Did you know Tsavo West National Park is famed for its man-eating lions. 

This huge 22.000 sq.km of red soil and volcanic wilderness was an impenetrable thicket of heat and bush through which the first train tracks were built from Mombasa to Kenya. The Tsavo West lions now only occasionally put a man on the menu but the heat and the dust and the volcanoes remain.

Tsavo National Park is made up of two parks; Tsavo East and Tsavo West. The East has more animals and offers you a great chance of seeing Tsavo lions but for many west is best. Due to its immense size and often thick bush, the chance of seeing lions in Tsavo is less likely than some of the other parks, but Tsavo is a sum of all its parts and you'd be missing out if you went there just for the animals. The beauty of Tsavo is, well, is the beauty. A Kenyan safari destination that is as raw and rugged as any of your ‘Out of Africa’ dreams and landscape that paints the horrific reality of the creation of the railroad and the dangers that the railroad workers faced.

Tsavo East for lions, game spotting and the Galana River.

Tsavo East is the better park for animal viewing as it has less ground cover and trees. Its hectares of barren red soil offers adventurers a good chance of spotting wildlife. Both Tsavo East and West are home to all the Big 5 but I am assured that there are more lions in Tsavo East. 

Visit the Lugard Falls in Tsavo East. 

A stripe of green in the red, red savannah where the Athi and Tsavo rivers join to form the Galana River in Tsavo East. This permanent river is the life source of huge importance to the wildlife, and a great place to spot Tsavo lions as they come to quench their thirst. The Lugard Falls are rapids that have carved unusual rock formations from the volcanic rock. There is a hippo pool and several viewing spots from where you can spot hippo or crocodiles doing their thing.

Tsavo West for the volcanic landscape, caves and Mzima Springs

Make no mistake Tsavo West still has its fair share of game. The trees, dense vegetation and long grasses in the wet season make it harder but the animals are here, including several prides of lion. I visited Tsavo West this weekend and saw 4 different elephant families, zebra, giraffe, owls, eagles, vultures, eland, crocodile, hippo, gazelle, impala, oryx, hornbill, Cape Buffalo… others who were there this weekend saw Wild Dog. 

To get the most out of your safari the best way to visit Tsavo West is to plan to visit the various attractions and spot game en route. But where to visit?

Shetani Lava Flow

The jagged rocks of the Shetani Lava flow are an awe-inspiring reminder of the power of nature. In Kenya, we have 7 active volcanoes and the stark volcanic landscape, where little plant life and few animals exist hundreds of years after the last eruption, is an uncomfortable reminder of the fragility of our human settlements. A harsh landscape of grey-black magma stretches towards the Chyulu Hills volcanoes in the distance. Haunting and memorable, well worth a visit to this area at the northern border of Tsavo West. 

The Shetani Caves

Very close to the Lava flow are the Shetani caves. Drive up the rarely used track and stop at the stone wall (which used to have a sign but no longer does). Turn around if you reach a fork, the left-hand side is the alighting point for hiking the Chaimu Crater. (best done in the early morning or late at night as it punishingly hot) the right-hand side takes you to the top of the Chyulu Hills.  

Leave the car at the stone wall and walk up the short hill to the caves. I have to admit I'm not sure I would have gone in had there not already been a guide showing other people around. The combination of long grass where Tsavo lions could be hiding and a dark, dark cave which may house a hyena or leopard had me quaking in my boots. But in I went. The caves is a 50 metre or tunnel with a fairly difficult descent. Throughout the tunnel, you will find the bones of animals who have been trapped in here, a baby rhino, porcupine, hyena and other unidentifiable bones! Towards the end, a ladder leads you up a steep ascent to the surface. The cave does continue, we didn’t venture further in. My nerves! My nerves!

Mzima Springs

Crystal clear water filtered through volcanic rock from the Chyulu Hills forms this apparently peaceful lake. It’s an idyllic spot with reeds, palm trees and giant eucalyptus bordering the transparent water. It’s only the soldiers with machine guards and the frequent ‘go no further, CROCODILES.’ and ‘ Beware HIPPO’s’ signs that alert you to the animals that call the oasis home. Vervet monkeys and baboons dance in the trees, crocodiles hide in the long grass and hippos fight in the water. Keep your kids close and your wits about you. Walk the circular route of the boardwalk until you reach a thatched hut where you can descend under the water to watch the fish/crocs/hippos through thick glass windows. It’s wonderful, in its uniquely Kenyan combination of danger and beauty.

Kilaguni Serena Lodge

Kilaguni Serena Lodge is a great spot to stop for lunch. For 2500 KSH or 1200 for kids you can join their lunchtime buffet and stuff your hungry, dust speckled faces until you burst. Afterwards, take your wine to the deck and sip it in the shade whilst watching animals at the watering hole. Then head off to the pool and let the kids splash off some energy whilst you relax on the sun loungers. I’ve not stayed here yet but am very tempted.. and will report back if I do. 

Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary

Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary is a fenced area of 90 sq km, heavily guarded with the purpose of protecting the endangered black rhino. Tsavo's rhinos numbered approx. 7000, 50 years ago but by 1989 there were only 20 remaining. Their decline is almost entirely due to poaching. The sanctuary started with three rhinos and now boasts 80. A visit here is your best chance of seeing a rhino in Tsavo.

Where to stay in Tsavo West

There are several resorts in Tsavo West.   I recommend Kilaguni Serena Safari lodge for a great value resort, Finch Hattons when you have more money to spend.

We were on a budget and stayed at Nyika Bird Sanctuary just outside Mtito Andei and just 20 minutes from the park gate. Basic but beautiful is the best way to describe it. Cold water only, electricity from car batteries and concrete beds but the most beautiful surroundings absolutely filled with birds.  We had elephant come to visit, saw hyena tracks in the river at the bottom of the garden and fell asleep to the hoot of owls and the roar of leopards. The house costs 80 USD per night.

How to get to Tsavo West

There are no local airports in or near Tsavo but there are landing strips.

Take the SGR train and get off at Mtito Andei (for Tsavo West) or Voi for Tsavo East

Drive – a 4 hour drive out of Nairobi to Mtito Andei and similar time from Mombasa for Voi

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