Welcome to our guide to classic men’s shoes. Shoes have come a long way from their purely functional beginnings. They certainly still perform the critical function of protecting our feet but whether or not that is secondary to looking great is up to debate. What is not debatable, however, is that there is nothing stylish about wrapping animal skin over our feet, as our ancestors once did in the Ice Age. Nor is there anything stylish about the early sandals that our later ancestors wore that were designed only to protect feet from the hot sand. Any conversation about what a stylish Shoe is must begin with a knowledge of the various types of shoes, the material that they are made of, and a brief history. All of which you will find in this men’s shoe guide. History of classic men’s shoes It’s difficult to say when shoes changed from function to fashion but we do know in ancient Rome footwear was seen as a sign of being civilized. However, even before that, there is evidence that shoes were an indicator of the haves and the have-nots. Many of the characteristics of fashionable shoes were initially designed because they were useful and they stuck around for that very reason. Heeled shoes, for example, were handy for horsemen who used the heel to hook into a stirrup while riding. But they were also popular with Louis XIV, who was a man of minimal stature, because he enjoyed the additional few inches of height. As is the case with many things relating to style, if it caught on with royalty, it had staying power. Regardless of their popularity, shoes were still made by hand in a very long and painstaking process. It was not until the middle of the 19th century when the sewing machine was invented that a shoe industry, with some degree of automation, emerged. However, many gentlemen preferred footwear made by hand. Something which is still true today. The oxford and the derby are two of the oldest styles of gentlemen’s shoes. They were popular for almost a century spanning the later part of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th. The monk style followed closely and brought with it the buckle, a characteristic not seen since the boot, which also found popularity in the early part of the 19th century. Other styles of men’s shoes which followed the monk were the loafer and the moccasin. We will discuss the various types of classic men’s shoes in a later section. Materials A gentleman’s dress shoe is usually made of leather because it is both durable and flexible. Exceptions include synthetic leather or leather alternatives. Though, animal hide has been used to make shoes since the beginning of time. Here are the most popular materials for men’s shoes. Box Calf – This leather comes from the skin of calves under 12 months of age. The leather is black and the best box calf leather is said to come from the Alps. Brown leather from a calf under 12 months of age is known as Willow Calf. Buckskin – Buckskin comes from an elk buck or deer buck. Buckskin is a popular material for men’s shoes because it is particularly soft and pliable while still durable like other types of leather. Chrome Leather – Essentially any leather that is tanned using the salts of the metal chromium. It is an alternative to vegetable tanning which uses primarily natural solutions and can take up to two months. Chrome leather can be accomplished in a day though it is more toxic. As much as 90% of leather is tanned using chrome. Shoes that are made with the traditional method of tanning are those associated with craft and quality – and are understandably more expensive. Cordovan – The name of this leather comes from Cordoba, Spain which was famous for its leather in the Middle Ages. Cordovan leather comes from the inner hide of a horse’s rump and is tanned with vegetable substances as is most high quality leather. Patent Leather – Any type of leather – cow, calf, kid (baby goat), or horse – that is given a shiny finish through a plastic coating. Originally, the shiny finished was achieved by linseed oil–based lacquer coating. Suede – Suede is made from the underside of animal hide though primarily lambskin. The animal hide is buffed to create the soft, thin, and pliable material. Interestingly, the name is French for Sweden. French Calf – French calf leather is a fine, high quality made from the hide of young cattle. It’s finer and smoother doesn’t have some of the characteristics of leather from older animals as a result of enduring the elements. Exotic Leathers – There are several animal skins that are used to make high quality and sometimes rare men’s shoes. Examples are snakes, lizards, ostriches, crocodiles, sharks, carps, rhino and elephants. While not always as comfortable as traditional leathers, that are unique. Style Great quality comes with great cost. Cost and quality are both directly related to the workmanship and reflects the skill, precision, and patience of the shoemaker. Remember, a true gentleman only wears handmade shoes. Though, it requires someone with a keen eye to determine the difference. Custom-made shoes are ideal for the most stylish of gentlemen. If you can attain such a luxury as custom-made shoes, treasure them and treat them with care. The reward might be shoes and style that last a lifetime or longer. However, you shoes don’t have to be custom made to pass the test of real style.They only have to be handmade. In fact, there are plenty of luxury or near-luxury brands that sell handmade shoes with similar quality and comfort as custom made shoes. Just don’t settle for less than what you can afford. Lest you treat them as dispensable. The gentleman doesn’t settle for anything that might be considered indispensable. Formal Shoes The gentleman will have many shoes. Shoes for sports, casual shoes, […]

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