Nomoli Totem Spiky earrings by Matturi, pay tribute to African culture and history.
Christmas is when the fire and ice of diamonds come into their own. But the seasonal sparkle comes at a high price to the environment, and unless a stone is completely traceable, it is almost impossible to say whether was mined in a war zone or sold to fund conflict.
Consumer demand for more ethical practices is driving industry change, however. The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme, set up in 2003, now certifies billions of dollars worth of conflict-free diamonds each year, while artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM) is thought to represent up to 20% of the mining industry. Following the success story of the Botswana mining industry, governments and industry bodies in some countries are working to make it safer for miners and ensure profits are re-invested into local communities.
Beabond uses carbon-neutral Botswanamark diamonds and recycled gold in jewelry like the Running … [+]
Above-ground diamonds, ‘grown’ in reactors are also increasingly popular. Although there is debate around how environmentally friendly such an energy-intensive practice is, some lab-grown diamond companies are innovating to address this. Carbon-neutral-certified Diamond Foundry uses renewable energy only, and is experimenting with growing bespoke stones; three cross pendants were recently made using a single diamond each, to create ‘solitaire crosses’ for the company’s retail offshoot Vrai, cut from a 30ct lab-grown original stone.
Perhaps the most ethical way of buying diamonds, is to choose antique jewelry or repurpose vintage stones. Makers are reported more commissions for re-working existing jewels, and the market is opening up for pre-loved diamond jewelry on luxury re-selling sites like Vestiaire Collective, and more specialized platforms like Particulieres NYC.
Just in time for last-minute gifts, eleven jewelry designers present responsible options for diamond jewelry gifts this Holiday season.
Mid-Century Kahn oval ring by Shahla Karimi, 14kt gold and a choice of central stone, 2 carat … [+]
New York-based jewelry designer Shahla Karimi creates jewelry designed to capture memories, infused with a sense of nostalgia. The Mid-Century Kahn ring, is inspire by the architecture of Louis Kahn and designed to be worn either as a solitaire or a cigar band. Karimi offers clients the choice of an ethically sourced, Kimberly-certified central stone, or an above-ground diamond grown using Diamond Foundry’s certified carbon-neutral process.
Nile fringe earrings by Vanleles, 18kt gold and white diamond, $19,403, available on 1st Dibs.
At the helm of the world’s first female-founded African-rooted fine jewelry house, Vania Leles is known for finely crafted, dramatic gemstone jewels and a focus on using materials that are fairly sourced and responsibly produced in Africa. Fresh from Sotheby’s blockbusting Brilliant and Black selling exhibition in the Fall, Vanleles was also a part of NYC Jewelry Week’s Here We Are incubator for BIPOC designers, whose work is now on sale at 1st Dibs. These fringe earrings pay tribute to the Nile, in 18kt gold and ethically sourced white diamonds.
Kudu pendant by Beabond, 14kt recycled gold, enamel and carbon-neutral Botswanamark diamond, $3,625
Beabond diamond jewelry is some of the most responsible around, inspired by founder Ferelith Moltke’s five years spent living in the country with her young family. Using the completely traceable, carbon-neutral, artisanally mined Botswanamark diamonds that have made such a contribution to Botswana’s recent economic success, the Kudu pendant above is handcrafted from 14kt recycled gold and enamel in tribute to one of the country’s most recognizable forms of wildlife. Beabond are also donating 20% of profits from the Mokola collection to Ngamiland Basket Weavers’ Trust.
The Fissure ring by Capucine H, recycled, non-rhodium-treated white gold, responsibly sourced … [+]
Recent Central Saint Martins graduate Capucine Huguet’s singular jewels tell a story of the earth. Specifically, she aims to educate her audience about the climate emergency and is passionate about building a sustainable jewelry business, working solely in recycled metals and gemstones which are either ethically mined or repurposed. Her first collection, Wahlenbergbreen Mementos, was inspired by a trip to Svalbard to study melting glaciers. The Fissure ring, above, represents the ‘chaos and ephemerality’ of melting ice and the loss of the precious data about the earth that had been conserved in the glaciers. After triumphing at the Hyères Festival in October, where she won the Grand Prix for fashion accessories, she’s currently working on pulling more beauty out of such destruction, with a second collection.
