“Do not miss out on the laal maas,” countless people — both hardcore foodies as well as those picky with palette choices — told me just before I made a trip to Rajasthan’s Jaipur earlier this year. Their advice was followed by recommendations of places I must visit to taste the authentic version of this royal mutton curry flavoured with yoghurt and spices.

I assumed the hype to be hearsay. But it was only when I set foot in the pink city, that I knew I was wrong.

Everyone — from the chatty rickshaw driver who took it upon himself to plan the day’s itinerary to the shopkeeper whose jutti (traditional Indian shoes that feature hand embroidery) collection was set to impress — spoke of the laal maas with deep reverence.

It began to seem almost like a sacrilege to be in Rajasthan and not savour the dish. And thus began my quest to find the best places in the city that would deliver to promise. But looking for the best laal maas places in Rajasthan is akin to seeking out the prettiest monument in the city. Each pales over the other in comparison.

Nevertheless, one of the first spots I stopped by was Handi Restaurant in Vaishali Nagar.

My order took a while to arrive, but the taste justified the delay. As the scent of the mutton gravy teased my tastebuds way before the first morsel hit my palate, I was convinced that the people of Rajasthan had birthed a gem in the form of this dish.

It was a true firecracker; its spicy notes and melt-in-mouth texture were a flavour bomb; the mutton soft and rendering.

Tip: If you are looking for something to pair your laal maas with, the best bet would be a rumali roti (a thin and limp Indian flatbread that resembles a handkerchief).

Tip 2: Keep a tissue ready.

When I relayed my experience to Ratika Bhargava who manages CauldronSisterss — a culinary venture, along with her sister Riccha Khetan — she proceeded to let me in on a few secrets of the dish’s history.

The reason for my tear glands acting up, she pointed out, was the Mathania chillies.

A spicy affair

As connoisseurs of the laal maas point out in articles across the web, the hero of the dish is the chilli. Blood red in colour, they are indigenous to the town ‘Mathania’ in Jodhpur, where the hot and humid climate plays the perfect host.

With its pungent taste and smoky and earthy flavour, Mathania has won over Rajasthan and the world. Sometimes added in whole, other times soaked in water and ground into a paste, the chillies have been finding their way into Rajasthani delicacies since time immemorial.

While chronicling their history, Bhargava, who knows Rajasthani cuisine like the back of her hand, also shares an old wive’s tale that surrounds the Mathania chilli. “While these chillies are being grown, ashes from burial grounds are spread in the farmland. This increases production and contributes to their flavour,” she notes cautioning that the relevance of this theory is not known.

But even while it has been established that the chilli is a hero of sorts, the question begs to be asked how it found its way into the laal maas.

From sophisticated to egalitarian

Anyone who has feasted on this mutton marvel will agree it is evocative of royalty. Translating to red meat — a pop of colour that we have the Mathania chillies to thank for — the dish traces back to the 8th century. While there is no linear narrative on which particular incident influenced the dish, all theories converge on one — it started during hunting expeditions.

The story goes that Maharajas would be accompanied by a retinue of people including khansamas (royal cooks) on these trips. The rations carried along were limited — chillies, garlic, water and yoghurt. During the trip, the kings would hunt wild boar, jungle fowl, and venison, which would be sent to the camp kitchen on horseback where it was marinated and kept ready for dinner. But when the dish would be set in front of the king at the dinner table that evening, the odour was putting off.

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So, in an attempt to turn the jungli maas (wild meat) into something more palatable, copious amounts of chillies were added to disguise the smell. Through the years, the dish went through an evolution of its own with different families adding their own insignia to it. Among these, it is said that the recipe from the royal family of Mewar is considered superior.

An article in Deccan Tiffin points out that there are two versions of laal maas; the one cooked in Jodhpur where ghee is used, and the one cooked in Udaipur with mustard oil. It adds that the addition of tomatoes is highly debated as is the dish’s consistency, with some versions being saucier than others.

Here’s a recipe by Chef Ranveer Brar who got the recipe from Jodhpur.

