If you’re currently looking down at your pair of Boxing Day specials, thinking 'it’s probably time to ‘lift my shoe game,’' then you're probably right.

A well-crafted pair of leather shoes can last a gentleman half a lifetime. Yet for most men, his shoes are lucky to survive the next boxing day sale. This is why buying quality shoes is often considered the smartest wardrobe investment a man can make.

But before you rush to the nearest shoe store and demand to see any and all shoe over $300, it is first important to have a bit of knowledge as to what defines quality in the men's leather shoe world.

1. Does quality matter?

Does spending a bit more on a pair of shoe equate to higher quality? Sometimes, but not always. Consumers seldom know enough about a product to make a purely rationale decision. We tend to fill in the gaps with our own ‘rationale’ to justify its value when personal experience or objective insight isn’t available. But often it is marketing that blinds us, and seldom primes us, on the question of quality.

Understanding the construction of the shoe and the leather used will give you an accurate measure of the quality of the shoe on offer. This information allows you to spend a bit more with the assurance it will equate to higher quality.

Construction

There is no better way to determine the durability of a shoe than in its construction. There are many methods and variations to construct a shoe, but for the purposes of acquiring some key knowledge to determine quality, the main two methods you should be aware of are cement and Goodyear welt construction.

i. Cemented shoes

Cementing is the most common manufacturing method to attach (or glue) the sole of a shoe. It allows manufactures to scale production and offer a very cost competitive product. The sacrifice here is durability.  If the sole begins to wear or come away from the upper portion of the shoe, it often means the whole shoe must be replaced.

ii. Goodyear Welt

The goodyear welt construction is a method that has survived 200 years and is still the preferred construction method for many high-end British shoe companies. The welt is simply a piece of leather that is sewn to the inner and upper sole of the shoe.  Cork is often used to fill the space between the inner and outer sole. Once the cork is added the welt is attached by stitching. Because it is stitched the shoe then becomes very easy to resole. Furthermore, the extra layers means the shoe is more water resistant and supportive.  The result is a shoe that can last for decades. The craftsmanship involved means there is a very obvious price difference compared to a cemented shoe.

Image byLoake England

Type of leather

The type of leather used on the upper portion of the shoe determines to a large extent the aesthetic, its durability and cost.

i. The Hide

There are many varieties of animal hide used in shoemaking. The most common variety of leather hide you will find will come from cow. As a general rule, calf leather (calf skin) is the best type of cowhide. It has a fine grain and is often blemish free. It is lightweight, pliable but very durable.  It is rare that you will find good quality calfskin on a cemented shoe.

ii. Full Grain

Full-grain leather is top quality leather and is the best cut and from a higher quality hide. Full grain leather features a tight grain that is blemish free, making it more water resistant than lower grade grains. In time the leather will develop a fine patina and look nicer with age. Furthermore, if well maintained the shoes will likely last a lifetime, which is a testimony to its durability.

iii. Top Grain

Top grain leather (or corrected leather) is leather of lower quality to full grain leather. The natural hide often contains blemishes and imperfections. When the natural hide remains and the blemishes are gently buffered away, it can be considered a lower-quality full grain leather. But when the top layer is sanded away and replaced by an imitation grain, it is known as corrected leather. Unlike full grain, top grain is not as durable and will begin to show its age with time.

TIP

Almost all quality shoemakers will mention the construction and type of leather of individual shoes on their websites or through their resellers. Don’t be fooled by nice photos, glossy marketing or vague statements about being made in a particular European country. If a shoemaker does not mention these quality measures, the chances are you’re dealing with a product of inferior quality.

2. How much does a quality shoe cost?

In Australia a quality pair of leather shoes will cost you between $400 to $700 dollars. English shoemakers such as Barker, Church’s, Crockett and Jones and Loake seem to have a popular following with Australian men and are safe bets for those looking to invest in their first pair of goodyear welted shoes. These shoes can't be found in Myer. It is not much better at David Jones.  Purveyors, specialists in quality footwear, such asDouble-Monkin Sydney and Melbourne, are the go to when purchasing a pair of quality leather footwear - they know their stuff and offer a level of service befitting the quality they offer.

A quality pair of shoes in this price range will also last for decades if well maintained and resoled occasionally. Cemented shoes with inferior leather, on the other hand, are made for scale, not durability; and they will begin to wear within a year of normal wear (2-3 times + a week). In most cases you will have to replaced them not long after – or wait for the next Boxing Day sale. On a cost per wear basis, the better bet is to dig a little deeper and go for the better quality shoe.

3. Quality + Maintenance = Durability

They say shoes make or break an outfit, but to truly gauge a man by his appearance look no further than how well he looks after his shoes. A quality pair of well-maintained shoes will last for decades. It is an essential habit and ritual of the aspiring man. Below is a list of items you will need to properly maintain your shoes:

Cedar shoe trees

Acedar shoe treeis an essential tool for maintaining the longevity of your shoes. The shoe tree completes two very important task.  A shoe tree will absorb moisture in the form of water and sweat from your shoe. Moisture hardens leather and can lead to cracking. It will also decay the leather over time. A shoe tree will also maintain the shape of the shoe and help prevent creasing.

Leather moisturiser

Just like skincare, leather can dry out and needs to be hydrated sufficiently to maintain its quality look and shape. A good quality leather conditioner will rejuvenate the leather through deep conditioning. As a habit, one should apply lotion at least one a week through normal wear (2-3 times), or just prior to your regular polish.

Shoe polish: wax/paste/cream

One should look to apply shoepolishat least once every two weeks through normal wear. Use a quality shoe cream with wax  (or paste) that contains bees wax. Apply the cream polish first, as it penetrates the leather more deeply than wax and is a good colour rejuvenator. The wax polish provides a layer of protection for the surface and will provide the shine that makes a polished pair of shoes look so good. Less is always more in application of any shoe care product. An old T-shirt is an apt applicator.

Horse hair brush

At minimum own two horse hair brushes: one for removing dust and dirty after every wear; one for bringing out the shine after applying the shoe polish.

Further reading

http://www.primermagazine.com/2014/spend/understanding-shoe-construction-goodyear-welt-blake-stich-cementing

http://www.executivestyle.com.au/the-shoe-fits-but-what-about-quality-2p2c7#ixzz4C5zRMRxq

http://oldleathershoe.com/wordpress/?p=551#comment-7004

http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2010/02/shoe-care-why-you-should-be-practicing-it.html