Riders: Ram & Naveen
Bikes: Royal Enfield Thunderbird 350CC & Bajaj Pulsar 200NS
Total Distance: 1150kms & 1132kms
Dates: 10th March to 13th March 2017
Day 1: Chennai|Bangalore to Trichy
As we have planned earlier, Myself(Ram) started from Chennai and Naveen started from Bangalore exactly by 6 PM on 10th March. We have planned to meet at Srirangam exactly at 12AM, expecting a 6 hour travel. I have made earlier arrangement for night stay in ‘Srirangam Yatri Nivas’. Naveen traveled via Krishnagiri > Salem > Namakkal > Srirangam and I got to know from him that night ride 80Kms before Srirangam is an Nightmare. I took the route of Tindivanam > Villupuram > Tholudur > Srirangam, which is pakka Highways and I can’t complaint even a single place.
Naveen Reached Srirangam by 11.50PM and I made it around 12.20AM. We got into ‘Yatri Nivas’ – Place owned by Srirangam Temple for Pilgrims stay. The place is so beautiful, but the rooms are not maintained well. Also, we lost quite of our sleep due to Mosquitoes. The Beds are also not comfortable but could be manageable for Rs.500 Per night stay. I explained the plan for next week and we planned to start early by tomorrow.
Day 2: Yatri Nivas > Srinivasanallur > Srirangam Renganathar Temple > Thiruvanaikaval > Kallanai > Lunch @ Man Paanai Samayal > Thiruverumbur > Malayadipatti > Kunandar Koil> Pudukottai
We planned to Start by 6 AM, but that slipped to 7 AM. We started to Srinivasanallur, which is of same route traveled by Naveen. 40 Kms from our place. We started and drove along the path way of Cauvery River and reached Srinivasanallur. The Kurangunathar temple was dislocated in Google Map and one who is reaching should take further more 1km from where the map points to see the historic Kurangunathar temple Built in the period of Parantaka Chola. A small temple with best architecture and sculptures all over it. It could be accessed anytime and there is not something called timings for this temple.
After spending few time out there, we returned back to Srirangam to Visit the Famous Renganathar temple. Though I have visited this temple earlier, it is always mesmerizing to see this Majestic temple. This temple has the history as earlier as Kumari Kandam and mostly all the Kings have made enhancement to this temple. As expected, the temple is full of crowd and we Moved away watching all the Scripts and Architecture.
Next we Moved towards Thiruvanaikaval. Jambugeshwara Temple which was built by famous Chola king Ko Chenganan. The temple is Majestic but filled with peoples around villages who were sleeping inside/washing and drying clothes on the Sculptures makes the Visitors unable to Enjoy the architecture. The Shiva Lingam here is placed below the normal land level, making the Karbagraha always wet with the Water underground. And it is considered as the ‘Water’ Sthalam of Shiva’s Pancha Sthalam.
And next we moved to Kallanai which is fondly called as ‘The Great Anaicut’ built by Famous Chola King Karikalan. The Story of how this Dam is built is very interesting and we can’t even think of building a Dam in the fast flowing river at that time without any hi-tech machines. There is a Manimandapam for Karikalan here, which is well maintained and more beautiful. Must visit place for all and not just for History lovers.
By that time it had become Noon. And Naveen said me about the ‘Manpaanai samayal’ shop which is located in Trichy. We planned to have our lunch @ Manpaanai samayal, though it is located 10Kms away from where we Stayed. In the Trichy traffic, with the help of Google map we managed to reach Manpaanai samayal and after entering there we realized it is worth of such a Struggle. Traditional food which will not be available in normal hotels are available here and everything is served in Clay Pot – And everything is more tastier than we expect. The secret is everything is not only served in Clay Pot, but also ‘Cooked’ in Clay pot. Interesting!
That interesting hotel made us eat more. Resulting in a little sleep, which wasn’t in our earlier plan. Then we packed our bag from Yatri Nivas and Travelled to Thiruverumbur. Unfortunately, suddenly Rain started and we spent half hour waiting the rain to Stop. By that time, we asked a nearby person about the temple we have to go and got to know, we have crossed it. So when it was drizzling a little, we started back and reached Thiruverumbur Temple. Erumbeeswarar is the main deity and is located in a small hill lock. We climbed up the hill and there were many historical Pillars along the rocks and had a beautiful view of the whole Village as well as the Long Trichy City. We enjoyed the beauty of temple and Naveen clicked many clicks with his Nikon Buddy! This temple has the inscriptions of most of the Chola kings and during 1752 this hill lock is used as Soldiers camp in British – French War.
