Nana Phadnavis Wada is the most beautiful piece of old Maratha architecture located in western Maharashtra in India. It is more than 200 years old, but its wooden architecture is still well preserved. You can experience the genius architecture styles and glorious history from the time of Chp. Shivaji Maharaj at this place. Menavali ghat is a beautiful riverbank located just behind this Wada.

This place is a quick getaway from Pune, Satara, or Panchgani, Mahabaleshwar. You must visit if you like ancient architecture and a little bit of history. This was the first day out of my 21 days solo trip across Maharashtra. I reached the Wai bus stand a bit later than I had planned. And made my way towards this Wada first. Little did I know about all the adventures I was going to have in the upcoming days.

Quick details about Nana Phadnavis Wada and Menavali Ghat

• Best time to visit: Any time of the year, but the monsoon will definitely be more beautiful.
• Timings: 9.00 am to 5.30 pm
• Entry ticket: Rs 30 (for both Indians and non- Indians)
• Photography fee: Rs 20 for mobile camera and only photos allowed. For videography and camera equipment separate permission has to be taken from the officials.
• Parking fees: Rs 10 for two wheelers, Rs 30 for cars, and Rs 50 for large vans and buses.
• Washrooms: Available.
• Food and Snacks: Not available near Wada as it is located inside a village. You can go to Bandu Gore’s Khanawal near the Mahaganpati temple in Wai to taste some authentic Maharashtrian food.
• Accessibility: The Wada is not accessible to wheelchairs as there are some steep old stairs inside.
• Watch my youtube video from Nana Phadnavis Wada

How to reach Nana Phadnavis Wada

It is best to reach here by your own vehicle a bike or a car. When I went here the roads were fantastic. If you want to go by public transport, then the nearest bus stand is Wai. From here you have to take an auto rickshaw to the Nana Phadnavis wada.

• Pune to Nana Phadnavis Wada distance: 92 km or 2 hours.
• Satara to Nana Phadnavis Wada distance: 40 km or 1 hour.
• Panchgani to Nana Phadnavis Wada distance: 17 km or 0.5 hours.

Who was Nana Phadnavis?

The real name of Nana Phadnavis was Balaji Janardhan Bhanu. The Maratha empire flourished and expanded under the leadership of Chp. Shivaji Maharaj. At this time, several Peshwas or Prime ministers were appointed by the king. The kingdom also needed someone to manage the accounts and administration – A Phadnavis (finance minister). So Balaji Bhanu, a person from Konkan was appointed as the Phadnavis or the chief accountant of the Maratha empire.

Nana was given several lands in this little village of Menavali. He built this beautiful Wada (palace) for himself. Since then he was always referred to as the Phadnavis rather than his real name Bhanu. During his lifetime he was successful in keeping the British at bay. He formed the Barabhai council – a council of 12 men to keep the Maratha empire and young Madavrao II safe from the internal conflicts of Marathas and the external threat of the Britishers. The Maratha empire collapsed after his death.

The Architeture style of Nana Phadnavis Wada

Most of such pre-independence architectures in India have been demolished or lost at the hands of the British or the government. But this structure is well preserved and it now belongs to the descendants of Nana Phadnavis. While most of this Wada or palace is sealed off and kept private, the descendants show off a small part of the Wada to tourists and the general public.

After I paid for the entry tickets and went inside, the guide there started telling us the information about Nana Phadnavis and about this Wada (palace). She was a young girl just about my age. And she told us everything about the Wada with much gusto.

Once you walk into this Wada you are entering another era. The architecture at Nana Phadnavis Wada gives a rare insight into the ingenious architecture styles used by the ancient Marathas. Most of it is carved in different types of wood. And there are also a few paintings on the walls inside. The centuries-old wooden carvings and paintings are still preserved and look amazing even today.

Following are some important things to see inside the Nana Phadnavis Wada.

Nagarkhana and Ganesh Chowk

Nagarkhana is a place from where they used to make announcements or play music in the olden times. It is a small but high raised platform just above the main gate. The windows from here give a good view of the Wada from the top. And on the other side, you have an amazing view of fort Pandavgad. As you enter into the Wada you first come to the Ganesh chowk. A beautiful little replica of Ganesh murti stands here at the entrance. You will have to leave your shoes at the entrance. I personally found the upper floors to be more interesting and exciting than the ground floor. A staircase from near the Ganesh Chowk leads straight up inside the Nana’s Diwankhana or hall.

Nana’s Diwankhana and Bedroom

The bedroom of Nana Phadnavis is attached to a stately Diwankhana or a hall. While walking around this Diwankhana make sure you look at the ceiling and the cute wooden carvings on the pillars. The attached bedroom is sealed off, but you can take a look inside. Nana used to sleep on this cute four-poster bedstead made out of teakwood. The floor is covered with cow dung even today. And there is a cloth fan at the top. Look at the legs of this bedstead, there is a circle made around them. They used to fill it with water so that ants, termites or other rodents cannot climb up or eat this wooden bed. How genius!

Pangaticha Chowk and the genius water sewage system

Pangaticha Chowk is where they had their kitchen. The water sewage system here is very impressive. You can see that there are wooden studs on all four sides of the roof. The water on the roof drop from here in heavy monsoon. And when you look down below at the place where this water must fall, there is a nice hole dug out to carry this water ahead. There are five holes in the ground ahead from where this rainwater goes straight to the Krishna river behind the Wada (palace).

