I wasn’t planning on covering this Collection- in fact, I’ve been so focused on menswear I didn’t even know that Resort even happened, but I was browsing Kenzo’s Spring ’20 menswear since it was the duo’s last collection, and saw that it was inspired by Ama, which in Japanese means female divers, which also happens to be what Virgil Abloh was inspired by for his ’20 resort collection except that his was from a Korean version of the female divers called Haenyeo. Apparently, he came across these photographs taken by Hyung S. Kim which you can see HERE. I’m typically not into Abloh’s womenswear stuff, I really only like his sweatshirt and t-shirts that have his signature graphic on them, but I’m writing today because I feel the need to educate the writer who covered this collection named Amy Verner at Vogue. She started out fine describing where the inspiration came from, and how the inspired elements were transformed and materialized into these fresh pieces, until this part came along:

As fine as it was to see further adaptations of this theme—an aquatic-hued sequin slip dress, watery effect denim, fishnet layers, neoprene sneakers, and Teva-type sandals—it was more interesting to consider how he had rooted out a remote subculture composed of weathered yet active women, and repackaged their recreational pursuit as slick, sexy suiting and graphic sportswear.

Wait, a recreational pursuit? Excuse me, but these women risk their lives every single day going deep into the water without proper diving gear trying to make a living by catching shellfish. From my brief research (aka Google- I’m wondering if she took the time to read about them when it literally only takes two minutes), most of the women who were photographed were over 60, with one close to 90 years old. Do they really look like they do this for fun? I’m also slightly offended by the title of the collection, “Sink or Swim”- if these women, sink, they die. Is this some kind of joke? I need an explanation.

It was during the years I worked in fashion that I learned about cultural appropriation, and I just wasn’t sure where to draw the line most likely because I never really understood why it was a problem. There was Marc Jacobs’ dreadlocks, numerous misuse of Native American feathered bonnet, fashion’s favorite, black faces… Is it art when it has a potential to offend or hurt people even if it’s a very small minority? I’m examining my heart to see why I feel bothered by this. Having born in Korea and visited Jeju as a kid where I got to go into the ocean and eat fresh shell fish that my dad purchased from one of these Haenyeo ladies, and also having seen with my own eyes how the older generation continue to struggle to make a living in Korea at this very moment, I can’t help but feel bitter that people don’t even bother to do a quick research before they write about what they call a “remote subculture” when it’s so easily accessible.

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