Champagne Ridge – an hour out of Nairobi there is a secret place with a fabulous name. A place of sweeping views, pastoral fields and leopards. A place where storm clouds come to flirt with each other and the wind whistles up the rift and taunts the bent backed trees. Champagne Ridge, magical by name, magical by nature.

Champagne Ridge – an hour out of Nairobi

I’ve loved Champagne Ridge since the first time I snuck on to a vacant plot of land and stared 80k over the Rift Valley. From Champagne Ridge you can see all the way to Lake Magadi, taking in the volcanoes of Longonot and Suswa. Champagne Ridge is a diamond hidden in plain sight. A vast finger of land that skirts the edges of the Great Rift valley. So close to Nairobi, joined at the hip to the famed Ngong Hills, and yet for the most part ignored. Champagne Ridge appears to be mostly virgin land, left to nature and the odd giraffe but it is home to pastoralists and wealthy KC's who have made weekend escapes on the ridge. Their stone houses built teetering on granite outcrops provide the perfect weekend break and escape from Nairobi.

Champagne Ridge a peaceful escape from Nairobi

In truth, there is nothing on Champagne Ridge to visit unless you are staying at a property there. There are no restaurants or public viewpoints, no cafes of cleared glades for picnics. When we visit we sneak through an unoccupied patch of land and hike through scrub until we can dangle our feet over the edge of the Rift. We take picnics and eat them on the stony cliff edge and we wonder at all this space, in this incredible place, that is empty and unused and unknown. Champagne Ridge has an ancient feel. A soul-bearing wildness that appeals. It's not just the views, the incredible views, it’s the silence, the bare bones of the earth and the heat of the day. The stillness of the lizards, the furtive movements of the dassie, the striped zebra bottom clattering down through the bush. I came here to heal a sore heart, to feed my soul, and Champagne Ridge always delivers.

Enkaji Osiwo – The house in the winds

We chose to abandon our habitual land trespassing excursions and book a night on Champagne Ridge. We had long heard about Enkaji and a quick check with Langata Link Properties and we found out it was free. Enkaji is a simple two-bedroom stone house with unbeatable views, the perfect place to rest and recuperate. Come 3pm Friday I was bumping my way along the old stone track that leads far away from the city lights. Soon the Ngong Hills faded from sight in my rearview mirror and cars were replaced by cows. I turned into the driveway for Enkaji and it was everything I hoped for.

Enkaji is all about the view. There’s a balcony with a view, a bedroom with a view, a seating area with a view and even a loo with a view. And what a view! The volcanoes, the sheer drop off the Rift, the little fingers of land with their lonely houses, the shimmering lakes and rivers as the sun set, the twinkling lights of the Maasai village as dusk falls. At night we had front row seats for the grandest of storms, rival clouds battling each other as lightning blasted the valley and lit up the sky. We remained dry on the porch with our red wine and our huge smiles.

Enkaji Osiwo affordable accommodation on Champagne Ridge, Nairobi

Enkaji is basic and clean and perfect in its simplicity. The house has two large bedrooms, one with a double bed and one with two singles. It has a huge lounge, with an enormous fireplace and lots of comfy sofas. A kitchen with all the glasses and utensil you could hope for, and a gas stove. There is no fridge so do bring a cool box. A balcony runs the length of the house. There is a large table to eat at, a day bed for reading and plenty of seating for wine drinking and chats. There are two bathrooms but no running water, so you use the loo with the view in the day (a hut with a long drop). There is an excellent bucket shower.

It is homely and warm and clean. Yes I know I've said clean again, but it is such a big deal! I have a phobia of beds that feel like other people have slept in them. Enkaji has clean white sheets and nice smelly soaps which makes me very happy.

Days on Champagne Ridge are for hiking and relaxing. Enkaji is perfectly geared up for both, with trails all around the house. The caretakers are willing to guide you if you prefer. Spend time spotting the proliferation of animals that come to visit; birds and hyrax, lizards and snakes and perhaps the odd leopard. You come here to breathe the air and forget the city life and that is exactly what Enkaji offers. The huge balcony is made for star gazing by night and reading books by day. Readers of this blog will know my love of nature and of silence but for the footsteps of animals… Enkaji is a place for meditation, for calm and for peace.

How to get to Champagne Ridge

To get to Champagne Ridge drive through Ongata Rongai, past Kiserian and turn left on to the dirt road at Kona Baridi (also the jumping-off point for hiking the Ngong hills). It is then approximately a 45-minute drive along Champagne Ridge.

Cost for Enkaji

10,000 per night for the house which comfortably sleeps 4. We squashed in with our 3 littlies

What to take to Enkaji

Drinking water, a cool box for food, firewood and firelighters, hiking books, binoculars, camera and a good book.

How to book Enkaji:

Book through Langata Link Properties.

Book similar properties through Airbnb – get your booking code here or through the Booking.com widget below

The post Champagne Ridge, Nairobi – day trip or weekend break appeared first on The Expat Mummy.