In Kherson, the locals speak of life “before” and “after” the flood, referring to the devastating effects of the Kakhovka dam explosion on June 6th. The area near the mouth of the Dnieper river was submerged, with water rising up to six meters high in some places, causing destruction and toxic leaks. The landscape has drastically changed, fishermen note, as docks have turned into beaches and reed-filled fishing spots are now covered in sand.

The front line runs along the river, creating a “no-man’s-land” similar to the Berlin Wall, according to one soldier. Since Ukraine regained control of Kherson in November 2022, Russian and Ukrainian reconnaissance teams have been engaged in a constant game of cat and mouse among the islands in the area. The control of these islands is crucial for the Ukrainians to establish a foothold on the Russian-controlled east bank, posing a threat to Crimea and forcing Russia to deploy additional troops.

The marshy terrain proves to be a formidable obstacle for Ukrainian fighters as they navigate through the area to reach Russian defenses. Even before reaching the Russian defenses, Ukrainian soldiers need to keep their armoured vests unzipped and their boots unlaced, as they face the risk of having to quickly shed their gear if they fall into the water. The flood caused by the dam explosion has also resulted in loose river mines and explosives canisters, adding to the dangers faced by soldiers in this region.

One Ukrainian soldier, known by the nickname Beaver, led a team back to one of the larger islands in a daring five-day operation. They traversed the river in a dinghy, carrying all necessary supplies, during a perilous ten-minute crossing. Beaver recalled an incident where he lost contact with two of his men during a night march, only finding them later because one of them was snoring loudly.

As Beaver and his team ventured further into the island, they encountered the aftermath of the flood, with houses, steps, debris, and silted-up buildings scattered across the mudscape. They had to find shelter and possible observation positions while also considering the deployment of an anti-drone rifle. This device emits radio waves to disrupt the connection between an enemy drone and its operator, allowing the Ukrainians to capture and disable it. Despite the challenges posed by the flood, Beaver remained determined, saying that he struggled to orient himself due to the drastic changes in the landscape.

The flood had a devastating impact on the local wildlife, sweeping away many creatures. However, turtles seemed to have thrived in this new environment, and the soldiers had to deal with rampant mosquitoes throughout their mission. They relied on the barking of a solitary dog left behind as an alarm for any approaching threats. Beaver once heard a Russian team nearby and promptly called an artillery strike on their position, without bothering to check the casualties.

In the city of Kherson itself, life has been drastically altered by the conflict. The population has diminished from nearly 300,000 to approximately 50,000. Many shops and businesses have shut down, while shattered buildings stand as stark reminders of the ongoing battle. Weeds have overgrown the pavements, and playgrounds are empty. The banks of the Dnieper river remain inaccessible, as the streets leading there are exposed to Russian positions on the opposite side.

The battle for control of the river is slow and precarious, with small reconnaissance teams navigating the delta under the cover of darkness in inflatable rubber boats. The fight continues in the Kherson Delta, as both sides strategize and brave the challenges presented by the landscape and the ever-present threat of conflict.

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