The strawberry fields in this idyllic corner of Chiang Mai don't quite go on forever, but while they're bearing fruit there can be few sweeter destinations for a day trip
Located in a valley west of Chiang Mai, the only access to this district is via narrow, winding roads lined on both sides by farms. Negotiating this route recently, I paused after passing several cars that had stopped by the side of the road to disgorge day-trippers in colourful attire. Armed with cameras or tablet computers, the passengers dashed into a nearby plantation which had a sign advertising strawberries for sale, emitting cries of joy when they discovered their quarry hiding under a dense layer of leaves. Then everybody started snapping pictures and striking poses as if the little red berries were some magical treasure they had long been seeking. Thanks to a temperate climate and the consistently good prices this succulent fruit fetches at market, strawberry farming has become a growth industry in Samoeng and is now a major source of income for local residents. "All the strawberry plants raised in Samoeng originally came from Bo Kaeo, a village at an elevation above 1,000m. Situated, as it is, high on a mountain, around 20km north of Samoeng, Bo Kaeo is cold enough for the strawberry plants to flower," explains Wimarn Sirpen, an academic based at the Pang Da Royal Agricultural Station in Samoeng. A typical farm in these parts can produce more than 3,000kg of strawberries per rai per year, for which quantity wholesalers will pay around 120,000 baht. This is a high-value yield, compared to the revenue earned by other crops, so it is hardly surprising that farmers in this area have shifted en masse to cultivating these juicy berries. More than 3,000 rai of land is now given over to this crop, sales of which generate between 300 and 400 million baht annually. Initially the fruit was raised in closed systems to protect the plants from predatory insects and disease, but after realising the potential for direct sales, some forward-looking farmers began catering to tourists, erecting signs that invite passing motorists to stop and pick their own strawberries for a modest fee. Family groups and tour parties are welcome to linger a while and enjoy the rural atmosphere _ or even spend the night.
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| Retail prices for strawberries in Samoeng vary greatly, ranging from 50 baht per kilogramme all the way up to 250 baht/kg. While every farmer I spoke to claimed that his or her berries were raised organically, it is difficult to check the truth of these statements. If you want to be certain that the fruit you are buying is free of chemical pesticides and herbicides, the best solution is to buy some directly from Royal Agricultural Station outlets which sell produce from certified organic farms for around 200 baht/kg. |
Late last month I set out to drive to Napa Phupha after learning that this farm, one of the pioneers of strawberry cultivation in Samoeng, also offered accommodation. A few days earlier I had called to make enquiries and was informed that there were lots of vacancies. "It's a weekday and this isn't the tourist season," the owner told me over the phone, "so you can check in at any time." But when I got there I was stunned to find the place had been taken over by a TV production crew. Every single room was occupied. "I remember... it was you that made that call," was how the farmer greeted me. "Sorry, but we're now completely full. We got a big group of walk-in guests, you see. They're here to shoot a series for Channel 3." Swallowing my disappointment, I drove farther along the road towards the district capital to find that Napa Phupha was far from being the only accommodation option in these parts. Several other strawberry farms rent rooms out, too. And the deeper I ventured, the more creative schemes to attract business I discovered. Some farmers have erected shelters under which visitors can get welcome respite from the sun and take a break from their berry-picking and photo-taking; water and other beverages are usually available. Other entrepreneurs have had the bright idea of providing rubber boots and straw hats so that city types can get kitted out like farm labourers and pose for pictures. Several plantations boast wireless internet access, enabling visitors to upload their holiday images promptly. And one farmer has even gone to the trouble of building a beautiful double-deck pavilion with a thatched roof for the benefit of guests who want to rest awhile and admire the scenery.
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| The Pang Da Royal Agricultural Station in Samoeng is a good place to learn the intricacies of cultivating temperateclimate fruit. Horticulturists based here have already successfully experimented with growing species of seedless grape and sweet starfruit — crops which have the potential to generate high income for farmers. The scientists’ latest project is finding a variety of fig tree which will do well in local climatic conditions. This native of the Middle East is increasing in popularity here with a kilogramme now retailing for as much as 400 baht in highend Bangkok supermarkets. The caretaker who took me around the Pang Da orchard very generously allowed me to sample a succulent, freshly plucked fig — which was delicious! |
A few places have also prepared camp-sites and encourage people who drop by to spend the night so that they can rise, like real farmers, at the crack of dawn and head out to the fields to gather strawberries. "We offer a full-board package, including accommodation in tents, so that guests can experience the lifestyle of a strawberry farmer," the operator of one such tourism-orientated farm assured me. "We serve a dinner of Korean-style grilled pork with everyone sitting around a camp-fire. It'll be a great experience, better than you could possibly imagine!" At another roadside smallholding I spotted a lovey-dovey couple dawdling among the neat rows of strawberry beds, whispering to each other and giggling as they tried to find the best angles from which to take photos. Children, small buckets in hand, combed through the foliage looking for the ripest fruit. Not far away some adults, maybe the kids' parents, were unpacking a picnic lunch; others were checking out local hand-made products for sale and tasting unusual dishes made from strawberries by the farmer's wife.
There can be few healthier ways to spend the day than a visit to Samoeng to enjoy the fresh air, sweet strawberries and the warm hospitality of those who make a living growing them.
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| Located in Hang Dong district, near Kilometre Post 17 on Road No.1269, is a unique homestay cum bed-and-breakfast. Called Jukawan Baandin, it offers very chic accommodation in little huts made from packed clay (baan din ). The exterior walls are painted in vivid colours and the interiors imaginatively decorated with handicrafts. This arty place attracts a steady stream of travellers who find its ambience and bucolic setting most inspirational. |
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| Strawberry farms which cater to tourists normally erect cute-looking signs and other props for visitors to pose against while their companions snap pictures. Entry to most farms is free, but some places do charge a fee; the owners say this is to cover the cost of the rubber boots, straw hats and buckets they lend to visitors who want to look the part in photos. |
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| Strawberry farmers in Samoeng do their best to maximise sales by creating additional products designed to pique the interest of foodies. Besides masses of the fresh scarlet berries, you are also likely to find the fruit in dried form, fermented into an alcoholic ‘‘wine’’ and preserved as tasty jams. Some of the locals have even experimented with the fruit in savoury dishes such as fried rice with strawberries and strawberry omelettes. |
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TRAVEL INFO- Samoeng is around 52km from Chiang Mai city. It can be reached via Highway 1096, if you’re coming from the direction of Mae Rim, or Highway 1269 for those travelling from Hang Dong district. - Buses heading for Samoeng depart from Warorot Market in central Chiang Mai on a regular basis between 8am and 6pm. The one-way fare is 75 baht. Public-transport options are limited, making it difficult to get around Samoeng without a vehicle of your own; we recommend that you drive there. - Strawberry plants in Samoeng start bearing Fruit in November and continue fruiting until mid-April. |
Article Soure : bangkokpost.com
