If one’s culinary memories could be painted into a picture, Chennai would manifest as an exuberant canvas teaming with vivid colours, dynamic strokes and hidden nuances. A treasure trove of fragrant spices, sumptuous delights, and aromatic brews, this coastal gem in India has given birth to a legacy of culinary experiences that strum the chords of nostalgia with every whiff and every bite.

Every journey through the bylanes of Chennai unfurls an epicurean sonnet, with every verse singing praises of a different delicacy. These gastronomic notes make up an indispensable part of the city’s culture, from the humble thalis to the invigorating filter coffee.

The Quintessential Thali

Chennai’s food culture is synonymous with thalis. In local parlance, a meal is often called a ‘Saapadu.’ The quintessential Tamil Saapadu is a combination of 12 to 20 different items served on a banana leaf that imparts a subtle, unique flavour to the meal. The selection usually includes rice, sambar, kootu (a mild curry), poriyal (fried vegetables), rasam (a tangy soup), curd and pickles. Sweet dishes like payasam and savoury snacks like appalam (papad) and vadai complete the meal.

But how to enjoy the Chennai Taste if you’re not able to actually travel there?

Let’s delve into the details of two classic dishes in the thali:

Sambar

Sambar is a nutritious and hearty stew made with lentils and a variety of vegetables.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup toor dal (split pigeon peas)
• 2 cups mixed vegetables (drumstick, brinjal, pumpkin, etc.)
• 1 tomato, chopped
• 1 onion, chopped
• 1/4 cup tamarind extract
• 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
• 2 tsp sambar powder
• Salt to taste
• 1 tsp mustard seeds
• 2 red chillies
• A few curry leaves
• 2 tsp oil

Procedure:

1. Cook the toor dal in a pressure cooker until soft.
2. In a pan, heat oil, add mustard seeds, curry leaves, and red chillies. When the seeds crackle, add onions and tomatoes.
3. Cook till the onions are translucent, add the vegetables, tamarind extract, sambar powder, turmeric, and salt.
4. Add the cooked dal and water as needed, simmer for 15 minutes.
5. Serve hot with rice.

Rasam

Rasam is a tangy soup that often follows sambar in a meal.

Ingredients:

• 1 large tomato, chopped
• 1/2 cup tamarind extract
• 2 tbsp rasam powder
• 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
• Salt to taste
• 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
• 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
• A pinch of asafoetida
• A few curry leaves
• 2 tsp ghee (clarified butter)

Procedure:

1. Boil the tomatoes in tamarind extract, rasam powder, turmeric, and salt until the raw smell disappears.
2. Crush the cumin seeds and add them to the mixture. Boil for another 5 minutes.
3. In a separate pan, heat ghee, add mustard seeds, curry leaves, and asafoetida. When the seeds crackle, pour the mixture into the rasam.
4. Serve hot.

The Infusion of Memories: Filter Coffee

Chennai’s mornings are incomplete without the aroma of freshly brewed filter coffee. Made in a traditional metal filter, this robust beverage is the elixir of life for many Chennai residents.

The coffee, often served in a ‘Davara-Tumbler,’ which you can also see in the attached video I made, is enjoyed hot with a perfect blend of frothy milk.

Ingredients:

• 2 tbsp filter coffee powder
• 1 cup water
• 1/2 cup milk
• 1-2 tsp sugar

Procedure:

1. Add coffee powder into the upper compartment of the filter and press it lightly.
2. Pour boiling water over it and cover. Allow it to brew for 10-15 minutes.
3. In the meantime, heat the milk until it starts to boil. Add sugar according to taste.
4. Mix the brewed coffee decoction with the hot milk.
5. Serve hot in a tumbler and enjoy.

Every bite in Chennai weaves an unforgettable tale of taste and tradition, evoking memories that linger, tantalising the senses long after the flavours have faded. Its cuisine, like the city itself, is a heartwarming medley of age-old rituals, diverse influences, and a dash of modernity.

Find more of my travel experiences from Chennai here!

The taste memories of Chennai are not merely about the taste or aroma; they are an embodiment of the city’s unwavering love for good food. A love so profound that it continues to stir the pots in its kitchens and the hearts of its people.

The Symphony of Snacks: Idli, Dosa and Vada

Apart from the main meals, Chennai’s snacking culture is also noteworthy. Idli, dosa, and vada are the stars of this show, often teamed up with coconut chutney and sambar.

