Kilimanjaro rises above the plains, bare of snow. Clouds circle her in homage, not just to Mother Mountain but to the glory of nature that gathers at her feet. The saying goes ‘Kilimanjaro is in Tanzania but the best views are from Kenya' and Kimana Sanctuary testifies to this. Kimana is a lesser-known game reserve and thoroughfare for animals passing between Amboseli and Chyulu Hills/ Tsavo National Parks. The 5700-acre sanctuary is part of an ancient elephant corridor. A place of serene beauty inhabited by most of Kenya’s indigenous animals.
Kimana is a place of differing environments. At the river the green trunks of fever trees line the water, the woods are abundant with zebra, gazelle, baboons, warthogs and myriad birdlife. Red dusted plains are scattered with pumice stone thrown from Kilimanjaro. Savannahs of towering grass shelter cheetah and umbrella acacia's hid giraffe. In the forest, lions make their home, and everywhere, simply everywhere there are elephants.
Abundant wildlife at Kimana Sanctuary
Kimana doesn’t have a huge amount of cats, although we were lucky enough to spot cheetah and narrowly missed lion, it makes up for it with some of the most abundant wildlife I’ve ever seen. I’ve been to bigger, more popular, more well known and certainly more expensive parks and never seem wildlife is such huge numbers as we did at Kimana. When arriving at our campsite there must have been 200 zebra, antelope, giraffe, wildebeest, and warthog grazing. The woods around our camp simply teemed with animals, a striped bottom, stately horns or elongated neck in view at all times. We saw elephants pass our camp every day and heard hyena circling every night.
We saw cheetah, bat eared fox, black back jackal, hyena and a couple of Verreaux Eagles raising an owl chick in the trees opposite our camp. Bushbabies danced the night away in the trees above our head and a small cat raided our rubbish at night. The baboons were ever present, sunbathing on the banks of the river that promised crocodiles. Yes, Kimana was all about the animals.
Kimana community eco-project and conservation
Kimana is a community Eco project created in 1996. Big Life and the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust rent the land from local Maasai, who in return receive a much-needed revenue stream from tourism. The Big Life team recognise that preservation of Kimana, as a corridor is crucial. Over the years human settlements have spread allowing the animals only a very narrow strip to pass through. As a result, human-animal conflict is a real and present danger. Local communities will harm or kill animals that ravage their crops or steal livestock. Big Life and the Maasai landowners provide 22 rangers whose job it is to manage the prolific wildlife within the sanctuary and ensure that they are kept away from local villages.
During our visit to Kimana, we were fortunate enough to see Tim, one of the largest tusker elephants in the world. Instantly recognisable by his gargantuan tusks which reach to the floor. Tim is also notable for straying on to farming land and has suffered two grievous spear wounds as a result. The old injury on his back is still visible. Two rangers were with Tim most of the time we were at Kimana, ensuring his slow but steady process remained within the park.
Kimana was a joy. Our entire group declared it one of the best campsites we have visited in Kenya and committed to returning back. We were 16 people; 8 adults and 8 kids and the campsite was huge. In between game drives the kids played in the river (watch for crocs) whilst the adults read, slept or lazed in a hammock. It was sublimely relaxing and despite the odd elephant or yap from a hyena, it felt incredibly safe. We were practically the only people in the park and only saw one other car the entire time. It felt like our own personal game reserve. The camping facilities were above expectation, clean private and well thought out. The game was plentiful, the park devastatingly beautiful. I only wish I had taken pictures that do it justice.
Kimana campsite
Kimana has 3 campsites which aren't fenced. You can request an Askari/Soldier to guard the camp at night. This is wild camping but due to the lack of visible cats, I felt far safer than I have bush camping before. We stayed in Elerai camp and I’d choose this one again. It occupies a place next to the river under shady trees and has a huge grassed area for the kids to run about. All camps have long drop toilets, firewood and a bush shower (essentially a bucket that you fill with water and hoist into the air)
The neighbouring river camp Olchani looked also good. On the far side of the park was Oltepesi located in the midst of dusty savannah plains, it had trees for shelter but felt very exposed to the wildlife. This one would be my last choice.
Kimana House
I had an invite to tour Kimana house but was distracted by elephants and wine. I drove past and it looks gorgeous, shaded by fever trees with a shallow pool in the river for hot days and large lazy veranda for supper and sundowners. The house sleeps 8 people in three double rooms all with ensuite bathroom. It comes with a housekeeper, drinking water, bbq, freezer and solar power
Game Drives at Kimana Sanctuary
Kimana is a corridor, long and thin and small so you can easily cover most of the park in a 2/3 hour game drive. Despite its size, we abandoned plans to visit neighbouring Amboseli, as there was so much variety in the terrain and so much animal life to be seen. A late afternoon / early evening game drive is a must, the sunsets were simply epic. Kilimanjaro showing off in orange and pink tinted skies.
The park roads were excellent at the time of visiting but during heavy rains become waterlogged with some roads inaccessible. I would recommend a 4×4 because you need to drive across a small section of the river at the entrance.
How to get to Kimana Sanctuary
Nairobi to Kimana Sanctuary is an easy 200km – zip down the Mombasa road, turn off at Emali and enjoy the traffic-free final hour. The road takes you past Amboseli entrance, approx. 30km before Kimana, so an easy day trip away. There are many chances to see wildlife along most of the road with frequent elephant crossings. Kimana Sanctuary is past the small town of Intepsei (a good place to stock up on essential food items)
Emali train station is serviced by the SGR train from Nairobi and Mombasa is only an hours drive away.
How much does Kimana Sanctuary cost?
Camping fee (per day – this includes the entrance fee)
Citizen/Res Ksh2000,
Non-residents $35. Please note that these fees include your entry fee.
Children under 10 years go free and ages 10-18 pay 50%.
Daily entrance
For Kenyan residents/citizens, the entrance fee is 1000 Ksh | USD $10
Non-residents it is 2500 Ksh | USD $25.
Children under 10 years go free and ages 10-18 pay 50%.
Kimana House
18,000 Ksh | USD $180 per night for 4 guests or less
24,000 Ksh | USD $240 per night for more than 4 guests
You can pay by cash or Mpesa at the gate.
All income is divided between the community and the on-going conservation of the area.
You can book the campsites exclusively for an extra 5000 per day. At the time of visit (May), there was only one other group in the entire place so no need for exclusivity
To learn more about the valuable work that Big Life do click here
Coming to Kenya from abroad?
International flights land into Nairobi and Mombasa. It is possible to catch a local flight as Kimana has its own airstrip. Car hire is available from both Nairobi and Mombasa
Hotel rental is easily available in the capital Nairobi. Use Tripadvisor or Agoda to score a good deal. Flipkey offers cheaper homestays and bed & breakfasts. Check my TRAVEL PLANNING page for more local and international companies that operate within Kenya
Worried about what to bring camping? Read my complete list of camping essentials
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