Because of our unfortunate sleep and unexpected rain, I removed Cholamadevi from the list of places I planned earlier. We then moved to Malayadipatti,taking Right in Trichy-Tanjore highways. This is a rock-cut temple having Shrines of Shiva and Perumal. Both built during the periods of Pallavas and Muthrayars. Sculptures in Perumal temple is majestic and all the three postures of Perumal are here in a single view. There is a small pond outside the temple and between rocks which makes the temple more beautiful.
After visiting Malayadipatti, we moved towards Kunnandar Koil .By that time we reached the place, the whole place is full of Dark making to lose our sight. So we planned to take back and reach Pudukottai-Confirming revisit during our return. We had to strike out Keeranur from our List and Planned to cover ‘Narthamalai’ next day as it will not be possible to make to it after dark.
We reached Pudukottai around 8 PM and moved to ‘Sri Lakshme Lodge’ – which I have booked already. A very clean, Centrally located and Budget room we got. Rs.500 Per night. Very comfortable bed with Television. Their Yelakkai Tea is good and worth Rs.5/Cup. We had nice sleep and started early morning next day @ 6 AM.
Day 3: Pudukottai > Kudumiyan malai > Kodumbalur > Sittannavasal > Narthamalai > Thirumayam fort > Thirukokarnam > Thirukattalai > Pudukottai spl Podi Mass for Dinner > Sri Lakshmi Lodge
We reached Kudumiyan malai at the earliest. This is a must visit temple for everyone. This has more sculptures that makes us fear about. Lot of inscriptions dated to multiple kings makes us to predict this has been a famous place in history. There has been a rock cut shrine and Musical Kalvettu at the back of this temple. Unfortunately, it has been locked by the time we reached there. We requested the Priest out there to open the door as it was usual opening time. He refused to do as he was busy counting the funds for the Temple. He was harsh and spoke in a tone asking as to leave. We didn’t want to make it an issue, so we left halfheartedly. But we had given feast to our cameras capturing the sculptures around the temple.
We left the place and reached Kodumbalur around 9 AM. ‘Moovar Koil’ here is special built by Velir King Boothivikramakesari. The temple is built around 10th century during the period of Sundara Chola Parantaka II, which resembles the Architectural beauty of Tamil Kings. The place is well maintained by Archeology Department, but has been closed by the time we reached. We asked about the person who maintains the place and the nearby peoples said that is the time it will be opened and they asked as to wait. We waited… We waited.. We waited… Lost hope and we continued to next place.
This time to the place we have read in History Books. Sittanavasal. We reached the place and a Jain Saint statue welcomed us to Sittanavasal, which is very nearby to the road. We visited the place and went looking for the Jain Caves. In the next 3 to 4 kms we reached the Welcome Arc of Jain caves. We entered and parking charges were Rs.10 Per vehicle. We got down at Jain beds first. Entrance charges were Rs.15 per head and we have to climb a quite challenging hill and that would lead us to Jain beds (Where Jain saints would sleep) – Which is carved for bed and Pillow in rocks. There is not much to see in this place and the place is filled with people scribbles making the place more worst. Not a worth of this climb. Then after 1 km we reached the Jain cave which had paintings that has been compared to famous Ajanta cave Paintings. This hill is quite easier with just around 45 steps and again Rs.15 Per head here. There are not much paintings, but the available few is so beautiful and really a Identity card to the South Indian Ancient Paintings. There are sculptures of Some Jain saints as well.
We then moved to Narthamalai. And this turned out to be most interesting part in our whole ride. Narthamalai is a small village located close to Trichy – Pudukottai road. When we reached Narthamalai, we could see the Temple on the hill lock. We asked the nearby boys, on the way to reach the temple and they said it has be climbed on the raw rock. This time Naveen said an idea of Climbing the hill along with the bike. This is something I have tried never before. I accepted, even though I had doubt of achieving it. He lead me from front. I followed him and we made it to the top riding on the raw rocks. Made the most memorable one. Thanks to Naveen. We then walked a little to see the majestic temple ‘Vijayalaya Choleeswaram’. Built during Mutharaiyars period and has been modified/renovated during the famous king Vijayalaya Cholan period. Closely we have Jain rock cut caves and Perumal rock cut caves making the place more beautiful. Additionally, many sculptures in famous Tanjore Big temple is built from the rocks of mountains around Narthamalai.
