17 December 2022 | Genova, Italia

When I was at the planning stage of my les vacances Christmas edition, I already had Genoa (birthplace of Christopher Columbus) fixed in mind, strongly dedicated to find a way to  squeeze it in the itinerary, one way or another. Unfortunately, the most logical and economical means to insert it in my otherwise heavy schedule was through a 5-hour connecting (Lyon-Pisa) bus ride, sadly on a daybreak. Sure, it wasn´t the best of options, but I was glad I took that route. People who knows enough about who I was two decades ago would undertand my obsession of thios place and correctly guess why I decided to go for it, out of the other Italian cities. The simplest and most honest reason is this certain 45-year old Japanese anime series, set in this Italian city during a period of depression in the 1880s. I happened to watch several episodes of the show when I was around the protagonist's age. This anime series has basically introduced me to the concept of travelling the world, while crudely learning a bit of geography, particularly in Argentina and Genoa, on the side.

Indeed, it was cold and dark as I arrived in that sleepy corner street in Genova and I felt like I was thrown in some deserted place. It quite seemed unsafe in the area with the lingering presence of drunk dudes roaming around. While I understand I had limited time to explore, I ultimately opted to take the safer choice as I found this shop along the highway where I spent a considerable amount of time, being the lone shop open during those wee hours. I asked  the store attendant – a busy, old man, typical of those Italian father figures portrayed in films and tv – if I could stay inside, while greeting him with the most pleasant bonjourno I could possibly give.  He agreed, although I have a feeling he was only forced to oblige, but I was thankful anyhow. I decided to have an early breakfast: I had the first of the many pizzas I will later have during the entire trip, paired with the most satisfying cup of caffè I have had in the recent times. 

Moreover, for a little over an hour of staying there, I was able to have a glimpse of the team's morning routine – setting up the shop, entertaining drunk people around, including the constant shouting and nagging among the staff themselves. When the clock struck 5am, drove by three parts fear and seven parts curiosity, I decided to get going, walked around the area to visit those spots I pre-marked on my google maps. Despite that small voice telling me that it wasn't safe yet, there was just no way I would have left the place and not exploring it. I couldn't afford to bring with me the slightest of regret should the inner lazy, playing-safe soul take over. I started navigating from the safer side of the port having sights of Galeone Neptune, array of sleek yachts, and cruise ships, before going deep into the dark, old town labyrinth in cobbled alleyways.

Walking alone on those narrow streets of the harbor city, trying to piece my wandering thoughts as I wander, felt like going straight back in time, in a fictional setting at that. As I sat down on the top step of a stone staircase to rest for a bit, I realized why Marco Rossi had been running to and from the port, going up and down the stairs, all the fucking time. The structures, streets, noise, and even the lights breaking in to set out the darkness of the night, were exactly how I pictured them to be based on the how these were depicted in the anime. It all made a lot of sense that I felt the need to re-watch it, to get the whole picture. 

Right then and there I crossed one of the biggest items in my Euro travel list. And even if it was just for a few hours, it surely melted a part of me.