Idli

Idli, the pillowy steamed rice cakes, have earned a special place in the hearts of Chennai residents and beyond. Paired with chutney and sambar, they are often a breakfast staple.

Ingredients:

• 2 cups idli rice
• 1 cup urad dal (split black gram)
• 1 tsp fenugreek seeds
• Salt to taste
• Water as required

Procedure:

1. Soak rice, urad dal, and fenugreek seeds separately for about 4-6 hours.
2. Grind them separately into a smooth paste, adding water as necessary.
3. Mix the pastes together, add salt, and let it ferment overnight.
4. Pour the batter into idli moulds and steam for 10-15 minutes.
5. Serve hot with sambar and chutney.

Dosa

Dosas, the crispy savoury pancakes, offer a crunchier alternative to idlis. They are made using a slightly different batter and a tawa (griddle).

Ingredients:

• 1.5 cups idli rice
• 1.5 cups parboiled rice
• 1 cup urad dal
• 1 tsp fenugreek seeds
• Salt to taste
• Water as required
• Oil for cooking

Procedure:

1. Soak the rice, urad dal, and fenugreek seeds separately for 4-6 hours.
2. Grind them separately into a fine paste, adding water as necessary.
3. Mix the pastes together, add salt, and let it ferment overnight.
4. Heat a tawa, pour a ladle of batter, and spread it in a circular motion.
5. Drizzle some oil around the edges and cook until golden brown.
6. Serve hot with chutney and sambar.

Vada

Vada, the crispy donut-like fritters, offer a spicy kick and pair perfectly with a cup of filter coffee or tea.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup urad dal
• 2 green chillies
• 1 inch ginger
• A pinch of asafoetida
• Salt to taste
• Oil for deep frying

Procedure:

1. Soak the urad dal for 3-4 hours, then grind it with chillies and ginger into a thick paste.
2. Add salt and asafoetida to the batter.
3. Heat oil for deep frying. Wet your hands, take a dollop of batter, make a hole in the middle and drop it gently in the hot oil.
4. Fry until golden brown, then drain on paper towels.
5. Serve hot with coconut chutney.

The Unforgettable Sweet Finale: Payasam

But no meal in Chennai is complete without a sweet ending, and payasam serves as the perfect finale.

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup rice
• 4 cups milk
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 tbsp ghee (clarified butter)
• 1/4 cup mixed nuts (cashews, raisins, etc.)
• 1/2 tsp cardamom powder

Procedure:

1. Wash and soak the rice for 30 minutes.
2. Heat a pan, add ghee, and roast the nuts until golden brown. Set them aside.
3. In the same pan, add the drained rice and sauté until slightly golden.
4. Add milk and cook until the rice is completely cooked and the milk is reduced to half.
5. Add sugar and cook until it dissolves completely.
6. Finally, add the roasted nuts and cardamom powder. Stir well.
7. Serve hot or cold.

The culinary journey through Chennai is an exploration of flavours that transport you back in time and taste memories from Chennai are the ones that stick around, like the city’s warmth, even long after you’ve left its shores.

Street-side Spectacles: Sundal and Bhajji

When talking about Chennai’s food one needs to mention its vibrant street food. Sundal and Bhajji, two street-side snacks, reflect the city’s bustling life and dynamic gastronomic spirit.

Sundal

Sundal, a healthy snack made from boiled legumes and tempered spices, is a popular offering during the festival of Navratri, yet it is also a street-side staple throughout the year.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup chickpeas (soaked overnight)
• 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
• 1 tsp urad dal
• 2 dried red chillies
• A sprig of curry leaves
• A pinch of asafoetida
• 1/4 cup grated coconut
• Salt to taste
• 1 tsp oil

Procedure:

1. Pressure cook the soaked chickpeas until they are tender.
2. Heat oil in a pan, add mustard seeds, urad dal, red chillies, curry leaves and asafoetida.
3. Once the seeds crackle, add the boiled chickpeas, salt, and mix well.
4. Finally, add the grated coconut and give it a stir.
5. Serve hot.

Bhajji

Bhajji, or pakoras, are deep-fried vegetable fritters coated in a spicy gram flour batter. They are a monsoon favourite and are typically enjoyed with a cup of filter coffee.

