Turtle Bay Kenya in Watamu

The early morning breeze blows fresh and cool from the Indian Ocean. It ruffles the kitenge cloth on my breakfast table and grazes my salted skin. I lift my face and savor its gentle embrace. I know that as the sun climbs the air will grow warmer and all but the most foolhardy will retreat into the shade. My waiter brings me Spanish omelette, crispy bacon, fresh watermelon juice, and another bright smile. I gaze over the sparkling pool, its silver waters reflecting the tall swaying palms and say goodbye to Turtle Bay. But not for long, we will be back.

This was my first trip both to Watamu and to Turtle Bay Kenya. I’d seen the pictures of Watamu; bone white sands vivid against the indigo sea, and my expectations were high. Watamu and Turtle Bay didn’t fail to deliver, on both counts they were more than I’d expected. More than I’d hoped for.

Sublime location at Watamu Marine Park

With all Kenyan Coast hotels, the ocean and the Beach are the heroes. Turtle Bay occupies prime beach, it’s sandy strip scattered with thatched bandas and sunbeds. Waiter service extends to the beach and there’s an all inclusive drink and food menu to choose from. With such luxuries it would be easy to spend the entire holiday cocktails in hand gazing out at the ocean, spotting dolphins and whales.

On the left side of the beach the bay curves round to join Turtle Island; a rocky outcrop made of coral. Here the powder soft sand stretches down to water that at low tide reveals rock pools full of crab, lobster, fish, and octopus. Walk to the right and the beach and emerald green sea continue to the horizon.

Watamu Marine Park

This is Watamu Marine Park, and its famous coral reef is only 300 metres out from shore. A swim in these waters puts you in an esteemed company; 5 different species of turtle call these waters their home. They share the waters with 600 different types of fish including black tipped reef shark, giant trevally, parrot fish and dolphins. Our host, Sabine Pruess, tells us that this is a breeding ground for whales. During mating season wildlife photographers and journalists flock in droves to film their antics. Don diving gear and join them along with manta rays and the stately and serene whale sharks.

Turtle Bay Dive Centre and Watersports

Turtle Bay has its own dedicated diving and snorkeling centre. Divers can walk offshore to the reef or take a dive boat out for deeper adventures. Beginners can learn to dive in the hotel pool. PADI certifications can be earned for everyone over 12. And for those younger than 12, a Bubble Certificate can take pride of place on your bedroom wall. A sweet course for little guys who learn to dive through hoops and pick up objects from the pool.

As part of the water sports included package, or just 1000 KES for those who opted out, the whole family can use the water sports facilities. These include kayaks and canoes, stand up paddle boards and pedaloes. For the more adventurous there is windsurfing and kiteboarding too.

Turtle Bay All inclusive hotel

The hotel is a sum of many parts, each different from the rest. Upon entering the lobby I am struck by its nautical feel; blue walls and dhow sail ceiling. The lobby is a place to linger, read a book and enjoy the free tea and coffee. It’s also home to the excursion bureau, a business centre and a shop that stocks items you genuinely want to buy. Both my husband and I left with new outfits.

Weaver bar and Pizza restaurant

An excellent pizza restaurant is themed like a Lamu beach house. It’s neighbour the Weaver bar is named for the hundreds of weaver birds that call it home. Both the restaurant and bar look out over a Koi-filled pond. Its translucent water reflects the weaver nests which hang from the lush green palms. The bright yellow birds add to the kaleidoscope of colours. It is a buzzing jungle of tropical flowers and flashes of the iridescent scales of the Agama lizards. A crane standing motionless keeps watch over it all, no doubt hoping for a Koi supper.

Turtle Bay Main Restaurant and pool

The main restaurant and pool sit with a backdrop of the Indian ocean and Watamu’s famous coral islands. This is where the action happens. Banquet style meals are served throughout the day, and the bar comes alive at night. Entertainers pound the poolside floor; Maasai dancers in the day and belly dancers by night. Tourists full of fizz and cocktails whizz kids across the dance floor in the late evening.

Adult only pool

For those who are seeking peace and quiet and adult only pool is through another seafront bar tucked away in a quiet part of the hotel. A tranquil oasis with only the wind and the waves to distract you from daytime reading or snoozing.

Beachfront hotel room

We were lucky enough to have a beach front room. Decorated with pale walls and simple whitewashed Lamu style furniture, the only pop of colour came from the kikoy cushions and glittering ocean. Our double room had a huge bed and another single, air conditioning, a mini bar, and a very hot, very strong shower. Some aspects were a little dated. It’s not high-end luxury but its clean, neat, calm and with the view of the ocean also beautiful.

