There’s something incredibly glamorous about being picked up from the airport by boat.  Especially at sunset and especially in Lamu where it’s balmy warm and you are on the Indian Ocean and the view of old the Arabic town on the island opposite the airport jetty, almost takes your breath away.

 Never mind that our plane landed an hour and a half late and thanks to that we had missed the better part of the day. The fact that a young chap wearing mirror RayBans with a wide smile, white t-shirt and artfully draped kikoy waved in welcome, grabbed our bags then guided us to his boat, made all the frustration that I’d felt relating to our low cost (but actually quite expensive) airline’s last minute schedule changes,  melt away.

“I’ve lived in many places. Switzerland, The States, my brother lives in Hounslow, but for me, Lamu is the best. This is home.” Says the suave Hassan and I can’t argue with him. Especially as I picture Hounslow pavements in the rain in late October, in all of it’s grey and chilly glory.

In spite of the bad press on security in Lamu and the fact that these days international tourists stay away, Lamu  seems magical to me. It’s obvious why the rich and famous flocked here in the past and it’s sad that Lamu has lost out but finally I’m in on the secret and I’m delighted.

Our boat ride took us past Lamu Town and then the Governor’s house set in a large patch of government land with a pleasant walkway with solar street lighting paid for by the World Bank (as a very fetching poster depicting a World Bank head looking ‘Big Brother’ like) and on to Shela. Hassan explained that there are only x3 motor vehicles in Lamu, the governor’s car, an ambulance and a donkey ambulance – since, thanks to the ancient, narrow streets, donkeys are the only feasible mode of transportation for most. That and boats. Dhows mostly.

Once we arrived at Shela having had the full spiel about sundowner cruises, doughnutting for kids, Lamu town tours and various other excursions to consider,  we ducked behind the famous Peponi Hotel, winding through narrow streets, climbing steeply and out of puff as we went, to arrive at the house on the hill.  #notdisappointed.  I can’t wax lyrical enough about the house. It was raised high enough over Shela village to catch the breeze from all directions, beautifully laid out on 3 floors with countless terraces to eat and hang out – such stylish decor and an army of house staff who facilitated us gorging on sumptuous meals of fresh fish for 3 days, as we flopped slothfully back and forth to the pool.

The beach was a short walk from the house.  Couldn’t help noticing the mix of cultures there but the joy was that all was laid back in Lamu -so nobody seemed to mind.

Next post: Exploring Lamu Town

Oh and I forgot to tell you about the muezzin call to prayer.

Related posts/Click links below:

• Nobody told me this…about visiting Kenya’s coast. Need to know before you go.
• Bringing beach colours home…Kenya coastal style
• No more lying on sunbeds. Action packed holidays at Kenya’s coast

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