Uruguayans affectionately call their country “Paisito” which means ‘little country’. And in comparison to its mega-sized neighbours Brazil and Argentina it certainly is minuscule. 

But what it lacks in size it makes up for with its gigantic heart, enchanting mix of cool cities, sophisticated wine regions, wild roaming hills and spectacular coastlines.

I headed to South American in late 2019 and ended up Visiting Uruguay as the pandemic hit in 2020. Originally Uruguay was meant to be ‘just a quick stop’, where I would study some aspects of permaculture. 

But after almost a year and a half of volunteering and living here, I’m applying for my residency and trying to start a permaculture project with a group of like-minded people. As a result I’ve come to know the country well. 

So what to do and where to go when visiting Uruguay? Here’s my take on this little known, but magical paisito…

Montevideo

Unless you’re hopping over the border from Brazil or Argentina most international trips will start in the charming, ocean fronted capital – Montevideo. In keeping with Uruguay generally, Montevideo is very small which makes it easy to get around on foot or on the excellent and safe buses.

A standard single journey is $40 pesos (just under 1 dollar), and with one of the pre-loaded bus passes that anyone can obtain from one of the hundreds of Abitab pay station stores, standard fares are discounted to $30 pesos. Use the excellent and user friendly Moovit app for navigation, bus times and routes

La Rambla is the 17 kilometers stretch of walkable, and cycleable coastline which runs along the whole of the front of the city, dotted with beaches and parks. Almost every barrio (neighbourhood) worth visiting has access to the ocean within minutes.

You can step back in time by visiting Ciudad Vieja (the old city) and marvel at the beautifully preserved architecture – think hints of Havana and Cartagena but not as hot. 

Plaza Independencia is the city’s most important plaza and separates Ciudad Vieja from downtown Montevideo. The Old City is also the political and banking centre for Uruguay which means there are plenty of nice – but pricey- restaurants, coffee shops and bars. On the weekends the streets are empty aside from the cruise ship tourists and street sellers.

Exploring the city

Heading East into the city and huddled closely together are the cooler barrios ‘Barrio Sur’, ‘Palermo’, ‘Cordon’ and ‘Parque Rodo’. More on trend with students and the hipster crowd with their cool (and less expensive) bars and restaurants, boutique shops and diverse nightlife scenes.

Parque Rodo has the best viewpoints to see the amazing sunsets (of which there are many) – it is literally bang in the middle of everything you might want to see. The area also offers some of the nicest places to stay plus the beautiful park itself opens out onto Ramirez beach at one end.

In the middle of Cordon you have Tristan Narvaja Feria. Visiting Uruguay means trips to ferias – or markets – everywhere and anywhere. Tristan is the biggest and best in Uruguay, buzzing with stalls selling fresh food, clothes, houseware, and all kinds of artisanal wares.

After Parque Rodo you have Punta Carretas and Pocitos – the wealthiest barrios in the heart of the city. If shopping is your thing then check out Punta Carretas shopping mall, plus the main street – 21 Sieptembre – for expensive boutiques. Punta Carretas also has one of the nicest stretches of the La Rambla with a massive green expanse in front of the golf club. 

Pocitos  is ‘yummy mummy’ central. It has the most exclusive shops and restaurants but no real centre – it does however boast one of the better beaches along it’s seafront.

Carnival

The annual spectacular Carnival parade is held in Palermo in February. Isla de Flores and Durazno are the two streets closed for the giant parade. If you’re visiting Uruguay during carnival then you’re in for a treat – it’s not quite on a par with Brazil’s mardi gras, but it’s still great fun.

You can squeeze into a few spots for free and catch glimpses but if you want the full experience it’s better to buy a ticket (for $50 – $80 USD) and have a seat along one of the streets or up on the rooftops.

What to see in Montevideo

My pick of the best things to see and do when visiting Uruguay’s capital city are:

• La Rambla at sunset – there are good spots everywhere but the best ones are in Parque Rodo and Punta Carretas. You’ll know because you won’t be alone. Always take a jacket and maybe wine or Mate.
• Inner city beaches. I would give swimming in the sea a miss (which is actually the Rio de La Plata). But there are some great beaches for sunbathing and socialising. Playa Pocitos and Malvin are the nicest beaches close to town, although Playa Ramierz is not bad and even more central.
• Parque Rodo is beautifully manicured and there is plenty of space to laze around on the grass and enjoy the sun or shade. There’s a nice Feria (market) on Sundays with an excellent food area.
• Mercado Verde – Ciudad Vieja or Punta Carretas.The best vegan food I’ve had outside of London and the best vegan cheese I’ve ever had (made from Cashews)
• Mala Fama Micro Brewery – A very cool night time spot for homemade beer, great food and cocktails. The big open hall is backed by the giant brewing tanks.
• Montevideo al Sur – in Barrio Sur for excellent tapas, cocktails and wine at very good prices
• Sushi Wok Peru – in Pocitos. It’s pretty eye wateringly expensive but worth every penny. The fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine is outstanding. Some of the best Sushi I’ve ever had.
• EAC Contemporary Art Space – Barrio Aguada. The atmospheric building alone is worth the visit, they often have interesting displays and the area (Aguada) has some of the best graffiti in the city.

