You wake up on a deserted beach. You look to the right and see nothing but palms teetering on the edge of coral cliffs. To the left is a series of caves. Peer up through sea holes in the roof and you can see the claw-like roots of mangrove trees and the underside of the dense foliage that is typical of the coastline; pod mahogany’s, jackfruit, coconut palms and baobab. Seaside caper climbs over the cliff edges white flowers dancing in the gentle breeze. Ahead is the blue ocean turquoise at first but beyond the white waves that mark the line of reef, the sea turns dark blue. The reef, a coral drop off frequented by shark, ray and passing whales. And by turtles and eels and a million multi-coloured fish and corals. Closer to shore small sandbars create pools. Places to lie in the scorching sun, places to snorkel and look for shells and urchins. Sandbars; a walkway for crabs a parkour playground for kids. The beach is golden in colour and made of a million tiny shells, a beachcombers dream. For those in the know, there are places where the waves have crushed the Sand into a fine powder. Playschool putty, ankles sink into the softest whitest sand imaginable. On this beach there is nobody for company but the ghost crabs that race in and out of sandy homes. Chasing the sea in and out. In and out. The tides roll in and out. The seasons too but Sand Island remains the same. Timeless.
Tiwi beaches on the Kenyan Coast
Sand Island Beach – the Cottages
Sand Island Beach is a collection of small fisherman style cottages. They sit for the most part jumbled on top of each other. Each cottage is charmingly individual. Pweza is the only two-storey building. Badu sits in front of the other houses and has a deck that promises privacy and tranquillity. Tewa is plopped in the middle of the row, its sprawling deck offering space and prime beach viewing. Toward the left Papa and Kasa sit slightly apart, fronted by pea green grass and frangipani trees. These are larger and quieter houses.
Hot water, Wi-Fi and fresh fish daily
Every cottage has a magnificent view of the magnificent beach. They are clean and basic in a good way. They come with huge comfy beds with thick cotton sheets and adorable kanga bedspreads. There is hot water in the bathrooms and free Wi-Fi throughout. Fishermen come to Sand Island daily. Amos and Abdullah adhere to fixed rates; great for someone that hates bargaining 500 bob fish, 600 calamari, and 1200 prawn. Choose from what they have or order something special. At lunch, Mwanaidi visits with her basket of freshly baked samosa, mandazi and chapatti. In the evening Binty takes our fresh fish and cooks up huge prawn curries, breaded calamari and grilled snapper. Sand Island is family-owned and the family extends to the locals that complete this little piece of paradise. Provided you make a quick run to Diani for basic essentials, oil, bread, fruit, eggs, wine then the Sand Island community makes sure you have everything you need. Freshly delivered. Daily. (Note there are additional items available in the office, oil, coconut milk, etc.)
Sand Island starfish gardens
But as gorgeous as Anthea, Hattie and the Sand Island team are I don't want to talk about cooks and housekeeping. I want to talk about the beach. At low tide, Amos will take you out to the Starfish. Only found at this point along the Kenyan coast they are fiercely protected by the locals. Not so long ago the starfish were decimated by entrepreneurs who dried them out and sold them to tourists as souvenirs; the locals have made a stand. Now the sand island is an unofficial marine park and the starfish number 2000. This spectacular site can only be reached via Sand Island or a huge walk along the reef from Tiwi main beach. The saucer-sized starfish range in colour from scarlet to blue with orange spots. The best thing I did this trip was sit in the knee-deep, bathwater warm, water several hundred meters out to sea and look at a kaleidoscope of stars on the ocean floor.
What you need to know about Tiwi, Kenya
Sand Island is situated on Maweni beach, slightly further north of Tiwi Beach. Tiwi is the beach you have been searching for since you read The Island back in the 1990’s. An undiscovered tropical paradise where more often than not you will find yourself alone on the beach. However, because of its remote location there are no shops, restaurants or bars here so if you want to spend your days on Kenya’s greatest beach then make a trip to the supermarket in Diani. I find that Chandarana is the best. Alternatively head to the Naivas in Mombasa if you are coming via ferry and stock up first.
What to do in Tiwi and Diani
Diani is approximately 10Km away and should cost you no more than 1500. You will find a range of restaurants; I recommend Nomads and Kenaways. You will also find a few activities; kitesurfing, kayaking and parachuting. There are several dive centres, which will take you on snorkelling trips.
How to get to Sand Island Beach
Reach Sand Island by taking a local flight into Ukunda where it’s a short drive to Diani or Tiwi. International flights land into Mombasa where it’s approx. 1.5 hour taxi journey (Sand Island can arrange a pick up – cab should cost no more that 4500 bob) You can arrange car rental from Mombasa airport.
The high speed SGR train arrives into the Mombasa, tickets start from 1000 bob (10 USD) from Nairobi to Mombasa are is definitely the most affordable way to reach Sand Island. Alternatively you can drive. If 9 hours on the Mombasa Road doesn’t thrill you then consider breaking it up with an overnight stop at Nyaka Bird Sanctuary.
How much does Sand Island Beach Cost?
To book contact Anthea and Hattie on: [email protected]
For more beaches along the Kenyan Coast. Check out my blog here.
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