They’re a Champagne house from the southern part of the region, and I am particularly fond of their Rosé de Saignée, Code 76183, a delicate pink sparkler with delicious ripe raspberry aromas and a palate-cleansing finish.

This is absolutely acceptable, though some of my favorite whites for pairing with fish come from France (Sauvignon Blanc from Touraine, Muscadet from the Loire and Picpoul de Pinet from the Languedoc are all excellent choices).

Code 78950, The Steven Kent Winery Winemaker’s Selection Chardonnay, California 2016, $11.99 – A lovely Chard that isn’t overly oaked but has just the right amount of toast to make everyone happy.

Code 78958, Berne Selection Emotion Rose Cotes de Provence 2017, $11.99 – Rosé is a style that is oft overlooked outside of spring and summer, but the versatility with food make this an invaluable companion at dinnertime.

Code 78918, Santa Julia Magna Uco Valley 2017, $11.99 – A perennial favorite of mine, this Argentinian red over-delivers with plenty of black fruit and a depth and complexity that belie the modest price tag.

The one thing you do miss out on with a screw top is a nasty chemical called trichloroanisole, which accounts for the phenomenon of “corked” bottles, which smell of mold and wet cardboard.