Family accommodation

The family option offers interconnecting rooms. You can have two or three rooms in a row which great for a big family like ours, or if you come with extended family. The beachfront rooms are definitely the ones to go for. They are closer to the pool and the restaurants and have a balcony that opens directly onto the beach.

All inclusive food and drink

A large part of an all-inclusive package is the food. I’ve stayed at hotels before where faced with a monotony of rice and reinventions of the previous night’s meal I’ve had to escape to a local restaurant. Turtle Bay clearly understands the importance of a varied and well-cooked menu. The chefs delivered up a delicious range of local and international food. At one eveningmeal, I had crab and prawn chowder to start (two helpings, it was amazing.) Followed by fillet steak cooked to order, tender pork and lamb shish kebabs and freshly stir-fried Thai vegetables. The salad cart was fresh, the guacamole a favourite and don’t even mention Chapattis. I’m sure they are solely responsible for my 3kg weight gain.

There was always food available from tea and biscuits to pancakes and waffles at 4pm. I’m told at times they bring out a chocolate fountain. Drinks were local spirits and wines; the wine was a decent South Africa blend. Branded drinks are available outside the package.

Family friendly hotel

Turtle Beach is a place to bring children; it is one of the most family orientated places I’ve visited in Kenya. Turtle Bay has a kids club complete with puzzles and games, a TV for late night movies and a playground. But where it comes into its own is with its activities. A typical action-packed day sees the kids out to the beach, in the pool for games, learning card tricks and learning Maasai dancing. In truth, I never saw the kids at the kids club because they were always out and about having fun. Even better the club doesn’t shut until 9 so for the older ones you can settle them with popcorn and a movie whilst you go an enjoy a few sundowners.

Entertainment and excursions

The hotel provides entertainment for adults too. My husband had a couple of darts games with a couple that have been coming here for 30 years. For the more energetic there was beach volleyball, aqua aerobics, water polo, and table tennis. There are also excursions to local sites such as the Gede Ruins, Malindi or a whale watching boat trip. I did none of those things. It was enough for me to stroll along the beach, lie on my sunbed and watch the sun go down.

Eco and Tourist awards.

Turtle Bay holds a number of accolades and achievements. It was the first all-inclusive hotel in Kenya, it proudly holds a Gold Eco Warrior Award, Gold Eco Tourism Kenya Award, World Responsible Tourism Award, and a Gold Travel life Award. But it’s collection of trophies in the reception are just the tip of the iceberg,. This is a hotel that cares. The hotel focuses heavily on local initiatives which are geared towards giving back to the wildlife and communities. Nowhere do they champion Eco Tourism as much as when it comes to sea and beach that is so precious to its human and non-human inhabitants. Turtle Bay actively work to educate schools and local communities on the importance of conservation. They are happy to turn the spotlight on their own hotel. They organize beach cleanups, source eco-friendly light bulbs and have installed water conservation systems. During certain times of the year, the beach becomes covered in seaweed. As this is a National Park, Turtle Bay commit to leaving the seaweed on the beach. It can be unsightly when its there but disappears once you are in the water.

Turtle Bay work hand in hand with organisations such as Watamu Turtle Watch, Arabuko Sokoke Forest, Mida Creek Mangrove Conservation and the Kenyan Wildlife Service.

In the end, a wall of trophies and certificates can feel meaningless, it’s only when you see the impact with your own eyes that it hits home. We walked the Watamu coast for hours and the amount of plastic and rubbish on the beach was shocking. The only place it was clear was the beach surrounding Turtle Bay, it echoed so strongly the need for other hotels to get involved. For their environmental efforts alone I would put Turtle Bay at the top of my list, for hotels to return to.

Costs and deals

Turtle Bay room & meal rates starts from US $150 to US $250 per person/night sharing.

The cost is inclusive of room, all meals, snacks, selected drinks, Kenya hotel taxes (VAT) and service charges.

Please check with the hotel directly as they often have deals and special offers on.

Getting there

Watamu is a 30-minute drive from Malindi airport or a 90 drive from Mombasa.

From Nairobi, it’s easiest to fly to Malindi and hire a cab to drive you to the hotel.

Flights with Jambojet start from 4500 KES and a taxi should cost you no more than 2500

Alternatively, take the SGR to Mombasa terminal.

International flights fly into Mombasa airport.

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