After leaving Budapest feeling somewhat deflated, I had high hopes for the second city on our tour of the Balkans. As the bus turned into the station, at the fall of dusk, I already knew my lack of research on Belgrade (Beograde in Serbian) would either be a curse or a blessing. It was too late now, we had arrived, fresh off the bus. It’s safe to say I’m no stranger to bus stations; I’ve been on more local buses than I care to count during my travels. And so I braced myself for the awkward dance that would soon take place. A step to the left to avoid that greasy-haired hustler with a cigarette dangling off his lips. A step to the right in the hopes that eagle-eyed haggler doesn’t spot us. A shuffle around the parked cars trying to sneak by those snarky taxi drivers. But once the fleet of passengers had dispersed, each going their own way, we were left standing alone with our backpacks and a swirl of dust at our feet. There were no hustlers, no hagglers, not even a single taxi driver. The dance was off.
I didn’t know it then, but this was the first of many surprises bold and gritty Belgrade had in store for me.
Before I wax poetic about how much I enjoyed my time in Belgrade, let me first say that it isn’t the best-looking city. In fact, it can appear to be quite gritty. But what it lacks in looks, it makes up for in unabashed boldness. Maybe I was mistaken in my interpretation but I noticed this boldness in the way people walked – a confident stride laced with a dash of (patriotic?) pride. And this sense of pride shined in the way they dressed: stylish, prim, swanky – I certainly didn’t expect Serbs to be so fashion-oriented!
What’s more, Belgrade has a big city feel all wrapped up in a small package; it’s big enough to offer an array of activities sure to please most visitors and, yet, it’s small enough to enjoy traipsing around without getting frustratingly lost. Which was perfect for me as I prefer to walk whenever possible. And I can’t forget to mention the awesome, upbeat vibe that transpired through throughout the air. It was so intoxicating, I was excited to start exploring!
A TOUCH OF BOHEMIA
Once I found out about a bohemian street in this post-Soviet era city, a true epitome of contrasts, my curiosity couldn’t be contained. Skadarlija is the name of the neighborhood located in the old part (Stari Grad) of town from which the quintessentially bohemian street gets its name from. The pedestrian cobble-stone street is lined with cozy restaurants offering outdoor seating (during the warmer months) in an idyllic setting surrounded by blooming flowers and weathered artists. The back walls of the buildings facing Skadarlija have been beautified with wonderful illusionary art, stunning in their simplicity.
Despite being only a short walk from the more modern, upscale city center, Skadarlija has managed to preserve its bohemian legacy left by the Gypsies/Romani back in 1830 who were the original founders (unbeknownst to them it would become an integral part of Belgrade and the second most visited attraction in the city).
The pedestrian street stretches for less than half a kilometer so it didn’t take long for us to walk its length. It was just as well as it gave us the chance to discover the neighborhood itself home to a few artsy shops, vintage-inspired cafes and raggedy houses. As a first-timer, it felt like the soul of Belgrade lived and thrived in Skadarlija!
GET YOUR SHOPPING ON
Knez Mihailova is the main shopping street in the city center. Also a pedestrian street but much less charming, Knez Mihailova is where all the international brands and shops can be found including an ultra-modern shopping mall, Rajiceva, at one end of the street.
We were there in late-September when the weather was still pleasantly warm and the street was filled with stylish people (walking their handsome dogs), snack stands (get some popcorn!), street performers, hopeful artists and teenagers dressed to impress. We ended up here every night not to shop but, rather, to simply take in the lively atmosphere. It was obvious strutting along Knez Mihailova street at night was a favourite pastime for Belgradians – the street was always packed!
AN URBAN OASIS
I would consider myself a city girl – I rather explore a city for hours than hike especially when traveling – but my ideal city also has loads of green space to offer much-needed solace from the urban grind. And why not add a beach to that perfect mix? Enter Ada Ciganlija, a vast public park/beach set along the shores of the man-made Sava Lake. This is where urbanites get their fix of clean oxygen and Vitamin C. In seeing a few last lingering bikini-clad sunbathers in late-September, it’s no surprise the pebble beach is said to be swarming during the hot and steamy Summer months.
