It’s understandable to believe that installing Composite decking will be accomplished in the same manner as installing wood if you’re approaching composite decking as a novel material. However, because composite decking has unique qualities, it expands and contracts more slowly than timber. To prevent an expensive repair and ugly decking, this difference must be taken into account when installation.

To prevent problems later on, installing composite decking requires some advance planning. If you don’t, you can experience problems like warping, standing water, or a collapsed deck, to mention a few. Making these errors compromises the strength and appearance of your deck. How then can you guarantee safe decking? You don’t want your warranty to be voided, do you? After all, failing to install in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions will accomplish just that. Here is a list of the twelve errors that Super Deck employees frequently make.

1.Choosing A Product Unsuitable For The Environment

Four unique products make up the Super Deck composite decking board Melbounre family. Each operates differently and is made to fulfil particular tasks. To facilitate installation, the Essential and Advanced products are partially hollow. These, however, shouldn’t be used in high-traffic areas, in commercial settings, or for load-bearing tasks. The Classic and Deluxe boards, however, are sturdy and ideal for such applications.

2.Inadequate Expansion Gaps Between Decking Butt-Ends

Timber composites are made of wood and plastic. Your composite deck boards will stretch and contract much more than regular timber decking due to the plastic component in the material. Due to this, we advise you to put deck boards end on with the proper gap between them (*1mm if temperature is over 26 C, 3mm if 4 C – 25 C, and 6mm if below 4 C). This will prevent the boards from crowding against each other and warping and twisting as a result of an adequate expansion gap.

3.Not Enabling Enough Ventilation Below the Deck

Composite decking absorbs a little quantity of moisture because it is a semi-organic substance. When wood is subjected to prolonged moisture exposure without adequate drying time, rotting results. To guarantee adequate airflow so that composite timber joists and composite deck boards are able to drain and thoroughly dry, a minimum space of 35mm should be left between your base, concrete, slab, or turf, and the bottom of deck boards.

4.Installing Upon A Pre-Existing, Subpar Timber Frame

There are subframes, as the title suggests. Joists can sustain damage from standing water and general erosion if the prior subframe wasn’t installed carefully. Comparing composite decking to wood reveals how much more support it needs. It can’t be done with five joists. Either add more joists to the current subframe, replace it with new timber joists, or construct a subframe made completely of composite materials. A subframe made of plastic lumber would be the greatest choice if your deck is located in a location with a high water table or that frequently floods because it won’t rot.

5.Putting In On Wider Joist Centers

Joist centres on wooden decks are typically 500mm or thereabouts. Reusing existing timber subframes may appear practical and logical. This is foolish, though, as composite decks need more support than a board of wood will. This is so because composite lumber has a smaller tolerance than wood does. A certain amount of flex will be present in wood planks due to the nature of wood. The composite deck boards are more flexible but not weaker due to the plastic component, therefore they need extra support. Joists for the composite deck subframe should be spaced 250 to 350 mm apart to accommodate for this.

6.Using Composite Decking Clips from a Different Supplier

When it comes to doing something you’ve done before, it’s natural to assume you know best. But believe us when we say that composite behaves differently from wood, therefore what works with wood won’t necessarily work with composite. Super Deck creates, produces, and distributes its own line of patented goods. Because they are made specifically to achieve that, our decking clips complement our decking the best. expanding and flexing as the decking takes on new dimensions.

7.Utilizing Techniques From Different Suppliers

It could be tempting to choose the fixing technique suggested by the supplier you most recently worked with if you have experience working with composite lumber. All composites, however, are not created equal. Each composite differs slightly in composition and design, necessitating a unique strategy. To build an installation guide that best suits our product, we have worked tirelessly with our design team, expert installers, and customers to understand the tolerances of Super Deck composite wood.

8.Fixing Without Clips Directly Into The Decking

Our decking clips are made to allow boards to swell and shrink as a result of temperature changes. In the long run, you will regret choosing a screw fixing over another since screw holes can split and break when the decking pushes up against the screw due to expansion and contraction of the decking. Our clip system will allow boards to expand and compress without impeding mobility. It is designed to function well with Super Deck products.

9.Not Taking Care Of Timber Joist Cut Ends

Any wood you use to construct a subframe for a deck should obviously be treated appropriately. Bottom, sides, ends, and top. However, this is a straightforward error that happens frequently here at Super Deck. The main reason ends are neglected is that painting joists is simpler when they are hanging from posts since you can paint top and bottom without waiting for them to dry. This invariably means that the exposed ends that are up against a wall or fence are harder to reach and might go unnoticed.

10.Double joists shouldn’t be installed where two joining boards intersect.

When installing your decking, a sturdy foundation is essential. When deck boards are butted together on a long deck, one that is longer than 3.6 metres, a double joist should be fitted. In order to prevent planks from splitting or slipping, it is essential that all joints have additional support. Deck boards should be installed with an adequate expansion gap* based on the ambient temperature at the time of installation.

11.Failure to Provide an Adequate Drainage Slope

A deck should be absolutely level, according to the expectations of any handyman with a spirit level. However, doing so will prevent your deck from draining correctly and standing water from being in place for extended periods of time. You should let a fall of 1% to ensure proper drainage (1:100). In actuality, this means that your deck should slope 10 mm for each metre of length away from your house. This will be a negligibly small enough difference that it won’t be noticed, but it will be enough to allow water to drain away quickly, eliminating rot and slick surfaces.

12.Using subpar, low-quality subframe material

Your deck’s foundation determines how durable it will be. Before you begin laying your boards, it’s crucial to establish a solid platform. Select the subframe’s material with care. A steel subframe would be a better choice when building a roof terrace or balcony because it is self-anchoring. Plastic lumber is preferable to timber if you’re building near water or where the water table is high because it won’t rot. A normal subframe should be made of seasoned wood that can sustain heavy use.

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