Beachcombing in Ramelton
Today we explore the coastal areas north of the Town of Ramelton. This tour is a series of inland roads with side trips to coastal cliffs, arches and beaches. You can see this route on our Ireland North Itinerary Map.
Drive north of Ramelton on Highway N56 through the karst scenery with rock strewn outcrops shown above. It is similar to the drive near Glenveagh NP due west of here. The rest of the drive to Dunfanaghy was not remarkable.
Horn Head
BTW, you do not drive to the point called Horn Head on Google or Maps.me. You drive to Lookout Point Horn Head on Google Maps or Coastguard Hill on maps.me. The road dead ends here. We got one of the last spots in the tiny parking area and walked up Coastguard Hill.
A light rain was falling. The hazy, blue-grey view above is what we actually saw. But in spite of the haze, we was still blown away by the magnificent vista. Horn Head is certainly the main must-see of the day.
In the photo above, I just added more light, contrast, and reduced the blue haze. The result was better than what I saw when I was there. As you can see, the plateau has plenty of space to walk around in order to take in the 360° view. This is one of the only views of a cliff because you are standing on top of them. So this is very different from the Cliffs of Moher or the Ring of Kerry
After you descend the hill, then turn left and walk past the end of the pavement where the trail begins. Take the short right branch to see the hazy distant islands dotting the exceptional vista.
This trail leads to the second view of rugged cliffs. In this photo, I changed the white balance to get rid of the over the top blue cast.
Return to the junction and head towards the watch tower and cliff you saw from Coastguard Hill.
This trail brings you close to the cliff.
Drive south down the narrow road you came on but turn left to a roadside viewpoint with wide parking space. Here you get a third view of cliffs.
The road back to Dunfanaghy is quintessential Ireland with emerald green pastures crisscrossed by stone fences and framed by distant mountains.
Dunfanaghy
Dunfanaghy (the g in gh is silent) is the largest town on this route. In the town near the market, pubs and cafes is this small park along the tidal flats. Nearby is Killahoey Beach, a wide expanse of sand.
Marble Hill
Marble Hill is a fair sized beach with several photogenic elements of interest. Park along the road near The Shack Cafe. Imagine owning that huge house right off the beach.
Then there is the turquoise waters framed by rocky headlands. But the not to be missed point of interest is The Shack with good espresso choices and the best gelato (Mullins brand) we had in Ireland. It was €3.50 for two scoops. Don’t even bother going to the flavourless and more expensive Murphy’s in Killarney or elsewhere. You can also get better speciality ice cream in the supermarkets.
Doe Castle
The castle tower is believed to have been built in the 1420s. Spanish survivors of the 1588 Spanish Armada fleet were sheltered at Doe by the MacSweeney Clan chief.
This is also the scene of Ireland’s own Romeo and Judith. Judith was the daughter of the clan chief, Maolmhuire. She was in love with his nephew, Hugh McSweeney. Maolmhuire suspecting a conspiracy by Hhugh, and swung his staff to kill his nephew. But Judith stepped in the way and stumbled into the well to her death.
Harry Blaney Bridge
The Harry Blaney Bridge (2008) provides a route to the Fanad peninsula. There had been no ferry service since the 1960s. It is amazing that Harry Blaney got the government to pay €20 million for a low traffic bridge.
Fanad Head
The white Fanad lighthouse contrasts with the green grass. Personally, I found Fanad overrated. The tourist literature hyperbole reminds me of the Doers and Dreamers Guide back home where everything is painted as great.
The view from the parking lot of the Fanad lighthouse towering over a narrow rocky inlet was the best.
Great Pollet Sea Arch
The massive sea cave is viewable through the farm gate on the narrow country road. We assumed that the farm would not appreciate tourists so we did not drive or walk down to see the actual arch on the other side of this headland. But you can see the huge cave cut right through to the sea.
Portsalon Beach
Head south from Fanad on Highway R246 to the tiny town of Portsalon. As you pass the golf course you see one of the nicest beaches of golden brown sand. But there is no access to this beach from the north end where the town is located. Continue on the road to the south end for this beautiful beach with a large bathroom facility.
The road from Portsalon Beach to a seaside fort 5 km away is certainly the second must-see of this tour. As the road switchbacks up the mountainside there is a place on the left to pull over for a drop dead view.
The three beaches and intervening grasslands were stunning.
This fort with an underground cave marks the end of the most scenic stretch of the road.
Ramelton
Formerly called Rathmelton, this was a bustling port in the 18th century trading with New York and Jamaica. As a result the town is lined with Georgian architecture (1714-1830).
Unlike the port towns of Ireland, most of the buildings were drab grey or white except for the Bridge Bar. Subdued colours is an element of the Georgian style.
A three-arch stone bridge crosses the River Lennon.
Former factories line the quay.
We loved our Victorian B&B in this quiet town of 1266 people. If you want more supermarket, dining, and nightlife opportunities then an alternative base would be Letterkenny, with 19,000 people. But 11 km is an easy commute and we did it every day.