Ada Ciganlija is an urban oasis serving up a plate of enjoyments. The boardwalk is nicely set up with restaurants offering international menus, a handful of trendy bars playing the latest hits and a few ice cream vendors (an essential part of any beach). Parasols and lounge chairs are available (for rent?) for beach-combers and picnic tables randomly scattered around beckon park-dwellers to bring their own meals. As for us, we chose the latter and sat ourselves on a picnic bench to enjoy some farniente under the crisp, blue sky.
Fun Tip: The big BELGRADE sign in red and white letters is at the entrance of the park to Ada Ciganlija. It makes for a fun photo op!
STROLLING ALONG THE DANUBE RIVER
Thankfully, city administrators were smart enough to include a paved walking/cycling path along the river stretching for kilometers on end. After spending a few hours basically doing nothing at Ada Ciganlija, we decided to walk back to the city along the Danube River where we saw men patiently waiting under a setting sun for their fishing hooks to snag a catch. We also spotted several hip floating river bars (called “splavs” – popular in Belgrade) getting ready to receive the nocturnal party crowds and, best of all, we witnessed Belgrade lighting up at night.
STREET ART IN SAVAMALA
Given Belgrade’s reputation for being bland and grey (no thanks to its Communist past), some of its residents took it upon themselves to spruce up one of its less-desirable neighborhoods by asking street artists to embellish the decrepit buildings. The result is a hodgepodge of amateur graffiti, artistic murals and spray-painted tags rendering Savamala the most creative quarter of Belgrade. It’s also here where a few funky, alternative bars have taken up residency attracting hipsters, underdogs, dancing queens and bar flyers – a patchwork of the city’s young, vibrant spirit.
Savamala is grungy to say the least but I sensed its walls spoke of hope and pain, of struggles and triumphs – the signs of a city slowly going through a decidedly transformative phase.
BELGRADE FORTRESS & KALEMEGDAN PARK
Belgrade Fortress sits atop a hill (citadel) at the confluence of the legendary Danube River and the Sava River. The few remaining original relics of the fortress are several centuries old but the wall itself has been built and rebuilt numerous times throughout the years. Nonetheless, it remains Belgrade’s oldest historical site and its number one tourist attraction.
As soon as the sun sets, both Kalemegdan Park and the fortress (entrance is free!) are a magnet for families and couples (and singles!) alike wanting to take an evening stroll or simply sit on the stone walls. This is the best place to take in the views of Lower Belgrade and leafy New Belgrade across the river and we kindly obliged as we watched the brilliantly orange sun set. The park is right next to the city center, more specifically at the end of Knez Mihailova street, making it an easy add-on to a day of sightseeing (or shopping).
BAJLONI FARMERS’ MARKET
As avid seekers of local markets, we were really happy to stumble across this farmers’ market while aimlessly walking around the Bohemian quarter. I was delighted in seeing the plethora of fresh fruits and vegetables all grown locally in the Serbian countryside. The terracotta-roof houses were a lovely backdrop for the rows and rows of stalls brimming with produce, baskets of brightly-hued flowers and a whole lot of hot chili peppers!
SAINT-MARK’S CHURCH
A few churches are scattered in and around Belgrade but for some reason we missed the most historically-significant, Saint-Sava Church. Oh well! But we did get a chance to visit Saint-Mark’s Church and it was the first of its kind for me. Although not exceptionally old, Saint-Mark’s Orthodox Church was built as early as 1940 in a beautiful Serbo-Byzantine style. The interior is an extensive work-in-progress but the finely-detailed frescoes that have been completed are impressive and well worth a look. Again, the church is within walking distance to the city center making it easy to check off the list of things to see in Belgrade.
Belgrade was the jumping off point of our tour of the Balkans and my first time in this region. I have to say, the bar was set pretty high after spending two days here. I know two days isn’t much but that’s all it took to fall for bold and gritty Belgrade!
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