Ingredients:

• 2 cups gram flour (besan)
• 1 cup rice flour
• 2 tsp red chilli powder
• A pinch of asafoetida
• Salt to taste
• Water as required
• 2 large onions or green chillies or potatoes (sliced)
• Oil for deep frying

Procedure:

1. In a bowl, mix gram flour, rice flour, red chilli powder, asafoetida and salt. Add water gradually to make a thick batter.
2. Dip the vegetable slices in the batter, making sure they are evenly coated.
3. Heat oil in a deep pan and carefully drop the coated vegetables one by one.
4. Fry until they turn golden brown, then drain on paper towels.
5. Serve hot with coconut chutney or tomato sauce.

The Quintessential Quick Bite: Murukku Sandwich

The Murukku Sandwich, a unique offering from Chennai’s streets, is a snack that represents the city’s inventive culinary spirit. A crunchy murukku is stuffed with fresh, tangy fillings and served like a sandwich.

Ingredients:

• 2 large round murukkus
• 1/2 cup grated carrot
• 1/2 cup finely chopped onion
• 1/2 cup finely chopped tomato
• 1/2 cup finely chopped coriander leaves
• Green chutney as per taste
• Sweet tamarind chutney as per taste
• Sev (crispy chickpea noodles) for garnish

Procedure:

1. Apply green chutney on one side of a murukku.
2. Layer it with the chopped vegetables, drizzle some sweet tamarind chutney and sprinkle some sev.
3. Place the other murukku on top to form a sandwich.
4. Serve immediately.

The bustling lanes of Chennai and the sizzling sounds of the street-side stalls, reflect a culinary culture steeped in tradition yet adaptable to modern influences. The diverse culinary landscape of Chennai creates an orchestral symphony of flavours that play a nostalgic tune, touching the heartstrings of all who’ve had a taste of this city’s magnificent spread.

A Brunch Favorite: Pongal

Pongal, a creamy, savory rice dish cooked with lentils and tempered with spices, is a breakfast or brunch favorite in Chennai, often accompanied by sambar and coconut chutney.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup rice
• 1/4 cup moong dal (split green gram)
• 4 cups water
• 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
• Salt to taste
• 2 tsp ghee (clarified butter)
• 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
• 1/2 tsp whole black pepper
• 1 inch ginger, finely chopped
• A sprig of curry leaves
• 2 tbsp cashew nuts

Procedure:

1. Roast the moong dal until fragrant, then wash it along with rice.
2. In a pressure cooker, add the rice, dal, water, turmeric, and salt. Cook for 3-4 whistles (Indian way) or until soft.
3. In a pan, heat ghee, add cumin seeds, black pepper, ginger, curry leaves, and cashew nuts. When the nuts are golden, pour the mixture over the cooked rice and dal.
4. Mix well and serve hot with sambar and chutney.

A Seafood Delicacy: Chettinad Prawn Masala

It’s not just vegetables in Chennai. Owing to its coastal location, Chennai is also home to many exquisite seafood dishes, and the Chettinad Prawn Masala is a true standout, resonating with the vibrant hot flavors of Chettinad cuisine.

Ingredients:

• 500g prawns, cleaned
• 1 tsp turmeric powder
• Salt to taste
• 2 tbsp oil
• 1 tsp fennel seeds
• 2 onions, finely chopped
• 2 tomatoes, finely chopped
• 2 green chillies, slit
• 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
• 1 tsp red chilli powder
• 2 tsp coriander powder
• 1 tsp garam masala
• A sprig of curry leaves
• Coriander leaves for garnish

Procedure:

1. Marinate the prawns with turmeric and salt. Set aside for 15-20 minutes.
2. Heat oil in a pan, add fennel seeds, onions, green chillies, and curry leaves. Sauté until the onions are translucent.
3. Add the ginger-garlic paste and sauté until the raw smell disappears.
4. Add tomatoes and cook until they are soft and mushy.
5. Add red chilli powder, coriander powder, and garam masala. Cook until the oil separates.
6. Add the marinated prawns and cook until they are done.
7. Garnish with coriander leaves and serve hot with rice.

As the food tour of Chennai comes to a close now, we are left with a tapestry of tantalizing flavors, intoxicating aromas, and vivid memories of food that narrates the city’s story. The taste memories of Chennai leave an indelible impression, enticing you to return to its bustling streets and warm kitchens time and again.

Read more about traveling in Chennai and India from my visual travel guide INDIVUE – Trip to India

Useful links:

• Visual travel guide to Goa
• Visual travel guide to India in Finnish
• Taste trip around the world