Realising the Pride we had, we then moved further to Thirumayam. Thirumayam has a perumal and shiva rock cut temple, which was closed at the time we reached. We then moved to Thirumayam fort. It costs Rs.15 per head. The fort is constructed by Vijayaraghunatha Sethupathi – Raja of Ramnad in 1687. The fort has a shrine for Shiva lingam too, which can be accessed only by Ladder making us to think how they made it at earlier periods. We then moved further up the hills looking all over the fort. On the top there was one rustic canon and what one could have is a enchanting view of around places. Even the canon is scribbled by peoples who come there.
Not much to see there we climbed down and asked for a nearby hotel and they showed me Meena mess which is very closely located. It is ran at the back of a house. Unlimited Meals per plate is Rs.50 with Veg and Non-veg. They had much varieties of a all items and it tastes Super! Worth the penny you spend. They show the list of Non-veg items in a big plate first to you, giving options for you to select and by that time saliva would be generated in your tongue.
After lunch we headed back to room. Had rest and started in evening to Thirukokarnam. It is within the city and a rock-cut temple built by famous Pallava king Mahendravarman I. The temple is called as ‘Brihadambal Temple’, as goddess Brihadambal is the family deity of Tondaiman kings who ruled the Pudukottai State in the later Princely Periods. The rockcut, shiva shrine is well beautifully carved and the temple is enhanced in later king’s periods.
Then we headed to Thirukattalai. The Sundareswara temple here is built by Famous Chola king Aditya Chola I. The architecture of the temple depicts the Choza Architecture. Small yet beautiful temple. There has been few children posing for the photos and Naveen clicked all of them. We could see the pride they had on their face once he showed the snaps to them. While Naveen has been clicking snaps around the temple, we are shocked to see he lost his Footwear outside. We inquired the person outside and he said none other than we two and the children came that side. Unsure of who took it, Naveen wished to move without making it as an issue. So we left the place.
We have been thinking to have our dinner at a famous place in Pudukottai and when we searched in Internet we got to know about Muthupillai canteen. We entered Muthupillai Canteen after few searches and they are the one who introduced famous pudukottai ‘Muttai Mass’. Everything we ordered were very tasty – Muttai Mass, Parota, Idiyappam, Veg Kuruma, Chicken Kuruma, Mutton Kuruma, Kaadai, Muttai Veechu… Don’t miss out if you are in Pudukottai.
Then we rested the night in the same ‘Sri Lakshmi Lodge’.
Day 4: Pudukottai > Kunnandar koil > Tanjore > Darasuram > Gangai Konda Cholapuram > Chennai
We started the day earlier @ 6 AM. We moved to Kunnandar koil, which we missed due to darkness on the second day. We have been welcomed by 100 Pillar, must have been built during Vijayanagara empire period. We then moved in and the main deity shiva is a rock cut. The temple is beautiful and there are few sculptures which are more beautiful. We then climbed up the hill, viewing a small Murugar Shrine must have been built later periods.
We then moved further to Tanjore and ended up in Tanjore Big temple. This temple never forget to amuse me even if it is my ‘n’th visit. The Majestic, Great temple. The Pride of Tamilnadu. The Pride of Tamilans Architecture. Built by the Great Raja Raja Chola I. It would take a full new post. But think of 216 Feet height Vimana, the whole temple built in just 12 yrs at 10th Century. Can you even imagine? We were also awestruck and spent time clicking snaps.
Halfheartedly, we left the place and ended up in Darasuram. If Tanjore is majestic in size, Darasuram(Iravadeswarar Temple) is meant to be known for miniature sculptures. The Sculptures which is not even the height of our baby finger depicts the ability of Tamil Sculptor. Mark my words, you will lose your whole day if you get to know the full beauty of Darasuram temple. We then moved further…
I have read about Mangalambikai vilas in Kumbakonam which serves Traditional food. We searched and got into it. More than 100 yrs historical shop, serving tasty South Indian meals for Rs.70 Per head. Their Vathakolambu tastes like which you had never before. I have read about their coffee tastes, but unfortunately they are not making Coffee in Noon and only in Mornings and Evenings.
After having nice food. We then moved to Gangai Konda Cholapuram. Architecture resembling the Tanjore temple built by Rajendra Chola I, Son of Raja Raja I. This Shiva lingam is bigger than what we saw in Tanjore. The front Gopuram is been destroyed little by Invaders and Britishers. The temple is well maintained and you will be lost by its beauty. A must visit for all travelers.
After-which we started back to Chennai. In rain, hot sun, strong wind we rode back to Chennai via Panruti > Vikravandi > Tindivanam > Chennai. Ending our most memorable ride, which is equally aggressive.
Pic Courtesy: Naveen Kumar