Colonia 

Two hours to the west of Montevideo is the department of Colonia, referred to as ‘the Tuscany of South America’. It has many cultural crossovers from its close neighbor Argentina: a temperate climate, beautiful winding tree lined roads and sophisticated vineyards on tap. If you’re visiting Uruguay for any length of time, you’ll likely come here.

Colonia del Sacramento is the main city in the region. Again a jaw droppingly beautiful – if somewhat touristy – place it sits on the Rio de La Plata, often mistaken as the ocean but is in fact a massive estuary separating Uruguay from Argentina. 

A ‘must visit’ for wine lovers. The Uruguayan grape speciality is Tannat and there are plenty of excellent local wines. A decent bottle of local wine is around $6-8.

On a clear day you can see Buenos Aires in the distance and Colonia del Sacramento is where you get the Buquebus Ferry if you want to visit Argentina by boat.

You can also pick up a Buquebus from Monevideo, La Paloma and several other cities in Uruguay. However, during covid, the trips are reduced and you need to do PCR tests before you travel. 

Must see in Colonia

Caliu EarthShip Hotel – designed and built by Michael Reynolds himself and run by a completely adorable Argentinian couple (Jesica and Mauro). The building is made entirely from recycled trash and earth. They also have a canteen on site if you just want to visit for a day. It’s sophisticated, eco friendly and so cool – eco-style to die for!

La Vigna – A jaw droppingly photogenic ‘Ecofarm’, again run by a charming (and semi-famous) Argentinion Couple – this place has been featured in the New York times, and one glimpse at the place and you’ll understand why. It oozes gaucho style and sophistication, they make everything themselves – they have a reputation as the best ‘farm to table’ restaurant in Uruguay and they are unique in that everything on the table is grown, bread or made on the farm.

Rio de la Plata Meets the Atlantic Coast and Punta del Este

Although you’re probably not visiting Uruguay for the beaches, the best ones are all found to the east of Montevideo in the departments of Canelones, Maldonado and Rocha.

Canelones and half of Maldonado are fronted by the Rio de La Plata where the water is a mix of river and ocean water. The seas here are more calm and clear and the beaches get extremely busy especially in high season (November to February). 

There Is also plenty of oceanic wildlife with whales, sea lions and elephant seals a regular feature in springtime. 

What to see on the Uruguayan Atlantic coast

Punta Colorada, The beautiful coastal city of Piriapolis and its surrounding beaches, the exclusive naturist resort (if that’s your thing) Chihuahua, the Iconic Casa Pueblo and Punta Ballena (Whale Point).

Punta del Este city is nicknamed ‘the Monaco of South America’, It’s more of an expensive beach resort than a city and has way less character than Montevideo but the surrounding coastline and beaches are some of the best in the country – which explains its popularity with the super rich from Brazil and Argentina – there’s even a half built ‘Trump Tower’. 

The nightlife and party scene are popular with elites and there is plenty to see, do, eat and drink if you can afford to splash out. 

Geographically the city coastline is divided in two regions: Brava (Spanish for “fierce”) and Mansa (Spanish for “tame”). The limit between the two marks the end of the Río de la Plata and the beginning of the Atlantic Ocean, and the split is signaled by the famous Mano de Punta del Este sculpture.

To the east of Punta del Este you have La Bara and Jose Ignatio. These are Uruguay’s most exclusive, bohemian beachside town resorts and often have astronomical accommodation and food prices to prove it. Both are very picturesque and worth a visit even if you can’t afford to eat or drink anything.

Rocha

Ask any Uruguayan – or traveller for that matter – what not to miss in Uruguay and they will say Rocha (the region not the city). Wild and free, with the whole coastline fronted by the Atlantic ocean and bordering Southern Brazil, Rocha (once part of Brazil), is the place to go for sun, surf, nature and adventure! If you ask me, this is the best region to visit in Uruguay.

La Paloma is the first and largest seaside town you hit when entering Rocha from the direction of Montevideo. It has every amenity you could need all year around such as banks and ATMs, 4 or 5 supermarkets, hardware and some retail clothes stores amongst the tourist shops.

The four main beaches – Serena, Anaconda, Balconda and Bahia Grande – are all equally beautiful but with the rough atlantic seas it’s best to pick your time of day for a dip.

Don’t miss: Laguna de Roach, the sunset from Playa Anaconda or the refurbished atmospheric lighthouse which sits on a small point with a beach famed for whale spotting in springtime.

