Tainan, this island’s first urban center, provides the most powerful introduction to “yesteryear” Taiwan for a visiting traveler. It is filled to bursting with historic sites of national importance, and famed especially for its thick cluster of centuries-old temples. Now, the city’s people are also busy taking old places of lesser rank and refitting them for new, more modern missions, and also merrily creating futuristic buildings and other sites that celebrate the most advanced in modern thinking. The delicious, harmonious mix of revered and lovingly preserved old, rejuvenated and repurposed old, and futuristic spanking-new that has arisen is an international

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