk down the steps to the port. The steps are steep, but walking down is a lot easier than walking up, and it takes us only 15 minutes. At the port, we learn that the next hydrofoil for Naples will only be arriving in about 45 minutes, so we pop into one of the seaside bars, where I have a beer and Helen a coke. Before we know it, though, we see the hydrofoil approaching the port. It’s time to go.

As the hydrofoil sails away from the island, I go to the back of the boat and take a few last photos. With the island growing smaller and smaller, I reflect on our day. “I think I’ll remember this place,” I say to myself. “Yes, I definitely will.”

Travel Tips for the Isle of Capri

1. Many people tie in a day trip to the Isle of Capri with a longer tour of southwestern Italy – the Amalfi Coast, Sorrento, Pompei, Salerno, Naples.

2. If you’re taking the hydrofoil from Naples to Capri, book your ticket in advance to ensure you get a seat, especially during July and August.

3. A word about the Blue Grotto: Some people complain that the row boats only spend a couple of minutes inside the cave, and they feel they are not getting good value for what they pay, especially given that you’re expected to tip heavily. I look at it this way. You’re on vacation. Everything is expensive. Yes, tourists get gouged. But you’re probably never going to visit here again. Pay the price and enjoy the experience.