Menavali Daftar and letters in ancient Modilipi script

Menavali Daftar is close to the Pangaticha chowk inside the Wada. All the financial and administrative documents of the Maratha empire were maintained here at Menavali Daftar by Nana Phadnavis. Even today they have several such important documents, written in Modilipi script, which was the administrative language at the time. It was amazing walking at this place, from where there managed the finances and administration of the Maratha empire. At the end of this palace tour, before leaving, they will write your name on your entry ticket in this Modilipi script as an ode to the olden times.

Khalbatkhana or Secret meeting room

A hidden passage from the Diwankhana or Nana’s hall leads into this room. There is another hidden passage to this room through a cupboard entrance in the Kaladalan or the art room. This room was used for the secret meetings by Nana Phadnavis and his men. The room has very thick walls and extra wooden panels on the ceiling so that not even a whisper can go outside these walls.

At the end of this room is an old gallery, which was originally attached to the Diwankhana. The guide here told us that Nana used to sit down close to this window and look at the view outside. There was an old chair in this room. And guess what I did after the guide left? I took this chair and sat in the very same window for a few moments. Then I looked at the view outside. The Haldi Kunkawacha Chowk is visible just below this window. And far away I could see some mountains of Panchgani.

Kaladalan or the art room

Kaladalan or the art room located next to the Khalbatkhana. There are several beautiful wall paintings in this room. The painting where Sita from the epic Ramayana is dressed in Maratha clothes can be found here. Some of the paintings are on the verge of destruction due to the cracks in the walls. And the best ones are taken off by them and preserved somewhere else.

From the windows, you can look below at the beautiful courtyard called Haldi Kunkawacha chowk. The windows also have cute paintings around them from the outside which you can see from the chowk below.

The secret staircase

An old, dark and musty staircase is stashed in between the Kaladalan and the Khalbatkhana. The cupboard from the Kaladalan or the art room leads to this staircase too. It is so small that only one person can fit inside at a time. The stone stairs are quite high. These stairs take you down to the Haldi Kunkawacha chowk. And there is a back door nearby that leads straight to the Menwali ghat. This secret staircase was an escape route used by Nana Phadnavis and his men in event of unwanted visitors.

The several courtyards or chowks

Inside this Wada type of architecture, a chowk is a courtyard or a quadrangle. It is basically an open space left at the centre of the Wada with the house on all sides. This was done to enhance the airflow within the Wada. There are 6 such chowks or quadrangles inside this Wada. The most beautiful one among them, which is also my favourite is the Haldi Kunkawacha Chowk.

Haldi Kunkawacha Chowk

Haldi Kunkawacha chowk is a place where the women of the Wada (palace) used to hang out. It is located adjacent to the Ganesh chowk and has a separate entrance. There are several niches and grooves all around the walls here. Just imagine how beautiful it must look when these niches are light up with oil lamps. There is a small pretty Pushkarni or a fountain inside this courtyard.

As you go inside the rooms close to this chowk you will be amazed by the pretty intricate lattice carved in the wood on the pillars and walls all around these rooms. The design is so small yet very symmetric and uniform. This is my most favourite part of the Wada (palace). And you won’t be able to forget it once you see it.

Motifs in the pillars and their meaning

As Nana Phadnavis was from Velas – a beach village near Shrivardhan in Konkan, this entire palace is inspired by the Konkani style of architecture. Almost every pillar here has featured a beautiful carved banana flower. I saw similar designs and architectural patterns in the temples of Konkan which I visited later on in my trip.

Baobab tree or Goraksh Chinch at Nana Phadnavis wada

An ancient tree with a large trunk can be seen just outside the Wada. This tree was bought from Africa for the soldiers of the Maratha army. This tree bears fruits similar to jack fruit that have amazing medicinal properties. The tree is almost as old as the Wada.

Menavali ghat

The Krishna river flows behind the Nana Phadnavis Wada. Earlier the ghat had simple stone steps leading down to the river. But when the Maratha empire flourished, they converted it into a beautiful arrangement of terraces. Each one had a designated purpose like – bathing, washing clothes, filling up drinking water and performing religious rites. Temples were built around the ghat during this period.

Meneshwar temple, the European bell and a Vishnu temple

Meneshwar temple is located alongside the river on Menavali ghat. it is dedicated to the god Meneshwar (shiva). The idol here is said to be a swayambhu idol – that is formed by itself. A few uneven steps lead downwards inside the temple. It was very dark, and there was no light inside the temple when I visited.

Outside this temple near the Nandi, you will find a unique bell. This is a European bell that was captured from the Portuguese by Marathas. It was bought here from Vasai fort by Chimaji Appa. And it still hangs here as a part of spoils of the long-gone battles. The bell is made from an alloy of five metals and it weighs 650 kg. There is an inscription on it which I think must be Latin rather than Portuguese. A picture of mother Mary and young Jesus is also cast in this bell.

The Vishnu temple is located close to this Meneshwar temple. But when I asked the locals about it, they said it is closed for tourists. Only the priest opens it to perform the rituals.

Fateured in Bollywood movies

The Nana Phadnavis Wada has been featured in several Bollywood movies like Swades, R Rajkumar, Bajirao Mastani, Mrityudand, Gangajaal, and many more.

Places to visit nearby

• Narsinha Temple
• Dhom Dam
• Mahaganpati (Dholya Ganpati) temple
• Panchgani Tableland
• Mahabaleshwar
• Tapola Lake
• Kas Pathar
• Baramotichi Vihir
• Ajinkyatara Fort
• Sajjangad Fort
• Thoseghar waterfalls

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