Nomoli Totem Spiky earrings by Matturi, 18kt yellow gold, artisanal-mined brilliant-cut diamonds, … [+]
Sierra Leone-born Satta Matturi set up her brand to honor African diamond communities, placing provenance front and center and investing in community and supply chain initiatives. Matturi’s responsible jewelry is steeped in African history and her most recent collection, Whispers of Meroe, explores the cultural exchange between Egypt and the ancient kingdom of Kush, famed for its warrior queens. The Nomoli Totem earrings are a signature, seen here crafted from diamonds sourced responsibly from artisan mines in Zambia, Kenya, Malawi and Tanzania, 18kt gold and custom-cut onyx.
Aialik cuff bracelet by Neha Dani, blue moonstones and responsibly sourced diamonds in 18kt white … [+]
Born and raised in India, Neha Dani is slow jewelry incarnate. Starting with sketches and wax carvings, she sometimes spends years looking for the right stones for a particular concept. Consequently, she turns out just 15-20 pieces a year, each of which are meticulously developed and produced entirely by hand, from ethical materials. Eschewing the traditional path expected of her, she graduated from GIA to work in gemology in both the UK and India, before turning to design, producing jewels marked by exceptional movement and originality.
Antique marquise-shaped diamond ring, Caillou Paris, price on application.
“It’s not the rock that makes the jewel, it’s the story,” says gemologist Anne-Lise Delsol, and she’s on a mission to modernize vintage jewelry. Behind each piece is a meticulously researched explainer, many of which she shares on her beautifully curated Instagram account. Buying vintage diamonds, like this finger-lengthening marquise antique diamond ring, is the only way you can be sure you are neither impacting the environment irreparably, nor taking revenue away from mining communities with your purchase, and Delsol’s edit hits the sweet spot.
The Tide earrings by Matilde, recycled 14kt gold and cultivated diamonds, $990
Matilde is barely a year old, but the brand is already making waves in the jewelry industry for its sustainable approach. Matilde Mourinho started the label in response to the harm caused by the jewelry industry to the environment, and uses exclusively lab-grown diamonds and recycled gold in her accessible, environmentally sustainable fine jewelry. The Tide earrings feel fresh and chic and for those in London, Matilde is currently holding a pop-up at Ham Yard Village in Soho until Christmas Eve.
You Spin Me Round ring by Francesca Villa; pink gold, rubrum red coral, fossilized mammoth bone, … [+]
Repurposing antique materials runs through Francesca Villa‘s design DNA and her Venetian glass earrings, bone bead rings and vintage casino chip necklaces are now well-known. Ethically sourced diamonds and colored gemstones are used judiciously to accent vintage treasures at her Crova.lab atelier, which is not only RJC-certified, but also COC-certified for the use of recycled gold. The You Spin Me Round ring teams recycled pink gold with red coral, fossilized mammoth bone, enamel and a dusting of diamonds.
The Scimitar thorn diamond necklace by Cathy Waterman, 22kt gold, platinum and responsibly sourced … [+]
A long-time proponent of ethical practices and sustainable materials, Cathy Waterman has been using recycled metals since 1989. Sustainability is a lifestyle for the designer, whose fairytale jewels are deeply inspired by nature, and she makes sure that her gemstones are ethically sourced. The Scimitar Thorn diamond necklace, from Waterman’s current collection, is made from recycled 22kt gold and platinum, accented with 0,4ct of responsibly sourced diamonds. Waterman also recently created an ethical diamond necklace for the 10th anniversary of the White Bird jewelry gallery in Paris.
The Jeanne ring by Héloïse & Abelard, 18kt rose gold and recycled diamonds, $2,484, available online … [+]
This eco-responsible Paris-based brand gathers diamonds from pre-loved jewels to re-use in their own, deceptively simple jewelry like the Jeanne ring above, as second-hand stones take on new life scattered across 18kt recycled gold. Designer Héloise Shapiro also creates made-to-measure and semi-bespoke pieces from pre-existing materials for private clients. Her collections are available online and also at a pop-up at Paris department store Printemps Haussmann until February 2, 2022.
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The post Holiday Gift Guide 2021: Ethical Diamond Jewelry – Forbes first appeared on Magikal Journeys Jewelry Handmade.