Ingredients

For marination:

1 kg mutton, curry cuts

2 tbsp ginger garlic paste (70 percent garlic + 30 percent ginger)

For gravy:

¼ cup ghee

2-3 cloves

10 black peppercorns

2 small cardamoms

1 black cardamom

250 gm onion, sliced

Marinated mutton

Salt to taste

20 Mathania chilli paste (use soaked chillies)

200 gm curd, beaten

1½ tbsp coriander powder

½ tsp red chilli powder

½ tsp cumin powder

2 tbsp mustard oil

Method

For marination:

Step 1: In a mixing bowl, add mutton and ginger garlic paste, and marinate well. Keep it aside for one hour.

For gravy:

Step 1: In a large sauce pot, heat ghee and add cloves, black peppercorns, small cardamoms, and black cardamom. Let the whole spices splutter.

Step 2: Add onions and saute till it gets light brown. Add the marinated mutton and saute for 4-5 minutes.

Step 3: Add Mathania chilli paste and saute well for another 8-10 minutes to remove rawness of the chilies. Add salt to taste and mix well. Cover and let it cook for 10-12 minutes on low flame.

Step 4: In a bowl add curd, coriander powder, red chilli powder, cumin powder, and mustard oil, and mix well.

Step 5: Transfer the curd mixture into the pot and stir well. Cover with the lid and cook for 30 minutes on low flame till the mutton becomes tender.

Step 6: Garnish with coriander sprig and serve hot with bajra roti.

Best places to eat laal maas in Rajasthan

1. Niros, Jaipur

Since 1 August 1949, a humble restaurant on Jaipur’s Mirza Ismail Road has been serving its guests with the same passion it once did. As the story goes, the restaurant was started by Late Shri Ved Pardal who intended to make his restaurant a go-to space for non-vegetarian food at a time when people were inclined towards vegetarian meals.

Listed in their Moghlai specialities, laal maas has long since thrilled the guests here with adjectives such as “succulent”, “exceptional”, and “appealing” preluding the dish. Niros’ guest list has seen icons — Rajeev Gandhi, Farooq Abdullah, Naomi Campbell, among others.

2. Spice Court, Jaipur

The restaurant is famous for the quintessential laal maas along with a host of other Rajasthani curries — such as mutton sula (traditional Rajasthani kebabs) and keema baati (minced meat eaten with baked bread). The place plays host to many cultural events, providing a beautiful spectacle that people can enjoy whilst they dine.

As Navneet Painuly writes in a Google review, “I was exploring restaurants, and I was recommended by a local friend to check this place. So I went there with my family and we had a terrific experience. The place had a great vibe and I loved the antique walls and doors. Rajasthani cuisine is amazing and is a speciality here. It is a must-try place if you are around.”

3. 1135 AD, Jaipur

The story behind the name is fascinating — it was in 1135 AD that the Kachwaha clan founded the dynasty of the Rajputs. Not just the name, but even the ambience is an ode to the history of the Rajasthani culture. You are bound to feel like royalty when you step into the restaurant.

Set in the historic Amer Palace, stroll around to admire the open-air courtyard and the Sheesh Mahal (dubbed the ‘Palace of Mirrors’). The two icons on the menu are the laal maas and Amber gosht (a mutton speciality made by the cooks here).

The kitchens claim to recreate century-old local royal recipes that palace cooks closely guarded.

4. Jhankar Choti Haveli

Aside from the laal maas, there is a thrilling experience to look forward to at the Jhankar Haveli rooftop restaurant. Feast on delicacies as the majestic Jaswant Thada (a 19th-century cenotaph), Umaid Bhawan Palace, and the Clock Tower make up your view. You can also opt for the candle-lit dinner for an opportunity to dine under a canopy of stars; the Meherangarh Fort provides a perfect backdrop.

The malai kofta (paneer dumplings in a rich, creamy gravy), dal makhni (lentils in a gravy of butter and cream), and kaju curry (a cashew nut gravy) are said to be the hero dishes on the menu.

5. Indique

Bathe in the glow of the setting sun during your dinner at Indique. The hotel prides itself on its exotic ambience and a spectacular mix of Rajasthani food with vintage and exotic blends. The tables groan with an excess of North Indian delicacies and meaty feasts, and you will be treated to stories of how the restaurant resides in a haveli with a glorious history. The Pal Haveli dates back more than 200 years and prides itself on legacy culinary recipes — one of which is laal maas.

Edited by Pranita Bhat.