La Pedrera is my favourite place in Uruguay. It’s a tiny, bohemian seaside town with a central street ‘the principal’ that is it’s beating heart. It sits on top of rocky cliffs (hence the name La Pedrera, the English translation is ‘the Stone’), which were once connected to Africa, as well as having a ‘bosque’ or woodland full of hummingbirds, Ibis, butterflies and wildflowers.

There is just something magical about the town, the two beaches and the adjoining villages of Punta Rubia and Santa Isabel. There is a cool, social, eco conscious community living there all year around so even in the dead of winter you will be greeted by smiling faces and can find a delicious coffee or bite to eat. The magic of the place is no secret though and in December and January the population swells tenfold with people from Montevideo and neighbouring Brazil.

La Pedrera also boasts one of the biggest and best Carnival parades outside of Montevideo.

Cabo Polonio is a protected national park with a village that has sprung up around the largest sea lion colony in Uruguay. It’s about as wild and remote as you can get in Uruguay, there are no roads into the ramshackle village so you park at the entrance and load everything you need onto the giant 4 x 4 trucks which carry you on the 10km, sand dune roller coaster ride to the village. There’s no running water and electricity is by solar power only. 

The wildlife and scenery is akin to Jurassic Park and if you go, try to spend at least one night marveling at the night sky with zero light pollution and the sounds of the sea lions rolling on the wind. However, don’t be fooled by its remote location. There’s a party scene to rival any location in Uruguay, and plenty of options to join the party or step away and enjoy the wilderness.

Punta del Diablo is the last seaside resort town – and only a 40 minute car journey from the Brazilian border town of Chuy. It’s a lively, popular and fun surf spot with a community all year around. For natural beauty and fun it’s on a par with its neighbours and it’s generally lower in price to stay, eat, drink and party (and is popular with a younger crowd).

Las Sierras de Rocha – set back about an hour’s drive from the coast is a set of small but beautiful rolling hills that are very worth exploring. Wild Carpinchos (or Capybara), and Rea’s (like ostriches but smaller), roam the valleys and watering holes. There’s also a handful of small but mighty eco-communities doing interesting work in this hidden corner of Uruguay.

El Interior

There are a few interesting cities dotted around in El Interior (basically any area away from the coast or Rio de la Plata), but there are also quite vast expanses with a whole heap of nothing in them. If you visit in Spring, Autumn or Winter and want to soak in some proper geo-thermal hot springs then Salto and Paysando are worth a visit. There’s also the novelty that you can throw a stone into Argentina across the river. 

Las Sierras de Minas are the closest you get to a mountain range in Uruguay. There are great hikes, beautiful valleys, waterfalls and wildlife a plenty.

Is Uruguay safe?

I have heard it said that Uruguay is ‘South America Lite’ and I’m inclined to agree. Statistically it is the least corrupt country in Lantin America, ranked first in the region for democracy, peace, quality of living, freedom of press, prosperity and security

Even petty crime is low, and violent street crime is almost unheard of. Uruguayans are a peaceful, “tranqui” bunch (super laid back). You never see a Uruguayan running FOR ANYTHING, they don’t get impatient in queues and come to think of it they don’t even shout. Perhaps it’s because there’s so few of them. 

With a population of only 3.5 million there is plenty of wide open spaces to get away from it all. Like any city/country it’s probably best not to wander around on your own late at night but it’s definitely a far cry from neighbouring Brazil which has a reputation for high street crime/gang violence.

When to go?

The climate in Uruguay is like no other place I have been. The high season (their summer)is from December to February and temperatures can reach 35 or 40 degrees during the day. However, don’t be fooled by the daytime temperatures. As soon as the sun goes down it gets cold. There are very few days in a year where you can wear flip flops and shorts all night. 

The winters are cold (but not freezing) and there are usually around 10 light frosts per winter but daytime temperatures in winter can also reach 25 – 30 degrees (they call it ‘Veranito’ little summer). It rains a lot all year round but never for more than a few days.

Spring and Autumn are amazing seasons, although not particularly hot there is less wind than in mid summer and a lot less tourists so great prices. Beware though, night times and mornings can be very cold and many houses are not well insulated.

Getting to Uruguay

Uruguay’s main airport is around 1 hour from the capital, Montevideo. There are a limited number of international connections, with several South American cities served such as Sao Paulo, Panama City and Bogota. For connections from Europe or North America, you’ll need to go through Madrid or Miami.

As mentioned, you can also arrive by boat from Buenos Aries, or overland from the neighbouring countries of Brazil and Argentina.

For more in depth information check out the excellent Guruguay guide run by Karen – a very helpful expat from Wales. UK. Karen has set up an extremely helpful, private facebook group for english speaking expats wishing to relocate to Uruguay permanently – Discover Uruguay. You have to apply to join but it’s well worth it if you’re thinking of relocating (or stuck here in a pandemic).

If you like this article check out the authors personal travel blog: https://mayalynchstuff.travel.blog/ and Instgram https://www.instagram.com/mayalynchstuff/ 

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